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Budget (including currency): 8500,00 € complete PC (250,00 € for ARGB Controller) Country: Germany Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Heavy Photo Editing (High Megapixel Panoramic Photos > 450 MPx), AAA-Gaming in 5120x1440p, 3d Rendering Other details: none Hi guys, I`m new to the forum. Since I was 11 (I`m 23 now btw) I've build every computer myself. I was not really a big fan of this whole RGB thing, therefore I do not know much about it and how it's all connected. This has changed since I saw a couple of builds I really liked.
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I think, this might belong here: Some time ago, I fell in love with the look of Nixie tubes. Nixie tubes are the kind of display which was used before 7-segment-displays came into market, so until maybe 1980ish or something. For futher information, go to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nixie_tube Since I love the aesthetics of these nixie tubes, I wanted them in a Computer for displaying CPU temperature and load, GPU temperature and load, RAM load and Graphic Memory Load. The general idea was to build something, that could have belonged in an old russian power plant, or something that
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Hi all, Simple question: Is the 10900X soldered? I delidded my 7800x, which used thermal paste, and the temps came down dramatically. But my 10900X, same loop, is running in the 80's. Done a little voltage offset to bring it down, but i'm not sure i want them that high in the first place. Any genuine answers are appreciated.
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Recently got a few rads (copper fins/brass tubes) that had been used with distilled water (and only distilled water) briefly and then were poured out and left sitting around for a long time (maybe a year total). They all have this white residue near the fittings- in the rad in the pictures I've attached, clear tubing had been left attached the entire year, and the whole tube has the same kinda white looking residue all along the remaining tubing. I got in there with a cotton swab and scraped at it, and the swab came out brown, so the residue makes the tubing
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Started building this computer at the beginning of quarantine, modified it heavily to play with air-cooled components and give it its own character, including adding top and side panel exhaust fans. Ive been collecting parts to eventually water cool it, and realized I was running out of time before the components were completely last gen, so I went for it and water-cooled it last week. I ended up trying to replace the chipset fan and integrate it into the loop, which looks awesome, but I think is pointless, as the entire system heat soaks to 75 degrees and the loop starts heating
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I own a 60W C02 Laser from China. As the technology increases we see more of this technology becoming more affordable and widely available, like GlowForge. I know your team has some machinist and maybe they would love this idea. Im looking for alternative routes to keep my laser cool. It is already liquid cooled as most are, however, it is archaic tech. Most use "water chillers" some use a bucket with distilled water and freeze packs. I think maybe since water cooling PCs are hit or miss, maybe the gaming community can use PC parts on an industrial laser to keep it water cooled to spec.
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So for context I've got a 360 radiator up top and at the front of my case, a Phanteks D140 universal distro plate at the back which is that upside down L shape, a tall res/pump combo from EK and CPU/GPU blocks as standard. First ever fully water cooled PC build was wondering if there are any tips and tricks to getting cooler runs or if there are any errors in my planned loop. Thanks guys! And thank you AMD and NVIDIA for pushing the boundaries and making my aging PC completely obsolete! (made explaining to the wife a lot easier you see) Edit: First thing I've noticed myse
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So I mounted a water block on my reference vega 64 because I was tired of hearing a blower card all the time. I know this is a problem for a lot of vega owners, especially those who water cool. When I look I my "GPU temperature" they have improved greatly, but the hotspot temperature has gotten much worse. I wondering if any of you have ran into the same issue. I will try taking the block off and on again and remounting with a bit more thermal paste. Does anyone have any more tips for this? My loop keeps getting heat soaked because of this and then my cpu overheats and it's just a mess. Temper
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Budget (including currency): Possibly $5k Country: Australia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: all i want is 4k red dead. starting my first hardline build. Previously done soft tubing in the corsair 570x. This build is hopefully going to be the epitome of builds (on a personal level) i9 10900kf Asus Maximus Hero z490 32GB G.skill trident z gold 3600Mhz RTX 2070 super until ampere comes out then will get the 3080 ti (if its called that) ek rads. PE and SE both 360mm corsair Ll120 fans, satin black tubing, gold fitt
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I've got my 8700k overclocked to 4.9Ghz at 1.28v on an Asus Prime Z370-a, I'm using a hydro x loop, just cpu, with 1 240mm rad and 1 50mm 360mm rad. The mac temp I saw on a cinebench r20 run was around 80 degrees. Is the 8th gen tim really that? For reference my buddy with a 480mm rad and a 9600k at 5Ghz 1.4 gets to about 40 degrees max Double the temp seems too much to just be down to hyperthreading
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Electric Violet (Imgur Link) This has been an excellent experience, start to finish. I learned a ton, messed up a bunch, but at the end of the day I have a machine that I am excited to sit down in front of and game on, produce and edit with, and have as a showpiece and something to be proud of. Here is the PCPartPicker list. Sure, the 3800X isn't the best processor on the market, but it has been really fun to overclock and I am very pleased with its performance. Without going into too much detail, the AMD platform has a little bit of sentimental value for me bein
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hey there so i recently got myself a rather cheap used gigabyte 2080 super waterforce. the card reaches about 65°C max aswell as about 2050Mhz while gaming. the plastic shroud on the card was cracked so i decided to do my own out of metal the "mark 1" is done and looks OKish in the upcoming weeks, when all parts arrive, i'll build the second iteration incorporating a 5" lcd for stat readout and a 120mm fan into it. i will mount an additional finned aluminum heatsink on the existing aluminum block, using thermal epoxy, aswell to increase the
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i7-3770 i7-3770 overheating and not slowing down in idle
Guest posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
I have an i7-3770 with a single fan radiator. It sits at 4,92 GHz in idle and doesn't slow down. it exceeded 100C yesterday while under a stress test. What can I do except re-applying thermal paste and What can I do about sitting at max speed at idle? a BIOS update? -
IN PROGRESS After planning out this build for a while, I've finally bought most of the parts needed. Some have arrived, while others are still being shipped to my house. The last things I need to order are a Vega FE Waterblock/backplate, tubing, and fittings. This will be the first custom water-cooled system that I will have built. Please excuse the weird formatting, as this will be the first time I will be documenting a build. The build *should* be completed around the beginning of next month. PARTS LIST: Received Case: Phanteks Shift X Cpu:
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Hi so Im putting together a watercooled build in the Lian li o11 dynamic. Im using the gigabyte waterforce z390 and the gigabyte 2080ti wb (this one:https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N208TAORUSX-WB-11GC#kf) I plan on using 2 radiators on the top and side because i cant put one on the bottom due to space issues. The problem im running into is that i want to be able to see the front of the fans on the side mount. Which means i would be exhausting thru the radiator. The other problem is that I would need another intake, but the thing is, where would i put it?
