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  1. I have noticed the indicator lighting up when I wasn't speaking and my friends have heard what they describe as(and I agree) to be what sounds like ATC radio communications or something similar coming through my microphones at random times. I have tried to wrap the preamp and the microphone to see if that helps to cancel out a little bit of the noise to see if thats where it is coming from but didn't seem to change much. I have an AT2020 microphone with a Focusrite scarlet solo preamp that connects to my computer. It is a USB-USB-C from the computer to the preamp, and then XLR from the focusrite to the microphone. I have swapped out the cable for a Sweetwater Pro-Co XRM-10 cable to try to fix it when I originally noticed it. I have also put some ferrite beads around the cord to attempt to get rid of it as well, but also to no avail. Any assistance would be of great help as I have run out of ideas on what could actually be causing it anymore.
  2. I have a very strange popping/pulse sound occurring in the signal of my Blue Yeti USB Mic. Below is a recording taken from Audacity - 10 seconds background ambience, then 10 seconds of humming (when the clicking/popping/"pulse" begins), and 10 final seconds of ambience again. It seems that something is interfering with the signal beyond a certain level? This problem is present whether I am just monitoring through Windows 11, monitoring through OBS Studio, or recording in Audacity, but only when it actually receives signal louder than ambience. Any ideas on things I should try? Windows, drivers, etc are up to date, have tried system restart, PC has been used for only two days. I do have a FiiO external sound card connected but this would/should only effect my output (speakers or headphones) as the mic is connected directly to the PC via USB. I also use voicemeeter banana to route some things to a second desktop audio channel to keep them from airing on stream. Not sure either would have any relevance but trying to provide thorough info. This microphone works perfectly fine on a second PC (with exact same configuration in terms of software and connected devices); this one is just built and upon switching to it is when this problem manifested. Any suggestions or thoughts are appreciated. I have tried connecting it to different USB ports away from any other USB connections, I have tried disabling my WiFi, I have tried disabling voicemeeter, I have tried lowering gain in windows, I have tried tweaking power settings, all to no avail. Old system is Win10, I think with an RX 580. New system is Win11 and has a 4080/13900k (so it's probably drawing a bit more power, and has more sophisticated cooling with an AIO and six case fans). Just before posting this, I connected sound card, mic, peripherals etc to old PC to fire it up and make sure the cable/blue yeti didn't just develop a new problem. It is still perfectly clear and crisp on the old system, but this clicking noise won't seem to go away no matter what I try on the new machine. Before I give up and order a new microphone, I'd greatly appreciate anyone with any insight on this pointing me in the right direction/towards anything they think could help. I've been digging reddit/google etc all day and I'm running out of places to turn. Thank you for taking time out of your day to try to help me. Mirror of audio file (.wav attached): https://whyp.it/tracks/95918/weirdpopping30s?token=D2hpb weirdpopping30s.wav
  3. (I have posted this on Reddit's TechSupport sub, but I thought here could be a good place too! So this is basically just copypasted from there lmao. Also sorry for phatt text) My audio setup right now consists of:- PC (Voicemeeter) --> Aorus X570 Elite (built-in soundchip, rear line out) --> 3.5mm-to-RCA --> Yamaha R-N602 --> Bookshelf speakers/headphones -- also MSI RTX 2070Super, fwiw Now, it's harder to notice when listening through speakers, but when plugging headphones into the reciever and listening to the PC's output, there is an audible whine. What I eventually noticed, is that whenever something happens on the PC screen, whenever content being displayed changes - I scroll a window, I move the cursor, I hover over a link and the displayed pixels change - there is a buzzing sound on top of the whine. This extra interference only happens whenever something happens on screen. Which leads me to believe they are linked.I have heard that sometimes, motherboard soundchips can get intereference from the video card ? Which in this case would make sense as the interference is worse when things are happening on-screen, i.e, the graphics card. So, on the rear of the Yamaha receiver, there are the RCA inputs. I have a turntable plugged into the PHONO, and my PC's 3.5mm to RCA plugged into