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Anyone else having this issue? I'm just past 1 month after the manufacturer's 2 year warranty. The RGB LED for "P" switch has deteriorated and is now noticeably less bright compared to all the other LED's. I remember having this issue for the same LED switch within a year of purchase but at that time, it only persisted for a few days/weeks. I mostly have the LED's set on a static primary colour and just cycle through different ones on a per week basis so the defect is very noticeable for my use case. It also looks like the LED's on these are directly soldered into the PCB motherboard - https://www.techpowerup.com/review/corsair-k95-platinum/4.html Any recommendations on the best type of RGB LED to replace it with?

Hi, I recently put together my first PC, and I can't seem to find a way to control my RAM's RGB. I installed windows normally, updated it, installed the radeon software to update drivers, everything was going smooth. Then I installed Dragon Center and noticed I could control my motherboard's and my case's RGB normally, but my ram was struck in a rainbow puke puling mode. After uninstalling DC I tried Crucial's M.O.D. software and it wouldn't even start. Then I uninstalled it and downloaded Aura Sync, because I read some people managed to fix the problem with Aura. Once the installation process finished the ram started flickering like crazy and i rushed to uninstall Aura. The sticks are now stuck on static mode with different gradient of colours and I don't know how to control them. I have already formatted my drive and reinstalled windows twice to make sure there was no software conflict. Can anyone help me?

In keeping with my long-standing tradition of thinking I know what I'm doing when I don't, I recently ordered two single Corsair LL120 RGB fans without realising that these are intended as expansion modules for those who have already splashed out on the triple pack with the hub and lighting node included. All I wanted was 2 fans with white housings and white LED lighting for my AIO radiator to bring a little more contrast to the "black and white" build I'm working on. In retrospect the ML140 PRO LED White fans would have been both better and cheaper. But I am as inpatient as I am overconfident, so I decided to apply myself and see if there was some way to rescue the situation. And there was! Sort of. I'm posting this to let anyone in a similar situation know that you can control at least 2 (and maybe more) Corsair RGB fans without the hub or the node if you are prepared to do a little soldering, as long as your motherboard has an addressable RGB header. The only thing you won't be able to do is control the fans individually. And here is how: 1. Establish which of the pins on your motherboard's addressable RGB header are the 5V, the Data Out and the Ground pin. On the ASRock B450M Pro4 it's (from left to right) 5V - Data Out - Blank - Ground. Note: Make sure you are using the addressable RGB header, not one of the normal RGB LED headers as these are 12V and will fry your fan LEDs. On the ASRock B450M Pro4 the addressable header is grey while the other 2 are white. 2. If you have an RGB header cable already, strip the wires on one end and set it aside. If not, you will need to source one or find a suitable alternative. I tried using a USB 2.0 cable, but the RGB header pins appear to be thinner than USB header pins, so this didn't work. In the end, I used a 5-pin subwoofer speaker level input cable from my car audio junk box and cut it down to four with a Stanley knife. This turned out to be ideal because the pin spacing on a speaker level input cable is just right, they grab the RGB header pins well and the other end of the cables are already stripped. 3. The 4-pin LED cable from the Corsair LL120 fan (and I assume the other models, but don't take that for granted) labelled "TO RGB HUB" is composed of, in order, 5V - Data Out - Data In - Ground. I initially made the mistake of assuming that the end cable with all the grey markings on it was the 5V, but it turned out to be the other way around. To confirm you've got it right, pull the connectors out of the plug, stick one of the outside connectors into the 5V hole on a female Molex plug (far left if the two indentations are at the top) and try out the other three connectors on one of the ground holes (the two in the middle). If you get lights on the fan (mine turned red), you've found your 5V side. 4. Match up your 5V cables and solder. Match up Data Out from header to Data In on fan cable and solder. Match up ground cables and solder away. Insulate your soldering points and wrap it all up in heat shrink or electrical tape and, presto, you're done! Wired up in this way, my two fans work perfectly with ASRock's Polychrome Sync software. If you are using Polychrome, just set the "Addressable LED Number" to however many LEDs are on the fan. It's 16 for the LL120. I know using the Corsair hub and node provides a little more functionality, but for my purposes this solution is ideal as I will not be adding any additional RGB fans or other peripherals. That said, my motherboard still has two normal RGB headers available in case I ever get strip fever. I apologise to those of you who are smarter than I am for teaching you to suck eggs, but I spent hours scouring the web for a solution and ended up having to piece this one together from a number of sources, so maybe someone out there will find it helpful. I, for one, was never going to spent £85.99 on the three-fan pack with the included controllers, and it's nice to know that I didn't have to. In fact, having proven to myself that my motherboard and ASRock's RGB controller software are perfectly capable of managing these two fans (and possible more) without the need for any additional hardware, I would take issue with Corsair for not making it easier to do so. At the end of the day, the cable I put together could be produced at negligible cost and included in the single fan packs as I believe most addressable RBG motherboard headers use the same pin configuration, but please call me out on this if I'm wrong. If the above guide is too confusing, I would happily produce some visual aides. Just let me know.

