Jump to content

Hey LTT-users!

A friend of mine has had an issue with her brand new computer since just shortly after she built it. It spontaneously restarts itself without a warning! This problem has had me pulling my hair out, trying to figure whats wrong.

We tried many different troubleshooting techniques:

Updated all relevant drivers to the latest version.
Reinstalling Windows. Both Windows 7 and Windows 8 has the precise same problem.
Trying one RAM-stick at a time in different slots.
Stresstesting both CPU and GPU using Prime95 and Furmark. Neither caused a reboot.
CPU and GPU temperatures seems just normal. Checked with CoreTemp and MSi Afterburner.
SSD health check using Samsung Magician shows the disk is completely healthy.

I asked my friend to describe her experience of the problems as a normal user, and she responded with:

Restarts every 10 minutes maximum.
Usually restarts the moment i make my PC "act" meaning the moment i click on something
and even the moment i log in through the locked screen. its always exactly when i perform an action as if its too much for it to handle.
Gradually getting worse.


The computer specifications are as following:

CPU: Intel Core i5 3550 Ivy Bridge
Motherboard: MSI Z77A-G41
RAM: Corsair XMS3 8GB
GPU: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 2GB, specificly this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16814102999
SSD: Samsung 830 256GB
HDD: Western Digital Black 1TB
PSU: FSP Group Aurum Gold 400W

 

 

Throw me any tips or ideas you have! Im completely dumbstruck at whats wrong!

Link to comment
https://linustechtips.com/topic/123743-mysterious-and-random-restarts/
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

snip

My Rig :  Case: Cooler Master HAF X ,Motherboard: Gigabyte Z87X-UD3H,PSU: Seasonic SS-750KM3,Processor: Core I7 4770k (overclocked 4.7ghz),Cooler: Corsair H100i, GPU: EVGA GTX 780 with acx cooler, RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 16gb DDR3 1600 (overclocked to 2000mhz), HDDS  Samsung 840 EVO 250 gb SSD , Western digital  2tb 7200 rpm 64mb cache, Old 1tb laptop drive I had , 320gb for os backup daily, 80gb external for weekly backups,Drives 2x Lg Blu Ray burner WH16MS40,MISC: Tp-Link dual band wireless card, Logitech g510s, Razer Deathadder 2013, Acer G236HLBbd 23" monitor, Old tv I had 23" for secondary monitor, old 32" samsung tv third monitor

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Okay seriously, take the cpu cooler off, reapply thermal paste and see if that changes anything. Reset bios, clear cmos.

 

I seriously doubt that reapplying the CPU cooler would help. There is no problems with temperatures as far as Ive seen.

Link to post
Share on other sites

snip 

My Rig :  Case: Cooler Master HAF X ,Motherboard: Gigabyte Z87X-UD3H,PSU: Seasonic SS-750KM3,Processor: Core I7 4770k (overclocked 4.7ghz),Cooler: Corsair H100i, GPU: EVGA GTX 780 with acx cooler, RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 16gb DDR3 1600 (overclocked to 2000mhz), HDDS  Samsung 840 EVO 250 gb SSD , Western digital  2tb 7200 rpm 64mb cache, Old 1tb laptop drive I had , 320gb for os backup daily, 80gb external for weekly backups,Drives 2x Lg Blu Ray burner WH16MS40,MISC: Tp-Link dual band wireless card, Logitech g510s, Razer Deathadder 2013, Acer G236HLBbd 23" monitor, Old tv I had 23" for secondary monitor, old 32" samsung tv third monitor

Link to post
Share on other sites

The first step to solving a problem is eliminating potential problems. You narrow down what it could be to find out what it is, you obviously don't know what the problem is so you don't know what it isn't. If the motherboard detects even for a second a bad connection to the cooler it will shut down the pc to avoid overheating the cpu, could be a bad connection, a bad cooler. It might not be what it is, but it is a step to finding out what the problem actually is.

