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  • Toms' rants about Esports and CS:GO
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  • † Tech Tips Christian Fellowship †
  • krishi's Blog
  • Where I post so I don't spam my statuses
  • Prastupok's Rants and Thoughts on life and computers.
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  • FloRolf's incredible Blog
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  • Help, Want to make my first Gaming PC
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  • A random PC thoughts blog
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Found 247 results

  1. For nearly 20 years now, we've been using that 20/24-pin power plug with a thick bundle of wires like it's just part of life, but as density becomes more relevant, cable management strategies for the current generation dictate that the ATX plug is OBSOLETE! It's bad enough that it lands in a 2-inch (50mm+) connector, but the thick, massive bundle of weak, low-power wires are too painful to configure, rearrange, or design for as it takes up increasingly precious space in all parts of the system. And all of that bulk for a mere EIGHT signals (or 9 depending on system design) to go from the PSU to the mainboard! Four of those eight are primary power; +12v, +5v, +3.3v, and Ground. Two others are +5VSB (Standby) and an oddly specific -12v. The remaining 2 signals are PS-ON and PWR-Good. ATX NEEDS TO DIE!!! Just short of redesigning existing boards entirely to use smaller, more compact connectors, I recommend a vertical right-angle adapter (or continuous vertical for larger systems) to re-route the 4 main power signals as converged rails on their own, singular wire(s) of a larger gauge. For example, the five +5v wires can be combined to run on a single line, reducing the wire count by x4. Accounting for national electrical safety standards, and the allotment of current to each voltage, here are the wire sizes that would be appropriate for each line: +3.3v: 12-10AWG (15-25 Amps) Copper, Aluminum, or CCA (copper-clad aluminum) +5v: 10AWG CCA <30 Amps / 12AWG Copper ~20 Amps +12v: 12AWG (10-20 Amps) Copper or CCA--- **EPS 12v Spec 2.92 states that common 12v connections should not exceed 240VA per rail** GND 10AWG (~30 Amps, current varies) Copper or CCA; 12AWG may be used at engineer's discretion. The remaining signals specified below shall remain 18AWG size, but should be fitted with their own, alternate connection in a smaller package to save board space and simplify a new wire harness design. -12v _ +5VSB _ PS/ON _ PS/GD I'm still working on how to re-fit the low-power and signal-only wires, but in the meantime, this is a prototype of what my idea would look like: As you can see, I've converted the old 24-pin ATX connection into a right-angle cable assembly/adapter and modified the layout by recombining the cluster of 19 power wires, grouped by color-coded voltage, into a converged set of rails which terminate inside a 4-prong Molex Multicat connector; 2018400040. Click to open the hidden comment above to know why I chose this connector and how I managed to use it. Great... I have a concept demonstration... Now what? Well... Several problems. First off, the connection via ATX is still too big! Second, with that added non-standard Multicat plug, I'll have to make another custom cable like this, and possibly an extension to go between the two, using the new connector (yes, Multicat is actually a new model by Molex ~2016-2018) all to showcase ATX pumping energy across 4x 12-10AWG wires for this grand idea I came up with! And third, with that awful ATX form being so widely adopted, this would be highly impractical for most end users, who likely don't have the high density or cable management problem that this is meant to solve! Okay, maybe end users could see some level of benefit if some conditions are met. For a regular consumer to need this, the situation would be sort of like this: - Add or replace components inside PC fairly often (more than once every 2 months) - Space limitations inside system for moving or accessing components -- Airflow problem due to bad cable design or bulky cabling - Motherboard shape, size, or layout will never change (this is a big one; I'm looking at you, Linus!) - Cable too long or too short (especially a problem with "modular" cables) - Just wishing your PSU could have been better thought out, and put the bulky stuff somewhere else With that in mind, this modification is really intended for servers, specifically 2U size like the one