What can I do to change msi logo on gpu cuz when I choose color and its brightness and hit apply it automatically goes to white

Hey, so I am building a system using the Gigabyte Gaming 3 mobo, which has a 5-pin rgb header for rgb fusion software. I would love to use this, but the only compatible strips I can find are the new cablemod ones, and those are too expensive. Does anyone know of a strip that is rgbw, has five pins, and individually addressable leds? (Preferably about $20 per strip) (I need at least 180cm)

I wanted to build the PC in this video: but the ssd they used is not sold to the public, is there any other ssd compatible to control the rgb set up.

Hello fellow people of these forums! I have recently bought EVGA's new AIO cooler, the EVGA CLC 280. All around it's a fantastic cooler and it keeps my i7 6700K at only 50 degrees celsius under high intensity battlefield 4 matches. The problem lies in the LED. Sometimes it turns from white (my preferred colour, and the one i set it to in EVGA's control software) to pink As you can probably imagine, in a build where I have put very much effort into making it purely black, white and sometimes accents of rainbow effects with my lovely RGB hardware, it isn't favorable to have a bright pink "EVGA" logo in the middle of the motherboard. Just before writing this, it did it again, but like if it was sensing that i was writing this, it turned back to white again And if you are wondering, no, I haven't put it in temperature mode in the software, it is in the "nothing" mode, or as it practically is, static colour mode. Thanks in advance - and sorry if I spelled something wrong, I'm not a native english speaker.

Hi, What I'm planning to do: Buy this one: RGB LED Strip 5M length:5 Meter But an IR control with only 16/20 colors? Nope! What I'm searching for: A cheap solution to control those LED's by USB. DIY? Not really a problem. Programm it? Not a problem, but a software with graphic interface would be nice. It would be best, if I don't have to upload program to a chip each time i want to change my light. Ideal Solution: A Controller (DIY or not) connected to my PC and a Software to control it. I searched about this already, and i didn't come up with a solution by now.

Hi, PC noob here, I'm wondering what LED strips I should get? I'm looking for RGB LED strips (preferably solid light, rather than a "string with lights spaced apart", if that makes any sense, although I think that such an option doesn't exist, but I guarantee you know way more than I do). My case is the NZXT Noctis 450. I have no idea if this case is magnetic or not. It's made of steel and plastic, but I don't know which parts are steel and which are plastic, and I'd highly prefer magnetic LEDs. My motherboard is the ASUS ROG VIII HERO ALPHA and I want the RGB LED strips to be plugged directly into the two Aura RGB-strip headers that come with my motherboard. As for length, the longer the better but it cannot be longer than 2 meters, as recommended by ASUS. Since I'm going to have two RGB LED strips, I'd like to cover the space dimension of my case (which is 220mm x 567mm x 544mm). I know that I'm asking for a lot of criteria here and might that there might not be a RGB LED strip that matches all of the criteria, but anything as close as possible would be amazing! At this moment, I was thinking of getting one of the CableMod WideBeam Magnetic RGB LED Strip at 60cm. The reason why I'm asking here rather than just buying the one I found is because there might be better options that you know, I don't know if my case is magnetic, and I think I'd need something more than 60cm. Not sure though. Keep in mind I don't even have the case yet so I can't measure the total perimeter of which I want the RGB LED strips to be placed and then divide that perimeter by 2 since I'll have two RGB LED strips. Thanks so much for your help!

