Computer shuts down when playing some games.

[scyraxxx]

 

Hello, Thank you in advance for any help I could get.

I’m new to this whole building a pc but I have a friend that has a gaming computer and fell in love with it. So I started doing a lot of research and decided to build my own. First time I turned it on it worked with no issues, I installed Windows 10 Pro 64 bit and installed all drivers needed etc.

So it was time to install games and so I did…. I installed Steam and Origin.

So far I have:

Origin:

Apex

Battlefield V

Fifa 20

Anthem

Steam:

DCS World

Resident Evil 2

Project Cars 2

Counter Strike

 

My problem is that so far out of those games the following have the same issue

Battlefield V, Counter Strike, Apex and DCS World.

The issue is that

2-3 minutes into the game the computer shuts down as if the power went out and 3 seconds later it restarts.

I have tried doing as much research as I could before posting on this forum with no luck…

I have done stress tests such as Aida64 extreme ran it for 8 hours with no errors, Memtest 64 (no errors)

And Furmark on the gpu for about an hour with no errors.

I had originally overclocked my cpu from stock 4.2 to 4.8 but went back to the default settings.

I also did 3DMark benchmark test and got a score of 10937 running Time Spy:

Graphics Test 1: 91.91 FPS

Graphics Test 2: 84.61 FPS

Cpu Test: 15.47 FPS

 

I’m running out of ideas. The only think I can think of is that my power supply isn’t powerful enough but I’ve done CPU wattage calculator and seems I’m about 100w under….

Here are my specs:

▪Asus prime z270-a  Motherboard

▪CORSAIR VENGEANCE RGB PRO 8 GB (X4 32GB) DDR4 3200MHz

▪Gigabyte AORUS GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Xtreme WATERFORCE WB 11G Graphics Card, Pre-Installed Waterblock, 11GB 352-bit GDDR6
▪Thermaltake TT Gaming PCI-E x16 3.0 Black Extender Riser Cable
▪Thermaltake Pacific C360 Ddc Res/Pump 5V Motherboard Sync Copper Radiator PETG Hard Tube Water Cooling Kit (3 rgb radiador fans)
▪i7 7700k 4.2 unlocked (rgb water cooling block)
▪Thermaltake View 37 Motherboard Sync ARGB E-ATX Mid Tower Gaming Computer Case built-in two 200mm 5V ARGB LED front fans and one 120mm 5V ARGB LED rear fan
▪Thermaltake Toughpower Grand RGB 750W 80+ Gold Smart Zero 256-Color RGB Fan Fully Modular Power Supply

▪DEEP COOL RGB Convertor, 5V ADD-RGB to 12V RGB Transfer Hub, Motherboard with 12V 4-pin Header can Control 5V ADD-RGB (my motherboard only has connection for 12v non-addressable rgb. This converts from 12v to 5v needed for my fans)
▪Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD
 

Thank you so much for any help.

[Windows7ge]

I believe when the system shutdown and stays shutdown that's a overheat issue.

When it shuts down and restarts that's usually a PSU issue.

 

I run a 1200W PSU and the system was shutting down/restarting while under a mere 550W load. As it turns out my 5V rail was sitting at 4.5V while idle in the BIOS which means it was even lower while the system was stressed.

 

I would check your rail voltages in the BIOS. Even if they look good they could be drooping at unexpected times forcing the system to shutdown/restart.

 

Do you have a spare PSU you could throw in there?

[Streetguru]

46 minutes ago, scyraxxx said:

 

How long have you had the PC? When did the issues start?

Either something is overheating or your PSU is having some strange issue, you can test the PSU part by lowering your GPU power target and disabling any CPU overclock. Also set your RAM speeds to default.


Check your windows event log
 

 

[scyraxxx]

Thank you for your reply.

I completed the built about a week ago! So everything is brand new. Everything is set to default! I will check the Windows event log but doubt it'll tell me anything since the computer just shuts itself down without any warning.

[scyraxxx]

36 minutes ago, Windows7ge said:

I believe when the system shutdown and stays shutdown that's a overheat issue.