I have and am working on. **Side note, 1U is completely useless, 2U needs serious work in every aspect (most designs are HORRIBLY flawed), and 3U and larger are pretty much open-box assemblies that can be abused and re-worked like regular desktop cases. The thing is, servers aren't technically that different from regular computers, except for one important thing; density. Moreover, power cores in servers tend to be much more modular in a very literal sense-- so much to the point that any experienced technician (or serious power geek) could re-purpose a bar module like the DPS-450 or the 1K28P for almost anything quickly and easily, and make use of all the potential current specified by the nameplate capacity through a single massive blade surface. Something that you can't do with most ATX PSU's. That's why there are so many adapters for CRPS-based modules to use them for bitcoin mining and GPU mods. So what's the point? Modularity and density. You can't change the connector on the motherboard without an expensive redesign, but that's where this connector prototype comes in... - "but you said you need another one like this to connect to the power supply. where's the point in that?" This is where it gets interesting... Server power cores are more modular than you think. Based on pinouts of the ends of server power modules from several company designs and references from hobbyists who modded server modules, they aren't really proprietary, except in shape, and still follow enough of the ATX/EPS standard that they can be re-used in newer system designs, or accommodate other purposes. Technologically and financially, this makes sense for the developers and engineers since all they have to do to continue using a module from 10+ years ago (if it even physically fits, still*) for example, is modify parts of the design of the power distributor. Leave the important control circuity for monitoring and redundancy, but change the shape of the output! That's all a power distributor is; a redundancy component with a set of connectors to match the shape of those on the target board! After all, symmetrical cable assemblies are faster, cheaper, and easier to build than proprietary ones. Why do you think they stopped making as many systems as there used to be with proprietary power wiring? 2 reasons; ATX standards/compatibility, and cost savings. That's why. Therefore, it would be plenty reasonable to imagine a slight modification to power distributors, a relatively cheap part, to use fewer wires of a larger gauge for power delivery! The remaining signal wires can be small and cheap still, using a smaller connection for itself as well... Although I'm not sure I'd professionally use Multicat as my connector type for the PCB side or for singular individual wires across 12AWG for everything-- I'm honestly leaning towards Molex's MegaFit connector type for the final cable assembly design. MegaFit has a slightly more compact size and familiar square shape, but Multicat happens to have the advantage of being great for high-current lines and prototype cables like this one as the terminals are big enough to handle that hideous bundle of BLACK from the ground line; seriously, 8 wires for one rail??? WHY????? Even though these are all 18AWG wires, it was a pain in the A$$ squishing 8 of them together at once and getting them to fit properly in a terminal that was designed for 10-8AWG wires!!! I couldn't imagine making this prototype cable with MegaFit terminals, designed for a maximum of 12AWG... So, for the sake of this project, THANK YOU MULTICAT! **Don't worry MegaFit, you'll shine soon enough** Epilogue: I'm still trying to decide on a new shape for those last 4 signal wires, but I have 2 candidates so far for what I could use... Here's what I think would be best for the signals with very little energy: Connector option A: Molex CP 3.3 Wire-to-wire (useful for a cable harness, but not for board connection as no PCB header is available) - Parts 5046930402 & 5046940402 Connector option B: Molex SL Wire/Crimp connectors (prime choice for wire-to-board connection; parts available for wire harnesses and PCB headers) - Parts 50579404, 701070003, & 705430038 Leave a comment and vote for which of these parts would work best for the signal-only wires and why. Also let me know if you have other ideas for what part should be used to connect the last 4 signal wires. For reference, the signals can be connected with any wire size ranging from 22-16AWG, so if you think you can find something better than what I mentioned, go crazy!