So, I want to connect my desk's LED strip (4-pin RGB) with my motherboard (Asus ROG Strix X470 F Gaming) but I don't know how to get the LED connector out of my case(Sharkoon TG5), without it to look weired. Is there a way to have a 4-pin led extention to [those small plates, where the GPU is screwed] and then another extention? And will it work with Aura Sync(LED strip is just a normal one, with remote{remote will be useless after its done...}) I want to get full RGB... Thanks

Hello everyone. I am looking into possibly upgrading the LED lights in a very old Alienware case, the Alienware Area - 51 ALX (X58) case. I wanted to know if anyone has changed the LEDs in one before and how difficult is it to do? I might just get better ones for the alienware software or just might grab some Aura sync ones.

Hi everyone ! Based on what I saw, various battlestations here and there, it seems very few people (not to say no one) has implemented an Ambilight system. Sure, RGB is everywhere and sometimes even comes with a remote, but why have that when you can just have an Ambilight system that does everything by itself and greatly reduces visual fatigue* ? There are many good solutions out there but I will present you my homemade one. So follow along if it grabbed your attention** *Disclaimer 1: I am not a doctor and you should not trust me. Eye strain is a serious topic. **Disclaimer 2 : I am not a native english speaker and surely not a good blog writer, I hope you can forgive me and that this topic fits in "General Discussion". All the code and the related dependencies can be found on my totally amateur GitHub project page Why would I even need amiblight for ? To do this : This and more ! Supports 21/9 content (not yet automatically, it has to be switched between 16/9 and 21/9) Supports multiple monitors in line and can be adjusted to fit nearly every setup Support a couple of filters like anti-flickering or Flu.x effect Wireless, apart from the power cable (usually a USB cable that does not come from the PC, so wireless between the PC and the setup at least) Supports fixed color as well, for the boring one among you Can be configured while running Good balance between CPU usage, frequency and idle timing (can be slightly adjusted) Can run in background, run it and forget it It can also be used as a desk lighting, you don't HAVE to put on the rear of your screen, you can do pretty much everything you want with a bit of tweaking. Providing you have a good USB power bank, you can also achieve the truly wireless Ambilight gaming chair The motion effect is really great, but can only be fully appreciated in person. As for reducing eye fatigue, I would say that it helps a lot when using your PC on the evening and at night. Sweet, I want one, what do I do ? Well Billy, here is the things you have to know : This setup is composed of two parts A software on the PC side, that captures frames and send data through the local network An Arduino compatible microcontroller with build-in Wifi (here, the popular a ESP8266) attached to some addressable RGB LEDs array that it is going to drive. The controller connects to your home network over wifi and wait for the C# program to send payloads corresponding to the color of the edges of your screen or screens. Here is a picture of the thing : To get a better grasp about Ambilight projects, check this Adafruit tutorial, that is pretty much the base and inspiration for this project. This example from Adafruit sends data over the USB serial port. But we don't like cables. So I made it wireless. I will also assume you have some knowledge about the Arduino Framework, since it is used to program the Wifi controller. Now Billy here is what you need : Read the Adafruit tutorial, if you have not, just do it. 5 meters of WS2812B LED strip (ebay), the 30LEDs/meter one with double sided tape, check on Google about WS2812B (also called Neoplixel). A ESP8266 microcontroller board (also ebay), my favorite variant being the NodeMCU, which is an ESP8622 with a