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UPS Suggestions ?

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3 minutes ago, JohnnyCyp said:

honestly all you should connect to it is the desktop and monitor and router. so you can save whatever you are doing before it can be lost. the playstation, well, simply put its not as prone to carrying important data that can be lost by a power cut. speakers well, i dont think its worth keeping them on a UPS. they aren't crucial. As if you are in the middle of a heavy workload, you get maybe 3-10 minutes (depending on the size of the behemoth you wanna buy) of full load run time, thats it. you want to keep power draw to a minimum. 

 

I would recommend this one or a similar one: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842301561 

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Hi !

 

I'm not an expert at UPS, but regarding what you wrote there, you should have a look at Outervision PSU Calculator in order to estimate your system wattage.

https://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator

Then, depending on your PSU 80+ grade, add a ratio to this wattage in order to get a system estimated required wattage.

 

In addition, is your other devices wattage manufacturer advertised or did you get a chance to do some measurements ? The average wattage should be lower depending on your level of use.

My point is that even if your PC has a 750W PSU, it may draw only 50-60% of that. Same for the other devices. You could save a lot of money when choosing the appropriate UPS :)

 

Just another engineer posting useful hardware videos directly to the interconnected network (AKA the internet)

Tech enthusiast. Check my channel out here https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6FU1nfeGBBnw_bvHgWCqTQ

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3 minutes ago, JohnnyCyp said:

honestly all you should connect to it is the desktop and monitor and router. so you can save whatever you are doing before it can be lost. the playstation, well, simply put its not as prone to carrying important data that can be lost by a power cut. speakers well, i dont think its worth keeping them on a UPS. they aren't crucial. As if you are in the middle of a heavy workload, you get maybe 3-10 minutes (depending on the size of the behemoth you wanna buy) of full load run time, thats it. you want to keep power draw to a minimum. 

 

I would recommend this one or a similar one: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842301561 

Rig 1: i7-9700k OC'd to 5.0ghz all core | EVGA XC RTX 2080Ti | ADATA DDR4 2400mhz 4x8gb | ASUS PRIME Z370-P | Asetek 550LC 120mm | ADATA 480GB SSD & Toshiba P300 3TB | Cooler Master Masterbox MB500 | Win 10 Home | Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum, G502 Proteus Spectrum, G933 Artemis Spectrum Snow Wireless Limited Edition, Corsair MM300 Mouse Pad | 2 MSI Optix Curved 27" FHD Monitors 

 

(before i sold the WD drive and MSI gpu - https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/11946219 171 gaming. felt good.)

 

Rig 2: i7-7700k Stock clocks | MSI Armor GTX 1070 | ADATA DDR4 2400mhz 2x8GB | MSI Z270 A-Pro | WD Green 240GB SSD & 2TB Seagate HDD | Thermaltake Core G21 Tempered Glass Edition | Win 10 Home | 2 HP Omen FHD 144hz 24.5" Monitors 

 

Rig 3: i7-6700 | GT 730 & GT 645 OEM | Some random DDR4 2133mhz 2x8gb sticks | OEM Dell Mobo | WD Black 2TB HDD & Toshiba 1TB HDD | Win 10 Home | 3 27" Dell FHD Monitors 

 

Rig 4: i7-4770 | EVGA SSC 1050ti | Some random DDR3 ram 2x2gb and 2x4gb sticks | OEM Dell Mobo | Stock Cooler | 1TB WD Black HDD | Win 7 Home 

 

RIP 

 

Rig 5 (dead and dismantled and sold) : i7-7820X OC'd to 4.8ghz all core | MSI DUKE 1080ti | ADATA DDR4 2400mhz 4x8gb | Gigabyte X299 UD4 PRO | Asetek 240mm AIO | WD Green 240gb SSD | Other various components that I can't remember

 

Rig 6 (same fate as rig 5) i7-8700k stock clocks | MSI DUKE 1080ti | ADATA DDR4 2400mhz 2x8gb | MSI Z370 A-Pro | Asetek 550LC 120mm | WD Green 240GB SSD & Toshiba 2TB HDD | Other various components that I can't Remember 

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2 minutes ago, Insorior said:

Outervision PSU Calculator

these are bull. they don't calculate anything near right. almost the same with bottleneck calculators. This says i pull 828W. i pull MAYBE 450-500W. its just over calculating. 