Line 1 (I mentioned this because the sound is also audible when switching to the Phono output on the reciever, almost like all the RCA ports are linked. Other types of output are not affected). So I am wondering, what can I do about this? I am using an external receiver, so it seems like the problem is occuring before the sound is even leaving my PC. So this issue would also carry over into other DACs and Amps right? How do I prevent it? EDIT IN RESPONSE TO A COMMENT:- I've done a little more looking round, and I seem to have found a thing called 'coil whine'? Which seems to be the term for the interference from the electronic components, especially between the GPU + motherboard. Most sources say the big annoying thing about coil whine is that it's audible THROUGH the PC case from the components. I don't notice that as much due to ambient sounds etc. So it seems like this coil whine is 'leaking' into the audio signal ? Another thing with coil whine was, people said it is noticible at high FPS. My monitor is 165Hz. So I did a little test, and I dropped the refresh rate to 60Hz, and I noticed that the whine I was hearing changed. It was still there, but almost like its frequency changed. I could almost hear dicrete buzzes, where once the refresh rate was raised to 165 again, these discrete 'buzzes' merged into one sound, due to the increasing frequency(?). If that makes sense? So just another pointer that this looks like what I am dealing with. I dug out and plugged in this little USB PnP sound device. I thought this would be a step in the right direction, since the output is being moved away from the noisy components, but the whine was still audible when connecting my 3.5mm-to-RCA into the USB device, and the RCA end into Line 1 of my reciever. I tried both front and rear USB ports, with the whine in all of them. I'm just thinking of options, and which ones would work. I don't know the quality of that USB sound dongle lol, so perhaps a ~new cheapo USB sound card --> reciever~ would be okay? Or those ferrite cable clips? (I do actually have an interface for my XLR microphone! But I only ever use the microphone for things like Discord calls etc, rather than recording so I never actually get to hear if any whine is present in that lol (however never had any complaints), and I have noticed that my mic interface's USB cable has one of those built in, perhaps controlling the whine of my mic input..?) I was thinking of getting a decent desktop USB DAC, but I don't want to spend on one of those if this whine will just carry on over into that too..!!
  4. We have 3 PCs in a room over the garage and I suspect a combination of somethings (not just one thing due to inconsistencies isolating variables) is putting out enough Radio Interference to drown out our garage door opener at 315 MHz. Does anyone know of common sources, problems, fixes etc on the PCs themselves to eliminate or reduce the noise? I'm going to line the ceiling of the garage with aluminum foil this weekend in the hope of blocking the RF, unless the computers are somehow turning my house electrical wiring into an antenna and it's going thru the walls . . .
  5. I have a bit of a weird setup going. The overall goal is to have two PCs partially sharing audio. The ideal setup is to have PC1 receive all audio from PC2, but PC2 only receives the audio from the mic attached PC1. I have gotten this to work, but I get a lot of interference. I am far from an audio expert so I have no idea what kind of interference this is (Audio sample in youtube video below). I would like to know if there may be something inherent to my setup that would cause this, or otherwise a way to filter out the interference. The primary issue is the audio coming from PC2 speaker port (combo speaker/mic?) to PC1 line in, so everything below, unless otherwise specified, is referring to that. Sample of interference: https://youtu.be/AoGPely77v0 1 The “Sabrent” mentioned below is this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8 1 PC1 has a USB DAC for my headphones and mic. PC1 Line in is connected to PC2 Sabrent USB speakers (combo port?) with a 3.5mm cable. PC1 is set to “listen to” line in and playback through the USB DAC with windows control panel sound. I have tried using Equalizer APO, following this video(https://youtu.be/hXstcXqNvPo) which does negate most of the noise, but only when applied to my USB DAC (an output), which effects all audio, and is something I don’t want. Sadly when applying it to Line in, nothing happens, which must mean windows listen/playback happens before Equalizer APO can do its thing. Latency is not an issue, as long as it is consistent, as voice, and in theory only voice, will be coming in on line in. Please do let me know if more details and what additional details would help.
