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grangervoldemort

Babyliss istubble battery replacement Ni-Mh

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Posted · Original PosterOP

I have a beard trimmer. OK it's not PC related but oh well.

It takes 2x H-AAA600B 2.4V min. 600mAh Ni-MH.

Those exact batteries are not available anywhere.

I did however find these which I'm guessing should work fine. I have no knowledge abut batteries so tell me if they won't work and why not: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aaa-rechargeable-battery-packs/6660374/

 

That pack has 3 wires. Quick Google search tells me one of those wires is for temperature sensing. Anyone know if that is correct or not and if not fill me in.

 

Anyone know what is inside that battery pack? Can I just open it up and two batteries come loose? Is there a metal connector on one end joining two ends with solder? Is there a chip on there that the third wire goes to?

I will need to remove the batteries and install them in my trimmer. Here is a link so you can see inside my exact beard trimmer (I have the same one, that video is not mine): https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aaa-rechargeable-battery-packs/6660374/

 


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8 minutes ago, grangervoldemort said:

-SNIP-

Those are just simply two AAA rechargeable NiMH cells joined together in series, third wire is probably for temp sensing as some charging for NIMH rely on temp to tell when the cells are full. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
Just now, W-L said:

Those are just simply two AAA rechargeable NiMH cells joined together in series, third wire is probably for temp sensing as some charging for NIMH rely on temp to tell when the cells are full. 

Yeah I got that. I know that. But what does it look like on the inside yo?

What is the 3rd wire connected to? 
I asked if there is a metal plate at the back of the batteries as there is in my beard trimmer or not. 

 

You repeated everything I wrote without answering anything....

 

Thanks.


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14 minutes ago, grangervoldemort said:

Yeah I got that. I know that. But what does it look like on the inside yo?

What is the 3rd wire connected to? 
I asked if there is a metal plate at the back of the batteries as there is in my beard trimmer or not. 

 

You repeated everything I wrote without answering anything....

 

Thanks.

Like I said the third wire is probably a temp sensor, thermistor for sensing when the batteries are full as it's a common way for charging NiMH batteries. The inside it no different than regular AAA cells with flat tops and bottoms. It doesn't matter how they are jointed as long as it has the same specs mainly battery technology and voltage.  Uusally they are soldered or spot welded tabs.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
26 minutes ago, W-L said:

Like I said the third wire is probably a temp sensor, thermistor for sensing when the batteries are full as it's a common way for charging NiMH batteries. The inside it no different than regular AAA cells with flat tops and bottoms. It doesn't matter how they are jointed as long as it has the same specs mainly battery technology and voltage.  Uusally they are soldered or spot welded tabs.

So the batteries don't have nipples?

What about my other questions in my first post?

Will this work? Look at the video to see inside my beard trimmer. It has NO temperature thing that I can see.

 

How can I get it off and put them on? There are individual 2x metal tabs on my old batteries and a single metal tab that runs across them on the other end.Watch the video to see.
I think soldering would cause battery rupture. Any ideas?


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1 minute ago, grangervoldemort said:

So the batteries don't have nipples?
What about my other questions in my first post?
Will this work? Look at the video to see inside my beard trimmer. It has NO temperature thing that I can see.

Yeah no point on the positive end as the flat end makes it easier to join cells togehter, similar to the one below. As for if it will work, it should just depends on how they designed the charging system if they don't use a temp sensor then it may just rely on voltage and wait until it hits a certain value to determine if it's full. There's no video.

Related image

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
2 hours ago, W-L said:

-SNIP-

My bad: 

How will I desolder the new batteries and the old ones too and then solder the new ones in place?


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17 minutes ago, grangervoldemort said:

My bad: 

How will I desolder the new batteries and the old ones too and then solder the new ones in place?

I can't even see how they are attached in that video, my best guess would be it's just soldered onto the PCB. Soldering is pretty straight forward, heat up the old joints to take out the bad battery and put in the new one ensuring the orientation is correct, and size is appropriate. May have to add some short lengths or wire and solder to connect everything to the new batteries. And of course leaving out the third wire if it doesn't require it. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
49 minutes ago, W-L said:

Snip

I got you bro. 

See. One end has metal INDIVIDUAL tabs as I wrote earlier and a single metal tab on the other. 

So what do I do?

 

Thank you. Love you

20190208_032040.jpg

20190208_032024.jpg


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2 minutes ago, grangervoldemort said:

I got you bro. 

See. One end has metal INDIVIDUAL tabs as I wrote earlier and a single metal tab on the other. 

So what do I do?

 

Thank you. Love you

Ah yes that helps greatly, It looks like the originals used spot welded tabs that then get soldered onto the PCB and just a strip on the other end. You shouldn't have too much difficulty replicating this by taking the new battery and leaving it as is. All you would need is to stripping back the two wire leads, one for positive and negative and soldering it onto the pads of the PCB respectively. No need to take apart the battery pack or anything. 

