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Started new build, MSI mobo won't boot; error code 0d

MOTHERBOARD: MSI x370 xPower Gaming Titanium 11GB OC
GPU: ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1080Ti 16GB OC
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1,800
STORAGE: Samsung V-NAND SSD 970 Evo NVMe M.2 1TB
RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR4; 4x8GB | 32GB
CPU COOLER: Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4 Premium Dual-Tower CPU Cooler for AMD AM4
PSU: Corsair HX-1200
Here's a visual list of the main parts:
 
So i had the CPU fan connected properly, the GPU with the double ended cord, and of course the 24-pin ATX cord plugged into the mobo.
I have my monitor connected directly to the mobo, with both HDMI and DisplayPort cables just in case the default display is HDMI.
The motherboard cycles, the GPU, and PSU fans stop, and the CPU fans keep spinning, and when it stops it shows error code 0d.
I checked the RAM and GPU to make sure they were sitting in their slots properly, same error code. I reset. Same error code.
I hold the power button to turn the mobo off, switch the PSU off, and then hold the power button for 30 seconds to get rid of any residual charge.
Then i tried testing the RAM. First testing the mobo with one RAM chip at a time. Then with just two in first and third slots, and then again with all four. Same error code. I tried resetting a few times, same error code.
I then removed the CPU, and reset it, put paste again (pea format). And tried testing the motherboard that way (with all RAM and m.2).
Then i removed the battery, and set it back again. Same error code.
The finally i removed the m.2 NVMe, same error code. Reseated the m.2, Same error code.
I truly give up. If it's a BIOS issue i can't fix it myself because it won't boot to the MSI BIOS so that i could update it.
~~~~~
my friend who has build hundreds of computers helped me do other tests. We removed the cords from the mother board and checked to see if any pins were missing, none were (except for the usual on the 24 pin side of the atx cord; we corroborated that with another 24 pin that i had and it was the same).
Next we booted the mobo with just the RAM and no GPU. Same error code. Next we booted with no RAM and no GPU, mobo display showed only temperature of CPU.
We also tested each RAM AGAIN, one by one in the first slot, and every time we got the same error message. So the conclusion is that it's not the fault of the GPU or the RAM, or the CPU since we checked it for damaged (missing pins etc) and didn't find any.
The conclusion is that the mobo is defective. If you have anyy other thoughts please let me know with all that I've written.
In an hour from the time of this second e-mail, i will make one last effort by removing the power, and the battery from the mobo to reset it that way. If that doesn't work, then you will have to help me by telling me what i should tell the RMA center here to get a refund since I still have at least a year and a half on the manufacturer warranty.
~~~~~
I attempted to do that last test and got code 62 which is Installation of the PCH runtimes Services.... I realized i forgot to plug in the gpu cords lol I powered down, plugged in the GPU cords and got the old error 0d again....Without the GPU i now get just a temperature reading for the CPU.
99% sure the mobo is garbage.
And yes i took precautions. I had anti-statis mat on the table, clipped to the inner frame of my powered-down old PC, and even had an anti-static wrist strap, connected to same place. And i also decided to put the mobo on a box (no choice since the GPU IO protrudes on the left side, so it need to be higher off the table.
I really give up at this point
Contacted RSI with same info I've shown you here.
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A quick google search show 0D to mean Failed DRAM Training, in other words you bought RAM that doesn't work with your CPU.

 

The only option you have is to return the RAM and have it replaced by something that appears on the motherboard QVL. FTR Ryzen 1 really doesn't like RAM thats faster than 2400Mhz, G Skill Flair X or Team Group Dark T-Force RAM are both Ryzen certified.

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4 minutes ago, Master Disaster said:

A quick google search show 0D to mean Failed DRAM Training, in other words you bought RAM that doesn't work with your CPU.

 

The only option you have is to return the RAM and have it replaced by something that appears on the motherboard QVL.

where did you find this? the manual says is a reserved code and thats is unassigned

 

 

39 minutes ago, Apocalypse2001 said:

We also tested each RAM AGAIN, one by one in the first slot, and every time we got the same error message.

wrong slot.

you should be using a2 (the second slot)

 

also try disconnect all hdds and sdds

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Untighten your cpu cooler.