 

I beg to differ. It does not shut down if there is a 'lack of connection', only if it gets too hot. Ive tried this myself. And its not a simple matter of just reapplying thermal paste, my friend then has to order it home alongside knowing the proper cleaning procedure, and I cant do it myself because there is an ocean between us.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I beg to differ. It does not shut down if there is a 'lack of connection', only if it gets too hot. Ive tried this myself. And its not a simple matter of just reapplying thermal paste, my friend then has to order it home alongside knowing the proper cleaning procedure, and I cant do it myself because there is an ocean between us.

Alright then, I'll be an ass. Since you obviously don't want any help. Instead would rather argue as to what does what. Then I'll let you figure it out yourself. 

 

In the future, don't be a dick to people trying to help you. Process of elimination is how you solve computer problems. But you obviously know it all already so why come here asking for help? Have a good day.

My Rig :  Case: Cooler Master HAF X ,Motherboard: Gigabyte Z87X-UD3H,PSU: Seasonic SS-750KM3,Processor: Core I7 4770k (overclocked 4.7ghz),Cooler: Corsair H100i, GPU: EVGA GTX 780 with acx cooler, RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 16gb DDR3 1600 (overclocked to 2000mhz), HDDS  Samsung 840 EVO 250 gb SSD , Western digital  2tb 7200 rpm 64mb cache, Old 1tb laptop drive I had , 320gb for os backup daily, 80gb external for weekly backups,Drives 2x Lg Blu Ray burner WH16MS40,MISC: Tp-Link dual band wireless card, Logitech g510s, Razer Deathadder 2013, Acer G236HLBbd 23" monitor, Old tv I had 23" for secondary monitor, old 32" samsung tv third monitor

Link to post
Share on other sites

Could be a faulty power supply.

 

Hm, yes. It could well be that. Though, I find it a bit odd that it didnt react to any of the stresstests.

 

Alright then, I'll be an ass. Since you obviously don't want any help. Instead would rather argue as to what does what. Then I'll let you figure it out yourself. 

 

In the future, don't be a dick to people trying to help you. Process of elimination is how you solve computer problems. But you obviously know it all already so why come here asking for help? Have a good day.

 

Oookay...

Link to post
Share on other sites

This screams of a bad power issue - I would try a known good power supply while also using a quality surge supressor or even UPS on the line - if at all possible, a line conditioner or online UPS for testing.  This kind of thing can also part-fry RAM over time, so I would suggest also memtest86 (non plus, the server version, different testing metric, catches some issues the + version misses)

 

also, make **ABSOLUTELY SURE** the house grounding is working properly and is connected to the PC properly.

I am a female pc hardware expert and enthusiast, over 170 IQ, been in the tech scene since the 80s. get over it.  This message brought to you by me being tired of people which have problems with any of those things.   ~Jaqie Fox

-=|Fighting computer ignorance since 1995|=-

Link to post
Share on other sites

These are tricky to diagnose, my only real method is keep swapping parts until the problem is resolved.

A 400 Watt PSU would be just enough for that system. Bad mains power could upset it.

Faulty RAM or SSD normally produce a blue screen typically so will a a bad VGA card, but if the Video dies altogether I may upset the Mainboard and cause a reboot.

Load testing computers does not always show every weakness.

I have an example where my system (highly) overclocked is stable during load tests but crashes when I use chrome or idle for a long time.

 

My methods to solve this are.

  • Reset BIOS I have seen many brand new mainboards with issues a simple BIOS reset fixed Sandy Bridge Intel boards were shocking for this.
  • Before messing with hardware boot a live CD like miniXP from Hiren Boot CD and see if it still happens there. (This will isolate the OS and drivers)
  • Take off the side panel and point a desk fan into the case, there are allot of components that don't have temp sensors.
  • Reinstall windows to a HDD, SSD are great but you can get the occasional bad one. If it still crashes go back to SSD.
  • Remove one RAM stick (hopefully it has 2) on next crash, swap them.
  • Remove the GPU and use the onboard if it crashes reinstall the Card.
  • Swap PSU you will be surprised how many "strange" issues I have resolved with a better PSU
  • Remove all the components from the case and connect and run PC naked, The Case might be causing a short.