 

Also that device labeled NTC10 glued to the batteries is the temp sensor or thermistor that is used to monitor the temps. So you want to be careful when you take the old batteries out and to make sure to put a drop of hot glue or something to bond it back onto the new batteries so it can accurate monitor the battery. That will replace the thermistor line (3rd wire) from the new battery bundle.. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
On 2/8/2019 at 3:34 AM, W-L said:

Snip

I had no idea about that ntc10.

Great idea about not taking the battery apart... But that thermistor won't be able to function properly because of the plastic that shrouds the batteries on the new batteries that come as a battery pack surely? 

 

There's also another thing glued on the side of the other battery. Is that important to glue back? 

 

How am I going to glue any of these back? What I mean is the NTC10 looks like it has a dab of something that bonds it to the battery. Perhaps something heat conductive like thermal paste for CPU's?

 

Also the batteries seem to be stuck down to the PCB and I have no idea how.

 

What do I do with the third wire on the new battery pack? 

Where does that third wire go inside the new battery pack? Perhaps it's attached to a chip and some circuitry/PCB inside the pack? 

 

Took some more photos for you.

20190208_033707.jpg

20190208_033643.jpg


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8 minutes ago, grangervoldemort said:

-SNIP-

The plastic jacket will have a little effect but this isn't super high accuracy stuff since NIMH battery are quite forgiving as long as the sensor is touching the pack I wouldn't worry too much. They probably use some potting compound or epoxy that is common in electronics.

 

Some careful work with some side cutter should remove that adhesive to free the battery, afterwards once replaced and everything seems to be working you can hot glue everything including the temp sensor back in place. Hmm not completely sure what that larger white package is, looks almost like a resistor that is limiting the power in. 

 

For the third wire of the pack you would leave it out and not use it, inside the wrap is probably another thermisitor sensor similar to what is on the board there. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
13 minutes ago, W-L said:

Snip

If you look at my earlier link you will notice that the battery pack has a thick top bit from the wires and possibly the thermistor you speak of. Surely then, the battery pack won't fit into the trimmer in length without removal of the batteries?

 

So I can just glue the thermistor onto the battery, making sure the thermistor and the battery make contact with no hot glue between them? Or is it ok to have hot glue between them? Or do I need to go and buy this potting stuff you talk of. If I do then this fix wouldn't be worth it.

 

What do you mean side cutter? I think a stanley would be more appropriate? How do you think the batteries are stuck to the PCB and how do you think I need to remove them? From the photo it looks like they are stuck down with the same glue used for the other 2 things on the battery.

 

On the new battery pack there are 2 black wires. How will I know which is the temp wire and which is the power negative wire? I assume the batteries will come flat, aka not charged. 

 

I also added a photo of the belly if that helps. 


Today I am getting delivered my new MX Master 2s and Logitech wireless keyboard (MX900 combo). Excited :D

20190208_041038.jpg


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1 minute ago, grangervoldemort said:

-SNIP-

Try it first and see if there is enough space but if it's too tight then may was well just take off the outer wrap and make it easy for yourself to solder in the new connections and take off the thermistor that is in the pack.

 

Hot glue will suffice, as long as your have the sensor relatively close and touching the surface it won't have a problem, as said this isn't super sensitive stuff. 

 

Side cutter or flush trim cutter, knife will also work just to carefully cut and peel away the glue. for the batteries if they are glued down since they are no good anyways you could split the plastic wrap from the current battery to remove and then carefully peel it away any remaining plastic. 

Image result for flush cutter

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Posted · Original PosterOP
6 minutes ago, W-L said:

Snip

Thanks, I added a photo btw in my last reply. Take a look at it and see if it helps you with any new info you could give me.

 

I dont have those trimmers. I will just use a stanley blade which I will also use if I need to cut open the plastic on the old batteries to get them out.

I will first try to get the batteries out of the trimmer before ordering new ones. 

 

Please keep this thread open should I need help form you again and I will post updated photos and updates on how well it works and if it charges or not etc so it may help others with this trimmer. It's a popular trimmer.

 

You didn't answer:
On the new battery pack there are 2 black wires. How will I know which is the temp wire and which is the power negative wire? I assume the batteries will come flat, aka not charged. 


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4 minutes ago, grangervoldemort said:

-SNIP-

For the battery leads since you'll be opening up the outer wrapping it will be obvious which one goes where, a simple way can be to use a multimeter to see what gives you a ~2.4V. The battery should be charge usually around 70-80% unless they've sat around for a very long time. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
Just now, W-L said:

-SNIP-

But I may not be opening it right... if it fits.

Did that photo provide you with any new info?


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1 minute ago, grangervoldemort said:

But I may not be opening it right... if it fits.

Did that photo provide you with any new info?

I do see the two spots where the ends of the battery are soldered to the PCB, looks like the pads outlined in white near that large black connector. That should help you with de-soldering and taking out the batteries once the glue is loosened off. 

 

Try using a multimeter to determine which one is positive and negative on the battery terminals. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP

I don't have a hot glue gun. I thought the person I know has one, but that person doesn't anymore. What can I stick it with without having to spend money? If I have to spend anymore money than the batteries this won't be worth doing. I already replaced the trimmer with another but want to repair this to sell it (minus the blade which I will tell the buyer to buy from babyliss themselves for hygiene reasons). I HATE when asshole companies make it so you cannot easily replace the batteries so force you to buy another one. 