Rig 1: i7-9700k OC'd to 5.0ghz all core | EVGA XC RTX 2080Ti | ADATA DDR4 2400mhz 4x8gb | ASUS PRIME Z370-P | Asetek 550LC 120mm | ADATA 480GB SSD & Toshiba P300 3TB | Cooler Master Masterbox MB500 | Win 10 Home | Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum, G502 Proteus Spectrum, G933 Artemis Spectrum Snow Wireless Limited Edition, Corsair MM300 Mouse Pad | 2 MSI Optix Curved 27" FHD Monitors 

 

(before i sold the WD drive and MSI gpu - https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/11946219 171 gaming. felt good.)

 

Rig 2: i7-7700k Stock clocks | MSI Armor GTX 1070 | ADATA DDR4 2400mhz 2x8GB | MSI Z270 A-Pro | WD Green 240GB SSD & 2TB Seagate HDD | Thermaltake Core G21 Tempered Glass Edition | Win 10 Home | 2 HP Omen FHD 144hz 24.5" Monitors 

 

Rig 3: i7-6700 | GT 730 & GT 645 OEM | Some random DDR4 2133mhz 2x8gb sticks | OEM Dell Mobo | WD Black 2TB HDD & Toshiba 1TB HDD | Win 10 Home | 3 27" Dell FHD Monitors 

 

Rig 4: i7-4770 | EVGA SSC 1050ti | Some random DDR3 ram 2x2gb and 2x4gb sticks | OEM Dell Mobo | Stock Cooler | 1TB WD Black HDD | Win 7 Home 

 

RIP 

 

Rig 5 (dead and dismantled and sold) : i7-7820X OC'd to 4.8ghz all core | MSI DUKE 1080ti | ADATA DDR4 2400mhz 4x8gb | Gigabyte X299 UD4 PRO | Asetek 240mm AIO | WD Green 240gb SSD | Other various components that I can't remember

 

Rig 6 (same fate as rig 5) i7-8700k stock clocks | MSI DUKE 1080ti | ADATA DDR4 2400mhz 2x8gb | MSI Z370 A-Pro | Asetek 550LC 120mm | WD Green 240GB SSD & Toshiba 2TB HDD | Other various components that I can't Remember 

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1 hour ago, TH3R34P3R said:

honestly all you should connect to it is the desktop and monitor and router. so you can save whatever you are doing before it can be lost. the playstation, well, simply put its not as prone to carrying important data that can be lost by a power cut. speakers well, i dont think its worth keeping them on a UPS. they aren't crucial. As if you are in the middle of a heavy workload, you get maybe 3-10 minutes (depending on the size of the behemoth you wanna buy) of full load run time, thats it. you want to keep power draw to a minimum. 

 

I would recommend this one or a similar one: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842301561 

Ok thanks! :) About connectivity, can i connect the desktop, monitor and router to Battery Backup Outlets of the UPS and the playstation and speakers to Surge Protected Outlets of the UPS ? Because i read in the official site of APC that it's not recommended to plug the UPS into surge protector and only into the wall receptacle is that right ?

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13 minutes ago, JohnnyCyp said:

Ok thanks! :) About connectivity, can i connect the desktop, monitor and router to Battery Backup Outlets of the UPS and the playstation and speakers to Surge Protected Outlets of the UPS ? Because i read in the official site of APC that it's not recommended to plug the UPS into surge protector and only into the wall receptacle is that right ?

yes. I have been looking at that one for myself, however I honestly have no place to put it near my desk. 

Rig 1: i7-9700k OC'd to 5.0ghz all core | EVGA XC RTX 2080Ti | ADATA DDR4 2400mhz 4x8gb | ASUS PRIME Z370-P | Asetek 550LC 120mm | ADATA 480GB SSD & Toshiba P300 3TB | Cooler Master Masterbox MB500 | Win 10 Home | Logitech G910 Orion Spectrum, G502 Proteus Spectrum, G933 Artemis Spectrum Snow Wireless Limited Edition, Corsair MM300 Mouse Pad | 2 MSI Optix Curved 27" FHD Monitors 

 

(before i sold the WD drive and MSI gpu - https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/11946219 171 gaming. felt good.)