And also just try putting in 1 dimm before placing the rest

Minecraft plugin developer

Desktop:
CPU= I5 12400F
RAM = 2x 32gb DDR4 3200MHZ Corsair Vengeance LPX
Motherboard = MSI Z690-A-PRO Wifi DDR4
GPU= RTX 3050
SSD = Samsung 980 Pro 1TB
PSU= Corsair RM750

Laptop:
CPU= AMD Ryzen 5 5500u
RAM= 1X 4gb (soldered 3200mhz), 1x 16gb ddr4 3200mhz (so-dimm)
SSD= Samsung 970 Evo 1TB

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You mentioned every cable ... just not the EPS for the CPU power supply on the mainboard (8-Pin or 4-Pin or 8+4 or 8+8). Mistake during typing or actual mistake during build time?

Use the quote function when answering! Mark people directly if you want an answer from them!

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13 hours ago, bowrilla said:

You mentioned every cable ... just not the EPS for the CPU power supply on the mainboard (8-Pin or 4-Pin or 8+4 or 8+8). Mistake during typing or actual mistake during build time?

no i removed all cords except the one for the CPU fans...

 

13 hours ago, CustomEnchants said:

Untighten your cpu cooler.

And also just try putting in 1 dimm before placing the rest

I already reseated the CPU twice. Unless you mean to try booting the mobo without a cpu cooler, which seems irresponsible, no?

 

13 hours ago, narrdarr said:

where did you find this? the manual says is a reserved code and thats is unassigned

wrong slot.

you should be using a2 (the second slot)

also try disconnect all hdds and sdds

I'm not using any HDDs..... it's assembled on my desk without a case... the only drive installed is the NVMe, and removing that didn't change the error code.

I just tested each stick of RAM in the second slot. With the first one, the mobo cycled two or three times, ending up at 0d every time. Testing the other three, each cycled two, first cycle ending up at 0d, but second one gave code for CPU temperature.

 

13 hours ago, narrdarr said:

where did you find this? the manual says is a reserved code and thats is unassigned

Correct. That's what is stated in the manual.

 

wrong slot.

you should be using a2 (the second slot)

Oh....odd. The technicians i spoke to said the first...sigh...

also try disconnect all hdds and sdds

14 hours ago, Master Disaster said:

A quick google search show 0D to mean Failed DRAM Training, in other words you bought RAM that doesn't work with your CPU.

 

The only option you have is to return the RAM and have it replaced by something that appears on the motherboard QVL. FTR Ryzen 1 really doesn't like RAM thats faster than 2400Mhz, G Skill Flair X or Team Group Dark T-Force RAM are both Ryzen certified.

it is compatible with my CPU: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=166631

of course for mine, the CMR16GX4M2C3000C15, it says at the top it is compatible with select motherboards. But i can't find a compatibility list for mine

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6 minutes ago, Apocalypse2001 said:

no i removed all cords except the one for the CPU fans...

This doesn't answer the question. You mentioned the 24-pin ATX cable but not the EPS cable. In case of your board you'll need at least either one 4-pin, or one 8-pin, you can use both for the cleanest and most stable voltage but you'll need at least one of those. You haven't mentioned the EPS cable and the fans have nothing to do with it. So I ask again: mistake while typing the original post or did you forget to use it?

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8 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

This doesn't answer the question. You mentioned the 24-pin ATX cable but not the EPS cable. In case of your board you'll need at least either one 4-pin, or one 8-pin, you can use both for the cleanest and most stable voltage but you'll need at least one of those. You haven't mentioned the EPS cable and the fans have nothing to do with it. So I ask again: mistake while typing the original post or did you forget to use it?

cpu 8 pin was removed, yes. (The one that is on the upper left side above the CPU)

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3 minutes ago, Apocalypse2001 said:

cpu 8 pin was removed, yes. (The one that is on the upper left side above the CPU)

Why removed? It can't (or shouldn't be able to) boot without it. There's no point in removing ATX and EPS. You need those. Forget the rest. It should even post without a fan plugged in (though there will be an error message probably). 

 

3 minutes ago, Apocalypse2001 said:

I just tested each stick of RAM in the second slot. With the first one, the mobo cycled two or three times, ending up at 0d every time. Testing the other three, each cycled two, first cycle ending up at 0d, but second one gave code for CPU temperature.


