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Howdy fellas. I've got an old Asus P7H55 motherboard with damaged traces from improperly installing a cooler (just a board I mess around with. didn't have the mounting bracket and said fuck it). The board still works, however, memory channel B doesn't function properly. It will detect ram in those slots but it will not be usable. I've attached pictures of all the spots with issues, and idea's on how to fix that? thanks!

 

Images:

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20190416_173259.jpg20190416_173141.jpg20190416_173233.jpg20190416_173115.jpg

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Ryzen 7 3700x@4.4ghz (All core) | MSI X470 Gaming Pro Carbon | Crucial Ballistix 2x16gb (OC 3600mhz)

MSI GTX 1080 8gb | SoundBlaster ZXR | Corsair HX850

Samsung 960 256gb | Samsung 860 1gb | Samsung 850 500gb

HGST 4tb, HGST 2tb | Seagate 2tb | Seagate 2tb

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Ryzen 7 1700@3.8ghz (All core) | Aorus AX370 Gaming K5 | Vengeance LED 3200mhz 2x8gb

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Soldering wires to connect the damaged bits... Dont see you actually doing it lol, motherboards dont cost enough to be worth fixing like that

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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While it might be possible to remove some of the solder mask and solder a bridge wire across the damaged sections, I wouldn't bother.  One, you are likely to cause even more damage in the process.  Especially if it's your first time attempting the repair with some very delicate traces.  Two, did you notice those traces are all squiggly?  They do that so that all of the high bandwidth traces are exactly the same length even though they are going to different pins on the RAM.  They have to be the exact length because at those frequencies you can get a lot of timing errors if they aren't the same.  A repair will likely change the length of the repaired traces and even if it does detect the memory and make it usable again, you're likely to start getting weird issues after running your system for awhile.

 

Either keep using it as is, or buy a new (used?) board.  That board is less than $50 on eBay.

Malo Periculosam Libertatem Quam Quietum Servitium

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49 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

Soldering wires to connect the damaged bits... Dont see you actually doing it lol, motherboards dont cost enough to be worth fixing like that

 

19 minutes ago, Corrupt_Liberty said:

While it might be possible to remove some of the solder mask and solder a bridge wire across the damaged sections, I wouldn't bother.  One, you are likely to cause even more damage in the process.  Especially if it's your first time attempting the repair with some very delicate traces.  Two, did you notice those traces are all squiggly?  They do that so that all of the high bandwidth traces are exactly the same length even though they are going to different pins on the RAM.  They have to be the exact length because at those frequencies you can get a lot of timing errors if they aren't the same.  A repair will likely change the length of the repaired traces and even if it does detect the memory and make it usable again, you're likely to start getting weird issues after running your system for awhile.

 

Either keep using it as is, or buy a new (used?) board.  That board is less than $50 on eBay.

Thank you for the replies. This board is used in a "project computer" of sorts. It serves no practical use but I've done some good overclocking with it and have modified the case to provide better cooling. A DIY repair on this board could provide a good learning experience for me so I'd like to do it myself.

 

What are your thoughts on a conductive pen as shown in this old LTT video? Seems it would be tough to be accurate enough with it, but I've considered giving it a shot.

QUOTE ME IF YOU WANT A REPLY!

 

PC #1

Ryzen 7 3700x@4.4ghz (All core) | MSI X470 Gaming Pro Carbon | Crucial Ballistix 2x16gb (OC 3600mhz)

MSI GTX 1080 8gb | SoundBlaster ZXR | Corsair HX850

Samsung 960 256gb | Samsung 860 1gb | Samsung 850 500gb

HGST 4tb, HGST 2tb | Seagate 2tb | Seagate 2tb

Custom CPU/GPU water loop

 

PC #2

Ryzen 7 1700@3.8ghz (All core) | Aorus AX370 Gaming K5 | Vengeance LED 3200mhz 2x8gb

Sapphire R9 290x 4gb | Asus Xonar DS | Corsair RM650

Samsung 850 128gb | Intel 240gb | Seagate 2tb

Corsair H80iGT AIO

 

Laptop

Core i7 6700HQ | Samsung 2400mhz 2x8gb DDR4

GTX 1060M 3gb | FiiO E10k DAC

Samsung 950 256gb | Sandisk Ultra 2tb SSD

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5 minutes ago, BigDamn said:

 

Thank you for the replies. This board is used in a "project computer" of sorts. It serves no practical use but I've done some good overclocking with it and have modified the case to provide better cooling. A DIY repair on this board could provide a good learning experience for me so I'd like to do it myself.

 

What are your thoughts on a conductive pen as shown in this old LTT video? Seems it would be tough to be accurate enough with it, but I've considered giving it a shot.

Not good enough for repairing something as dedicated as a motherboard, let alone one related to memory. It can probably fix a raspberry pi, but not a desktop.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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