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  1. Hey guys so recently I upgraded my gaming pc to an AMD 5600x and a RTX 3070. I have an old Alienware Pre-built that I want to take the Core i7 8700 and GTX 1660 super out of and do a small form factor build for my basement. Problem is that I have no knowledge about Intel motherboards and processors as my research for my current main build was really only AMD focused. What do you guys think the best ITX mobo for the 8700 would be. I really only wanna spend between $150-$250 for the mobo so I'm not asking for any top of the line stuff. Any advice would be greatly appreciated because again, I don't know a whole lot about intel motherboards. This is the build so far: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Genericbot1/saved/k39gBm
  2. Budget (including currency): $700 usd Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: office work, loading images, office server connections. Other details: I work in an orthopedic office. Lots of dust particles in the air from casting and cutting. So I want to make a standard build for our exam rooms. Can be either intel or ryzen. The goal is for a small form factor pc that I can attach to the backs of the monitors VESA. passive cooling (not one fan) and to budget around $700. A 4-6 core around 65w cpu, with 16gb ram os an upgrade from the all in ones we have now. But finding a combo to fit those needs has been tricky and I can use some help. I was looking at the ryzen 4600g. And found a case that allows to be hooked up to a Vesa. But I couldn’t find a passive cooler that would fit for the cpu in that case.
  3. Budget (including currency): < $1k-*ish* Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Streaming games(the following and ACNH), Rainbow Six Siege, Apex, LoL, high refresh-rate gaming Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Hello everybody! So I have a computer with still pretty decent parts for a computer thats a few years old, and to try to minimize the cost, I'd like to try to reuse some of the parts I have, but I'm not against the idea of swapping a lot of parts! My current build (apologize for the lack of branding, ngl I don't know what all of the brands are): CPU: i7-7700K Cooler: Coolermaster AIO 240 or 280mm Motherboard: absolutely no clue but its an ATX RAM: ??? DDR4 32gb 3200 Mhz Storage: Two 500gb SSD's with a 1TB HDD GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1080 PSU: No clue but I know its a 550W 80+ Bronze certified one Currently running a 27" Acer monitor at 2K 144Hz, but I do plan on either getting another monitor, or getting 2 new monitors in my one's stead. I also anticipate getting an external streaming device, like the elgato HD60S, or HD60 Pro if it can fit into a small form factor build. (I don't have my computer since I'm in the process of moving, and my moving company has my computer with them at the moment. Once I figure out the specific components, I will be sure to revise or update this post!) I've been looking at the Velkase 5, Ncase M1, and Dancase A4 as cases that I'd like because of their small form factor. Those are the only cases that I've seen that have the capability of fitting full size GPU's while keeping a very small case size. Although those cases aren't easy to get right now, I'm anticipating the Velkase 5 which will sell in June. I KNOW I will have to get a new motherboard, but I've been watching a lot of videos lately that anticipate a new chipset that will be better than the current chipsets on the market, but I haven't been "in the know" in the computer world for a few years. With that new chipset release, I'm sure I will probably want to get a new CPU because of the new chipset, or just better CPU's released since the 7700k. That being said, I'm prepared to get a new cooler based on the CPU or case size change as well. I also know, that I would probably need to get a new PSU for certain cases, specifically the Velkase 5, but I have not clue where to start. All in all, I just don't know what CPU/Motherboard combo would be good in a mini-ITX or similar form factor for this kind of build. Really, I'd just like to keep my GPU unless it'd be better for me to upgrade, but I think the 1080 still holds very fairly in most of todays games. I have some experience in computer building, nothing crazy, but I can definitely "Lego" and maneuver pieces where they need to be if the build is extremely tight. I move around quite a lot, and a smaller computer that is still very capable would make moving around quite a bit easier. Please help!~
  4. Introduction Scratch built case specifications: 7.23L excluding raised sidepanels 8.97L including raised sidepanels 100% anodized CNC milled aluminum structure - main structure will be entirely 12mm panels - inside structure will be 3mm panels 2x 4mm thick tinted tempered glass panels Entirely assembled with metric countersunk- and metric thumb-screws Hardware specifications: Custom modded Asus X470-i motherboard AMD Ryzen 7 2700x CPU 2X8GB of 3GHz G.Skill TridentZ RGB Gigabyte GTX 1070 MINI ITX OC 8GB Samsung 512GB 950 PRO M.2 NVME SSD 450W G-unique Archdaemon + unlimited brick combo as power supply Watercooling loop: Alphacool Eisbaer LT solo Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 triple 80mm X-Flow Radiator (3x) Noiseblocker NB-BlacksilentPRO PCP 4-pin PWM 80x15mm fans Exclusively low profile koolance fittings Koolance QD3 quick disconnect fitting for filling, topping off, and draining Worry not, for the build log will soon begin! Thanks to Josh of NFC for lending me his beautiful skyslot design for this project!