Booting Ryzen the first time takes some time for memory training. No matter if a stick is on the QVL list or not, it HAS TO WORK with Ryzen at JDEC DDR4 standard 2133. If it doesn't the module is defective as long as CPU and mainboard are working. Since you've successfully tested 3 of your 4 modules I'd say one of the modules is broken. Try booting with 2 of the working modules (in the right slots, see your manual for identifying the right ones). Use the CPU cooler. Booting without a cooler works for a few seconds but after that it will get iffy. You can even put your hand on the CPU while trying to post. You should use your cooler though. If it overheats you've either mounted the cooler wrong or something else is broken as well.

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1 minute ago, bowrilla said:

Why removed? It can't (or shouldn't be able to) boot without it. There's no point in removing ATX and EPS. You need those. Forget the rest. It should even post without a fan plugged in (though there will be an error message probably).

-.-    i removed them and them to check for any missing pins, and then reinserted them to make sure they were in 100%... i already stated that in my first post.

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5 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

Booting Ryzen the first time takes some time for memory training. No matter if a stick is on the QVL list or not, it HAS TO WORK with Ryzen at JDEC DDR4 standard 2133. If it doesn't the module is defective as long as CPU and mainboard are working. Since you've successfully tested 3 of your 4 modules I'd say one of the modules is broken. Try booting with 2 of the working modules (in the right slots, see your manual for identifying the right ones). Use the CPU cooler. Booting without a cooler works for a few seconds but after that it will get iffy. You can even put your hand on the CPU while trying to post. You should use your cooler though. If it overheats you've either mounted the cooler wrong or something else is broken as well.

Just tried two of the "working" modules in A2 and B2, it cycles only once, and ends up at 0d again....

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4 minutes ago, Apocalypse2001 said:

Just tried two of the "working" modules in A2 and B2, it cycles only once, and ends up at 0d again....

Then you probably have a broken mainboard or a broken CPU assuming everything was assembled correctly. In theory it could be the PSU having a broken EPS cable resulting in unstable voltage supply for the CPU and the memory controller being instable but ... it's probably the board or the CPU.

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two RAM modules in A2 and B2 doesn't give that error code. End up showing code for cpu temperature... but will not go to BIOS. Monitor isn't an issu as i have tested an old monitor as well with an HDMI connection

 

sorry initial RAM tes with two modules was done without a GPU...with the GPU it shows a code for temperature... but no display of BIOS on either HDMI or DisplayPort

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6 minutes ago, Apocalypse2001 said:

sorry initial RAM tes with two modules was done without a GPU...with the GPU it shows a code for temperature... but no display of BIOS on either HDMI or DisplayPort

So it does work with two modules. Is the cooler mounted, fresh paste, cpu fan plugged in?

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Just now, bowrilla said:

So it does work with two modules. Is the cooler mounted, fresh paste, cpu fan plugged in?

yes, all of that....but, no BIOS boot

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Well, assuming the cooler is mounted correctly and the CPU isn't too hot either mainboard or cpu have a faulty temperature probe. You can try to post ghetto Linus style without the cooler (but a fan plugged in) and your hand on the heatspreader. Should be enough to get you into BIOS to see if it works. If it gets really hot, flip the switch on the PSU and shut down immediately. This is not a recommended thing to do but it can work. Your hand basically works as a very weird biological waterblock - a very bad one. If that works you have an issue with your cooler - it's either a mounted not correctly or a manufacturing error leads to bad or barely any contact. The 1800 came with a stock cooler, didn't it? You can try that one as well. If it still doesn't work either it's either your mainboard or your CPU. 

