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Found 833 results

  1. Im looking for all black Motherboard power and reset pin extentions because i plan to use a silverstone remote system but i dony wanna see the y splitter in my VERY open case so i was hoping for extentions that are all black but i cant seem to find any
  2. Hi all, As the title implies, I've got an idea for a laptop mod that is somewhat impractical but is just crazy enough to maybe work. In my Alienware 17 R5, I've got an extra 2240 (I think) M.2 M-key slot in my laptop that I am not going to be using for storage for the forseeable future. Additionally, on the same side of the laptop as the port is facing, I've only got one USB-A port and would like some expansion or docking capabilities. What are the odds that some adapter liek the aliexpress link below has, would be able to function? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000706475269.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.eec04e13it2pWx&algo_pvid=3c8ef2f6-19a7-4a6d-bbe6-ca59aa87f021&algo_expid=3c8ef2f6-19a7-4a6d-bbe6-ca59aa87f021-22&btsid=0ab6d67915884801557695820e54e6&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ Imaging having a PCI(e?) 4x slot in the side of your laptop that you could plug an extension in at your desk/docking station for say usb expansion, HDD connection, or any other PCIe 4x device. Let me know what your thoughts are. Thanks, AJ
  3. Thermaltake S100 simple case mod So as a disclaimer right up front, i'm not a professional when it comes to PC case modding etc. but i recently really enjoy doing it and finding solutions for making things a bit more unique. with that said the mod i came up with here is rather simple and was born out of the need to repurpose the Thermatake S100 wich is actually meant to be used as an led/rgb cover for your RAM slots. the need to repurpose it came up because i didn't really account for how massive my Be Quiet Dark Rock 4 CPU cooler actually is and how much Space it takes up over the RAM slots before ordering the S100 (stoopid me) My curret case is the Be Quiet Silent Base 801 which has great base functionality and a design i love so i'm planning on further modding it in the future. Thermaltake S100 on Amazon Step #1: removing the the original "calmping/mounting" mechanism with a pair of side cutters which was fairly simple because the plastic is quite soft so there is not much force required to remove it. Step #2: removing the 4 screws on the back of the S100 and opening it up because i was going to mount it to the the HDD Slot covers that come included with my Be Quiet SB801. Step #3: lining up the backplate of the S100 to the position on the front of the HDD slot cover i wanted it to be in and using a very small screwdriver to poke through the scerwholes in the backplate to get the correct position for drilling the mounting wholes in the HDD cover. i ended up only doing 2 wholes to help with alingment because i was going to hot glue it on there anyway. Step #4: drilling the wholes for the tiny screws from the backplate of the S100 and screwing them in, to help with aligning everything. then i applied a fair amount of hot glue to the backplate of the S100 and carefully putting the HDD slot cover on top while evenly applying a good amount fo pressure for about 20 seconds so the hot glue had time to dry. and that is about it, i didnt' really aim for perfection here. you could go ahead an sand the edges of the cut off parts to make it more smooth but the thing is that you can't really see them when everything is mounted inside the case later on so i didn't really care about it that much. Here are some pics of the finished product! (i ended up making a second one because really liked the look and wanted to have a second one in my case) Step #5: finishing everything up by reinstalling the HDD covers to my case and doing some cable management. So thats it! i really like the look and making this little mod. hope you guys like it too and maybe it inspires you to repurpose something like i did. I'm really looking forward to making more case mods in the future. Let me know what you think! Cheers
  4. Hello all, I have a Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 R5 (rev. 1.0) with the F2 BIOS and I would like to have NVME support. Firstly, if there are any already-made modded BIOS' out there could you share them with me please? If not, I was hoping for some guidance on how to get into this myself. The only comprehensive guides I've seen so far are for Intel chipsets. https://www.win-raid.com/t871f50-Guide-How-to-get-full-NVMe-support-for-all-Systems-with-an-AMI-UEFI-BIOS.html At the moment, I'm looking at this one ^ but it's a tad daunting and pretty huge. I'm not looking for someone to give me the sparknotes version (though if you did that'd be cool too), but I'd love any helpful advice/tricks/tips from anyone who's done this sort of thing before. I'm looking to use a Seagate Firecuda 510 M.2 SSD as a boot drive through a Vantec PCIe x4 adapter. The rest of my hardware is: AMD FX9590 CPU Kingston Savage DDR3-1866 (16GB) RAM Zotac Nvidia GTX 1060 GPU EVGA 850 G2 PSU
  5. I have a 5k iMac from late 2015 and I am wondering if there is a way to use it as a second monitor. It doesn't have to be ok with apple, I would be okay doing some hacking. I think this should be looked into, but I can’t find anyone trying to do this. Maybe from a lack of tech savvy people owning iMacs.
