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Hi all, I need help planning an outdoor run for a UniFi Access point. It is going to be on the side of my deck in the backyard. I am planning on running a direct burial ethernet cable 18" below grade parallel to the 240V power for the hot tub (which will be run inside a PVC conduit) On the side of the house there is a PoE switch which powers PoE cameras that I am planning to pull from. What I am worried about is the possibility of a lightning strike hitting the ethernet cable in the ground. There are not many trees around, but with a hot tub full of water near the access point I figured it could be a possibility. I would run fiber to the access point, but that would mean I would need to put an additional power outlet on the deck to power the converter which would not make much sense since the outlets near the house are only about 30 feet away and because of how expensive wire currently is. The way around this that I thought of is to put an ethernet to fiber converter behind the PoE switch. In essence this is how it would go: Main Switch in Rack ---> Ethernet to Fiber Converter ---> Fiber to Ethernet Converter ---> PoE Switch ---> Direct Burial Ethernet Cable ---> WiFi Access point The Fiber would isolate the outdoor devices from the indoor which would limit the chances of anything in the rack or connected to ethernet from being damaged during a lightning strike. The only problem I see is the Fiber converters would be plugged into the same UPS as the outdoor PoE switch. I am not sure if that defeats the whole point or if that does not matter? Total run is about 125ft long from the orange to the purple in the map. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I have a video suggestion. I saw this video by DIY Perks on YouTube where he built an extra bright TV for cheap. I suggest that Linus should make an extra bright gaming monitor for the outside of his house. Linus bought so many machines but they aren't being used at all. I miss the old Linus where he water cooled using an AC unit & much more. He at least did diy back then.

This is a project I picked up for my family over the holidays. We will be connecting the networks of three houses from a central omni-directional antenna in the middle of a field. I have opted to use Ubiquiti products for this build due to my experience working with them in the past. It ain't much but it's honest work. - The age old story of US Internet providers. The only Internet provider available in this rural location offers only one speed, molasses. It is horribly inconsistent, and service has only degraded over the years. There are three houses, two with independent connections, and one using a hotspot with the only mobile carrier with reception in the area. On a good day, the best connection averages 1.4Mbps download, 0.15 Mbps upload, and 80ms latency. The second house's connection is somehow noticeably and consistently worse than the first. The ISP refuses to add service to the third house despite having it previously due to their over-provisioned lines. Calls to the ISP for the degraded service are a waste of time, any service at all is enough for them to call acceptable. For this premium broadband experience, they are paying $50/mo for two homes, and even more for the hotspot in the third. While researching this project over the best of these connections, I stumbled upon a great example of the current situation. When a PDF failed to open in-browser after a few minutes, I resorted to downloading a copy through terminal. The result was 6 minutes 11 seconds to download a 16.4MB file. If you build it, they will come. A pre-order has been in with Starlink for a year now. The latest update suggests service may be available starting in March. Since the pre-order, another service provider has started offering tower based point to point Internet service some 50 miles away. There is rumor of them expanding the service area, but for now, it is a race to see which service will be available first. We have yet to see if either provider will provide a reliable connection with acceptable speeds. The plan is to build a suitable intranet so that when better service is available, the existing services can be cancelled and all buildings can run off of the same uplink. The Plan - Part 1: Location Points A, B, and C represent the houses, point M represents the bridge between the houses, and P represents our source of power for the bridge (more on this later). Every point to point connection is in line of sight. This is a heavily wooded area, and there is little room for modification due to the treeline. Conveniently, the connections to B and C run parallel with power lines, which keeps the chainsaw out of my hands, and leaves future tree trimming to the power company. The Plan - Part 2: Equipment Point M represents the point to multi-point omni-directional device to serve as the backbone. For this I chose the R5AC-LITE-US ($135 USD) with AMO-5G10 ($125 USD) antenna to operate in bridge mode. Each house will be equipped with a Loco5AC-US ($49 USD each). I believe this is an economical option which should allow speeds of up to 450Mbps between the locations. I had originally planned on using three more Loco5AC-US as a bridge before exploring omni-directional options. I would have used a NanoSwitch to provide pass-through PoE and power all of the devices. Having found the N-SW, it looks like an awesome product and I was looking forward to using it. Maybe another time! The Plan - Part 3: Power A road running between points A and M prevents burying cable between them. A water well house, marked as point P, is the only way of getting power to our equipment at M. The well house sits just shy of 100m/330ft from our equipment, and while a CAT6 cable has a maximum distance of 100m/327ft, passive PoE (24v) is only good for 45m/150ft at best. Finding a way to use PoE for this would be a money saver, but burying 110v electric is also an option. The downside to this is the cost of electrical cable, outlet, and waterproofing needed at the bridge. Review My idea is to bring the family's Internet out of the 00's and plan for it stable enough to last the next decade. Reducing the overhead of the three Internet connections should cover the cost of equipment within the first year, even with a higher service fee. TL;DR: Using wireless point to point to cut three Internet connections down to one. Burying 110v electrical across a field because PoE will probably not work. Estimated cost: less than $500 USD. Equipment price list: Model Cost Qty Total Price R5AC-LITE-US 89 1 135 AMO-5G10 125 1 125 Loco5AC-US 49 3 147 Pre-tax $407 Let me know if you have any thoughts or suggestions. I am also open to other brands of point to point equipment if anyone has had good experiences.