 

Rig 2: i7-7700k Stock clocks | MSI Armor GTX 1070 | ADATA DDR4 2400mhz 2x8GB | MSI Z270 A-Pro | WD Green 240GB SSD & 2TB Seagate HDD | Thermaltake Core G21 Tempered Glass Edition | Win 10 Home | 2 HP Omen FHD 144hz 24.5" Monitors 

 

Rig 3: i7-6700 | GT 730 & GT 645 OEM | Some random DDR4 2133mhz 2x8gb sticks | OEM Dell Mobo | WD Black 2TB HDD & Toshiba 1TB HDD | Win 10 Home | 3 27" Dell FHD Monitors 

 

Rig 4: i7-4770 | EVGA SSC 1050ti | Some random DDR3 ram 2x2gb and 2x4gb sticks | OEM Dell Mobo | Stock Cooler | 1TB WD Black HDD | Win 7 Home 

 

RIP 

 

Rig 5 (dead and dismantled and sold) : i7-7820X OC'd to 4.8ghz all core | MSI DUKE 1080ti | ADATA DDR4 2400mhz 4x8gb | Gigabyte X299 UD4 PRO | Asetek 240mm AIO | WD Green 240gb SSD | Other various components that I can't remember

 

Rig 6 (same fate as rig 5) i7-8700k stock clocks | MSI DUKE 1080ti | ADATA DDR4 2400mhz 2x8gb | MSI Z370 A-Pro | Asetek 550LC 120mm | WD Green 240GB SSD & Toshiba 2TB HDD | Other various components that I can't Remember 

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57 minutes ago, TH3R34P3R said:

yes. I have been looking at that one for myself, however I honestly have no place to put it near my desk. 

https://www.apc.com/shop/cy/en/products/APC-Back-UPS-1400VA-230V-AVR-IEC-Sockets/P-BX1400UI 

Can i use this UPS ? because the other 1500VA model can't find it on amazon, and newegg can't shipped to my country.

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2 minutes ago, JohnnyCyp said:

https://www.apc.com/shop/cy/en/products/APC-Back-UPS-1400VA-230V-AVR-IEC-Sockets/P-BX1400UI 

Can i use this UPS ? because the other 1500VA model can't find it on amazon, and newegg can't shipped to my country.

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ASUS X470-PRO • R7 1700 4GHz • Corsair H110i GT P/P • 2x MSI RX 480 8G • Corsair DP 2x8 @3466 • EVGA 750 G2 • Corsair 730T • Crucial MX500 250GB • WD 4TB

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VA and wattage are both important. To grossly oversimplify it, the VA rating will tell you the maximum amount of current you might draw from the wall socket. Treat VA the same as watts (volts x amps). For a 15A 120v circuit with no other load on it you can safely go up to 1500VA as long as you won't be drawing the maximum all the time (for that, you would be limited to 1400VA since circuit breakers are usually rated for less continuous load than their peak load; the actual amount will vary from country to country and we don't know where you live). The watts rating is how much load you can plug into the UPS. Unless the UPs' ratings specify otherwise, assume that means both the battery protected and surge protected only sides combined.

Jeannie

 

As long as anyone is oppressed, no one will be safe and free.

One has to be proactive, not reactive, to ensure the safety of one's data so backup your data! And RAID is NOT a backup!

 

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just went through buying ups.   price range $90 to $200 united states bucks, find something between 1350 to 1500 VA,  and 820 to 970 watts.  

 

figure any were from 4 to 6 minute full load, to 10 to 15 minute half load limit for run time. (less wattage equipment draws the longer your run time)

 

double check you can get "replacement batteries". 

and more so check to see if warranty is minimum 3 years if not 5 years from manufacture. longer warranty costs a little more but *shrugs* 

 

a TIP:  UPS also search for AVR (audio video recording) if i remember term correct for UPS.  the AVR specifications tends to place you in the higher VA and WATTs units.

 

==============

reminder make sure you install if need be correct drivers/software on computer. so computer can do a force shut down if need be, vs power loss all of a sudden. 

