Jump to content

Projector set-up help

SupaTech
Go to solution Solved by fabafaba,

I'd drill a 60mm hole in the projector room side of the wall for something like this for your mouse and keyboard to plug wireless dongles or whatever else in

https://www.amazon.com/ineo-Grommet-Desk-Fit-Diameter-THC06-IV/dp/B07F2CB4JP/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1544964949&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=usb+hub+desk&psc=1

 

To get the USB cables for the grommet through the wall on the other side, as well as to have a passthrough for a displayport cable, use these

https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-2-Pack-Single-Brush/dp/B071X8RLJL/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1544965160&sr=8-3&keywords=cable+wall+passthrough

 

And I'd really reccomend using a displayport cable for the monitor. I don't know how long the cable will have to be, but HDMI likes to crap out beyond 5-6m while you can get 10-15m on DP.

Dear all, 

 

My new house is being built and I currently have a big dilemma. I have two rooms to myself and I am planning to have a projector in one room and connect it to my PC in an adjacent room. Here is a diagram: 

image.png.7da62824fadaca1cc0a2e837d0ea64a5.png

The projector is attached to the ceiling. 

I am planning to run an HDMI/Displayport cable from the Projector through the wall to the PC on the ground. Does anyone have any tips for how this can be done? 

Also, I will need to control the projector with mouse and keyboard as I am planning to game using the projector. Does anyone have any tips for how I can do this? Ideally, I would want a USB hub to connect a keyboard and mouse on the wall, but I am not sure whether this is possible or not. Alternately, I can have a wireless keyboard and mouse, but I am afraid of whether the connection will still be strong enough to still be sufficiently "linked" to the PC through a solid wall. 

 

Thank you so much in advance. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

What is the wall made off? Brick/concrete or wood and drywall?

PC: Screw day theme users, I guess ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

CPU: R9 3900X @ 4.375GHz All Core MoBo: ASRock X470 Taichi RAM: 2x16GB Mushkin Redline @ 3200MHz 16-18-18-36 GPU: GTX 1080TI FE @ 2088MHz Cooling: Single 60x360mm rad w/ Scythe Kaze Flex, dual 45x540mm external rads passive, Nickel Plexi EKWB blocks, Alphacool VPP755V3 + Watercool Heatkiller Tube 250, Aquacomputer Quadro Case: Inter-Tech 4U 4129-N PSU: Corsair RM1000x Storage: 1TB Samsung 980 M2 SSD, 1TB Seagate Barracuda  Q1 SSD Network: Mellanox ConnectX-3 10G

 

NAS & Proxmox:

CPU:  Epyc 7302 MoBo: Supermicro H11SSL-i RAM:  8x32GB @ 2666MHz Samsung Registered ECC  Cooling: Enermax Liqtech TR4 II 360 w/ Corsair ML120 Case: InterTech 4F28 PSU: Seasonic Focus PX-650 Storage: 8x6TB HGST + 2x1TB WD Blue SN570 + 2x16GB Intel Optane SSDs Network: Mellanox ConnectX-3 10G

 

ML-Compute Server:

CPU:  i5 10600K MoBo: MSI MPG Z490 Gaming Plus RAM: 4x8GB HyperX Fury @ 2133MHz8 GPU: Gainward GTX 1080TI Golden Sample Cooling: Single 30 Case: RackMax 2U 8-Bay Storage Case Storage: 512GB Patriot P300 + 4x2TB Seagate Ironwolf NAS Network: Intel Quad 1G

Laptop: Acer Travelmate B117 (absolutely low power, but 12h battery life :D)

Phone: Oneplus Nord

Peripherals:

Monitor: LG 34UC79G + 27GL63T Keyboard: KBDFans 65Rev2 Mouse: Logitech G603 Mousepad: Cheap-ass GMB Mouspad Headphones: AKG K7XX  Other stuff: Novation Launchpad MK2, Aune T1 USB DAC/Amp, Behringer UMC202HD + Audio Technica AT2020 Condenser Mic

Cameras:

DSLR: Canon EOS 600D (Magic Lantern OS) Action Cam: GoPro Hero 3 Silver

Mountainbike:

Frame: Banshee Legend MKIII Fork: Marzocchi 380 C2R2 Titanium Rear shock: Rock Shox Vivid Air/Coil (switched depending on how I feel) Wheels: Spank Spike Race 33 Tires: Maxxis Minion DHR2/DHF Brakes: Magura MT5 Calipers with Shimano XT Levers Deraileur: Shimano Zee, Casette reduced to 6 Speed Crankset: Truvativ Descendant + 38T FSA Chainring Wheight: 16.4kg w/o pedals

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, fabafaba said:

What is the wall made off? Brick/concrete or wood and drywall?

The wall is hollow and made out of wood. The house is still under construction. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd drill a 60mm hole in the projector room side of the wall for something like this for your mouse and keyboard to plug wireless dongles or whatever else in

https://www.amazon.com/ineo-Grommet-Desk-Fit-Diameter-THC06-IV/dp/B07F2CB4JP/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1544964949&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=usb+hub+desk&psc=1

 

To get the USB cables for the grommet through the wall on the other side, as well as to have a passthrough for a displayport cable, use these

https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-2-Pack-Single-Brush/dp/B071X8RLJL/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1544965160&sr=8-3&keywords=cable+wall+passthrough

 

And I'd really reccomend using a displayport cable for the monitor. I don't know how long the cable will have to be, but HDMI likes to crap out beyond 5-6m while you can get 10-15m on DP.

