Next Project

[GMart84]

Even though I literally finished my build just a couple of weeks ago I am already getting the itch to make it look better.  So here is what I am thinking.

 

Step 1: 3D print then post process waterproof two reservoir couplers and add additional res space with the fluid coming in from the back.  I have no idea why this appeals to me so much I just like the idea.  The coupler I made in Onshape is based on the Koolance one that is commercially available but designed for EK Res X3's.  The threads do not show up well in 3D paint which I used to create the PNGs.

 

Step 2:  Mount the reservoirs to my P.LOTOR pumps without the use of a G1/4 extender through the use of an 3D printed and waterproofed post processed adapter that is designed to go from the 50mm pump res spot to the EK Res 60mm size.

 

Step 3: 3D print a motherboard tray replacement that only has the necessary holes for cables inside the computer.  It also has special slots on the back for the RGB strips so that I can eliminate the ones that are visible in my case and maintain the lighting I want.  This will need to be printed in 9 pieces on my 3D printer and then glue together with Gorilla glue.  The inside of the case should never see above 35-40° C and so I am not super worried about using PLA to print all of this.

 

Step 4: Replace the front area where my watercooling pumps send the water through to the rads in the back with a 5" diagonal screen that shows PC stats.

Step 5: Replace the Thermaltake Logo in the front of the case with something else 3D printed.  Just not sure what yet, I have thought about different Logos, or I could use my laser engraver to do something in a small piece of acrylic and light it from the back with the RGB LEDs.

 

Anyway that is the start of this project.  The 50mm to 60mm reservoir adapter is printing for the first time now and is going to take about 6 hours for the first attempt.  There is going to be a lot of trial and error involved in this I am sure.

 

Thanks again for letting me share.

[W-L]

2 hours ago, GMart84 said:

-SNIP-

What process are you using to waterproof per-say, cause normal FDM type 3D prints are not exactly watertight nor can they really hold pressure. 

[GMart84]

@W-L I will be using automotive bondo to fill in gaps, then will sand everything down, prime and paint with black paint and finish with some lacquer.  I have been reading many articles on it and the process above typically yields the best results in terms of waterproofing. 

[W-L]

3 hours ago, GMart84 said:

@W-L I will be using automotive bondo to fill in gaps, then will sand everything down, prime and paint with black paint and finish with some lacquer.  I have been reading many articles on it and the process above typically yields the best results in terms of waterproofing. 

That may make it water resistant and be able to hold water but long term reliability like that is questionable espically if there is any pressure as you plan to use this in a loop. There is also concerns with the  materials you use to print as they are also hydroscopic and will physically absorb water. The only type of printing that may be consider really waterproof may be SLA type printers that use UV curing resins. 

[GMart84]

@W-L I hadn’t thought of the pressure being a problem to be honest.  I have used parts in cars and in everyday things that are put under way more structural stress than I would think the loop psi is.  So it is time to experiment then.  The first print took a while and I have filled and sanded it now.

 

I will print a second and try a couple of different methods to get it waterproof.  The first listed above and a second following the same steps but then painting with peel coat or plastidip those are truly waterproof and as long as I get a good coat on there the part should completely repel water.

 

Second experiment will be with a small loop outside of a case with out a rad to just see if I can make this work.  I will use a reasonable pump to create the flow and pressure and see if it holds up.  I am thinking a couple of weeks for each test.  This means this project will take longer than I hoped but should enable me to be sure that it will work.

[GMart84]

@W-L So I have done some testing and the waterproof capabilities are there when finishing the part with filler and plastidip or peelcoat.  The pressure is a problem but not the way I thought.  If any part of the threaded part makes an imperfect seal it finds it.  I have printed the part 4 times ranging from .20 to .10 resolution on the printer and it doesn't get it perfectly right.  I think I am off on the thread design which is what is causing the imperfect seal.  I will give it another go.  In the mean time I wanted my PC working again, so I printed some stands for the Reservoirs that lift them about 90 mm above the base of the case so they seem much larger than they are.  The mount is mostly hidden behind the metal bracket in the Tower 900 so it looks pretty good, in my opinion.

 

Next I wanted to get the pumps out of the way and not have them be the lowest point in the loop anymore, so I printed 2.5" drive adapters to mount them to the SSD trays that have mounting holes in the front of the case.  I am trying to do things without drilling into the case.  So each pump is mounted on either side of the center portion of the case.

 

Overall I like the look so far.  I really wish I was capable of doing hardline.  However I have failed at it twice so I will have to keep trying to make this as look as good as I can with soft tubing.

I do need to design and print the screen holder that will cover those 3.5 HDD bays and act as a secondary monitor for PC stats.  Also even with the reservoir mounts I could use some more res height.  I will look into buying just EK res tubes.

[W-L]

The thread shouldn’t be the seal but just a mechanical way of fastening. Check the mating surface that the oring will compress on that needs to be flat and smooth for it to properly seal. Good to see that the water proofing method worked, personally I would try running the pump on it’s own for a few weeks just to make sure nothing in the short term degrades. 

[GMart84]

@W-L Good point!  I will definitely check on that.  I was hoping that the layer of rubber material would make a decent seal.  But a simple O-Ring may fix the problem.