  6. I'm new so... Hello from Spain!! Ok, now to the problem, I've got an Asus Rog Zephyrus S GX701GWR, it has 16GB of soldered ram on the motherboard and it has a single free ram slot for adding another module, it has a single M.2 slot (M key) with a 500GB NVME Intel 660p connected to it and the problem is that I'm running low in space. I partitioned it in 2 partitions of 250GB each one and applied a deduplication mod on the second partition to save even more space. but I need more storage and the only way is getting a bigger M.2 ssd, wich is more expensive than getting a same size disk to double the storage. It doen't have any mpcie slot, the wifi chip is also soldered. I checked it in HWINFO and I got this about the slot: PCI Express x4 Bus #2 Intel SSD 660p NVMe Controller [General Information] Device Name: Intel SSD 660p NVMe Controller Original Device Name: Intel SSD 660p NVMe Controller Device Class: NVMe Controller Revision ID: 3 PCI Address (Bus:Device:Function) Number: 2:0:0 PCI Latency Timer: 0 Hardware ID: PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_F1A8&SUBSYS_390D8086&REV_03 [PCI Express] Version: 3.0 Maximum Link Width: 4x Current Link Width: 4x Maximum Link Speed: 8.0 GT/s Current Link Speed: 8.0 GT/s Device/Port Type: PCI Express Endpoint Slot Implemented: No Emergency Power Reduction: Not Supported Active State Power Management (ASPM) Support: L1 Active State Power Management (ASPM) Status: Disabled L0s Exit Latency: 512 ns - 1 us L1 Exit Latency: 4 - 8 us Maximum Payload Size Supported: 128 bytes Maximum Payload Size: 128 bytes [System Resources] Interrupt Line: N/A Interrupt Pin: INTA# Memory Base Address 0 A4200000 [Features] Bus Mastering: Enabled Running At 66 MHz: Not Capable Fast Back-to-Back Transactions: Not Capable [Driver Information] Driver Manufacturer: Intel Driver Description: Intel(R) SSD 660p Series Driver Provider: Intel Driver Version: 4.4.0.1003 Driver Date: 16-May-2019 DeviceInstanceId PCI\VEN_8086&DEV_F1A8&SUBSYS_390D8086&REV_03\4&2B946EEE&0&00E8 Location Paths PCIROOT(0)#PCI(1D00)#PCI(0000) So the M.2 slot works at 4x so I thought about connecting something to get 2 M.2 slots so I can connect 2 SSDs, because I think 4x speeds are enough for 2 SSDs with less than 2GB/s speeds each one, so what I'm looking for is a single M.2 to dual M.2 adapter, but I don't know if that adapter exists. Any ideas? Thanks.
  7. Hi guys. This mod, which is my first mod, i am doing because i love modding and i decided to do my own mod. This mod is made for my new PC to fit in because i my old case can't fit my new GPU and I want to have something unique. The Mod will be ROG themed. I will post my works here and ask some questions as i am a newcomer in modding.