serial to USB chip right on the board, handy ! Some soldering equipments : iron, solder, wire, etc ... the usual DIY box. You will need the Arduino IDE, as well as the WifiManager library and the NeoPixelBus library. (OPTIONNAL) If you have a big screen (>27") you may need an external 5V power supply, such as a 2A phone charger or better. I personnaly dim the LEDs and run 52 of them of a single micro USB cable pluged into a USB3.0. My setup is the default one and if you want more power and you know what you are doing, check here, where I use right shifting to dim the LEDs. In the end this is hardly over 40$ including shipping if you already have some basic tools (yup, soldering iron is a basic tool). Wiring Now comes the tidious process : Wiring everything together. Solder the 3 wires of the first LED strip to the NodeMCU (5V, GND, and the data line), chain the pieces of strips together around the back of your monitor and tape it all as close as you can to the edge of your screen. If you are lost, get back to the Adafruit tutorial. Mind that there is a direction for the data line. If you chain one strip wrong way it will not work and you will have more soldering to do. Programming and connecting to the Wifi network Once everything is installed it is time for programming the NodeMCU. Download the Wifi and the LED library that you put in the Arduino library directory, and open this Arduino sktech. Connect the NodeMCU to your PC, select the relevant COM and upload the sketch. If everything worked your LEDs should light up red, meaning it started but did not manage to connect to any Wifi network. Now you can plug the USB cable elsewhere if it will be your source of power. Following the instruction from the WifiManager library, you have to help the NodeMCU to connect to your network. The NodeMCU will act as a Wifi access point hosting the configuration page. Select your Wifi network and enter your credentials. Once done, the NodeMCU will restart and connect to your network. The LEDs will turn green for a moment. At this point the controller is connected and waits for payloads from the PC software. The software (Yup I'm french, but it switches to english automaticly) The C# software can be downloaded here. The "param.txt" file is relevant if you want to have your configuration applied automatically at startup. Upon starting, the software will ping every IP addresses from your local network to find the Wifi controller (from 192.186.0.1 to 192.168.1.254) . This process completes in about a second and the LED should match your screen right away. You will have to adjust various parameters, like the number of LED on the X and Y axis, the number of LEDs to ignore in the corner (if you can't reach all the way to the corners of your monitor), the position of the first LED, and a couple others to have and optimized setup. These parameters can then be saved on the "param.txt" file. To help you here I suggest using this handy Youtube video. And voila ! (<- Click here) Now you can re-discover your wallpaper collection with the eyes of a newborn ! I will try to make the text lighter, to add pictures and provide more details if it catches the interest of a couple of people. I hope to hear from you, and thank you if you manage to read this far. _____________________________________________________________________________ Last words : It does not currently support full-screen games. I can't manage to get the videocard buffer just yet (junior dev') so it will just stay black while playing full-screen games. And for some fast paced games it is for the best. Though that is the confort words I say to myself to hide that I can't manage to get SlimDX working on C# WPF ...

I am looking at another way to do an RGB LED sync because there is no aura sync motherboard. I am using the asus gtx1080 strix. Is it possible to separate this VGA LED strip and connect it to another RGB controller? The VGA LED strip is 5pin (RGBW) and my RGB controller is 4 pin (RGB). I'm sorry I can not speak English well.