 

Just got the MX Master 2s and am thoroughly disappointed with it. 

It's heavy, bulky, while using the horizontal scroll I end up hitting the back button, DPI settings are non existent and the mouse sensitivity setting moves up in notches despite having a slider which is deceiving so very limited control over sensitivity. Left and right clicks are LOUD. Clicking down on the scroll wheel is almost impossible as it is so unstable so ends up going back or forward unlike my Logitech G5. 

The keyboard came damaged. I might get the G903 instead. This sucks. I was hoping the mouse would be amazing based on all the reviews I read (review websites) and saw (YouTube videos).


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1 hour ago, grangervoldemort said:

-SNIP-

Hot glue would be ideal, dollar store probably has hot glue guns for cheap still, but if you wanted you could probably get away with using some electrical tape to hold everything on and for it to press the thermistor onto the batteries. 

 

The MX mouses are nice but are very large, I would usually recommend them for ergonomic use more than anything else.

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Posted · Original PosterOP
1 minute ago, W-L said:

Snippity

but won't tape come off soon? The electrical tape glue tends to kind of melt, and the batteries will get warm from charging and use. 

I live in the UK. No dollars stores and the pound stores we have don't sell useful stuff like glue guns. 


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2 minutes ago, grangervoldemort said:

but won't tape come off soon? The electrical tape glue tends to kind of melt, and the batteries will get warm from charging and use. 

I live in the UK. No dollars stores and the pound stores we have don't sell useful stuff like glue guns. 

Pound store usually will have hot glue or adhesives or sorts. Electrical tape if stretched and applied won't come off but the adhesive will turn gummy overtime. You might be able to get away with gel type superglue, something with a high viscosity. 

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Posted · Original PosterOP

I've never seen a glue gun being sold in a pound store let alone being sold for one pound. I'll ask a guy up the street if he has one. Never seen gel type superglue. A link please? 

electric tape is horrible stuff. Once applied the adhesive kind of melts onto the surface it's on and spreads. Touch that and your hands become sticky. I hate electrical tape. Getting the melted adhesive off surfaces is very difficult without petrol. But petrol leaves residue.

 

I'm pretty sure electrical tape does come off pretty fast though... Electrical tape when applied to something that gets warm and the adhesive melts and dries, melts and dries over and over etc. 

 

how will I get the metal things that will be spot welded onto the new batteries off and how will I get the metal tabs already on the old batteries off once I've removed the solder? 

How do I remove solder with only a soldering iron and no special desolder stuff?

how do I then solder on the old metal tabs to the new batteries without damaging them? 


- Core i5 3570k
- GA-Z77X-D3H -- REV 1.0

- Samsung Green 8GB DDR3 C11 1600Mhz 30nm
- Gigabyte HD 7870 OC Windforce 3x 2GB

- Corsair TX 650W

 

- Asus Xonar D2X PCI-E

- TP-Link Wireless N Adapter TL-WDN4800
- Bluetooth Adapter - TRUST 17772

 

- OS Drive Crucial MX500 500GB

 

- Samsung BluRay ODD


Lian Li SATA power switch BZ-H06B
BitFenix Recon Internet-Connected Fan Controller
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1 hour ago, grangervoldemort said:

-SNIP-

You would't use the tabs or anything again, everything form the old batteries will be tossed, just cut the wire from the new battery pack and strip them back to solder it directly onto the pads of the PCB. Without desolder wick you won't be able to remove old solder easily. 

 

Gel type supergule is very common, here's just an example of one brand:

https://www.gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-super-glue-gel/

 

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Posted · Original PosterOP
5 hours ago, W-L said:

You would't use the tabs or anything again, everything form the old batteries will be tossed, just cut the wire from the new battery pack and strip them back to solder it directly onto the pads of the PCB. Without desolder wick you won't be able to remove old solder easily. 

 

Gel type supergule is very common, here's just an example of one brand:

https://www.gorillatough.com/product/gorilla-super-glue-gel/

 

to remove the metal tabs do I really need to remove the solder? Won't it be enough to remove the metal tabs by  cutting the tabs before the pcb but leaving a little leg to pull out later with pliers and heating the solder? 


- Core i5 3570k
- GA-Z77X-D3H -- REV 1.0

- Samsung Green 8GB DDR3 C11 1600Mhz 30nm
- Gigabyte HD 7870 OC Windforce 3x 2GB

- Corsair TX 650W

 

- Asus Xonar D2X PCI-E

- TP-Link Wireless N Adapter TL-WDN4800
- Bluetooth Adapter - TRUST 17772

 

- OS Drive Crucial MX500 500GB

 

- Samsung BluRay ODD


Lian Li SATA power switch BZ-H06B
BitFenix Recon Internet-Connected Fan Controller
Zalman CNPS9500AT with Zalman ZM-CS5B CNPS Clip Support

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