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Showing results for tags 'rad'.
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Hi all! Just got the rads for my second ever water cooled build, 3x Hardware Labs Nemesis 420 GTXs, and was surprised to see a bunch of reddish/orange stuff down the ports. I'm aware that all rads need to be flushed to remove flux and other manufacturing residue, but this seems a bit weird? It's been a few years since my last build, but I don't recall the rads I used then (EK CoolStream XE 360, Hardware Labs Nemesis 280GTS XFLOW) looking so dirty. The reddish/orange rust/corrosion looking stuff in particular is concerning to me. In each rad one of the ports (the more recessed one) looks a lot worse, with much more orange stuff. The other one has some orange, but mostly just silver drops that I assume are flux or some other manufacturing gunk. I see a lot of posts elsewhere answering similar questions saying it's normal, but the reasoning fluctuates wildly. Most say it's just normal copper oxidation but then proceed to say that would be green where this looks more like iron rust (red/orange). I guess it starts reddish and changes to green over time? I got all 3 rads brand new from the same vendor and they all look more or less the same. The boxes were pretty dusty like they've sat around a long time. One other strange thing was the specs on the back of the box had one line covered up with black tape. I took the tape off and saw the covered up line says "Custom Dark Matter™ high quality finish", which is what they list on the HWLabs site. The rads do not have the same textured finish shown on the HWLabs site. It's a very smooth, matte black. That's not really an issue for me, but I do find it odd and it makes me wonder if these are old inventory or something? TL:DR; Do these look like normal ports for brand new, unflushed rads? PS: Sorry that the focus is completely off. Phone will not focus inside the port with enough distance to shine light in so you can actually make out what's in there.
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I'm planing on building a build with a Ryzen 5 3600x and a RTX 3060 ti. What size rad should i get? (idk if i will get into overclocking)
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- rad
- ryzen53600x
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What can cause AIO rad fins to bend/melt? Should I be concerned?
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I'm currently looking to upgrade my cooling from a cpu fan to an AIO cooler. However, there are two issues that I've run into. I don't know if my case can fit a 280 mm on the top of the case (my case is a Fractal Meshify C while my motherboard is a MSI MPG Z490 GAMING CARBON WIFI LGA 1200). This is why I'm stuck between getting a 280mm and a 240mm. However this is my other issue, I don't know what are the best AIO's to get. I'm not interested in price since I'm willing to spend a good amount, I'm only interested in performance.
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Hello, I have recently started buying parts for a mid-high end pc build based around the new corsair 4000D case. While researching I was also trying to decide whether I should get a 360mm rad and place it on the front, or get a 280mm rad for the top. But my question is, will my ram sticks fit with the top mounted rad? My Ram: Corsair Vengeance (2 X 16gb) sticks of 3600 DDR4 memory. Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow. Radiator Corsair H115i Pro XT RGB radiator. (280mm top mounted) Motherboard: MSI MAG X570 Tomahawk Wifi Edit: The motherboard choice is not final, I am also trying to decide between these 3 motherboards with either the Ryzen 9 3900x or the 5900x. Any help is greatly appreciated. Motherboard 1:MSI MAG X570 Tomahawk Wifi Motherboard 2:Asus ROG STRIX B550-F Gaming Wifi Motherboard 3:MSI MPG B550 Gaming Carbon Wifi Thanks!
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- ram
- motherboard
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Hi guys, i was thinking of buying the 1000 D case and 480mm rad with it Is corsair good company to buy from or should i look for alternatives like alphacool???. also want to know which company has more reputation and which of them is best at 480mm rad.????
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Hi guys, Hope you are all doing well. I was thinking about which is better a single Dark Rock 4 Pro Air Cooler for AMD ZEN 3 5950x or will 2x 480mm Rad and 2x 360mm and 1x 240mm Custom Water Loop will beat the Air cooler?(also cooling the GPU RTX 3090 from same Water Loop)
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Hello mates I currently use a pair of Arctic P14s on my 280mm CPU rad They work fine temp wise, but when I need to push them above 1000rpm they make a kinda of hi pitched whine/resonance noise that I don't like at all... This noise is relatively new, they're 18mo old maybe they kinda not age well, thinking to replace them So what should I get ? I don't need iPPC style fans that can reach 3000rpm but with a turbine jet noise, what I'd need is some effective rad fan that's still silent (mostly) at 1200 to 1500rpm, which is the maximum I need to keep my CPU below 80c (assuming proper air pressure) Are Noctuas AF14 good at that ? or BQ SW4s (non Pro) ? Other ?
