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[3D Print] Need Help!

so i think i tinkered to much and somehow messed up my setup

 

about a year ago i rpinted a bunch of deer

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:571949

and it went perfectly smoothly but no im on my second misprint and thought id finally ask around since i dont know anymore.

 

so this one failed because a leg fell down though i still have no idea why. the bed is at 50°C and taped up so no clue how i would further improve adhesion plus adhesion wasnt a problem a year ago.

 

and this one i really dont know what happened. it just stopped extruding but not printing? this is from last night so i didnt have a chance to manually inspect it yet but this has been a problem with some models in the past if they are too tall or have a lot of jumps or something im not sure what caused this.

 

any help on the matter is highly appreciated :)

 

Ender 3 / Octoprint

End 200°C / Bed 50°C / 85mm/s / 0.2mm / 3M Tape / filtered intake enclosure

"I know its stupidly overdone and unreasonably unneccesary but wouldnt it be awesome if ..."

 

CPU: Delidded i7 7700k (watercooled) Cooling: 3x 360 rads by Alphacool  MB: ASUS z270i  RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB  GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled)  DISPLAY: LG 34UC88-B 21:9 1440p SSD(OS): Samsung 960 EVO 250GB SSD(Games): Corsair MP510 960GB SSD(Applikations): Samsung 850 EVO 500GB  HDD(Scratch): WD Blue 500GB HDD(Downloads): WD Blue 320GB HDD(Long-term): WD Green 2TB (external)   PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Lian Li PC-O11 D Mouse: Logitech MX Master Keyboard: Logitech G513 Carbon

 

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Check the printer:

1. does the extruder motor works?

2. Does it still heats up?

 

For the adhesion make the brime larger or use a raft.

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1 minute ago, James Evens said:

Check the printer:

1. does the extruder motor works?

 i actually never considered a serious motor problem. i will check but then again i have printed taller stuff in the meantime without issues. i seems to me that its prints like these where its jumping from leg to leg where it has problems now. maybe i mesed up my cura settings or something. gonna start saving cura settings for each print

 

Quote

2. Does it still heats up?

you know i actually dont know since it has only failed so far during the night :D so in the morning the printer is already cold and i have no clue if could have been the cause

 

Quote

For the adhesion make the brime larger or use a raft.

i mean i could but it just seems illogical to me i printed these just on the glass bed itself last year totally fine and now it fails while taped up? also that wouldnt expalin the second failure

"I know its stupidly overdone and unreasonably unneccesary but wouldnt it be awesome if ..."

 

CPU: Delidded i7 7700k (watercooled) Cooling: 3x 360 rads by Alphacool  MB: ASUS z270i  RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB  GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled)  DISPLAY: LG 34UC88-B 21:9 1440p SSD(OS): Samsung 960 EVO 250GB SSD(Games): Corsair MP510 960GB SSD(Applikations): Samsung 850 EVO 500GB  HDD(Scratch): WD Blue 500GB HDD(Downloads): WD Blue 320GB HDD(Long-term): WD Green 2TB (external)   PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Lian Li PC-O11 D Mouse: Logitech MX Master Keyboard: Logitech G513 Carbon

 

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20 minutes ago, cluelessgenius said:

 i actually never considered a serious motor problem.

Often it is just a lose cable/connector.

btw. if you want to test the motor part don't forget to heat up the hotend (somewhere around 180 °C or higher, ideally just print temperature) to prevent cold extrusion prevention to kick in.

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On 11/26/2020 at 11:14 AM, James Evens said:

Often it is just a lose cable/connector.

btw. if you want to test the motor part don't forget to heat up the hotend (somewhere around 180 °C or higher, ideally just print temperature) to prevent cold extrusion prevention to kick in.

soo cables look fine. but i did try and change the extruder gear for a new one and tried to find a way to loosen the tension with which it grip the filament but since there was no way, i just shortened the coil a bit and now the same behaviour of the print getting rougher before stopping to feed completly starts happening right away. so im pretty sure it has to do with the extruder and the tension on the filament. i ordered a dual drive extruder kit but i would still really like some second opinions on this crap

20201201_220234.thumb.jpg.99fb75bf3167668e8f38fa853ceb507d.jpg

"I know its stupidly overdone and unreasonably unneccesary but wouldnt it be awesome if ..."

 

CPU: Delidded i7 7700k (watercooled) Cooling: 3x 360 rads by Alphacool  MB: ASUS z270i  RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB  GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled)  DISPLAY: LG 34UC88-B 21:9 1440p SSD(OS): Samsung 960 EVO 250GB SSD(Games): Corsair MP510 960GB SSD(Applikations): Samsung 850 EVO 500GB  HDD(Scratch): WD Blue 500GB HDD(Downloads): WD Blue 320GB HDD(Long-term): WD Green 2TB (external)   PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Lian Li PC-O11 D Mouse: Logitech MX Master Keyboard: Logitech G513 Carbon

 

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Your material looks wet - try a different spool.

