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1 minute ago, Magus said:

God, all of this makes me want to build a new machine for myself. If y'all are curious, this is my own build, so I'm actually building my brother and nephew a PC that tears even my own a new one. That said, upgrading from an 8700k is kind-of an awkward spot right now where it's right in-between where upgrading is sensible vs not sensible. I'm kind-of waiting for USB4, PCIe 5, and DDR5 to hit the market actually -- I've found it better to upgrade in lockstep with memory standards actually, since that only occurs every few years.

Parts list is private, oof. But yeah the 8700K still slaps hard enough that it doesn't reeeeeally warrant an upgrade for most workloads. 

 

2 minutes ago, Magus said:

I actually just upgraded the Intel build to a Maximus XI Hero for that reason, and that may be what I go with for a build. Sure, it's overkill, but I wanna do something good for them. They deserve it, they've been dealing with hell for the last year or so and they need life to throw them a bone.

Hell yeah! Always fun to build stuff for other people too, I've given away a couple rigs. My first watercooling loop I actually built for a friend. I wanted to mess with custom loops but didn't need the PC itself, gave it to him for Christmas 2017, has been kicking since without issue and only one maintenance session (a dusting and loop flush/refill). A 6700K + 290X was a pretty good upgrade from a 2011 MacBook Pro that pushed CS:GO at 20fps, methinks. ?

Though be aware you'll ruin fps titles on console for them, lmao. I can't even go back to 60hz lol, 75Hz is the lowest to still feel smooth in shooters. I still enjoy my 30fps titles on the Switch though, but none of those are shooters. 

Gaming PC NAS Laptop Workstation

CPU: i5 12600KF 6P+4E Ryzen 7 3700X M4 SoC 4P+6E Xeon X5690 6c12t

Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S Wraith Stealth w/NF-A9 Passive Apple CPU Cooler

Motherboard: ASRock Z690 ITX/ax ASUS Pro B550M-C/CSM Apple J713AP Mac-F221BEC8 (Mac Pro 5,1)

RAM: 2x16GB 3600Mhz DDR4 2x16GB 2400MHz DDR4 24GB Micron LPDDR5 4x8GB 1333MHz ECC DDR3

GPU: Sapphire Pulse Radeon 9060 XT 16GB Radeon WX2100 M4 SoC 10C Radeon RX 5700

Storage: 1TB MP34 + 2TB P41 500GB SSD + 2x4TB IronWolf Pro in ZFS Mirror Apple AP0512Z 1TB Crucial MX500

ODD: LG WH14NS40 None LG GP65NB60 USB DVD Writer Don't know

PSU: EVGA 850W GM Silverstone SST-TX300 53.8Wh LiPo Battery Delta DPS-980BB

Case: Silverstone Sugo 14 Dell Inspiron 530S Mac16,12 chassis (13" MBA) 2009-2012 Mac Pro "Cheese Grater"

OS: Gentoo Linux TrueNAS Scale macOS 26 Tahoe Fedora Linux

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 14" M5P MacBook Pro (work) - iPhone 17 Pro - Apple Watch S11

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, iFlash Solo w/128GB SD Card, Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

 

Vehicles: 2002 Ford F150, 2003 Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200, 2022 Kawasaki KLR650, 1994 DR350SE

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I am running G-sync on with an AOC AG271qx, yeah it's TN but that doesn't really bother me with 1440, 144hz at 1ms on a 350 euro monitor, they are about 300 USD (euro prices include sales tax here and we just basically get the USD price converted directly into euro) with the 2080 super at around 700 you can stay under 2k quite comfortably with the cpu and motherboard i recommended. It's definatly an option to consider in my book. 

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2 minutes ago, Magus said:

I did update the display from this to this though. Only $9 more and the brightness is considerably better is my reasoning. The only thing that worries me is that at 27" the PPI at 1080p starts getting pretty low, it's in the gray-area between where 1080p vs 1440p is demanded (I think 90 PPI is what one should try to stay at or above. 24" for 1080p has been fine for me, and that's 90PPI. It's fine, but get below that and I start to notice pixels more).

I think for games it's fine, just hurts for text (I used to work at 1080p 27" for spreadsheets, now use 25" or 29" 1080p ultrawides, they have the vertical height of a 21" or 24" 1080p monitor). The monitor I'm using now and that I also game on is a 1080p ultrawide. Noice LG unit (sadly not sold any more): IPS panel, 99% sRGB or something, basically the colors are really damn good, OCs to 75Hz without issue. 2560x1080 at 25" is a bit small, but large enough for me and the extra crispiness due to a higher ppi does help a lot. It's VESA mountable too, I have it one one of those vs the cheap stock stand. 

 

5 minutes ago, Magus said:

Oh, right. Yeah I keep making that mistake because I think PCPP added that feature more recently. Here.

Noice! Honestly wish I'd kept my 8700K or 8600K, but eh. Started with an 8700K, traded that to a guy for just an 8600K. He was getting into streaming, and I had my 2700X rig at the time so I had multicore stuff covered ez. 8600K was great fun, ended up selling that rig because I didn't use it as much as I thought I would and I needed the monies, lol. It was either that or selling my 1080s that let me get my Radeon VII, I forget which lol. Sadly I must give up hardware in order to obtain fresh stuff ?.