  2. My power supply gets noisy when not touching the pc case but when you turn it on, it makes the sound again. is it nearing to the near end or is it very bad power supply. I had some problems when the voltage dropped and computer turned self off to prevent any damage from the power supply. is it time to put it to garbage? it doesn't shut off when underload or when gaming for few hours, just makes this annoying noise. Should i avoid these power supply's. and what power supply i should buy next to have enough power for future upgrades and graphics cards? i attached a picture of the power supply
  3. I purchased an Antec mini itx case that came with a 90 watt power supply. There is a board in the case with a 20 pin to 24 pin jumper, as well as a cpu power connector, a couple of sata power connectors, and a molex. I'm running a Ryzen 5 3400g on an aorus b450 pro wifi, no discreet graphics card. I cannot get it to turn on. I brought it down to the bare minimum, cpu, noctua low profile cooler, 500gb m.2, and one stick of corsair vengeance 8gb 3000mhz. It will not boot. Can I just plug in a higher wattage power supply, or do I need to change out the board inside to accept a higher wattage?
  4. Hey guys just need some quick help on which psu i should get. i am building my little brother a PC that has a I7-8700K and a GTX 1080Ti - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WDLTGC1/ref=dp_cerb_2?th=1 - https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-SSR-850FX-Modular-Warranty-Compact/dp/B073H3ZZQZ/ref=sr_1_13?crid=2TSLO9TFFZUTI&keywords=evga%2Bpower%2Bsupply&qid=1574465926&sprefix=evga%2Bpow%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-13&th=1 thanks again for the help !
  5. From the office I could take four old workstations with me. These are the HP Z400 workstations. I have expanded the largest RAM sticks out of three workstations, then packed them all into one. Windows packed onto a SSD and boom, I had a great computer. Now I wanted to install a stronger GPU, a RX 580. but this requires more electricity. an 8-pin connector and no 6-pin, as with the HP power supply. That's why I bought a new ATX power supply. But after I realized that the pinout is different at HP (for reasons I do not want to understand), I had to tinker the whole thing. Now I get instead of 4 "Beeps" Diagnostic LED Codes, 5 "Beeps". According to the website, https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c03599666, I have to check the RAM. After I have tried out all the combinations, everything except for one stick, two sticks, another line of the Rhine. I doesn't start. Can someone help me there?
  6. Hello! As the title says, I am looking for a 600W PSU under 50USD. I don't want to get a used one from Ebay, so Amazon is the only choice. I looked and found this PSU: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014W3EMAO/ref=twister_B07RBCD515?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Is this a good choice?
  7. Good Day Forum. I had a gaming PC built on the 27 January 2019 and as of a few days ago my EVGA Power Supply has been making a sound that was not present before.I've included below a link to a video I took this morning and uploaded to YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0q6tZ7a7r8&t=10s RMA'ing it is not a option though as I live outside the US and only got 1 month warranty from the business I purchased my custom system. Please advise on if this sound is cause for concern or if I should get accustomed to it. Thanks,Chris
  8. Just last week my +10 y/o Zalman ZM750-HP failed. The PC restarted after I loaded a game and BIOS presented a power surge notice on boot. The system loaded back into windows, into the game menu, then shutdown - this time there was no power, and no turning it back on. I replaced the PSU with an EVGA Sn 850-G3 and noticed immediate system stability improvement. Here's what changed: USB power Output: Wireless Headset charge and battery life improvement - I was hating on the Corsair Void wireless RGB battery life (it's still not amazing but much better than it was) CPU/RAM/GPU Stability: Discord voice stutter when CPU under load, games minimizing at random or interval timings (more so when certain launchers were open at the same time), game freeze (seconds) from time to time, Video Editing software crashes - ALL GONE General software stability improvement - system more responsive PSU stability: This system would restart on first shutdown, no longer have this issue. To knowledgeable folks these symptoms might be obvious signs, however, myself, never having a failing PSU had no idea. I always thought software conflict was causing my system issues and after seeing these changes I searched online to see if anyone had shared the same. In the results I found symptoms described more severe or telling of power issues and so wanted to share what I consider are more discrete symptoms of failing PSU. Of course if you have these symptoms of similar, they might not be caused by your PSU. But keep in mind while troubleshooting especially if yours is pushing it's life expectancy.