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Considering building my first ever computer tower. Only issue is, I love the Fractal Meshify S2 case, and want to put in a NEXT Kraken X63 280mm Radiator but it says "(max 35 mm motherboard component height)"... no clue what that is. I assume it's the maximum compatible Motherboard's heatsink height? I plan to mount the radiator on top as exhaust. The motherboard I want to use in this setup would be the MSI MPG Z490 GAMING CARBON WIFI ATX LGA1200 Motherboard... I believe it has a hight of 50.8mm as generically posted on it's amazon page, but it has no hight measurement on the officials MSI product specs page. So my question to those of you who may know, can I get the Kraken x63 to fit mounted on the top of the Fractal Meshify S2 case if I'm also using the MSI MPG Z490 GAMING CARBON WIFI ATX LGA1200 Motherboard? And or, can anyone tell me what "max motherboard component height" means? *sigh*
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Hello there, I'm in the process of nailing down a spec for a watercooling build, and I wanted to get some more experienced water-coolers perspectives on this: Considering I will likely be having a 280mm radiator (45mm thick) at the top of the case with fans, and no rear fan. At the front - would you put a: 1) A Thin 26mm thick, 240mm radiator sandwiched by 4 x 120mm fans or 2) A Thicker 38mm thick, 240mm radiator with 2 x 120mm fans on one side? My initial thoughts are: Option 1 would provide better all-round cooling of things like the motherboard components due to higher airflow, however potentially less cooling compared to Option 2 for the CPU and GPU. and Option 2 could provide better cooling of the CPU and GPU at the expense of cooling to other components like the motherboard. What do you think? do you have a better idea? The computers basic components: - Intel i7-6700K - MSI Z170 Mortar Motherboard - EVGA GTX 1070 FTW - Phanteks Enthoo Evolv mATX case Other conisderations - All fans involved are Static Pressure - CPU and GPU will have mild overclocks - The PC is aimed to be quiet - The case can only support a MAX. 240mm radiator at the front
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I decided to slice my case open and I'd like to pretty it up. My current plan is a black and orange scheme (not fanboy-ism, legitimately my fave colors) using either plasti dip/flexi dip or spray paint to get a nice finish. I don't want a glossy finish, I like the matte/textured black on the case already but need to fix all the scratches. Any suggestion?
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Hi there, Pretty new to the forums but long time LTT follower. I'm looking for a bit of community help in choosing a case for a new portable editing system. Over the last year I have been doing a lot of Freelance editing and have needed to take my workstation from job to job. My current x99 system is in a Corsair Carbide 500R and has both work and personal data on it. It's large, heavy and well like part of the family so every time I have to move it I worry. In fact Ive had to leave it at location a number of time. Not fun. So I'm planning on building a Ryzen based secondary editing PC that I can load my footage and projects onto for the duration of the job and not worry about anywhere near as much. I'm looking for a compact/portable case that can support an m-atx mobo, a standard sized GPU...say founders edition as a minimum, 2-3 3.5 HDD and at least 1 2.5 and finally a 280mm AIO. If the case could have handles that would be a bonus... So far the closest thing I've found is the bit-phoenix Prodigy-M... But I'm not sure on RAD support. I'm open to advice or suggestions etc and if you need more details just let me know. Cheers! FG
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I wanted to show off something I have been wanting to test. If you are not familiar with the H440 case top, it has space for 120X3 fans or 360 rad. It then has a cover with side vents. I have a H100i v2. This AIO has a 240 rad. This left one of 120mm fan spot open. I was concerned that the cover was somewhat restrictive and heat from the rad was circulating back in to the case. So decided to test covering all of the holes. I did start to feel more air coming out of the vents. Long story short it was good for 2 or 3 degrees C decrease. I think it is worth using some painter tape to cover the top. See my testing method below. Room temps 22.5 c for both tests. (i did them back to back). I warmed up the machine by playing an hour of games before the first test and this was with the stock set up. I7 6700K No OC Evga 970 open cooler no OC Warmed with 1 hour of fallout 4. then i let it come back to idle for a little bit. I used Asus real bench to put a load on the system. i used the corsair link software and Open hardware monitor to get the temps. CPU 10 min in 68C 30 min in 70C water temps 38.4C GPU 10 min in 70C 30 min in 72C Then I taped up the top everything else the same CPU 10min in 68C 30min in 68C water temps 36.3C GPU 10min in 73C <-- odd but that was the case 30min in 68C the biggest surprise was that the water temps were cooler and the 30 min temps were 2 degrees lower with just a few cents of painter tape. I have complete changed the system now with the rad in the front and changed out all of the NZXT fans with corsair SP120. Better temps all around.