  8. Let me start by saying I love the H2100 headset. I got it for 50 bucks on corsair refurb. Recently I wanted a new headset because of my battery life and the boom mic being all loose. So I took it apart and I will show you what I have done. This tutorial is for semi advanced users, just take your time and be careful. These little batteries if not handled carefully can be dangerous. This is my first post, I hope I can help someone out there. First to deal with the boom mic problem...... I have had my headset so long that it has actually worn out the little nubs on the detentes. So i took an exact-o knife and cleaned up the nubs and then took a pointy soldering iron and made deeper grooves. Then cleaned up the grooves. As you can see in the first two photos. Then I tightened up that Phillips screw that holds that arm and now its nice and tight and the boom mic doesn't flop around. Now to the battery upgrade. There is a silly little 680mAh lipo in there. So I said to myself I bet i could fit a nice 18650 battery with a 2800mAh lipo. Turn on soldering iron again, and take out the battery and unplug. Step one: take the right ear cup apart. Step two: Turn on soldering iron again, and take out the battery and unplug and take battery completely out. Step three: You need to take the platform that holds the battery, it should look something like this, after your done. Step four: Test fit battery Make sure the battery is lying flat, check this by putting the ear cup back on top and make sure it sits flush. Step five: disassemble the old battery, we need the battery management system and the connector from the little battery. This little board is the charge controller. Step six: cut the battery off of the little pcb board. Be superrrrr careful this little battery packs a lot of punch! Do not touch any wires together. Anyway after you cut the battery off solder some wires onto the pads, as you can see i have sharpied the right hand side there with black indicating negative. Also you can tell from the wire colors and where they go. Step seven: get some little short wires and solder them to the battery and to the BMS board. I would highly recommend buying one single legit 1860 with tabs on it, mine happens to be a LG. Step eight: Put the battery in there and tuck the bms board in there and plug it back in. Also the BMS board had some kapton tape on it, put that back on or tape up the board so it doesnt do fun things. I realise now that you should also put a piece of from in there so the battery doesn't rattle around. Before you close everything up make sure you check all the wires and stuff, these batteries are very torquey! I hope you enjoyed my mod to my 2100's I thought i should post because I haven't seen anyone post anything like this before. Now I have one of the best and affordable longest lasting wireless headsets. I have not done any testing yet because I just did this but I can post with an update with new battery life times!
  9. Hello everyone to start this all off im new and would like to introduce myself Hi my name is Nate or you can use my tag would be great... :-+ Soooo.OOO Recently purchased an Acer Aspire 5 A515-51-563W it was one of those purchases that you just cannot afford to make... I found it BRAND NEW still in the box at a pawn shop and was actually for once looking for something that I could use to replace all my other devices as what ive been resorting to computer wise is nothing short of just that short Raspberry Pi, Android OS Builds, and of course my phone. I have multiple other systems that i would have been able to build but not really anything that would be even close. So my plans with this computer is to do as much to it to make it run as much better as I can while doing so I also plan to make it look pretty freakin cool. Well so far ive added an 8gb of DDR4 PC4-17000 and a 128gb nvme m.2 system drive and have removed all software from the hard drive to it so that my system will run faster and let me tell you ive done so and when playing UT this computer actually keeps up ok I dont really do alot of gaming but do enjoy it. Including the ram boost once Turbo Boost Kicks in ive tuned this thing core at 2.98gz then boost at 3.21gz this thing does a pretty good job of running well and still yet to slow down at all ill put up benchmarks and keep this updated as well as pictures finally last night was able to pull the computer apart and upgrade the keyboard from a regular one to a backlit one and a dope colorful key mat very nice looking and presentable while still showing some style. Hope to keep up with the community here and maybe get a chance to meet some of you. thanks Nate.Net
  10. Hi, So basically, before bying it, I was wondering if it is possible to replace the tubing on the Castle 240 RGB by DEEPCOOL for clear flexible tubing? As anyone ever done it? Because i looked for it on internet and found nothing. Thank you for your time!
  11. The TACH/RPM signal from a after marked fan is two pulses per revolution. It's "open collector", so the fan provides a pulsed ground connection at described rate. This signal is used to control a P channel mosfet ( Q1 ) that is used to turn optocoupler ( U1 ) off and on. U1 delivers voltage in pulses to the smoothing network ( D1,R1,R2 and C1). It takes 3.5 seconds to discharge C1 down to 6 volts from 12V DC. From what I have read, rotation detect is a simple DC voltage signal. Sadly I have no possibility to test the circuit out, but it should work on HP ML series towers from G5 to at least G8. I don't know if it will work on other models. It should be fairly easy to make a test setup on a Veroboard/stripboard or similar. The HP fan connector can be salvaged from a dead fan, and used to connect to the motherboards fan connector. I take NO responsibility if anyone destroys their motherboard testing this circuit! HP fan connector pin out: Standard PWM 4 pin pinout: Circuit schematic:
  12. lochalpha

    Pelican Rig