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So I've been overclocking my built PC that I've had for a while, like 4 years or something. This AIO cooler is consistently running at 1,300 give or take. The rated pump should run at 2500 RPM, aren't these suppose to run at 100% all the time for water pressure? Is there something wrong with the AIO or am I missing something here? I've roughly tried to adjust it through speedfan, no result of being able to lower or increase the RPM, same goes for the BIOS (as far as I know, thats why I'm here)
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Just wanted to post this here since I was struggling to find anyone else that had built in this case with details of what can and can't fit in this case. I was able to fit a 280mm 45mm thick rad in the front and a 280mm 28mm thick rad in top. It is a very tight fit between the GPU and the reservoir/pump with that thick rad in the front, but it still fit. Still need to probably need to replace the front fans with some that are more static pressure optimized. The specs are: Case: Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5 MOBO: ASUS X99 Deluxe
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So I have an H100i Pro from corsair for over a year now and i want to add a push/pull arrangement on my cooler so i have only 2 fans on it i was wondering how do i add 2 more but i can still control it thru iCUE
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Introduction Scratch built case specifications: 7.23L excluding raised sidepanels 8.97L including raised sidepanels 100% anodized CNC milled aluminum structure - main structure will be entirely 12mm panels - inside structure will be 3mm panels 2x 4mm thick tinted tempered glass panels Entirely assembled with metric countersunk- and metric thumb-screws Hardware specifications: Custom modded Asus X470-i motherboard AMD Ryzen 7 2700x CPU 2X8GB of 3GHz G.Skill TridentZ RGB
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So My Idea is Basically Using Watercooling for my Complete PC BUT: I dont want single Components to be cooled i want the Entire PC to be cooled. I Know i just Could Use an Water Cooler and Drive it Over That But im an Service technican for Cooling tech the thing is I Know How the Compressor Cooler are Working but i also Know what can Happen and What are tha Risks and my Guess is that The Radiators are More Maintanence Friendly because either you have a Leckage or a Fan is Not working anymore. Basically i want to use 3 Radiators 1. Radiator is to Blow the Cold Air into the PC 2. Radiat
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I’m in the making of my second PC and I wanted to share the parts I’m getting with you, some of them I already have and some I am getting soon, Here is the list. Rate it Thermaltake View 91 TG Super-tower Asus ROG Zenith II Extreme Alpha AMD Ryzen Threadripper 3990x Nvidia Titan RTX x 2 EK Titan RTX Acetal & Gold Waterblock x 2 EK sTRX4 CPU Acetal & Plexi D RGB Waterblock 6TB WD Black 256MB cache x 2 350mm EK D RGB Reservoir 1600w P2 PSU 80+ Platinum Trident Z Royal Silver 4800mhz x 8 Samsung 860 Evo 4TB x 4 Samsung
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The almost two month wait for my 3900X has ended and I've finally completed it! CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62 Thermal Compound: Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Motherboard: Asus PRIME X570-PRO Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 1 TB GPU: Asus GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11 GB Turbo GPU Cooler: Kraken G12 + NZXT Kraken X52 Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Power Supply: SeaSonic PRIME Ultra Titanium 850 W 80+ Titanium + Phanteks White Extentions Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit
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Project Gallium Hi I am the photographer and now i guess the pr guy too of a very small modding team named elemental computers. Another member of the team you guys might know is @Maybach123 he is pretty active on this forum. Anyways this is our first public build log and since this is our first we wanted to do something that we have not seen anyone else do before. We are going to be cooling a pc with liquid metal in a full custom loop. Even though this is our first build log it is still a company pet project and may take a while as we are working with somewhat restricted funds right now.
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Hi guys, brand new to the forum. I recently purchased a Radeon VII when xfx had them on sale for $500 and of course my immediate goal was to see how much extra juice I could get out of it by OCing. To make a long story short, I did some minor overclocking on MSI Afterburner with the stock air cooler and could get 1900mhz core/1200mhz memory stable by just raise the power limit (stock voltage was 1074mV but I didn't touch it because of how hot it ran). I got an EK waterblock for it and added it to my custom loop expecting to be able to crank the clock speed by adding additional voltage. Tempera