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1 hour ago, bowrilla said:

Well, assuming the cooler is mounted correctly and the CPU isn't too hot either mainboard or cpu have a faulty temperature probe. You can try to post ghetto Linus style without the cooler (but a fan plugged in) and your hand on the heatspreader. Should be enough to get you into BIOS to see if it works. If it gets really hot, flip the switch on the PSU and shut down immediately. This is not a recommended thing to do but it can work. Your hand basically works as a very weird biological waterblock - a very bad one. If that works you have an issue with your cooler - it's either a mounted not correctly or a manufacturing error leads to bad or barely any contact. The 1800 came with a stock cooler, didn't it? You can try that one as well. If it still doesn't work either it's either your mainboard or your CPU. 

no, it didn't have a stock cooler. At least not the version i bought. It was just the CPU. -- Well the cooler is specifically designed for AM4, and it does make contact because the paste almost ended up on the cpu base. Though i lifted the cooler to clean just now the paste had spread but there was barely any in the middle. I'll try to do better next time

Also i'll keep what you said in mind, though i hope it doesn't come to that. I called MSI and they told what to do to send it to them, though the RMA office isn't far from where i live.

I'll go give it to them in person. Their instruction e-mail also said that if they can't fix it, they'll send a replacement - one that's refurbished...i paid all that money to get an essentially used replacement. What a joke.

I'd like to keep this thread open for about two weeks so i can tell you guys if the replacement works. if not i'll demand a refund, and buy an ASUS board.

 

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You could also make an RMA claim at the shop you bought it at. I wouldn't accept getting a refurbished board when I paid for a new one and probably received a faulty one - especially not in this price region. 

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you shouldn't have to put any pressure on an amd cpu without a cooler.

just need a fan in the cpu fan header (sometimes)

have you tried a different psu?

do any of the led lights next to the 24 pin power light up as well?

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6 hours ago, Apocalypse2001 said:

I already reseated the CPU twice. Unless you mean to try booting the mobo without a cpu cooler, which seems irresponsible, no?

I'm saying don't screw the cpu cooler in as tight as you currently may have it

Minecraft plugin developer

Desktop:
CPU= I5 12400F
RAM = 2x 32gb DDR4 3200MHZ Corsair Vengeance LPX
Motherboard = MSI Z690-A-PRO Wifi DDR4
GPU= RTX 3050
SSD = Samsung 980 Pro 1TB
PSU= Corsair RM750

Laptop:
CPU= AMD Ryzen 5 5500u
RAM= 1X 4gb (soldered 3200mhz), 1x 16gb ddr4 3200mhz (so-dimm)
SSD= Samsung 970 Evo 1TB

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10 hours ago, bowrilla said:

You could also make an RMA claim at the shop you bought it at. I wouldn't accept getting a refurbished board when I paid for a new one and probably received a faulty one - especially not in this price region. 

i can't, because i it was the one part for which i didn't buy a warranty with the shop itself...so now i have to deal with the manufacturer. I can't accept a refurbished unit either - it infuriates me that I'll get a refurbished one, when i paid for a supposedly brand new working mobo... >:|

And i told them that when i went there today in person to deliver it, and he just said it's guaranteed to work because it's been tested...yeah oh joy...

He said i can pick up the replacement in roughly a week.

 

8 hours ago, narrdarr said:

you shouldn't have to put any pressure on an amd cpu without a cooler.

just need a fan in the cpu fan header (sometimes)

have you tried a different psu?

do any of the led lights next to the 24 pin power light up as well?

at last check, when it stopped cycling and ended up at 0d, only the boot light was lit up

 

7 hours ago, CustomEnchants said:

I'm saying don't screw the cpu cooler in as tight as you currently may have it

i understand, but usually you screw in the cooler until the screw with the springs stop turning... (it's fitted vertically since even this one won't fit horizontally with the RAM that i'm using. I'm afraid if it's looser that it may eventually fall with the vibrations...

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This may seem weird but

did we try clearing cmos and did we remove the jumper

 

i was talking to someone. he said to try:

1 stick in a2

boot

let it error

shutdown

clear cmos

boot

 

It worked for him

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17 minutes ago, narrdarr said:

i was talking to someone. he said to try:

1 stick in a2

boot

let it error

shutdown

clear cmos

boot

 

It worked for him

I'll make a note of that if the same crap happens with the replacement.

how do you clear CMOS, again? sorry, i'm still a novice.

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7 hours ago, narrdarr said:

This may seem weird but

did we try clearing cmos and did we remove the jumper

 

i was talking to someone. he said to try:

1 stick in a2

boot

let it error

shutdown

clear cmos

boot

 

It worked for him

He removed the battery. Waiting a bitbefore putting it back means clearing CMOS as well. 

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