    So my gaming buddy got a new job that takes him all over the place for weeks at a time which puts a dent in my quality gaming time. He was going to buy a gaming laptop but he doesn't actually need a battery, just portable power so I proposed a solution: The Pelican Rig. I wanted to build something that would offer power at least equivalent to a decent gaming laptop that was 1) Still portable 2) Cheaper 3) UPGRADABLE in the future. We decided straight off that a Pelican case offered the sturdy handled portability that we were looking for and went with the Pelican 1500. We also decided that we didn't want to drill any holes in the pelican case to the exterior that would compromise the water-tight seal. We wanted a built in screen and, in a perfect world, enough room to store the keyboard and mouse inside. To start, I cut a 16ga plain steel sheet to size. This plate is what the entire computer will "hang" from. It will form the rigid structure that all of the other components will attach to. I don't have a machine shop so this is hand cut with an angle grinder and dremel. This is the first pass before any smoothing/sanding. The plate will be held in by Peli-quick mounts which will be bonded to the inside of the case with a polypropylene approved epoxy. I'm using Makerbeam 10mm extruded aluminum beams for most of the interior framework. They're strong and adjustable. I needed something flat and small to power this guy as I want to maintain as much airflow as possible so I went with a SeaSonic SS-400L1U 400W Single Server Power Supply. The limitation here is that it will only support a single 6pin powered PCI-E video card. That is a limitation we decided we could live with. Testing the fit of the 3 80mm exhaust fans (Noctua NF-R8 Redux) that will be mounted over the PSU. There will be 3 more on the other side as intakes hopefully creating a decent windtunnel. Next up I added some framing to the plate. I used some aluminum angle stock to add rigidity to the steel plate and give me some nice hard-points to mount things to. The screws will eventually be replaced with 1/8th inch rivets and all holes filled but I wanted to keep everything in pieces for now so that changes can be made and drilling mounting holes will be easier. Testing the fit of the PSU before drilling mounting holes. So far so good. More to follow.
  13. Inspired myself from this video of Linus. Not too sure if in the right place, but it does say "and other mods", so... Onto the thread. My GPU’s fans have always been noisy, especially the one near the power connectors, it made a rattling sound as the speed went up during usage. I was enduring it until now, but for some reason, today things took a turn and the noise became unbearable to me. So I inspired myself from the linked video above and attempted to mod it with normal Noctua 120mm fans(good old NF-P12) that I had laying around from my old PC. Because obviously, instead of doing the sensible thing, which would be to just buy new replacement GPU fans for it on ebay like I had done once in the past already, it's much better to do it the Linus way. Well first of all, disassembly, it was simple, just remove the rear IO metal slot bracket, or however it's called, to gain access to the two tiny screws holding the plastic shroud on that side and two other screw on the rear end. It comes off just like that, fans and all. (Picture above was already all unscrewed, had forgotten to take a picture so I put it back together for a quick pic, hence why it looks crooked, ) Ain't she a beauty, with her top off like that? Then I attempted to unplug the fans without removing the entire heatsink, as would be proper, in order to get a proper grip on the connector. Because who has time for that. I fucked it up and destroyed it. No going back now boys! At this point, I found out that the fan holes of my fans... were slightly too small for my zip ties… (Heck, I consider myself lucky for even finding these massive zip ties... they literally were the last ones in the house... should've planned this beforehand) Alright, no problem, lets take out the drill. As it turns out, the drill bit that I had initially taken out was too small to properly enlarge the holes of the fans for the zip ties. So I took out the big and shiny, silver drill bit and enlarged the holes of those poor fans. ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) I didn't forget to clean out any left over residues on the fans with a metal brush. Wouldn't want that crap on the PCB or falling into a PCI-e slot. Holes enlarged and primed for the zip ties, it is time to mount the fans onto the GPU. (Of course, I dusted the heatsink first, but I didn't replace the thermal paste. I would've, had I removed it at an earlier step to disconnect the fans... But as you know, I didn't ) I think I've done a good job with that, no? Their holes had been loosened enough for two zip ties to fit in the same hole at the same time, so I just linked the left fan to the right fan in the middle, instead of having a zip tie go under the card and potentially interfering with the pci-e slot's locking mechanism. It's holding up just fine and is quite tight. All that remained was to shove it back into the case, link up both fans with a Y fan connector from Noctua and off to the races we go! (Yes, lots of beige and poop brown in this computer, what can I say... aesthetics don't give better performances, it's functional and that's all that matter to me. I wouldn't have put that ugly foam noise dampening on the side panels if I cared for aesthetics, too) I must say, it worked nicely. My PC is now quieter than ever, since the loudest component in there had been the GPU ever since I built my current PC and reused my old GPU. I plugged them in the Sys_Fan2 header on the motherboard, also made sure to disable any sort of fan control on it in the BIOS. Initially I had used a low noise adapter, but boy was that a mistake, temps were super high super quick. After removing that adapter, temps are actually slightly better than they were with the stock fans. Before, at IDLE, it was sitting at about 53˚C. Now it's 47˚C. I do have one, tiny, insignificant issue with it now, though. You see... 3 minutes of furmark results in temps of 96˚C. (used the stopwatch on my phone to precisely know how long it took to get