  5. Did someone say bad ideas? because someone should have when i started the plans for this thing... just over 2 years ago i built "NOX", my bedside media center pc. it's since then seen an SSD upgrade, windows 10, and some minor tweaks. now... about a month or so ago i decided that NOX had some shortcomings, and while the RGB was a funny joke it sort of grew old. based on these shortcomings, and the ultimate bad idea of custom pc stuff, i set to work on NOXv2. the mindblowing spec list: - asrock QQ1900M (motherboard with soldered celeron from 2013) - 8GB RAM i had laying around - fanless MSI GT1030 - kingston A400 120GB SSD - BeQuiet pure power 10 - 300W - a fully custom case that's basicly a black box. - some special sauce The idea: the concept i am going for is a truly minimalist computer, both in design and use. along the way i had the absolutely ridiculous idea to implement a system with "cartridges" (smart cards with i2c memory) to launch and close programs, much like the concept of olden day consoles. i'm starting out this thread with a proof of concept build, at least proving that my absolutely RIDICULOUS idea will work: deciding required volume, getting the panels made, test-fitting, a rough "draft" of the back panel, and some inside shots. also, surprisingly, the airlfow setup in this box actually works: the psu fan is the only fan of the system, exhausting trough the vent of the power supply, pulling air in past the cpu heatsink, all the way around the GPU, trough the MSI logo in the GPU's bracket. This magically keeps the box cool enough, and is barely audible even in a quiet room. The software: if you made it all the way here, congrats. if you hadnt noticed already, i've planned to fudge some software together to make the cartridge idea work. the first idea was to hook the card reader (arduino micro) into the on-board serial port, but that fell trough pretty fast, so the current "proof of concept" is just using the USB serial port. the general idea of the cartridge system is as follows: each card has 256 bytes of storage, and contains two commands: byte 0 to 128: the "start command" to be executed when the card is inserted byte 128 to 256: the "exit command" to be executed when the card is removed the idea is that the "start command" starts up a specific game, where possible with a specific savegame, and the "exit command" gets you back to the desktop after removing the card. i've been debating to switch that to something that doesnt require software on the computer's end, using the arduino's "hello i'm a keyboard" options. some other things i want to change are its current dependency on a modified library to work with the 256byte cards i'm using, and the currently hardcoded locations for the two commands. either way, as it stands, the arduino code for the reader, in the mess that it is in at the moment: besides the arduino code, i'm planning on using some off the shelf options for vareous functions: - chatty for twitch streams (the cpu absolutely hates the twitch website, for reasons i havent quite figured out) - steam for games, obviously - retroarch for all emulator stuff - kodi for all media center stuff - maybe some windows 10 apps, perhaps? The To-Do list: - finish the cutouts on the back panel, so that usb devices actually fit. - decide on a place for the card reader to go (ideas are welcome..) - glue together the panels of the case that dont need to go apart - actually put a power button on the system - finish the card reader software (arduino stuff) - figure out how to best make the card reader interface with the system - possibly reducing some of the cable bulk on the power supply
  6. I was thinking about how nice it would be to have a motherboard that is designed to use riser cables for EVERYTHING to give you full freedom of design/layout for custom cases. The MOBO could also then be made as small as possible because you no longer have to worry about space claims for components. Has anybody seen something like this? Risers you would need: PCIE - easy to find CPU - haven't found any. Do these exist? Should be theoretically possible. Dummy CPU chip goes into the socket, pins go to wires then and you have a second CPU socket on the other end. This could cause latency issues, but for each foot of length you're only adding 0.91 nanoseconds. RAM - haven't found any here either? Do these exist? Should also be theoretically possible. Again with the minor latency issue.