 

Print a temperature tower with that filament to dial in your temps https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493504

 

Finally, ensure your heat break is actually being a heat break - if you're conducting heat up past the heat break in the hotend (often overtightened which causes heat creep) it will jam and the extruder will fail like this. 

 

If you have a teflon lined hotend, your teflon may be damaged and causing drag on the filament - replace it. 

 

 

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On 12/4/2020 at 5:45 PM, ColinLTT said:

Your material looks wet - try a different spool.

really? ahh thats really unfortunate if thats the case. the spool is almost brand new and that makes me worry about the rest of my filament. ill check.

Quote

Print a temperature tower with that filament to dial in your temps https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493504

never actually needed to print one before. but will try

Quote

Finally, ensure your heat break is actually being a heat break - if you're conducting heat up past the heat break in the hotend (often overtightened which causes heat creep) it will jam and the extruder will fail like this. 

how would i ceck for that and what part exactly would be overtightened?

Quote

If you have a teflon lined hotend, your teflon may be damaged and causing drag on the filament - replace it. 

im still working the standard ender 3 hotend. no idea if its telfon coated but i doubt it. which part exactly would need replacing? the entire hotend?

"I know its stupidly overdone and unreasonably unneccesary but wouldnt it be awesome if ..."

 

CPU: Delidded i7 7700k (watercooled) Cooling: 3x 360 rads by Alphacool  MB: ASUS z270i  RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB  GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled)  DISPLAY: LG 34UC88-B 21:9 1440p SSD(OS): Samsung 960 EVO 250GB SSD(Games): Corsair MP510 960GB SSD(Applikations): Samsung 850 EVO 500GB  HDD(Scratch): WD Blue 500GB HDD(Downloads): WD Blue 320GB HDD(Long-term): WD Green 2TB (external)   PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Lian Li PC-O11 D Mouse: Logitech MX Master Keyboard: Logitech G513 Carbon

 

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On 12/4/2020 at 5:45 PM, ColinLTT said:

Your material looks wet - try a different spool.

also im not sure but i mean it did print the first few times prefectly until it didnt . at least it started the legs, and they look prefectly fine. idk i ordered a dual gear extruder a new hotend and even a new extruder motor. will trial and error later tonight

"I know its stupidly overdone and unreasonably unneccesary but wouldnt it be awesome if ..."

 

CPU: Delidded i7 7700k (watercooled) Cooling: 3x 360 rads by Alphacool  MB: ASUS z270i  RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB  GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled)  DISPLAY: LG 34UC88-B 21:9 1440p SSD(OS): Samsung 960 EVO 250GB SSD(Games): Corsair MP510 960GB SSD(Applikations): Samsung 850 EVO 500GB  HDD(Scratch): WD Blue 500GB HDD(Downloads): WD Blue 320GB HDD(Long-term): WD Green 2TB (external)   PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Lian Li PC-O11 D Mouse: Logitech MX Master Keyboard: Logitech G513 Carbon

 

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@James Evens @ColinLTT alright so i changed the extruder and extruder motor and the entire hotend and now my print ran perfectly for 9 hours until for some unknown reasn my print lost plate adhesion near the end. not clue why though. btw same filament so that seams to be ok.

 

 

"I know its stupidly overdone and unreasonably unneccesary but wouldnt it be awesome if ..."

 

CPU: Delidded i7 7700k (watercooled) Cooling: 3x 360 rads by Alphacool  MB: ASUS z270i  RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB  GPU: MSI GTX1080 Ti Aero @ 2 GHz (watercooled)  DISPLAY: LG 34UC88-B 21:9 1440p SSD(OS): Samsung 960 EVO 250GB SSD(Games): Corsair MP510 960GB SSD(Applikations): Samsung 850 EVO 500GB  HDD(Scratch): WD Blue 500GB HDD(Downloads): WD Blue 320GB HDD(Long-term): WD Green 2TB (external)   PSU: Corsair SF750 Case: Lian Li PC-O11 D Mouse: Logitech MX Master Keyboard: Logitech G513 Carbon

 

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Im guessing it was a heat creep/teflon tube issue - glad it worked out! 

 

With really tall spindly parts like that I find it best to print on a raft so you get a full layer of adhesion. Printing a temperature tower can also improve your layer-to-layer adhesion/shear strength. A likely problem that happened there is that you started accelerating too much mass for the layers to support, and it tipped off - adding a slowdown part way up your print would prevent this, in Prusaslicer you would do this by adding a custom Gcode in the print at whatever layer you want, in this case I would do it once you reach the top of the legs. 

 

Enter the slice preview, move the slider on the right to the layer you want, right click the + icon on the side and select "Add Custom Gcode"
 

You want to input something like "M220 S50" - this will print at 50% speed

 

 

slowdown.PNG

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