  9. Hey guys , iam looking forward to buying a new power supply for my system my system is : Core i5 9400F Asus Rog strix RTX 2060 16 GB Ram and there are two power supplies for this category available for me in my region Seasonic S12ii 520W Power Supply (Dual 12V Rails) Gigabyte P650B 650W Power Supply (Single 12v Rail) So which one is better ? they are at the same price , also if 520W is not sufficient for this system The Seasonic 620W Model is available for my budget So what's your opinion ? Thanks,
  10. Currently, I've been using iBall Nirantar UPS-621V 600VA for 2 years and it works just fine. My current rig is: CPU: Intel Core i3 6100 GPU: GTX 1060 3GB RAM: Crucial 8GB DDR4 2133MHz PSU: Corsair VS Series VS450 - 450 Watt Motherboard: MSI H110M Pro-VH Socket LGA 1151 In future, I'm going to upgrade to Ryzen 3700x (won't be overclocking it) with RTX 2070 and Corsair's VS550 PSU. (not sure about motherboard yet) so is my current UPS good enough for the upgrade or does it have to be upgraded too in order to avoid sudden power outage otherwise it'd defeat the purpose of having a UPS in the first place. Or will it not turn my computer on at all?
  11. Alright, geniuses (being sincere, not sarcastic, because I LOVE this site and everyone on it) I am backed against a wall. As much as I have learned the last 7 years or so, I've never heard of this issue before. I'll try to keep this short. -I built a PC in 2014 with a Corsair CX750M PSU inside it. -A few weeks ago, it would buzz sometimes, sometimes sounding grindy, sometimes just a minor buzz, but would stop with a little slap. -Did reading online, found out the fan is likely bad and should replace the entire thing, as I'm not comfortable trying to open a PSU -Bought a brand new EVGA 750 GQ from Amazon -Hooked it up, nothing. Not even a fan spinning -Tried disconnecting and reconnecting all cables, nothing -Tried connecting ONLY the 24 pin from my old PSU, and it lit up and fans spun -Tried connecting ONLY 24 pin from new PSU, fans spin and lights turn on -As soon as I connect ANYTHING else to the new PSU, it won't turn on at all -Tried connecting just one of four other 6/8 pin cables, and pushing the power button will have the PSU make a very brief noise, like putting a lit match in water (Tsss) -Old PSU fully connected, nothing is wrong at all. Do I replace the new PSU?
  12. Hi, first time posting here and not a native speaker, I hope I'm doing everything right. This is my problem: Three days ago when I turned on my computer that I built almost 4 years ago (never had any problems) it shut off and it smelled like burnt plastic. I disassembled everything and found the source of the smell to come from the power supply (Corsair RM550) so I ordered a new one (Seasonic M12II-520 Evo). It arrived yesterday so I connected back all the cables to the new power supply, tried to turn it back on but it still wasn't working, the fans spun for maybe a second and then it would shut off. I tried disconnecting all the unnecessary parts such as the graphics card and left the bare minumum but nothing changed. Fast forward to today: I double checked all the cables and connections and tried once again turning it on. I see smoke coming from the disks so I immediately turn off the power supply and disconnect the cables. From the image below you can see that the SSD power connector (the one on top) is a bit molten while the HDD (the one on the bottom) was mostly ok, just a little molten plastic that I removed. The other HDD I had in my system doesn't look damaged. So my questions are: What is causing the issue? My first idea was the power cable connecting the disks to the power supply since I didn't replace it with the new ones that came with the new power supply. Can I recover the data from the disks? There isn't anything really important in them but the SSD was my primary driver with the OS and some files I'd like to recover if possible (music library, photos, save files). If it's useful to know I live in Italy. If you need any more informations/photos feel free to ask. Any help is greatly appreciated!
  13. Okay, so today I bought a Logitech F710 gamepad (wireless) and it came with a usb nanoreceiver. I tested it out and it works great, however I have a question. My pc keeps supplying power to the usb ports when it's shut down (I haven't found a way to disable this) and I want to know - should I leave my nanoreceiver plugged in when the computer's turned off? Could the constant power supplied by the usb ports damage the nanoreceiver in any way?