  6. So a couple days ago, I started having issues with my WiFi connection, which happens quite often. My average speeds are around 30-35mbits, but now they dropped down below 1mbit, which never happens. And all devices were affected by it. I accidentally found out it was my PC causing the interference, when I turned it off, and went back on my phone, out of anger. And then I realized the speeds are back up on their averages. I started diagnosing it further, by disabling WiFi on my PC but keeping it enabled on my phone and performing speed tests. During said tests I would disable the WiFi on my PC and that's when the speeds would instantly skyrocket back up to the 30mbit range, and once WiFi was enabled, it would drop down below 1mbit. I researched further and saw people having the same issue and realizing their ground is messed up. I then plugged the PC in another outlet, that's seperated from the previous circuit, however the issue persists. I tried using my phone as a hotspot, with Wi-Fi Sharing enabled, passing the WiFi signal through my phone. Speeds plummeted just as much. Using USB Tethering fixed the issue, for some reason, however it's really impractical for me, as USB tethering has ping penalties, which goes as high as 250ms in games like CS:GO, Valorant, etc. I've also reinstalled WiFi drivers, which hasn't fixed the issue. Sadly, the only connectivity option for me is to use WiFi, as the router is hooked up downstairs. I really don't want to invest into any equipment at the moment, unless I won't have a choice. For future reference, I'm using a GIGABYTE H170N-WIFI motherboard. Hope someone can help me out!
  7. Introduction Audio interference (as defined below under "Symptoms") is a defect in a system due to hardware, software or firmware problems. It is not an inevitable consequence of using an integrated audio codec or sound card. Purchase of a sound card or external DAC is not necessary to fix this issue in most cases. STEP 1: Sanity Check (START HERE FIRST) Before diving into an exhaustive troubleshooting process, do some basic pre-checks: Ensure that audio connectors are inserted into the correct jack (headphones in headphone jack, speakers in line-out) Ensure that audio connectors have the right wiring for the given jack (e.g. 3-pin plug to 3-pin jack, 4-pin to 4-pin, etc) Ensure audio connectors are fully and firmly inserted into audio jacks Ensure that software or drivers are properly configured (headphone mode for headphones, speaker mode for speakers) IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure that your system supports the type of device you are using. If you are using headphones, make sure that your audio source supports headphones and is CONFIGURED to support headphones. A "tinny" sound may mean that you are trying to use headphones while your audio is in speaker mode. Symptoms Audio interference manifests as any of the following sounds coming through speakers, headphones, or other audio recording and playback equipment. Coil whine coming directly from a power supply, GPU, or motherboard capacitor is not audio interference, although it may be related. Continuous static, clicks, crackles, or pops; Rice Crispy sounds Static or buzzing when moving the mouse, typing on the keyboard, or accessing physical drives Static, buzzing, or crackling when in a game or during other heavy 3D workloads Continuous hum or buzz around 60Hz and/or its harmonics Intermittent buzzing that may follow a regular pattern Possible Causes The canned solution to audio interference is to get an external DAC or soundcard. This advice frequently results in needless expenditure and may not even address the underlying problem. STEP 2: Diagnostic Process As audio interference may be caused by an enormous range of problems, the purpose of diagnostics is to narrow down the proximate cause in as systematic fashion as possible. At this point do not directly attempt to solve the problem. Perform each check in the following list. If the audio interference issue goes away, you have likely identified the cause. In some cases, no further steps may be required. If the troubleshooting step fixes the issue but is not practical for normal use (such as booting in Windows Safe Mode or disabling an overclock), consult the corresponding Solutions and Workarounds section below. FIRST STEPS: Test different headphones/speakers on the system AND test the same headphones/speakers on a different system This will determine if the problem is related to your system or your headphones/speakers Test all audio jacks/USB ports, both on the case and on the rear motherboard IO panel A jack or port may be bad Reduce system master volume and/or game master volume from 100% to 75-80% For microphones: reduce volume and turn down gain/boost if available Disable all audio effects in the Windows Sound and Audio Devices Properties Audio effects in the Windows mixer reduce quality and can cause interference Check for Driver and Software Issues: Try different settings in the audio drivers control panel or system audio settings Ensure that if you are using headphones