there) And that wasn't the peak either, I just stopped it there because I didn't want to risk damaging it. Now, I know furmark isn't an indicative of real world scenario. But still, barely 3 minutes of a stress test... of which it could easily do an hour before without any issues. As such, I went and actually played three game for about 5 to 10 minutes each. Temps are much better. Borderlands : The Pre-Sequel leaves the GPU at a nice 66˚C even after 10+ minutes. Minecraft Java Edition with a ton of mods (MCeternal) barely reach 62˚C... Turns out, not a GPU intensive games without graphic mods, who knew. Temps went up to 78˚C in Final Fantasy 15, from just walking around on my Chocobo for a few minutes in an open area. Then the game crashed when I alt-tabbed to check the temps so fuck that game. A buggy Square-Enix PC game you say? No way, can't be. Honestly, I don't know if I can call this a success or not. Noise levels are down significantly compared to before and sure, I can't run stress tests on it anymore... but from testing the few games I played on it, temps seems to be fine for gaming. But it remains to be seen for when I actually do play for longer periods of time than just 10 minutes. That said, I don't play much games these days, I honestly hadn't launched FF15 since 2018 according to the last achievement I got on it (yes, it was fully updated on Steam). All in all, I would probably do this mod again if given the opportunity. It's basically free to do if you have old fans laying around. And if it ends up failing, well, it will give me an excuse to finally go out and buy a new graphic card.
  14. I have a Gigabyte GTX 1070 G1 Gaming and doing a fan mod. The fans I am using are be quiet 120mm Shadow Wings 3 high speed pwm. I've been having trouble with mounting the 2 fans. So I am thinking of making clips. What could I use? Also, I found a pic of someone who has done a fan mod on this card.
  15. I've been searching around for anyone who seems to have taken apart the new(ish) Corsair ML Series Fans. I was unable to find any definitive answers on how to do it exactly, so I took the initiative and tried it myself. I was partially successful in the fact that I was able to disassemble it, however in putting it back together, it doesn't spin as well as it should and when I plugged it into one of my motherboards to test how it worked, it didn't spin at all. I've laid out the steps that I did to disassemble the fan's below in case anyone wants to re-attempt it and try to fix where I went wrong or just for anyone who is curious. I figured since I couldn't find anyone who had done it, I would put it out there so others could find it. I have attached pictures as my description might not be clear enough by itself. The first thing that I did was remove the stickers from the front and the back. This didn't really give me any ideas on how to continue, so I probed around the holes on the back of the fan hoping to figure out how it was fastened in the frame. I noticed a white tab inside one of the openings, so I toyed around with it until it finally broke off. Next, I turned my attention to the area where the cable was plugged into and noticed a smaller white tab underneath the frame in this location as well. I couldn't quite reach it with any of the tools that I had around me. Not making any progress, I grudgingly broke out my Dremel to see if I could carefully remove some of the back frame to open up the back of the fan to try and get a better angle or open up something new for me to fiddle with. Unfortunately, I got a little carried away and ended up removing the fan from the case entirely. However, the PCB was still connected and so was a small part of the frame. So I continued to cut away the frame piece until I was able to remove the PCB. It turns out that there are four white tabs located around the center of the fan to hold in the PCB. I then started shaving down the center of the frame located on the back of the fan. I was able to remove the "back plate" of the fan frame and saw the usual pin on the back of the fan. Realizing that this was what I was looking for, I began to attempt to remove the fan from the coil. I eventually ended up using a small socket (it was included in my 64 Bit Driver iFixit kit) that was able to fit over the pin and into the hole. I used a hammer to tap the socket further onto the pin. I'm not sure what sort of fastener holds the fan onto the coil (or vice versa), but it took my quite a while to get to the point where I could pull the fan off just like any other SP or AP Corsair fan. Now at this point, the fan is basically useless except to see how it was put together. So I used all the knowledge that I gained with this fan and started on a second, hoping to disassemble it without completely destroying it. The first thing that I did with this second fan was try and drill out the center of the back to gain access to the fan pin. Drilling it out was easy, but there was lots of debris that was still attached to the walls of the drill hole, so I had to scrape this off to get a clean look at the pin. Then I was able to hammer in the socket onto the pin and pull the fan off as stated above. This time, there was only a small hole in the back of the fan that is easily covered up if someone wanted to put a sticker over it. (ignore the other smaller holes in the picture. They were from an earlier experiment when I thought that the white tabs were the key to disassembly.) Now that I had gotten the fan off of the frame with little damage actually done, I was curious to see if I could re-assemble it to fully functional. I popped the fan back into the frame, and it stayed. However, the fan did not spin as loosely as it had before. I plugged it into one of my motherboards and tried to test it out, but it didn't spin at all. I'm thinking that maybe during my attempts to free the fan from the case, I messed up the PCB and killed the fan, but I'm not sure. So there it is. How to disassemble the Corsair ML Series Fans. Maybe somebody can use this and expand upon it and figure out where I went wrong to get the fan to work at the end of all of this.