  7. Ok so i have been planing this build for over a year and waiting for the parts to become available and after so long it is finally done. My initial idea was to build the fasted pc possible in the smallest amount of space so a ps1 was chosen as it is only 2.1645 litres and i wanted a challenge. i seen that the asrock desk mini could support a gtx 1080 and foung out how small the mother bored was. it was then that it was decided that i would use this as the base Specs Case: it should be obvious by the title a PS1 Processor: intel 8th Gen Core i7-8700K Processor Motherboard: Asrock Z370M-STX MXM Graphics card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 (8GB GDDR5X) MXM card Ram: 32 GB G.SKILL Ripjaws DDR4 Laptop Memory (only 16gb used see below why) Storage: Intel 760p 1TB M.2 PCIe NVMe SSD/Solid State Drive water cooling loop Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 40mm Triple radiator 3x Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX ( 40x40x10mm ) Alphacool NexXxos GPX Pro Solo with backplate - black tubing PUR 8/6mm (1/4"ID) clear 8/6mm (6x1mm) barb fitting G1/4 thermal grizzly conductonaut (it needs it) acrylic spray (reading the instruction it mentions not to be sold to the public and to be used by professionals witch i'm not) miscellaneous stuff bought switches led mother bored standoffs Crimp pin connectors latch connectors The build This was a time consuming project took be about 2 and a half months to complete (it was done is my spare time and i was on holiday for two weeks) and frustrating as the is next to no room when building inside of something so small. Ps1 prep I stated of buy removing the inner workings of the play station witch to my surprise the ps1 i bought was chipped and giving the case a clean as this console has been sitting in the back of a store for a long time after that came the fun part using a dremel to remove all of the bumps, screw holes and divider plate to make room for the mother board and space for the rear io. then making some holes for the mother board stand offs I used hot glue to connect the switch and led to the case so the power and reset buttons work and the led turn on like the original ps1. I also use hot glue to connect the latch switch to allow the lid to open and close I was not able to use the original button to do this as the radiator it in the way Mother board prep and why only 16GB of ram So as i am using liquid metal in this build i need to protect my components with an acrylic spray it easy to use just spray on to a cotton swam and start covering every thing around what you are about to liquid metal. found out this can take a lot of time so i went with the easier method and just sprayed it on making sure i covered the cpu and gpu chips but i forgot to cover the ram so after it hardened and i went to post the PC it failed to boot turns out the first ram socket i cover some of the pins preventing contact as the cpu still recognises that it is there but cant store properly it get stuck in a post loop. i have tried to remove the acrylic but to no success i spent nearly a week under a black light with sand paper to remove the acrylic but to no success so i left the second stick out Water cooling loop build so i turns out that the gpu block o bough does not fit on the mxm card as the mounting hole are to close on the card but i did notice that the screws that hold the cooling plate to the plastic housing match up with the holes on the gpu so i got some long bolts and the dried through the hole for the screw in the plastic housing fed the bold through the top of the plastic housing then the cooling plate and finally onto the gpu making sure to bolt the block back together tightly as space is limited in a ps1 i decided to skip having a reservoir it is possible but not required as filling the loop requires submerging parts water a letting it run until no air is left i done this by filling a bucket with deionized water at puting the radiator and pipe in then taking a bottle of deionized water and connecting it to the end of the pipe and squeezing the water through the loop then once all the air bubbles where out disconnecting the bottle and connecting the pipe to the radiator under water The Finished Product It runs just like any other PC it is a bit on the hotter side having idle temps of about 50c at idle i have not yet done a stress test on it to see if it will throttle but will update later with the results I could probably have done better a cutting the holes maybe next time and i cant find the panel for the parallel port might have to print one will link more photos at after bench marking with the case apart Edited to correct spelling mistakes and to include new photos below and performance info Performance Under full synthetic load the pc thermal cut out due to over heating but can still manage to keep it temps below 50C when under light load and should be fine whilst gaming one other thing i noticed when benching is that it is a lot quieter than i expected tested it with my phones db meter and it was at about 22 db a meter away and up close reaching 33 in front and near 60 db right next to the fans but I believe this was manly due to the air being blown into the mic
  8. I am looking at trying to build a new gaming pc since I can't install a Vive wireless WiGig card on my current laptop. I want this build to be mini ITX, but mini ITX only has 1 PCIe slot and the WiGig card uses another PCIe 1x slot. My current plan is to adapt an M.2 slot into a 4x PCIe slot for the WiGig card. However, I was wondering if I could somehow adapt the M.2 port into 4 PCIe 1x slots so I can use use the other 3 PCIe lanes for more USB ports. Is this even possible?
  9. i saw this video today and i though you know this would make a great project for a small form factor phase change cooler. you should check this out. i think it would be fun
  10. Well im currently working on a custom case build thats hopefully going to be finished in 2 weeks. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/20740327/DSC_0029.JPG I will do a detailed build log with a video when its finished. I will post the link here so if your interested just subscribe here.
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