Hi all, I need to be able to run a switch outside because I have a couple of ethernet devices that will plug into it. I have a switch flex mini laying around so I would like to be able to use that if possible. My idea was to place the switch in a weatherproof enclosure since its not weatherproof. My only concern is it states the operating temperature can only be -5 to 45° C (23 to 113° F). In my area the temperature can get to 0° F and sometimes a bit below. Would it be possible to still use this switch? Any ideas would be great!

I want to setup wifi network i have 2 connection of wifi 250MB and 500MB and distribute wifi between 1000 people in 1KM of range. What type of wifi outdoor antenna i should use? And how to setup this network?

i am looking to put 4 speakers on my rooftop. I was thinking of using 2 pair of Bose 251 Environmental and their Bose SoundTouch SA-5 Amplifier but i found out that the amp has 2 ports only. Can someone help?

So some back story, I live on a relatively large property and most of it is outdoors. There are no trees which should help a bit. With that out of the way here's my dilemma. I have decent wifi in the house, however I wanted it to stretch around the whole property; I thought about having several WAPs like in pimp my wifi episode 2(can't wait for the next one!). But after some research I found that I could mount a directional wifi antenna on the roof. Please share any suggestions that you may have for me. Thanks for taking the time to respond!

Hi guys, I've been a long time watcher and also lurker (sometimes I post) here on the forum! Recently Linus posted a video about gaming outdoor and how insane it was. Well, I kind of had to laugh at that video because we've been doing something similar for quite some years! We call it CampZone and it has grown out to be an event of around 1500 to 2000 attendees who come to our camping/festival and strike down for 11 days to play games, BBQ, hang at the campfire and generally have fun! Some call it the ultimate gaming vacation, but maybe that's going a bit too far. We are doing it with a bit more luxury then Linus in the video though. We have almost limitless power available using 3 Diesel generators, have a Gigabit port for everything with more then 100Gbit of network bandwidth available, field covering WiFi and even a 2Gbit fiber internet connection with a public IPv4 for everyone to get the fullest out of their vacation and time with friends! We often get international visitors but recently we've started a special international visitor incentive. If you come over to enjoy your vacation and game with us and can present your plane ticket and boarding pass we'll give you a pretty big discount on the event costs because we love having you guys over! I recently made a video about CampZone! It's a technical overview of the event and the organisation behind it but should also give you a good idea about what CampZone is and what goes on there! *Click on the photo to see the video! Let me know what you think of the video and if anyone has any questions, I'll be here to answer them!

I am working on a project where i need a pan-tilt base that has the following characteristics: Payload 2kg Outdoor rated (IP 67 or better) 180 degree pan, 90 tilt USB control (slight hacking of HW for this purpose is fine, more details below) Under $1000 Currently i am using a pan tilt motor setup from gearwurx based on torxis servo motors ( These serve the purpose but are definitely overkill. I am looking for something smaller/lighter. While it does not have direct USB control, it has a polulu servo controller inside them, i rewired it so that i interface via the micro-usb port on the polulu controller and polulu jrk servo controller software. So, if the proposed solutions, need some tinkering like this, I am fine with it. Any suggestions? Thank you very much for your time!

Hey all, I have been commissioned by my Father to completely re-do our home audio. Currently, we have an old Yamaha Audio Receiver (forgot the model) hooked up to 6 speakers built in to the wall. The wiring is Class 2 wiring. What my Dad wants to do is be able to connect wirelessly. This by itself would have been easy, all I would have had to do is put in an adapter. But what he wants to do is have speakers outside and when he changes the song inside on his phone via bluetooth, it changes outside aswell. I am a little lost as in how to do this. The speakers outside would be bluetooth. I was looking at this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B075J4RKGH/ref=twister_B075N7RDQX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I'm not sure if that would do it, so my question is, how can I do this and what should I use to do it. Price isn't really an issue but try to keep it below $1000. Thanks!