that your audio is in headphone mode Ensure that if your audio settings have an impedance or gain setting that it is not too high or too low Boot Windows in Safe Mode; if the interference stops it is likely caused by a driver On Windows 7, 8, or 10, install LatencyMon to determine the responsible driver On Windows XP or Vista, install DPC Latency Checker. You will need to systematically disable devices in hardware manager to narrow down the cause. Disable unused audio devices in the Windows Device Manager Check Task Manager for resource hogs and real-time priority processes Perform a full virus scan Check for Power Management Issues: Disable C1E (Enhanced halt state) and EIST (Intel SpeedStep) in BIOS Set Windows Power Plan to Power Saver or High Performance Disable all overclocks (CPU, GPU, RAM, etc) Check for Hardware Issues: Disable unused/non-essential motherboard components at the BIOS level, such as NICs or RAID/SATA controllers Disconnect ALL non-audio peripherals (including mouse, keyboard, and display) Disconnect front audio header and use motherboard rear-panel or sound card; if you are already using rear-panel audio, try front-panel instead Remove discrete graphics cards Remove discrete soundcard Check for Electrical Shorts and Grounding Issues: Remove case side panels; check for unwanted electrical contact between components such as wires and electrical contacts Disconnect front audio header Verify that the motherboard is firmly secured. Standoffs and screws should be firm. Ensure the motherboard is firmly seated in the IO plate, and that the IO plate is firmly seated in the case. Verify that the power supply is properly secured in the case and that it is connected to a grounded (3-prong) outlet Check for Wireless Interference: Relocate possible sources of EMI/RFI interference away from the computer and audio equipment (wireless access points, wireless peripherals, mobile phones, microwave ovens, etc) Unplug other appliances that may be source of interference over AC power This includes but is not limited to: household appliances, dimmer light switches, and other computers Connect the system a different AC wall socket, preferably on a different circuit breaker Check External Cabling: Try switching out audio signal or data transmission cables for working spares If experiencing interference in only one channel of a multi-channel system, swap the channel cables Move AC power cables as far away as possible from audio and digital cables, and eliminate parallel runs where possible Swap compatible AC power cables or switch them out for a working spare Check Electrical Wiring: Obtain and use an AC wall socket tester (usually available for less than $10); if issues are found, try a different outlet or re-wire If you do not have a socket tester, try plugging your system into another outlet, preferably a kitchen or bathroom GFCI outlet, which are generally required to be grounded by code STEP 3: Solutions and Workarounds Audio Settings: Disable microphone gain or effects in the Windows Sound and Audio Devices Properties Test different sampling rates in the Windows Sound and Audio Devices Properties; for example 16 vs 24 bit, 44.1kHz vs 192kHz. Audio Device Conflict: Disable unused audio devices in the Windows Sound and Audio Devices Properties OR Windows Device Manager This includes the HDMI audio output included on many GPUs Disable unused recording devices in the Windows Sound and Audio Devices Properties OR Windows Device Manager Peripherals: Try peripherals in different USB ports Add-on Cards: Move add-on cards, including GPU, and ensure they are properly seated Re-seat auxiliary power cables Use different power harness combinations if available from power supply Ensure that motherboard and IO plate are properly seated (grounded) Disable SLI and remove one card; re-boot and re-enable SLI Software: Disable unnecessary startup programs and services, especially those that are audio-related Exercise caution; some startup items might be essential to the proper function of your computer Drivers/BIOS: Flashing the BIOS or changing the CMOS can cause the memory and PCI performance to improve. Occasionally, this can cause performance to degrade. For more information about specific versions or for information about updates, please contact your motherboard manufacturer. Download and install latest audio drivers from motherboard manufacturer website You may need to use a beta driver or even downgrade in some situations Download and install latest graphics drivers from GPU manufacturer website You may need to use a beta driver or even downgrade in some situations Remove and reinstall default Windows audio drivers (uninstall device and scan for hardware changes in Windows Device Manager) Update other device drivers from motherboard manufacturer website For unused devices (SATA controllers, etc): Uninstall driver and disable device in BIOS or Windows Device Manager Update motherboard BIOS using latest downlaod from motherboard manufacturer website (use caution) Ensure that SATA devices are not conflicting with PCI memory resources. Changing