  16. So I am wanting to do a not SO complicated little project but I dont know where to start. Im wanting to take a AMD Prism Cooler and take the fan off and hang it on my wall. I need to power the fan through a wall port. And I also need to control it through my computer. How would I go about doing this. Its a little bit of a mod and I am new to the scene.
  17. im trying to mod a reference vega64 with a much more powerful fan. replaced blower with new fan. wired new fans PWM wire to GPU. the fan speed changed with Radeon software fan curve BUT it was inverted. eg: as the GPU gets hotter, the fan spins slower. Radeon software wont let you go from fast to slow, so I cant just invert the fan curve to make it work. is there anyway around this like an alternative software or a registry edit or something? I would be extremely grateful for any advice or suggestions on this because ive been working on this project for months and am so close to making it work.
  18. Original design 1st rough concept 2nd rough concept I've been frequently using media control ever since I upgraded to W10. I assigned play/pause to one of the macro buttons of my mouse. Spotify is nearly always on, when I want to watch something I don't go back to Spotify app, I just simply click one button and it stops and sometimes I also use the media overlay to adjust the volume. But you see, it affects the whole system wide volume. So having a seperate volume bar for the current media player would be something that would benefit me. I'm more towards the second design in which he volume bar on the left controls speaker volume and the one on the right controls only the application being played. I'm already using EarTrumpet but I'd prefer something more like the media overlay for convenience. Btw if you know a mod/tweak that can do this please inform me. I'm all about that tweaking/modding life.
  19. Is there any guides or techniques on how to remove the top plastic of the keyboard? I am really scared on prying the top covered.
  20. GrGgamer

    Minecraft mod

    Hello guys, Not so long ago I got an idea of a mod related to PC hardware. I searched on the net if something similar exists, but there isn't any. After some planning I made a mod for minecraft 1.14.4, and I keep updating it ever since with new interesting stuff. What do you think guys, would there be an interest for this kind of mod? By the way here is the link for my mod: https://mcreator.net/modification/58617/hardware-craft If you have any suggestions/ideas just leave a comment. P.S.: Sorry for my bad English.
  21. Hey everyone, I have a Dell XPS 8700. I want to mod or upgrade if I can, its completely bone stock and I'm wondering if it would be better to completely tear it out and rebuild or just replace certain things, and I've never built PC. I dont know where start.... what's the first thing I should think about if I want to build one? The motherboard, the CPU, how much power do I need? What is the foundation?
  22. I am looking to pay someone to CNC the top and front panel of my case for better airflow. I know modmymods.com sells them, but the designs aren't to appealing to me. LMK if you are interested!!
  23. Hi I was wondering if you guys could suggest in the UK a company that can make custom cables but I’ve tried the ones that people will naturally suggest they don’t offer 10 to 15 cm and my second question is does this make any changes to the actual power in and output? Basically with it from my motherboard? I have an SF 600 psu. As you can see on photo. I need so little not 30cm. thank you.
  24. Here's another mod I worked on a while ago.. Wanted to make a generic laptop case (from a German manufacturer called Nexoc) a little more interesting with CS:GO's notorious Asiimov weapon skin.
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