PC: Screw day theme users, I guess ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

CPU: R9 3900X @ 4.375GHz All Core MoBo: ASRock X470 Taichi RAM: 2x16GB Mushkin Redline @ 3200MHz 16-18-18-36 GPU: GTX 1080TI FE @ 2088MHz Cooling: Single 60x360mm rad w/ Scythe Kaze Flex, dual 45x540mm external rads passive, Nickel Plexi EKWB blocks, Alphacool VPP755V3 + Watercool Heatkiller Tube 250, Aquacomputer Quadro Case: Inter-Tech 4U 4129-N PSU: Corsair RM1000x Storage: 1TB Samsung 980 M2 SSD, 1TB Seagate Barracuda  Q1 SSD Network: Mellanox ConnectX-3 10G

 

NAS & Proxmox:

CPU:  Epyc 7302 MoBo: Supermicro H11SSL-i RAM:  8x32GB @ 2666MHz Samsung Registered ECC  Cooling: Enermax Liqtech TR4 II 360 w/ Corsair ML120 Case: InterTech 4F28 PSU: Seasonic Focus PX-650 Storage: 8x6TB HGST + 2x1TB WD Blue SN570 + 2x16GB Intel Optane SSDs Network: Mellanox ConnectX-3 10G

 

ML-Compute Server:

CPU:  i5 10600K MoBo: MSI MPG Z490 Gaming Plus RAM: 4x8GB HyperX Fury @ 2133MHz8 GPU: Gainward GTX 1080TI Golden Sample Cooling: Single 30 Case: RackMax 2U 8-Bay Storage Case Storage: 512GB Patriot P300 + 4x2TB Seagate Ironwolf NAS Network: Intel Quad 1G

Laptop: Acer Travelmate B117 (absolutely low power, but 12h battery life :D)

Phone: Oneplus Nord

Peripherals:

Monitor: LG 34UC79G + 27GL63T Keyboard: KBDFans 65Rev2 Mouse: Logitech G603 Mousepad: Cheap-ass GMB Mouspad Headphones: AKG K7XX  Other stuff: Novation Launchpad MK2, Aune T1 USB DAC/Amp, Behringer UMC202HD + Audio Technica AT2020 Condenser Mic

Cameras:

DSLR: Canon EOS 600D (Magic Lantern OS) Action Cam: GoPro Hero 3 Silver

Mountainbike:

Frame: Banshee Legend MKIII Fork: Marzocchi 380 C2R2 Titanium Rear shock: Rock Shox Vivid Air/Coil (switched depending on how I feel) Wheels: Spank Spike Race 33 Tires: Maxxis Minion DHR2/DHF Brakes: Magura MT5 Calipers with Shimano XT Levers Deraileur: Shimano Zee, Casette reduced to 6 Speed Crankset: Truvativ Descendant + 38T FSA Chainring Wheight: 16.4kg w/o pedals

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

However you run it, ensure you use some large flexible conduit so you can replace the cable if it fails, technology changes, or you need another cable.

I fished m HDMI the same way as you did, we finished the ceiling in the basement, and a couple years later it just "stopped working".

Thankfully my projector can pass 4K wirelessly line of sight, so the HDMI wasn't needed anymore.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

If the house is still being built, you have several options.  Running cable now could be problematic depending on the disposition of the electrical inspector, so don't just throw in some wire without talking to your electrician first; they may have to rip it all out to pass rough-in.  So, you can:

1. Prep the wall yourself to be wired later.  This can be done by installing "mud rings" on the studs where you want the connections to be in the future; then run a pull string between the rings and tie it off well.  This will allow you to pull wire between the two rings once construction is complete.  Normal face plates can then be installed on the rings.  Or,

2. Work with the electrician to prep or wire the cabling for you.  There are several commercial products for wiring home theaters in new construction that have a number of different cables bundled together; they may already be familiar with a system that is perfect for you.  This is more expensive then doing it yourself, but it often works better and it becomes someone else's problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 12/16/2018 at 6:33 AM, SupaTech said:

Dear all, 

 

My new house is being built and I currently have a big dilemma. I have two rooms to myself and I am planning to have a projector in one room and connect it to my PC in an adjacent room. Here is a diagram: 

image.png.7da62824fadaca1cc0a2e837d0ea64a5.png

The projector is attached to the ceiling. 

I am planning to run an HDMI/Displayport cable from the Projector through the wall to the PC on the ground. Does anyone have any tips for how this can be done? 

Also, I will need to control the projector with mouse and keyboard as I am planning to game using the projector. Does anyone have any tips for how I can do this? Ideally, I would want a USB hub to connect a keyboard and mouse on the wall, but I am not sure whether this is possible or not. Alternately, I can have a wireless keyboard and mouse, but I am afraid of whether the connection will still be strong enough to still be sufficiently "linked" to the PC through a solid wall. 

 

Thank you so much in advance. 

image.png.f9acd8fff4825d6608df26c53549c755.png

 

Have him setup a wall outlet that has hdmi,ethernet,displayport, etc on it. Have one on the wall close to the projector then run a something to hide the wires if needed or if he is running stuff in the ceiling you an do that instead. Have another jack on the other side of the wall near your machine. Have him run the wires between the two.

 

Now you have a permanent connection point on this wall. Now you can plug/unplug devices in as needed directly to the wall jacks. I know ethernet might not be needed, but some of the nicer projectors can use the ethernet connection to access or mirror your screen etc. Hell I would have him toss a USB port or 2 on them lol. Then you could use a wireless mouse/kb without issue in there if you chose.

 

I would do something like this. For the 3 open slots I would get the inserts for USB, Ethernet, Audio (maybe... dport can carry audio)

 

https://www.amazon.com/MyCableMart-Wall-Plate-DisplayPort-Keystone/dp/B01M5EJF39/ref=sr_1_6?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1545162871&sr=1-6&keywords=display+port

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×