  14. I'm currently in the process of upgrading a 2012 custom build. The specs are: Intel Core i3-2120 CPU Gigabyte GA-H61M-DS2 Motherboard 8GB Ram 2 x 7200 RPM Hard drives (500GB, 2TB) Cooler Master eXtreme Power Plus 500W Power Supply Antec Three Hundred Case (2 fans) Sapphire Radeon HD 7770 Graphics Card I bought an EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB SSC to replace the Sapphire Radeon 7770. However, I found that my power supply did not have enough connectors for the graphics card. The card requires 2 6-pin connectors, but the Cooler Master PSU only has one 6-pin connector which was enough for the Sapphire but not the 1060. After searching I found this Seasonic G Series 650 80+ Gold (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00918N4A0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1). Would this be enough to power the system and have the appropriate connectors needed for the system? Thanks in advance.
  15. I need relaibility at low noise levels in this price range... BitFenix Whisper M 550W Gold (BP-WG550UMAG-9FM) $110 EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3 550W Gold (220-G3-0550) $110 Antec Earthwatts Pro EA550G 550W Gold (0-761345-11614-5) $95 Seasonic M12II-520 EVO 520W Bronze (SS-520GM2) $87 Which is the best deal? Is any of these a bad choice?
  16. Asus X99 Deluxe 2 Corsair Ax860i Intel 6900k @ 4.2 Ever since ive had this configuration, and it has never not been this, I get random "one-click" shut downs and restarts. I looked up the issue and found it was a pretty common problem with my power supply. Tonight however, it did a one click shut off but did not restart. It turns out that now if I click the power button, it stays on for about 1 second, the CPU LED cuts on, then shuts off abruptly. I have reason to believe it is my power supply, but I have also seen the same problem with the board online where it only stays on for 1 second, also with a 6900k. I don't have the resources to test the CPU and Motherboard myself, but I do with the power supply. My computer configuration calls for at least 800 watts. I have a 650 watt power supply currently on hand. Not sure if this is a dumb question or not, but could I still test with the 650 watt to post and/or to windows lock screen safely? My reasoning is that is shouldn't be using 800 watts of power in the BIOS or windows lock screen just yet. Is that Ok?
  17. So, i have a fujifilm S3280, it takes 4 AA batteries and i would like to connect it to the mains, it doesnt have a normal socket to input power, but it does have the little flap in the battery compartment for display power(for display in a store), where would i be able to get one of these store display adapters?
  18. Hey, I am building a pc and in need of a PSU. My motherboard(ASRock Z97 Anniversary ATX LGA1150) needs a 8-pin connector, my GPU (GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 970 4GB G1 GAMING OC EDITION) also need an 8-pin connector. If someone can point me in the direction of a PSU that has 2x 8-pin, 1x 6-pin and is a minimum of 450W please tell me. Thanks.
  19. Hey guys, so I just recently had this problem of my desktop turning off a split second after pressing the power button (have confirmed that there's not short on the power button) which happens occasionally. I have tried reseating every component on the motherboard, resetting the CMOS, using the default settings in the motherboard BIOS and no bad capacitors on the motherboard but the problem still persists. I have done the paper clip test on my PSU but it checks out fine. It seems to work fine when I remove the graphics card but when I reseat in while the computer is turned on, it shuts down immediately. Can a graphics card cause this? Or is there like a power delivery problem of some sort going on with my motherboard? Lastly, can it mean a problem with my PSU (using correct voltage BTW) even though it checks out fine with the paper clip test? I have no spare parts to do trouble shooting so I'm kinda lost lol PC Specs: CPU: i5-4460 MOBO: Asus H81M-D MEMORY: 8GB X 2 Kingston HyperX DDR3 1866Mhz GPU: Zotac GTX 1050 Ti OC PSU: Cougar SL500 STORAGE: SanDisk Plus 240GB SSD Seagate 1TB 7200RPM HDD
  20. So I was doing a Christmas Eve Live stream over on my twitch channel and everything was going great. Playing GRW, streaming, and recording locally without a probably. Then seemingly at random, my dual screen config goes black, my led lights on my mouse and keyboard freeze mid cycle, and I hear my system fans power off. After attempting to turn the system back on, (even after resetting the PSU switch) the system would never power on again. My GPU light indicator would turn on, and the same with my peripherals, but the pc wouldn’t boot. Finally, I tested one piece at a time on another platform and every single piece verified good except the PSU. TL;DR, I need a new power supply. Specs below: Ryzen 1700 @3.5 Asus GTX 1060 6GB @Stock 16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX @2667 Gigabyte AB350M Gaming 3 Mobo 120GB Kingston SSD 2tb WD Black HDD I have a soft cap of $80, but if it is necessary I can push it a little bit. Thanks!