Need a solution to undo a ton of jerry rigged setups to have audio around our pool.We have a pool, with 3 separate seating areasand 5 speaker around it. We currently have an old receiver and speaker selector. The receiver has no wireless capability, so we are using an old Apple Airplay device to send audio to it, that works occasionally.What I would like to do is simplify the number of pieces of gear, and add wireless.I would like to have a receiver with bluetooth audio, and also have the ability to pipe the audio for the Chiefs games over the speakers around the pool. But I would like to be able to turn the audio OFF to certain areas if they dont want to listen to the game. If that makes sense.So just bbe able to play audio from our phones to the receiver, and isolate sound to certain areas. Without a crazy expensive receiver with multi-zone options.Looking for the cheapest way to do this within reason.

Hey all! I'm looking for a cheap high brightness monitor. With all this 'stuff' going on i'm forced to work from home. I really love to be outside on my terrace (and kind of my best option if i don't want to be disturbed), but i miss my triple monitor setup, because none of my monitors are bright enough, even in shade. My 2019 15" Macbook Pro seems to be bright enough (just barely though, it's around 500Nits i think). Don't need HDR, 4k would be nice, but i can live with lower resolution. Any recommendations are welcome!

Hi, I have a question. I am planning to do a new cable run from my router to my PC and the shortest run would be running outside, but I am pondering if I can do the cable run outside (with an outdoor cable) and terminate it in a wall socket near the PC and the other end would be terminated would be also terminated in a wall socket near the router. So the cables would run router > wall socket > other wall socket > PC, so 3 cables. Would it work? Can I chain cables like this?

Looking for a headset under 300$ but cheaper is preffered NZD price. Also closed only the sound shouldnt leak too much so someone near my friend cant hear it. I cant think of anything other than the ATH m50x which annoys me.... edit : not for gaming for youtube and music. He has a decent console headset

Amazon: http://geni.us/1FmZ NCIX: http://bit.ly/1NfeLI6 More meetup fun! What the heck did LG send my way this time?

Amazon: http://geni.us/3RJR NCIX: http://bit.ly/1QjSWHt The meetup last week had such a great turnout that I decided to do one (or maybe more than one!) live unboxing for the crowd...

So, my parents want to turn their outdoor patio into another room, with the main attraction being a good sounding system that plays music from an android smartphone or windows computer. (preferably phone) They also want a TV on the wall for outdoor football viewing. I figured a VESA mount would work for this. I THINK TVs have them... It would also be nice if the sound system could switch to receive input from the TV. Now, I can build computers and shop for gaming peripherals all day, but I'm lost when it comes to home entertainment. Do you guys have any suggestions as to how this can be accomplished? Any products or sets that can do just the first part? Thanks in advance.

Hello, So im looking for a very good camera to be set outside and cover the front entrance of my house so if you guys have any suggestions that'd be great. Budget i'd say less around/less than 300 Euros, live in Belgium. Things im looking for specifically are: Suitable for outdoors Good video Wireless ( except for power ) Possibility of saving locally or cloud are both fine

So basically I have my house. I have an antenna mounted on the side that connects to my linksys router via it's external sma connector. The antenna sends out the wifi signal to my shop which is quite some distance away (1/2mile). Currently in the shop I have the same model antenna with a linksys WET54G bridge connected to it. From there it connects to any typical router in this case it's a linksys N router. That's how I got internet now. However the WET54G is dieing and it is powered via DC power adapter which is located outside on an extension cord open to the harsh wisconsin winters. I want to replace the Bridge and antenna with a powered-over-ethernet antenna that will connect into my router. I've found the TP-Link TL-WA7210N and from it's description it seems like it may work. But I need to know if it will work. It claims on the website it is capable of the following, Wireless Modes: AP Router Mode AP Client Router Mode (WISP Client) AP/Client/WDS Bridge/Repeater mode, and I've been looking into the WDS Bridge mode.What I like about TP-Link is they have the configuration panel accessible via an emulator online here. Do you think this will work? If it works I might get a second to replace the ugly antenna on my house to the same and send POE to it from my router and use both antenna connectors on the router for in-house wifi signal and the one ethernet port to send to the antenna to use it as an access point. Will that work?

Hi, I have been looking at outdoor access points to expand my wifi network into the garden. I have seen this access point on Amazon : LINK and wondered if this would work for my network. I have a ADSL router which has WiFi turned on, and a second router which has the network cable plugged into the LAN port, so it is acting as an access point not a router. This setup works really well. Would it be possible to connect the linked outdoor access point up to my network and use it to get improved coverage in my garden? Would this improve the speeds and range of my iPads, iPhones and computers? The reason I ask this is because will my iPad be able to transmit far enough for the access point to be able to pick it up? Thanks in advance for your help, Brandon EDIT : Here is a better link : http://www.tp-link.com/en/products/details/?categoryid=216&model=TL-WA5210G