Moving to Germany from US, power mgmt?

[gregisnotmyname]

Budget (including currency): N/A

Country: Germany (moving from USA)

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: any/all FPS/RPG

Other details: Hi! I'm a US resident moving to Germany soon. I have an Omen 27in 1440p monitor, some 25w peripheral speakers, and my PC I need to power. I'm wondering what I need to do to convert. Are there different power adaptors for monitors? Do I need a different PSU?

Spec

Corsair RM 750x psu

Ryzen 7 2700x

Asus ROG Strix x370-f gaming Mobo

EVGA GTX 1080Ti

Dark Rock Pro 4 cooler

Corsair vengeance 8Gb x4

Samsung 860 Evo 500gb x2

 

Thank you!

 

[paddy-stone]

8 minutes ago, gregisnotmyname said:

Budget (including currency): N/A

Country: Germany (moving from USA)

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: any/all FPS/RPG

Other details: Hi! I'm a US resident moving to Germany soon. I have an Omen 27in 1440p monitor, some 25w peripheral speakers, and my PC I need to power. I'm wondering what I need to do to convert. Are there different power adaptors for monitors? Do I need a different PSU?

Spec

Corsair RM 750x psu

Ryzen 7 2700x

Asus ROG Strix x370-f gaming Mobo

EVGA GTX 1080Ti

Dark Rock Pro 4 cooler

Corsair vengeance 8Gb x4

Samsung 860 Evo 500gb x2

 

Thank you!

 

All you need is an IEC cable that fits german sockets, the sockets on the PSU and monitors are the same usually. The only difference being that sometimes monitros have power bricks, but again all that is required is the part that goes from the electrical socket to the power brick.

PSUs are all made the same IIRC, so the operating voltage can vary between IIRC 120-250V AC and still operate efficiently.

[SpaceGhostC2C]

Germany uses 220-240V, as opposed to US' 110-120V. It's likely that many of your devices are compatible with both, but check beforehand. If anything you are taking with you is 110V only, then you will need a 220 to 110  transformer for that one.

Power outlets are different, though: you'll need "schuko" plugs (or small tow-round-poles plugs), but you can get adapters easily once there. If you have many "US plug" appliances (computer/monitor/other), you may want to consider bringing a mutli-socket strip from the US, and just using one adapter to hook that to the wall.

[paddy-stone]

eg the power brick (if there is one) might use a cloverleaf IEC cable like this  https://www.amazon.co.uk/ABC-Products-Cloverleaf-Adapter-Toshiba/dp/B07J1N7QTY/

 

And the computer PSu cable would be like this

 

https://www.amazon.de/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/

[paddy-stone]

3 minutes ago, SpaceGhostC2C said:

Germany uses 220-240V, as opposed to US' 110-120V. It's likely that many of your devices are compatible with both, but check beforehand. If anything you are taking with you is 110V only, then you will need a 220 to 110  transformer for that one.

Power outlets are different, though: you'll need "schuko" plugs (or small tow-round-poles plugs), but you can get adapters easily once there. If you have many "US plug" appliances (computer/monitor/other), you may want to consider bringing a mutli-socket strip from the US, and just using one adapter to hook that to the wall.

I got this from looking up the manual for the 750W

 

 

See it uses 100-240V, so as I said in my first post it should only require the different "plug" type on an IEC cable. It should be the same for the other devices he mentioned, but as you said it's better to check beforehand.

[SpaceGhostC2C]

17 minutes ago, paddy-stone said:

I got this from looking up the manual for the 750W

 

Yes, computer PSUs these datsare 100-240V compatible, and in fact work more efficiently with 220V, so there's an upside for OP  

But I was referring to electrical devices more generally that he may want to bring with him.

 

I remember, when I was a child, half computer stuff, if not more, had these 220 to 110 transformers, as they were bringing those straight from the US. And ever now and then someone would kill one by either not using the transformer, or by using it not realizing that particular component was already 220V  Some printers and other devices would have manual switches in them to change between 110 and 220, but would not do it automatically like modern components, so you could still kill something by having the switch in the wrong position...