If the problem still exist at this point then I must presume a damaged mainboard 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you check for viruses with an anti-virus (I recommend Kaspersky or bit defender), Malwarebytes and super anti-spyware?

 

Well, she did run AVG Free as far as I know. But I dont think its a virus, seeing as a reinstallation didnt fix it. Also, good lord. That avatar, LOL! I vaguely remember when he did that!

 

This screams of a bad power issue - I would try a known good power supply while also using a quality surge supressor or even UPS on the line - if at all possible, a line conditioner or online UPS for testing.  This kind of thing can also part-fry RAM over time, so I would suggest also memtest86 (non plus, the server version, different testing metric, catches some issues the + version misses)

 

also, make **ABSOLUTELY SURE** the house grounding is working properly and is connected to the PC properly.

 

Ah, of course! I didnt even consider the possibility of an unstable powerline, seeing as they are extremely stable in my own country. If all else fails, Ill have her order home a new PSU!

 

These are tricky to diagnose, my only real method is keep swapping parts until the problem is resolved.

A 400 Watt PSU would be just enough for that system. Bad mains power could upset it.

Faulty RAM or SSD normally produce a blue screen typically so will a a bad VGA card, but if the Video dies altogether I may upset the Mainboard and cause a reboot.

Load testing computers does not always show every weakness.

I have an example where my system (highly) overclocked is stable during load tests but crashes when I use chrome or idle for a long time.

 

My methods to solve this are.

  • Reset BIOS I have seen many brand new mainboards with issues a simple BIOS reset fixed Sandy Bridge Intel boards were shocking for this.
  • Before messing with hardware boot a live CD like miniXP from Hiren Boot CD and see if it still happens there. (This will isolate the OS and drivers)
  • Take off the side panel and point a desk fan into the case, there are allot of components that don't have temp sensors.
  • Reinstall windows to a HDD, SSD are great but you can get the occasional bad one. If it still crashes go back to SSD.
  • Remove one RAM stick (hopefully it has 2) on next crash, swap them.
  • Remove the GPU and use the onboard if it crashes reinstall the Card.
  • Swap PSU you will be surprised how many "strange" issues I have resolved with a better PSU
  • Remove all the components from the case and connect and run PC naked, The Case might be causing a short.

If the problem still exist at this point then I must presume a damaged mainboard 

 

Great reply! I'll let her know!

 

Sounds like she needs to invest in a UPS.

Keep the power to her PSU nice and clean: I think power surges are probably causing her problem.

 

See my reply to Jaqie. Thanks!

 

 

---

 

I'll post back here in a few days or so with the news. Lets hope for good ones!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, of course! I didnt even consider the possibility of an unstable powerline, seeing as they are extremely stable in my own country. If all else fails, Ill have her order home a new PSU!

 

---

 

I'll post back here in a few days or so with the news. Lets hope for good ones!

Sorry, just to check you've understood, there's a difference between a UPS and a PSU.

A new PSU for her computer will likely make no difference.

A UPS is an uninteruptable power supply, whuch plugs into the wall, then she plugs her computer into that.

A UPS ensures that the power going into the PC PSU is actually the correct level, i.e. 110/240V @ 50/60Hz.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, just to check you've understood, there's a difference between a UPS and a PSU.

A new PSU for her computer will likely make no difference.

A UPS is an uninteruptable power supply, whuch plugs into the wall, then she plugs her computer into that.

A UPS ensures that the power going into the PC PSU is actually the correct level, i.e. 110/240V @ 50/60Hz.

 

Yes, I am aware of this. However, it could just as well be the PSU that is causing problems. Sorry if I worded that a bit funny, Im not native in English.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, I am aware of this. However, it could just as well be the PSU that is causing problems. Sorry if I worded that a bit funny, Im not native in English.

You're english is fine :)

However I highly recommend the UPS as the first thing to try.

It will be a cheaper option than a new PSU, and it sounds like even with a new PSU, a UPS will still be required.

No need to replace a PSU if it may not be broken :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×