to a different controller may help. Internal Cabling: Re-route AND/OR add shielding to the front audio header cable Try different power harness combinations from the power supply: for example, if using two PCIe power cables for a GPU, try a single cable with a splitter (if available) External Cabling: Move audio signal and data cables away from power cables and AC lines and/or ensure they intersect at 90 degree angles Use properly shielded 2.0 spec USB cables for audio: Tripp Lite USB 2.0 Hi-Speed A/B Cable with Ferrite Chokes Belkin Gold Series USB A to B Cable Replace defective AC power cables Tripp Lite Heavy Duty Computer Power Cord 14AWG 15A Verify that all wall-powered peripherals are plugged into the same outlet via an EMI/RFI filtered power strip See below under "Electrical wiring/Ground loop" for a more robust line filtering solution Electrical Wiring/Ground Loop: Verify that all wall-powered peripherals are plugged into the same outlet via an EMI/RFI filtered power strip: For more robust AC line filtering: Tripp Lite LC1200 Line Conditioner 1200W Purchase a ground loop isolator of the type appropriate for the audio connection that is causing the issue: PAC SNI-1 RCA Noise Isolator PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Noise Isolator HifimeDIY USB Isolator Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator If your electrical wiring is a fault, you may need to have it fixed by a qualified electrician Sources and References Creative Worldwide Support PS Audio: How to find and fix hum in 3 easy steps
  8. I'm quite new to audio equipment and I recently picked up a PreSonus Audiobox USB recording interface with an Audio Technica PRO 41 Microphone with XLR cable for $60AUD (Bargain!) When I use the microphone through Skype, Sound Recorder etc it only records or comes out of the left hand channel is there a way to change this? When the Mic is plugged into a Guitar Amp it works as it should in Mono. I had a guess that it was picking up the two channels and outputting them as L and R, I do not seem to be able to isolate the channels either within windows or on the device (Refer to picture) - All drivers installed and updated - Studio One software installed - Standard 3m XLR cable from Mic to AudioBox Interface - Audiobox connected via USB Can you install some kind of virtual mic that converts it to stereo? I have not had much luck on google and i'm a research fiend, tabs-a-plenty. Also I got this constant interference and clicking when the mic was on... The issue seemed to be that my WiFi router could not be on the same powerboard as my PC, is this sort of interference common? My whole house is basically piggybacked power boards (Not by choice, old 1900's house)
  9. I have some unusual static combined with a bit of low-level rapid pulsing that is being picked up by my wired speakers. I am next to a lot of wireless signals and cannot get away from them (includes phones and router plus wifi extenders and ect). So, how do I counter this through an insolating type method? Would a ferrit core work? Thank you for your help.
  10. Speakers in question: Yamaha HS5's https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-HS5-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B00CFOX420 Connected to my Asus Z270 Prime AR motherboard with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0YDAT2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The distortion / feedback in question: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C61kLqX458A&feature=youtu.be The distortion persist if I plug the monitors into the headphone jack. The distortion remains if I change the AC power outlets the speakers are plugged into. The distortion is almost completely gone when using the same cable plugged into a phone or other media device. The distortion worsens when I move my mouse over images on my desktop / youtube etc. Which leads me to believe it is distortion from a component on the motherboard. I was really hoping not to need to buy a DAC, but I cannot seem to place what is causing the interference. There is no phones or microwaves nearby, no wireless network card on the motherboard. Frustrated because I read the Asus Prime actually has fantastic sound, and I the Yamaha speakers are excellent. If I cannot find a way to remove the interference, these are the products I am considering to get. 1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A4PSEU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=BTC1IZBVIZJC&coliid=I3H0CT7IFPHNZU 2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EK1OTZC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=BTC1IZBVIZJC&coliid=I2RMKAQRMGX510 3. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFIGZF6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=BTC1IZBVIZJC&coliid=I1IBY5D10KC339 4. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYIP4IE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=BTC1IZBVIZJC&coliid=I3RENO4VIW5XA9 Lastly, why does this seem to be a problem for high end monitor speakers but is never a problem for really shitty computer speakers?