When it shuts down and restarts that's usually a PSU issue.

 

I run a 1200W PSU and the system was shutting down/restarting while under a mere 550W load. As it turns out my 5V rail was sitting at 4.5V while idle in the BIOS which means it was even lower while the system was stressed.

 

I would check your rail voltages in the BIOS. Even if they look good they could be drooping at unexpected times forcing the system to shutdown/restart.

 

Do you have a spare PSU you could throw in there?

A friend of mine has a 750w I'm definitely going to try it out! Thank you very much for your reply.

[Streetguru]

6 minutes ago, scyraxxx said:

I completed the built about a week ago!

M8. How did you end up with a 7700K at this point in time? Was there just a really cheap combo somewhere?

And what kind of monitor do you have? Please don't tell me it's only a 1080p one.
 

[scyraxxx]

I don't think heating is an issue, please see video.

[scyraxxx]

13 minutes ago, Streetguru said:

M8. How did you end up with a 7700K at this point in time? Was there just a really cheap combo somewhere?

And what kind of monitor do you have? Please don't tell me it's only a 1080p one.
 

I bought it on Amazon, unfortunately my motherboard supports up to 7th gen, newbie mistake I made  and I paid $344 for it.

As for the monitor... I have this one:

 

MSI Non-Glare Ultrawide 21: 9 Screen 8ms 3440 X 1440 100Hz Freesync 3K Resolution 34" Curved Gaming Monitor (Optix MAG341CQ)

 

I wanted something better but I've spent way over my budget already.

[scyraxxx]

5 hours ago, Windows7ge said:

I believe when the system shutdown and stays shutdown that's a overheat issue.

When it shuts down and restarts that's usually a PSU issue.

 

I run a 1200W PSU and the system was shutting down/restarting while under a mere 550W load. As it turns out my 5V rail was sitting at 4.5V while idle in the BIOS which means it was even lower while the system was stressed.

 

I would check your rail voltages in the BIOS. Even if they look good they could be drooping at unexpected times forcing the system to shutdown/restart.

 

Do you have a spare PSU you could throw in there?

Voltage is at 4.96 idle in bios.

[Windows7ge]

2 minutes ago, scyraxxx said:

Voltage is at 4.96 idle in bios.

That's fine, you also have a 12V & 3.3V rail. What do those report?

[Streetguru]

4 hours ago, scyraxxx said:

I've spent way over my budget already.

If you only bought it a week ago, and you're having issues anyways, you can fix the build by returning some stuff and getting an R5 3600 or R7 3700X with an X570 ASUS Prime board. Or a 9900K, but that's an extra $200 for maybe 10% more fps potential than a 3700X...

And if you can settle for only "high" graphics at that resolution, which probably doesn't look any different than ultra. You can save roughly $800 on the graphics card, and get an RX 5700 for $350-400, I have one running games at 4k 60hz just fine.

It's right behind a 2070/super. I'd really only get a 2080ti for a 4k 120hz display IMO.

[scyraxxx]

24 minutes ago, Windows7ge said:

That's fine, you also have a 12V & 3.3V rail. What do those report?

12v: 12.000v

5v: 4.960v

3.3v: 3.344v

[scyraxxx]

18 minutes ago, Streetguru said:

If you only bought it a week ago, and you're having issues anyways, you can fix the build by returning some stuff and getting an R5 3600 or R7 3700X with an X570 ASUS Prime board. Or a 9900K, but that's an extra $200 for maybe 10% more fps potential than a 3700X...

And if you can settle for only "high" graphics at that resolution, which probably doesn't look any different than ultra. You can save roughly $800 on the graphics card, and get an RX 5700 for $350-400, I have one running games at 4k 60hz just fine.

It's right behind a 2070/super. I'd really only get a 2080ti for a 4k 120hz display IMO.

No, I said I finished building it a week ago but I've been buying parts here and there to complete it for over 3 months now! 