 

most UPS have "battery+surge" and then "surge" sockets.   monitor, pc, router on battery, then ps4 and like on surge.

 

NOTE: have found "surge" to be rather lacking on many of the UPS vs an actual surge protector that has better ratings for surge.

 

UPS more protects from "brown outs" low power or no power. and some "surge" to much power.

while surge protectors / strips i have found protect from "higher surge" to much power, and some arcing better.  

 

other words double check your specifications, does not matter cheepie or expensive the its all in the specs.

 

=================

newegg had a discount on cyperpower C1350LA for like 25 bucks off. (looks to be over) vs one i was going to get which was 1500va for 70 bucks more. 

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20 hours ago, boggen said:

just went through buying ups.   price range $90 to $200 united states bucks, find something between 1350 to 1500 VA,  and 820 to 970 watts.  

 

figure any were from 4 to 6 minute full load, to 10 to 15 minute half load limit for run time. (less wattage equipment draws the longer your run time)

 

double check you can get "replacement batteries". 

and more so check to see if warranty is minimum 3 years if not 5 years from manufacture. longer warranty costs a little more but *shrugs* 

 

a TIP:  UPS also search for AVR (audio video recording) if i remember term correct for UPS.  the AVR specifications tends to place you in the higher VA and WATTs units.

 

==============

reminder make sure you install if need be correct drivers/software on computer. so computer can do a force shut down if need be, vs power loss all of a sudden. 

 

most UPS have "battery+surge" and then "surge" sockets.   monitor, pc, router on battery, then ps4 and like on surge.

 

NOTE: have found "surge" to be rather lacking on many of the UPS vs an actual surge protector that has better ratings for surge.

 

UPS more protects from "brown outs" low power or no power. and some "surge" to much power.

while surge protectors / strips i have found protect from "higher surge" to much power, and some arcing better.  

 

other words double check your specifications, does not matter cheepie or expensive the its all in the specs.

 

=================

newegg had a discount on cyperpower C1350LA for like 25 bucks off. (looks to be over) vs one i was going to get which was 1500va for 70 bucks more. 

I will be ok if i use UPS with 1400VA and 700watts ? This model: https://www.apc.com/shop/cy/en/products/APC-Back-UPS-1400VA-230V-AVR-IEC-Sockets/P-BX1400UI

I think its has only 6 outputs for battery backup only. Its ok to plug all my devices here ? or do i need surge protected output in UPS ?

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joule 2570s in a "surge protector"  and the UPS you link to is 700 joule. higher is better in this case.

https://www.apc.com/shop/cy/en/products/APC-Performance-SurgeArrest-8-outlets-with-Phone-Coax-Network-Protection-230V-UK/P-PF8VNT3-UK

 

UPS is for brown outs (low power)

surge protector is for (to much power)

 

UPS generally have low end on surge protecting, and that is what your UPS has general low end. 

 

will the UPS you pick work long enough to as in minutes to get your stuff saved and shut down. i do not see why not. but would suggest surge protector along with UPS for your other items. 

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10 hours ago, boggen said:

joule 2570s in a "surge protector"  and the UPS you link to is 700 joule. higher is better in this case.

https://www.apc.com/shop/cy/en/products/APC-Performance-SurgeArrest-8-outlets-with-Phone-Coax-Network-Protection-230V-UK/P-PF8VNT3-UK

 

UPS is for brown outs (low power)

surge protector is for (to much power)

 

UPS generally have low end on surge protecting, and that is what your UPS has general low end. 

 

will the UPS you pick work long enough to as in minutes to get your stuff saved and shut down. i do not see why not. but would suggest surge protector along with UPS for your other items. 

It's OK to plug the UPS into surge protector along with other devices ? because i read in APC official site that it's not recommended to plug the UPS into surge protector and only to the wall receptacle... 
https://www.apc.com/us/en/faqs/FA158852/

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Quote

 

Using surge strips with APC's Back-UPS and Smart-UPS products.

Issue:

What is Schneider Electric's policy for using surge strips with the APC Back-UPS and APC Smart-UPS product families?


Product Line:

All models of Back-UPS and Smart-UPS


Environment: 

All models of Back-UPS and Smart-UPS


Cause:
 

Schneider Electric recommends against the use of any surge protector, power strip or extension cord being plugged into the output of any APC Back-UPS and Smart-UPS products. This document will explain why.