  11. My Fiio E10K has recently begun making electrical interference sounds, getting louder whenever I move the mouse. It started after my motherboard got surged a few weeks back, I've since got a new motherboard, CPU, RAM and case, yet the interference persists. I've tried it on my laptop and there is no interference at all, it also doesn't seem to happen when I use the line out on the E10K. I'm really stumped, it only seems to be there on my desktop, even after changing most of the components. Is it possible it is the power supply? I'm using an old one after my AX750 broke (causing the surge that began this annoyance), it seems like the logical explanation except for the interference ramping up when I move the mouse. Any help would be great, I'd rather not have to RMA another thing this month >.>
  12. Hi all i need some help troubleshooting a problem i cant fix. I am using a blue yeti microphone and whenever I record using audacity or windows 10 voice recorder there is this constant annoying beep noise on playback it is faint but very noticeable. it is also heard during recording but only when headphones are pluged in. however when I have headphones connected to it the audio is clear in real time when using the software or live calls on skype. but clicking record devices in task menu. results in the beep suddenly starting up. I have contacted blue mics sending them a sample of the noise I hear and there telling me my mic is maybe faulty and suggest a replacement without giving me much things to try to make sure that it actually is faulty. to many times in the past have I sent something off only to get it back and have the exact same problem happen because it was due to something else causing it. So before I go ahead with a replacement i want to make sure that is the case and not something else.. Iv seen a lot of other posts on google related to this issue but so far what I have tried has not changed anything..I'm getting very frustrated and really need some help getting rid of this noise. things i have tried so far disabling all c1 support options in bios enabling cpu +vrm speed spectrum in bios disconnecting everything from my pc but the mic trying all different formats ie 44100 (cd quality)etc testing on a laptop in another room connecting via front pc or rear pc usb connections turning gain levels up and down on mic and windows I have attached a sample of the sound i here when pressing record. first 3 seconds is raw audio the rest is amplified to here the sound better. system i5 3570k corsairh100i v2 asus sabertooth z77 motherboard (all drivers from the sabertooth download page) evga gtx 980ti samsung 840 evo 250gb (win 10 64bit) wdc wd1002faex 2tb wdc wd4004fzwx 4tb 2x8 DDR3 corsair vengence 1600mhz corsair hx1000 PSU corsairRGB strife keybord evga torq x10 mouse cerulian 2.0 7 port usb hub samsung UE48JU6400K noise.mp3
  13. I'm having a bit of an issue with the speakers I own. Whenever I want to use them when gaming I am constantly getting electrical feedback. I moved the speaker's line into the front of the computer away from the graphics card at the back which cut down 20% on noise but it still isn't playable, the noise put off by the speakers dwarfs the in game noises. Explosions are the only noise that can make it through but that in-game noise was drowned out in comparrison. The ONLY time the speakers are unusable is when I try to play a game, they don't emit a noise when watching youtube or when my phone is plugged into them (minus an almost inaudible hum when idol). I am using a set of 4 JBL LSR308's (good enough quality for me to keep most of the blame away from the speakers) and they are run in a 4-war stereo configuration (one side right noises and one side left noises). Is there a way to filter some of that noise out of the line from my computer? Possibly a DAC?
  14. I've been using a Behringer Xenyx Q502 mixer so I can hear my guitar through the headphone output on my amp, as well as my PC, at the same time. It's worked great, however just today I've noticed some really strange static/interference going on. It's always had a little static when you turn a channel's volume all the way up, but I haven't needed to, so that's fine. However now I've noticed that on about half volume on the output, what I normally use, I'm hearing some strange things. It's mostly when I manipulate the mouse. Scrolling up and down causes a faint, low pitched static sound, while just moving the cursor creates a higher pitched, very fax machine-esque buzz. Then when I run a game, or anything GPU intensive, those two things are totally drowned out by constant, much louder static. This is a real problem because even at 100% windows volume, I can barely hear the game I'm trying to play with the mixer turned low enough not to hear the constant static. Naturally I figured this was an issue with my motherboard's onboard sound, because it's related to things in or connected to my PC. However when I cut the mixer out of the equation and plugged my headphones straight into the PC, none of it's there, no matter how high I crank the volume. So... what gives? Is the mixer just garbage (I've had it for like 2 months!), or is there something I can do to fix this?