Gaming PC NAS Laptop Workstation

CPU: i5 12600KF 6P+4E Ryzen 7 3700X M4 SoC 4P+6E Xeon X5690 6c12t

Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S Wraith Stealth w/NF-A9 Passive Apple CPU Cooler

Motherboard: ASRock Z690 ITX/ax ASUS Pro B550M-C/CSM Apple J713AP Mac-F221BEC8 (Mac Pro 5,1)

RAM: 2x16GB 3600Mhz DDR4 2x16GB 2400MHz DDR4 24GB Micron LPDDR5 4x8GB 1333MHz ECC DDR3

GPU: Sapphire Pulse Radeon 9060 XT 16GB Radeon WX2100 M4 SoC 10C Radeon RX 5700

Storage: 1TB MP34 + 2TB P41 500GB SSD + 2x4TB IronWolf Pro in ZFS Mirror Apple AP0512Z 1TB Crucial MX500

ODD: LG WH14NS40 None LG GP65NB60 USB DVD Writer Don't know

PSU: EVGA 850W GM Silverstone SST-TX300 53.8Wh LiPo Battery Delta DPS-980BB

Case: Silverstone Sugo 14 Dell Inspiron 530S Mac16,12 chassis (13" MBA) 2009-2012 Mac Pro "Cheese Grater"

OS: Gentoo Linux TrueNAS Scale macOS 26 Tahoe Fedora Linux

 

Display: LG 27UK650-W (4K 60Hz IPS panel)

Mouse: EVGA X17

Keyboard: Corsair K55 RGB

 

Mobile/Work Devices: 14" M5P MacBook Pro (work) - iPhone 17 Pro - Apple Watch S11

 

Other Misc Devices: iPod Video (Gen 5.5E, iFlash Solo w/128GB SD Card, Rockbox), Nintendo Switch

 

Vehicles: 2002 Ford F150, 2003 Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200, 2022 Kawasaki KLR650, 1994 DR350SE

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22 minutes ago, Magus said:

you really show no brand loyalty at all, do you?

asus x570 tuf plus is one of the best budget x570 motherboards.

for b450, msi is king. no point in brand loyalties, just go with what's better quality.

18 minutes ago, Magus said:

There is a big warning on that build though

The MSI b450 MAX boards (tomahawk max, gaming plus max and a pro max) all come with bios ready for the 3000 series so don't worry about the warning.

24 minutes ago, Magus said:

What reason for a 3600 over a 3600X? I thought

the x versions in amd usually are clocked a bith higher (factory overclock) and have a better stock cooler. if you're replacing the cooler anyway, they basically become the same cpu.

 

26 minutes ago, Magus said:

ASUS in mobos and GPUs

it's more about the tiers than brands. each brand have their low, medium and high quality tier. sometimes, you'll find a high quality gpu from evga at the same price like a medium or low from asus. would you still choose asus?

 

agree with your points on speakers and monitor. go ips if that's what you prefer. 

Also, don't forget to quote or mention people if you want us to receive a notification and see your posts.

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People, please stop recommending that tomahawk max, it is not in fact great to pair a step down chipset from a generation older for a new cpu especially when you can get x570 board with better VRMs for 150 now, a 35 dollars saving that still leaves you with a 115 dollar board is not a value proposition anymore. When the good x570 boards were 200 sure, but they aren't anymore.

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11 minutes ago, St. Nick said:

People, please stop recommending that tomahawk max, it is not in fact great to pair a step down chipset from a generation older for a new cpu especially when you can get x570 board with better VRMs for 150 now, a 35 dollars saving that still leaves you with a 115 dollar board is not a value proposition anymore. When the good x570 boards were 200 sure, but they aren't anymore.

For 3700 tomahawk is ok, for 3900 i'd go for a x570 board

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16 minutes ago, St. Nick said:

People, please stop recommending that tomahawk max, it is not in fact great to pair a step down chipset from a generation older for a new cpu especially when you can get x570 board with better VRMs for 150 now, a 35 dollars saving that still leaves you with a 115 dollar board is not a value proposition anymore. When the good x570 boards were 200 sure, but they aren't anymore.

The Tomahawk MAX is a solid board so why would people stop suggesting it ? A saving is still a saving. There is also zero issue pairing a B450 chipset with a new cpu. 

 

The B450-A PRO MAX is $99.99 and has the same VRM. That is $50 cheaper than an entry level X570. That $50 saving can pay for 16GB Ram or a 2TB HDD etc. 

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14 hours ago, Magus said:

It's not going to be 100% utilized the vast majority of the time, and PCPP bases it's stats on maximum estimated usage, and...

 

Oh wait hold on, I just checked -- consider it a typo on the Intel machine. I didn't realize Intel guzzles that much more wattage than AMD for the same number of cores. I think I also paired them with a 1660 Ti originally and now I've gone 2070... yeah I'll go 550 Watts, don't worry.

 

650 watts would be overkill. You actually want to avoid the low-end of the chart even more than the high end. Upgradeability is a conisderation but I really doubt they're gonna mess with it that much.

 

eff-comparison.png

 

If you consider that this machine is going to be at idle or 50% load most of the time, I think going 650 watts might put it at the low-end of the curve. PSUs appear to run best in that 40-80% PSU utilization area. But I'll definitely upgrade to 550 watts, give me a second to update the list.

 

 

I don't think that's necessary here, and if they ever really do need more memory, it'd be trivial to pop-in more DIMMs.

Often when decent sales are out you end up seeing 650W units for cheaper than 550W anyway.

So it's less a question of cost/benefit and more just... Cost.

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