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No memory voltage broken ?

The321
By The321
in Graphics Cards
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Soo I was gaming and my Gpu stopped giving a display. The crystal isn't warming up and the reason is there is no voltage on the memory. When I put voltage on the memory the crystal heats etc soo I'm sure the lack of voltage on the memory is the problem. But now I'm a bit stuck on finding the specific component that''s bad.

 

Anybody has a tutorial for this or something particular that might have failed ? 

 

Ty

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https://linustechtips.com/topic/1030604-no-memory-voltage-broken/
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explain what's "crystal" first

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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8 minutes ago, The321 said:

Gpu die itself

maybe the memory VRM failed. A fail here usually kills the memory controller though, so it might not work even if you do fix it. As usual, taking the card's cooler off and checking for damaged components is the best way.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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12 hours ago, Jurrunio said:

maybe the memory VRM failed. A fail here usually kills the memory controller though, so it might not work even if you do fix it. As usual, taking the card's cooler off and checking for damaged components is the best way.

There is no visible damage 

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Without a schematic it will be difficult but it should be easy enough to check the zero ohm resistors to see if they have gone open or the inductors. Perhaps it would be easier to source a 12V to 1.5V buck supply and piggy back it to the board but I don't know how much current would be needed. What about the 1.5V supply you are using, could you test first with that and a couple of wires to the board so it can be plugged in?

AWOL

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On 2/10/2019 at 4:27 AM, X_X said:

Without a schematic it will be difficult but it should be easy enough to check the zero ohm resistors to see if they have gone open or the inductors. Perhaps it would be easier to source a 12V to 1.5V buck supply and piggy back it to the board but I don't know how much current would be needed. What about the 1.5V supply you are using, could you test first with that and a couple of wires to the board so it can be plugged in?

Yeah than the gpu core heats up but it cant deliver enough current cuz the cables etc have too many resistance and it can do max 2,5A

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