[Streetguru]

22 minutes ago, scyraxxx said:

No, I said I finished building it a week ago but I've been buying parts here and there to complete it for over 3 months now! 

Damn lol, that's like the #1 thing not to do lol Cases and SSDs are fine like that, but generally you'd want to buy it all at once just incase it has issues.

Some stuff may still be in the return period though if you can narrow down the issue with some parts swaps.

Seemingly random intermittent crashing may be some kind of memory issue, maybe the RAM or VRAM on the GPU. You can try leaving in only one stick of RAM or swapping around the slots. You can also try downclocking the memory on your  GPU, or just lowing it's power target to 50%. Otherwise I'd maybe blame the power supply, or even the outlet you have it plugged into.

You can also check your windows event log.
 

 

[scyraxxx]

5 hours ago, Streetguru said:

How long have you had the PC? When did the issues start?

Either something is overheating or your PSU is having some strange issue, you can test the PSU part by lowering your GPU power target and disabling any CPU overclock. Also set your RAM speeds to default.


Check your windows event log
 

 

Dude you're a genius! So I dropped everything to 0 and that did it!!!!!!! I've tried all the games that were crashing and all seem to work. See attached picture.

I guess I could say this is a temporary fix?

Does this mean that my power supply is not powerful enough?

 

Thank you so much!!!!!!!!!!!

[Streetguru]

16 minutes ago, scyraxxx said:

 

It's either the power supply, or for some reason you have really low quality silicon on your GPU that can't handle default clock speeds.

There's a 750W coolermaster gold unit on sale right now, can be returned if the issue ends up being your GPU's silicon quality.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VmsmP6/cooler-master-mwe-gold-750-w-80-gold-certified-atx-power-supply-mpy7501acaagus


Otherwise a 750W RMx PSU is $125.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/79tQzy/corsair-rmx-2018-750w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020179-na

[Windows7ge]

1 hour ago, scyraxxx said:

12v: 12.000v

5v: 4.960v

3.3v: 3.344v

That's good but if it's an intermittent issue it could still be the PSU.

 

58 minutes ago, scyraxxx said:

Dude you're a genius! So I dropped everything to 0 and that did it!!!!!!! I've tried all the games that were crashing and all seem to work. See attached picture.

I guess I could say this is a temporary fix?

Does this mean that my power supply is not powerful enough?

750W is more than enough. As I said voltages can droop and cause these errors. It's were I'd start replacing hardware to test.

[scyraxxx]

1 hour ago, Streetguru said:

It's either the power supply, or for some reason you have really low quality silicon on your GPU that can't handle default clock speeds.

There's a 750W coolermaster gold unit on sale right now, can be returned if the issue ends up being your GPU's silicon quality.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VmsmP6/cooler-master-mwe-gold-750-w-80-gold-certified-atx-power-supply-mpy7501acaagus


Otherwise a 750W RMx PSU is $125.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/79tQzy/corsair-rmx-2018-750w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020179-na

So I put everything to default settings just dropped the  power target to 60 and it's working... any thoughts?

 

@Windows7ge

Seems like it is my power supply

[Streetguru]

1 minute ago, scyraxxx said:

So I put everything to default settings just dropped the  power target to 60 and it's working... any thoughts?

I'd probably still just replace the PSU. Or replace both if you can still return the 2080ti and save $800...lol

Try just like 90%, or try only underclocking the GPU core leaving the voltage alone to stress the power supply.

Not sure you have full control over that with nvidia's boost stuff.

[scyraxxx]

Thank you so much dude, I'll keep playing with the settings but I'm definitely replacing the power supply. Still don't know if it's faulty or should get a higher wattage. We'll see! either way I'm very happy that is not something major.

 

Like I said before it's my first pc build I'm not a pro at all, all I did was google a lot and watched a lot of YouTube videos and I was very disappointed with this whole issue I've been having.

Again thank you very much for everyone's help!

 

[Streetguru]

21 minutes ago, scyraxxx said:

 

Your PC isn't going to use more than 400W under load, so 750W is fine, more than likely just some QC issue if it winds up being the power supply.