  15. Hello everyone, after searching all the forums and doing a bit if screwing around I have come to the point where I need to just ask for help. Thru the 3.5mm jacks in the front and rear and the USB port 2.0 and 3.0 with a dragonfly 1.5 on my desktop i hear interference thru the speakers . Popping Crackling and whining. When I plug audio setup into my laptop there is no interference so that rules out the amp. dac and speakers. I do have USB and connections on the motherboard where the graphics card covers so I unplugged all the internal USB and audio connectors. Interference still exists. when use the optical out on the motherboard using a Onkyo 9050a as a dac the interference goes away. i have noticed the graphics card is right over the chip and caps for the audio. but i would think this wouldn't matter when using a external USB dac. I am thinking about running a separate ground to the case and making a grounded shield for the audio chip and caps but i'm not sure if this work will make a difference. i have tried multiple versions of the audio drivers with no change also. i have also tried unplugging all USB connections keyboard, mouse, vibrators, phones, ect. from the computer and problem still occurs. so what do you think guys? Should i just bring out the old trusty 10 lb fix it sledge hammer, run the ground and shielding other suggestions? thank you for your time, Nikandros my junk list I5-7600k stock Asus z270G mother board EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 stock 8gb khx2400c12d4/4gx 16gb cmu16gx4m2c3000c15 EVGA 750G2 power supply Samsung 850 evo 500gb Samsung 850 evo Tb dragonfly black 1.5 Schiit magni 3 Yamaha HS8 Onkyo 9050a Logitech g710+ Zowi FK1 Asus PG248Q test laptop is Asus K501LX I7+960m variant.
  16. I am having issues with my remote openers and range, and I want to see where the interference is coming from. Is there any kind of radio analyzer tool, USB maybe? Any help is welcome!
  17. I don't know if this is a common issue but I've been noticing that my older speakers/sub have been picking up audio from another source. I live in older apartments with shitty outlets, and every once and a while I hear audio from a show or something playing quietly over my speakers even when the tv they are hooked up to isn't on. I'm not saying it's static interference, I can literally hear and understand the commercials and tv shows, like it's bleeding through the outlets somehow. It's done this on multiple outlets and I want to know if there's anyway to stop it.
  18. I decided to ask for help here because I am sure someone has experienced the same issue. So here is the situation. I bought some active studio monitors for music. I plug them into my PC with a 3.5mm plug and no matter what I do, there is interference noise in the monitors. It is very noticeable with and without music. So, I tried both inputs, front panel and motherboard. I also installed a sound-card and that didn't work. Same issue and noise for all situations. Another scenario that surprised me is when I used my phone. It is perfectly fine when I play music from my phone. But, as soon as I plug the charging cable into the USB of my desktop, the interference continues even though music is played through my phone jack. BTW there are no issues when using headphones. Whats going on?
  19. So ive noticed my GPU is making a static / buzzing while underload. doesn't sound like a 'whine' more like interference
  20. Hello there! I've come here today to ask a really weird thing hadn't happened to me I think in all of the years that I've been using computers (6) (18 now). I've got a Logitech G231 headset, and just like 30 minute ago I started hearing static in my left ear. As I always do, I tried it in other device to discard either the PC or the headset, to know which of them both could be having troubles. And surprisingly, it was the computer, I googled it and found out it could be interference or the case not being grounded properly, so my instantaneous instinct was to put my hand on it to try this, and BOOM it worked. But as soon as I took my hand out, the interference/static noise continues. So, I guess there might be an issue either with the PSU not being grounded properly, or dying altogether) (It's a 6 years old Generic PSU, I have an AIO, no money for a good PC yet) Or a problem with the case. By the way, the PC is on a wood table, look at picture attached. Well, hope you can help me out, if it's time to change PSU/Case or maybe entire PC now.
  21. As the title says, I have a laptop (M6700 docked) and a desktop but when I go from line out on the desktop to line in on the laptop there is loud static/interference. If I go from line out on the laptop to line in on the desktop it is fine. Any Ideas? I tried multiple audio cables and even tried the port on the laptop (not the dock) and it's the same result. Basically: desktop ---> laptop (docked or undocked) ---> headphone = loud static laptop ---> desktop ---> headphones = fine
  22. Hello people, ok so my problem is that initially my headphones and mic (mine is decent HP H120 headset) used to work good and then all of a sudden the headphones started producing buzzing noise/ white noise/ electric interference and ultimately the static was so much that I gave up on the onboard audio and decided to buy a cheapo usb sound card, which was working fine 7-10 days until today when strangely headphones were fine but the mic is problematic (no bars rising on recording device tab or any other software e.g. - Google voice search, discord in any game) and I think the levels are too low for any program to detect and for some reason I think that it's more of a software problem than a hardware problem although I can just buy another sound card, any suggestions to fix this problem would be appreciated. Thank You.