I am trying to get my LEDs to be all Aura-Sync controlled, but my current motherboard (Asus Prime X370-Pro) only has 1 RGB header that I currently have my CPU cooler and fan connected to. I am looking at getting the Silverstone RGB LED 8 Port Hub along with a SATA-to-Molex Power Adapter, since my PSU doesn't have molex. I also want to get a couple more of the fans that came with my DeepCool Gammax GT cooler. The cooler uses the DeepCool RF 120 RBG fan, but unlike the cooler, it doesn't come with an RGB connector for the motherboard and the page doesn't specifically state that it works with Aura Sync, like the cooler does. If I connect the individual RF 120s to the hub, would they work with Aura Sync? Second, the hub comes with 2 RGB strips, but they are not addressable. I want to put an addressable strip behind my desk and I don't think the provided cables will be long enough. What might be some good recommendations for RGB extension cables and an addressable RBG strip that are compatible with the Silverstone hub? Thanks!

I am interested in buying bitfenix alchemy for my phantaeks enthoo evolv mini itx case I was wondering how the actual leds are powered on? I have a fully modular power supply but Id really like to know if I have to buy something separately I suspect its powered with molex connectors thank you in advance

I'm looking to buy some RGB led strip for my PC what do you think: CableMod WideBeam Magnetic RGB LED Kit https://eustore.cablemod.com/product/cablemod-widebeam-magnetic-rgb-led-kit-60cm/ icemodz RGB LED Package http://www.icemodz.eu/store/#!/Custom-RGB-LED-Package-Incl-Remote-and-RF-Controller-2-Year-Warranty/p/22177940/category=5346676

For those trying to buy the NZXT Hue+ but can't find them on stock. They are available every morning on NZXT's website, maybe around until 2~ish. Cool.

So yesterday, I decided to purchase 2 deepcool RGB LED strips, install them, and set both of them (both of them at once using the same remote) into strobe mode. Initially, they are in sync, however after a minute or two, one strip starts changing colors faster than the other, and the difference only grows with time. The molex connector I plug the 2 controllers into dictates which of the 2 strips goes out of sync (as in when I switch the power cables on them, they still go out of sync but the strip that eventually switches colors faster than the other strip also switches) Currently, I have them plugged into each other and then into the same connector, and the problem persists. Why is this happening? does the current/voltage a strip receives dictate how fast it cycles through colors? how do I solve this?

so i have been looking at rgb led kits for my build but they only have 2 strips i need one with at least 3 if not 4 because i have a frosted acrylic psu and hdd shroud and the case its self. also the controller cant go in a drive bay i don't have any left thanks maybach123

so this isn't a case mod but its a qaudcopter mod . anyways i got a little led module to hook up led strips to my drone and i want to use rgb leds with it and so i needed to figure out the voltage that the module is putting out to see if its compatible with the rgb control box 12 v. and its putting out an inconsistent voltage (very inconsistent) does anyone know why this would happen? @W-L any ideas thanks

so i want to make sure before i buy if this works or doesnt. i want to use rgb led on my dji phantom but im not sure if it will work. the module that adapts batteries of the phantom to (non rgb) led puts out inconsistent voltages (which i was told is normal lipos put out inconsistent voltages). the battery says it puts out 15.2 V 4480mAh (68Wh) and the input for the led controller is 12 volts anyone know if i will over power the controller or any inconsistent voltages will mean the controller wont work at all. if anyone can help it would be great thanks

I'm Looking for some RGB LED Strips I can get for my NZXT s340. Anybody have recommendations? (I don't want to get too expensive here, like around $20-30, preferably cheaper)

Hey everyone so i was just wondering if it is possible to convert a orion spark which runs off one usb (led and data) to a ps/2 plug for both data and power to run the keyboard?

NCIX: http://bit.ly/1vCXZ8X Amazon: http://geni.us/2bSA We finally got a chance to look at the new Logitech G910 with Romer G switches. How do they stack up against their competition?

Hey guys I'm new to electricity mods. I want to get a on/off button for some RGB led strips, that I'm going to control by using corsair commander mini, when it is released. I want to know if I can put the on/off button on the ground wire, or if I need to cut the power to the three other wires? Reasoning for using a on/off button, is that I want to easily and quickly turn the lights on/off, without going into the corsair link software. If anyone know what I should do, please educate me, because I'm completely blank here