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have a 280 rad want to but on a case with 240 rad cutout is it possible
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- water
- watercooling
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Hi everyone i'm a new member and i come here to ask you a question about a rad for my 6900k. Config : - i7 6900k - Asus Rampage V Edition 10 - 4*8GB DDR4 G-Skill Trident Z 3200MHz CL14 - Case Bequiet Dark Base Pro 900 I've got an AIO liquid cooler and it makes noise this is not good that's why i want to buy a "classic" rad for my CPU. I would like to buy the Baquiet Dark Rock TF ( top flow ) RAD for my CPU but is it fully compatible with the size of my case and the size of my RAM please ? Second and last question : Can i put this rad oriented at 90° with heat pipes on top an below ? Sorry if my English isn't so good. Thank you so much and have a nice day
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I'm just wanting to know, does this case (Razer H440) fit this Radiator ( EK Coolstream PE 360 triple)
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Hi there Forum, So I'm sitting here with an H110i running on stock fans, and I've noticed that they can get quite loud so I wanted to know which fans you would replace them with to ensure a more quiet experience. But my main concern is the stock fan on my EVGA 1080 Hybrid (that usually would be plugged into the GPU itself that has a 3pin header sticking out, but the one I have replace it with is a 4-pin connector running directly from the CHA_FAN header on the motherboard. Meaning I have to manually control it, but It can't control itself based on the GPU Temp only the CPU, Motherboard, VRM or PCH, so I'm looking for a good 3 pin fan to connect there too, so the Rad/GPU can control the speed of the fan on its own. Suggestions on how to make my life easier? Thanks in advance!
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Hey guys, I'm in the market for a new Case for my system, Currently got the s340 White, but I dislike having to use my 240 Rad on my front intake. It just brings hot air into my system, and I feel it just isn't optimal for case temps. I am looking for something that can... 1. Top mount a 240 Rad in Push/Pull config. (Corsair H100i) 2. Not have a 5.25 bay. 3. As small as possible with ATX Motherboard. I've tried looking around and nothing seems to fit my criteria. I'm not afraid to mod a case to fit my needs, I modded a Corsair 230T to do top mount Push/Pull, but it had 5.25 bays, that I feel were a waste of space. For example, that bay area could have been used for another air intake fan. ------------------- I've also thought about ditching my 240 Rad and just getting an Air cooler instead. (this would eliminate the front intake are coming in hot/warm) I've had the rad for over a year now, doesn't the liquid in them go bad eventually anyway?
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Dose anyone know if I can put a 240mm rad on the side of the fractal nano s? Even if I have to mod the case a bit? I attached a picture with what I am planning on doing.
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- watercooling
- side
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Whats up guys? I am building a friend of mines a new computer but using some parts I have had just laying around. Obviously not just laying around they were protected and safe but anyways... I am running into an issue. The motherboard I am using is the Z170A MSI Gaming M5 and the processor is the i5-6600k. I put a Corsair H100i GTX on to cool the processor. The issue I am running into is that the motherboard in BIOS says my CPU is getting close to 90C. It will start at 40C but gradually scale up to 90C. I have tried putting a different thermal paste on twice now, I have tried different CPU headers, I have recent the CMOS and tried re positioning the entire unit. I don't understand why the motherboard isn't detecting my radiator and why its getting so hot! Please help a fellow out, Gavin
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I DONT WANT MY CUSTOM GPU WATERLOOP TO LOOK LIKE A KIT BECAUSE EVERYTHING ELSE IS MADE BY EKWB
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I just got a new pc for xmas and I am wondering if i should liquid cool my gigabyte gtx 1070 with the ek coolstream se 240 with the fans they recommend or the alphacool nexXxos xt45 240
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anyone know of a cheap D5 pump (used or new) and were to get one? the only requirements are that it has to be a D5 pump and it has to be made by a reputable manufacturer.
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All you need to do is run this .bat as an administrator. Yes this works. Try to get this to the Linus and gang. <Link Removed>
- 1 reply
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- windows 10
- save money
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