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You should look up some Build Guide videos on Youtube, they will give you some insight as to how a PC is put together since buying a new case requires you to basically rebuild the PC from scratch.

"Do what makes the experience better" - in regards to PCs and Life itself.

 

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GF Rig: Steam Deck 512GB OLED, Vizio 43" 4K TV

 

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Other Interesting Tech:

- 2021 Volvo S60 Recharge T8 PHEV Polestar Engineered - 415hp/495tq 2.0L 4cyl. turbocharged, supercharged and electrified.

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mobo looks like an acer special BTX board. That ain't fitting in any other case. From the looks of the motherboard, theres only 2 cables. 1 huge 24 pin and one small 4 pin. They go into their corresponding holes.

Main Rig: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 9 3950X Processor (Stock, -0.1V offset)  /// Motherboard: Asus Pro WS X570-Ace /// CPU Cooler: Deepcool GamerStorm Castle 360 RGB V2 /// GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® RTX 2080 SUPER™ 8G /// RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws V 128GB (4x32GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R6 USB-C Blackout TG /// PSU: Corsair RM850i /// Storage: 500GB Samsung 970 EVO Plus NVMe (boot) + 1TB WD Black SN750 NVMe (Working Drive) + 2x 1TB Samsung 850 EVO 2.5" SATA SSD RAID0 (Game Library) + 2TB Seagate BarraCuda (Backup) /// OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Peripherals (Main Rig): Mouse: Logitech MX Master 3 + Logitech G903 Lightspeed /// Keyboard: Keychron Q1 ANSI - JWK Lavender Linear Switches (TX Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Durock V2 Stabilisers, Polycarbonate Plate, Tape Mod, GMK Blue Samurai + Keychron K4 V2 Hotswap RGB Aluminum Frame - Gateron Milky Black (Deskeys Switch Film, Krytox 205g0), Foam Mod, Tape Mod, GMK Rainy Day PBT Clones /// Tablet: Wacom Intuos M BT /// Monitor: 4x LG 27UL500-W (4K IPS Freesync) /// DAC: Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 /// Speakers: Logitech Z625 /// Mic: Focusrite CM25 MkII /// Headphones: Audio-Technica ATH-M50x, ATH-LS70iS IEMs /// Racing Wheel: Logitech G920 Driving Force with Shifter /// Eye Tracker: Steelseries Sentry  /// External Drives: 500GB Samsung T5 SSD (Working Drive)

 

Home Server - NASty: CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 7 2700x Processor /// Motherboard: Asus PRIME X470-Pro  /// CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 /// GPU: Gigabyte GeForce® GT 1030 OC 2G /// RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 64GB (4x16GB) 3200Mhz CL16 /// Chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Window /// PSU: Corsair RM750x /// Storage: LSI SAS 9211-8i (IT Mode) + 10x 4TB Seagate Exos Enterprise Drive /// OS: UNRaid

 

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Laptop (Asus UX430UN): CPU: Intel® Core™ i7-8550U Processor  /// GPU: NVIDIA GeForce MX150 /// RAM: 16GB 2133Mhz /// Storage: 512GB SanDisk SD8SN8U512G1002 (boot) /// OS: Windows 10 Home

 

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That motherboard is DTX form factor, which is different than ATX...  edit  : or maybe it's BTX ... either way it's not atx.

 

Cases may or may not accept the motherboard, depends on the standoff positions and how the metal sheet is shaped.

Basically you need a case that's a bit DEEPer.. or doesn't have 5.25" and 3.5" bays, to allow the big width of the board.

The first 4 standoff positions should be the same as atx  (the two by io shield and pci-e and the ones by the ram slot.

 

THe motherboard seems to have the standard atx power connectors and audio headers, so the front panel connector is most likely similar.

Look at the connector that plugs in the front panel header and you may see it has labels on each pair of wires.

There may be text printed by the header.

If no such luck,  just take out a connector at a time from the header and see what doesn't work. Most likely you have power switch, reset switch, power on led and drive activity led ... if you take one connector out and you can't power the pc, that's your power switch cable. If you take out a cable and reset doesn't work, that's your reset switch... if the power on led doesn't light up, you disconnected the power on led.

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, mariushm said:

That motherboard is DTX form factor, which is different than ATX...  edit  : or maybe it's BTX ... either way it's not atx.

 

Cases may or may not accept the motherboard, depends on the standoff positions and how the metal sheet is shaped.

Basically you need a case that's a bit DEEPer.. or doesn't have 5.25" and 3.5" bays, to allow the big width of the board.

The first 4 standoff positions should be the same as atx  (the two by io shield and pci-e and the ones by the ram slot.

 

THe motherboard seems to have the standard atx power connectors and audio headers, so the front panel connector is most likely similar.

Look at the connector that plugs in the front panel header and you may see it has labels on each pair of wires.

There may be text printed by the header.

If no such luck,  just take out a connector at a time from the header and see what doesn't work. Most likely you have power switch, reset switch, power on led and drive activity led ... if you take one connector out and you can't power the pc, that's your power switch cable. If you take out a cable and reset doesn't work, that's your reset switch... if the power on led doesn't light up, you disconnected the power on led.

 

 

 

DTX is, as you said, hole-compatible with ATX. It's basically micro-ATX with its feet chopped off.

It's definitely not BTX. One of the main characteristics of BTX is the CPU socket's position away from the rear IO ports.

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