  23. I'm having a strange issue with my Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 on my 4,1 Mac Pro; whenever I attach my iPhone to my mac via USB, I can hear the data transferring through my audio interface and thus speakers. I'm aware that this could be a grounding issue, or shared buss issue. But how can I circumvent this? Will adding a seperate PCI-E USB adapter solve these kinds of issues?
  24. Hey everyone, so I recently went through a move abroad and am now back to setting up my microphone after finding a tiny cable that I thought I'd lost in the move. Everything works, however, I'm getting major interference on the mic signal. Let me introduce you to my setup first. I use an AKG C3000 as the mic, it needs phantom power, so the XLR from the mic goes into a DEVINE MPS 1000. From there, I have an XLR cabel running to a Behringer DJX750, of course going into the MIC XLR input. I output the main signal from the Behringer via red and white tulips, converted into a basic audio jack, that goes into the pink rear jack on my pc. It's not very prestigious or recent, but it worked like a charm before. So, everything I've done so far to check where it originates from; Checked the XLR cables Swapped the tulip converter to 3.5 audio jack Swapped the AUX cable connected to the tulip converter to 3.5 audio jack Swapped the powercable to the Behringer Isolated the Behringer powercable to a seperate wall socket Grounded the Behringer and my PC Plugged the AUX into the front pink instead of the back one Unfortunately I can't isolate all the cables (both XLRs, the powercable for the Behringer and the aux cable) away from the other cables. They're bunched up quite a bit and there is only one cable hole in the desk, supplied in the dorms. Would lvoe to drill a couple of extra holes as cablemanagement is just not possible, but that's not an option. I have a feeling my soundcard might be acting up, but reinstalling the drivers did nothing either. Any suggestion on how to proceed are appreciated. It straight up sucks to not have it working and as I'm due to host a dungeons and dragons campaign online soon, I want to be able to hear myself and not annoy myself and others with the static. Thanks in advance! EDIT: I posted a similar problem some time back pretty much the same setup and I can't remember how I fixed it back then, but the huge difference is that now, my friends can hear the interference while on Discord, back then it was only on my side.
  25. I just moved into a new townhouse in a newly (still) developing housing community in a rural area and I'm experiencing some really strange Wifi issues. Basically my Wifi throughput is all over the place, I've seen anywhere from 1mb/s to 500 mb/s (download & upload on 5ghz) while being very close to the access point with direct line of sight on both Speedtest.net (as well as others) and locally using iperf3. I've narrowed it down to a wireless issue as I see my full ISP (500/500 fiber) delivered speeds as well as full ~950mb/s on iperf via ethernet. I've tested on different iphones, PCs, and Macs; all with the same issue. I have tried 4 different routers (my Ubiquiti setup from my previous living situation which was delivering 400-500mb/s consistently, 2 brand new $400 routers, and a Plume configuration from my ISP). I've tried all sort of setting changes with no success. They all have the same issue of inconsistent throughput with a lot of jitter (ping delays). Scanning nearby signals (using Netspot and Wifi Scanner) shows a cluttered 2.4ghz spectrum and several 5ghz networks; nothing crazy though . In fact, my Ubiquiti setup was working flawlessly in a more urban (San Francisco) environment with a gazillion Wifi signals around. There is a DirectTV signal on one of the 5ghz DFS channels (I don't know enough about satellite dishes to know if this is causing interference or not). I was able to get a technician out here from my ISP and he told me that he has only seen this problem twice before in the entire service area and those two locations are in the same building section (2 townhomes away & 4 townhomes away). Another section of townhomes (across the street) has not seen this problem nor has the ISP seen this issue anywhere else. Does anyone have any ideas on what could be causing this? Could Point-To-Point / Point-to-multipoint satellites cause this? There are several satellite dishes on each building section throughout the housing community, but only my section/row of houses (5 units) experiences . (There is a small section of homes detached but right next to me and I need to see if they are experiencing anything similar to rule them out.). Is there anything that might be in the building itself? Any suggestions on how to even investigate this further? Is there someone I can call to help me out with this? I'm really stuck on this one so any help would be much appreciated.
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