Resolution:

Plugging a surge protector into your UPS: 
The noise filtration circuitry in a Surge Protector can effectively "mask" some of the load from the UPS, causing the UPS to report a lower percentage of attached load than there actually is. This can cause a user to inadvertently overload their UPS. When the UPS switches to battery, it may be unable to support the equipment attached, causing a dropped load. 

Surge protectors filter the power for surges and offer EMI/RFI filtering but do not efficiently distribute the power, meaning that some equipment may be deprived of the necessary amperage it requires to run properly  causing your attached equipment (computer, monitor, etc) to shutdown or reboot. If you need to supply additional receptacles on the output of your UPS, we recommend using Power Distribution Units (PDU's). PDUs evenly distribute the amperage among the outlets, while the UPS will filter the power and provide surge protection. PDUs use and distribute the available amperage more efficiently, allowing your equipment to receive the best available power to maintain operation.

 

this i will bite into and agree, more likely this to happen of what the say above.
 

Quote

Plugging your UPS into a surge protector:
In order for your UPS to get the best power available, you should plug your UPS directly into the wall receptacle. Plugging your UPS into a surge protector may cause the UPS to go to battery often when it normally should remain online. This is because other, more powerful equipment may draw necessary voltage away from the UPS which it requires to remain online. In addition, it may compromise the ground connection which the UPS needs in order to provide adequate surge protection. All APC Back-UPS and Smart-UPS products provide proper surge suppression for power lines without the need of additional protection.

this sounds more like covering there rear plain and simple. 

  • someone plugs in vacuum cleaner (big no no) even for me, plugging in vacuum or drill, saw, or other stuff in same circuit breaker protection as pc, ups, monitors, tv, gaming, is a (big no no). and can cause havioc. 
  • but other eletronic equipment, tv, pc, speakers, router, external hard drives, and other stuff. so what if UPS goes into battery mode. if it goes into battery mode due to this, person has more problems than just UPS going into battery mode, more likely to cause circuit breakers to trip, and if they do not trip then more likely a fire might happen. 
Quote

Maintaining EPP and Warranty:
Plugging any non-APC surge protector, power strip, or extension cord into the output of an APC brand UPS could void your Equipment Protection Policy (EPP). However, the standard 3 year product warranty is maintained. If, after taking into consideration this knowledge base document, you choose to use an APC brand surge protector in conjunction with your APC brand UPS, your warranty and Equipment Protection Policy will be maintained.

this i would fight them with lawyers. only their equipment and no others. *MEH* unfair market practice. 

  • but ya plugging another power strip into ups. most likely not. *SCRATCH THAT*. i will do. ya know i got these big bulky plugs, for my router, modem, little speakers, land line phone that take up at least 2 receptacles on rear of UPS per plug in. so yes, i will plug in a stinking power strip into ups, so i can actually plug in the items that are so low power it really does not matter. at least to me. 

======================

overall.  i do have a surge protector -> UPS -> a small power strip.

 

  • wall outlet
    • surge protector
      • receiver / stereo 7.1
      • camera charger (to fat of a plug)
      • printer 1
      • printer 2
      • ups on battery
        • pc
        • monitor
        • power strip
          • router (to fat of a plug)
          • small led power strip (so i can see what the heck i am doing in the dark, when power  does go off)
        • power strip
          • land line phone (to fat of a plug) (only way to make call when power goes out)
          • modem (to fat of a plug)
          • external hard drive.(to fat of a plug)

i do not plug in other things into this outlet that are power hungry (vacuums, drills, saws, microwaves, fridges, toasters, ovens, etc...), and more so wall outlet goes directly to main circuit breaker in house. no other outlets / lights in home run off this circuit or i would be causing danger as in fire and like. 

 

count up your WATTS and AMPS for your voltage. and figure it out on some calculator on internet to find out your max and be safe. you can get plug in power adapters, that go between wall outlet and what ever you plug in.  to read out Watts and/or AMPs as well that might help get a better true reading on power usage. 

 

with everything be safe. do not do what i would do, it could very well kill ya!

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