  21. Hi guys, I have an EVGA SuperNova G2 750W power supply. I'm currently running an ATX board with an i7-6700K, a GTX 970 and an AMD 7950. I want to install a 3rd GPU (Another 7950 for mining reasons), but am unsure if my PSU can handle it. Using a power meter, I am measuring that my entire PC draws around 470W from the wall, while both GPUs are mining (One is overclocked) and the CPU is not very busy, but overclocked (Chrome with 30 tabs and some background apps don't seem to affect it much). According to JonnyGuru's Review here, this PSU is around ~89-90% efficient around this consumption level, so the power actually being used by my components should be around 418-420W. Am I understanding this correctly? So what is the 750W rating for? How much it can draw from the wall or how much the components are capable of consuming, in which case it would draw more than 750W from the wall at max consumption. In theory, this PSU should be able to provide at least another 280W, so another GPU using around 200-220W should be no problem, right? Is it a good idea though, to keep the usage that high for extended periods of time? The PSU seems to be quite good quality after all (According to JonnyGuru's Review) Finally, my PSU has slots for 4 VGA cables as shown in this image. Other PSU makers, like Corsair, typically have each VGA cable split into 2 connectors like this image, but mine are direct 8 to 6+2 pins like this image. How would I wire up 3 GPUs if each requires 2 connectors (Either 2x6pin or 8pin + 6pin)? Can I just buy cables which split up at the end? Or are the stock cables not split up like this because the PSU can't handle it? EDIT: The 3rd card which I want to add is a dual 6-pin card, it has no 8-pins so it should be fairly modest in power consumption. Thanks
  22. hello, I have a gtx 1060 3gb and a fx 8350 but not in my pc. I currently only have a 350 watt power supply. I ordered a 450 watt one but it will not get here till friday. Could I put the 8350 and the 1060 in the computer and it would work? I know I would not be getting full power but would it even work? Thanks, Dylan
  23. Hello, I have a gigabyte GA-78lmt-usb3 mother board, a fx 8350 and a gtx 1060. I am upgrading to a 450 watt power supply. Will this one work? https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Warranty-Tester-100-B1-0450-K1/dp/B01F5LX55K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1507736746&sr=8-3&keywords=450+watt+power+supply Thanks, Dylan
  24. Hi i just have a quick question on power supply voltages, it's just out of interest. In the picture i've attached i know the formula is (watts = volts x amps). For the +12V Rail in the picture doing volts x amps gives you the correct number. (+12V rail, 83.3 x 12 = 1000w (ruffly, 999.6w to be precise)) But when you get to the 3.3v and 5v rail the wattage is combined. How is this number calculated because doing (3.3 x 25 = 82.5) + (5 x 25 = 125) = 207.5, this can't be correct since it shows 150W. So my question is, how is this number (150W) calculated?
  25. So im gonna build a new pc in one of the coming months and is looking at what i Will be able to take from my current pc to the new one like my hard drive and ssd and was wondering if taking my psu over to my new system would be bad in any way? like would buying a new psu give me any performance increase over just keeping the one i have? you can see the psu i have on the Picture
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