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  1. Build Goals: Highly efficient airflow design. Clean & unique aesthetics. Use of natural materials. No compromises in cooling & aesthetics. Specifications: CPU - AMD Ryzen 7 2700X - purchased CPU Cooler - Deepcool Neptwin V2 (fanless) - purchased RAM - G.Skill 16GB DDR4 3600MHz - purchased Storage - Crucial P1 1TB NVMe SSD - purchased Motherboard - Asus Prime X570-P ATX - purchased GPU - MSI Air Boost RX Vega 56 8GB - purchased PSU - Deepcool DQ-M 650w - purchased OS - Windows 10 + Manjaro Linux dual-boot - for now Case/Chassis - Heavily modified Silverstone Raven RV05B-W - in progress The focus of this project is of course, the chassis modifications. Perhaps transformation is a better word for it. The RV05 case is the perfect foundation for this project, the design of which has been in my head for years. Time to bring this thing to reality! The bottom-up airflow design with rotated motherboard orientation is the best chassis interior design for air cooling, IMO. This case came with two of arguably the best case fans for directed airflow efficiency; the Silverstone 180mm air penetrators. They kick off a hefty column of air straight behind them with out needing to run loud and fast. I'm planning to run a large CPU air cooler and those 180mm "jets" should be able to provide plenty of airflow that I won't need to run a fan on the cooler at all. That, and there will be a single 120mm exhaust fan just above it to keep the flow moving. As for the exterior, well, that's where this project is going to take things a whole different direction... To start, I'm not going to need any of the existing side panels, front panel, nor the handles in the top or any of the plastic bits. That's all getting tossed. I kept the front I/O module to be re-mounted in a different position. I'll also be using a custom power button that will be hidden from plain sight. The completed design will keep all the ports and connections hidden. To start off, here's the chassis after I picked it up for just $40 (needs to be cleaned but otherwise in great shape). A closer look at those awesome 180mm air penetrators. You can see the stater veins on the backside that work to redirect the airflow straight back in a more energized column, instead of spraying out to the sides as with most typical case fans. A 120mm is hilariously dwarfed by these beasts. And here's the RV05 chassis, stripped-down to it's bare frame: More updates to follow soon. Just as a side note to keep in mind; this will not be a fast-paced project. Funds are tight and much of this will be done by hand, slowly over the next few months. That being said, the case will be done probably long before I have the new system components to go into it (need to save up). But again, the case is the main focus of this project anyways. Cheers.
  2. I have a phanteks eclipse p400s and was thinking of putting a screen inside the case (in the location outlined in red in the picture attached) there's a decent amount of space for a lcd or similar display. This would be my first time working with displays like this, I was wondering what would i need to do to get the display to go to my motherboard/graphics card would i need something like this? or this? and where would be the best place to start looking for a display for this application?
  3. Good Day, I'm trying to do a two-rad setup in my machine, but things are a bit fuckey. The case is an older Enermax Ostrog GT, and doesn't have room up top for fans AND a radiator. So the Top fans are getting mounted inside, and the rad on the outside of the case up top. Did a test-fit with the Radiator, and it actually looks rather nice with the beveled corners of the single Alphacool Rad I have already purchased. I want to try my best to balance the flow through both radiators so that I keep a neutral or slightly positive case pressure. This is where it turns a little pear shaped. I have a pair of ML140 PRO RGBs and a pair of HD140 RGBs. I do NOT want the HDs visible from the outside of the case, they are simply too damn distracting with all the exposed LEDs (and make it sound like the Air Force is doing Low-Interval Takeoff Drills in my living room when they're going full-tilt). For this reason, I intend on putting them up under the top rad where they can't be seen directly, and all those LEDs will help light up the interior of the case nicely. But, they have very different performance specs between the two of them, so balancing airflow through the radiators to get neutral or positive is going to be a colossal pain in the ass. - ML140 PRO RGB:1.27 mm-H2O & 55 CFM - HD140 RGB: 1.85 mm-H2O & 74 CFM Off the hop, I'm damn sure I'm going to have to push-pull the front rad to keep up with the HDs on the top rad. Assuming both radiators are the same 45mm thickness, would the ML fans in push-pull move about the same amount of air as the push-only HD fans; or, would they end up moving too much and result in the HDs being unable to keep up? Thank you for your time. Kind regards, Matthew PS. Obligatory photos of case-modding. Pardon the dust bunnies:
  4. Jump to the newest post here ↓↓↓↓ Hi I'm NotSoEpicMods you can also call me Josh. Long time ago back in 2008 I made one of my largest(literally) most expensive PC purchases and that was the $300 Cooler Master Cosmos S case. To this day I still see it as one of the most beautiful off the shelf cases out there hence the build/project. While I still see it as an amazing case it does lack in a lot of areas that modern cases strive in and almost make it easy to build a nice looking average pc in(no offence but it's true with all the cable management stuff built into higher end cases). Where this case really falls short in is: Low amount of cable management, restrictive meshes, unpainted interior, no side window, I'm sure there's more. So here I am today 6 years later trying to make the Cosmos S relevant again, or at least make my system look better, hoping that CM will come out with a Cosmos S v2 or a Cosmos T or something. This build is not sponsored by anyone so I have no due dates for anything however I have set personal goals but some upgrades may be a long way off due to budgeting. Here's some of the earliest pictures I could find of what the system used to look like in chronological order.(warning some of these may make you cringe) Full res: http://i.imgur.com/T5oEhJZ.jpg Full res: http://i.imgur.com/0waV9Tu.jpg Full res: http://i.imgur.com/6WTTBAX.jpg Full res: http://i.imgur.com/FspenLT.jpg Full res: http://i.imgur.com/UddzDzp.jpg Full res: http://i.imgur.com/7WTL6wZ The Current Setup: Currently this is my main rig and what it houses isn't amazing and only contains these parts: -CM Cosmos S -Phenom II x6 1090T @ 4Ghz -Corsair H100 push pull -Asus Sabertooth 990FX -16GB Patriot Memory -XFX R7950 DD @ 1Ghz core, 1.35Ghz memory -D-Link Wireless pci-e card -AVerMedia TV pci card -TP-Link Gigabit LAN pci-e card -1x DVD RW, 1x Blu-Ray reader/DVD RW -1x 300GB WD Caviar Black (main OS drive), 1x 1.5TB WD Caviar Green(game capture storage/scratch disk), 2x 2TB WD Red drives(main storage in raid 1 for redundancy) -Corsair HX850 -Various fans http://valid.x86.fr/hvspzq Full res: http://i.imgur.com/MMMuHTI.jpg Full res: http://i.imgur.com/geEWWL1.jpg Full res: http://i.imgur.com/fGBBx8n.jpg What has been done before the log: -cut out the restrictive plastic supports from the top cover(can be seen in above pictures) -removed internal optical drives and changed to external usb drive -had plexiglass side panel insert made(story on this below) - replaced some of the fans with cougar fans So like I said I am terrible at doing in progress shots of doing stuff because I get so deeply focused on doing the build itself. So I am trying to catch this bad habit early and start doing it now rather than when it's all done(which isn't really a build log and would be more of a showcase). It wasn't much I did to it but unfortunately I don't have before, during and after pics. So the top cover plastic supports I was talking about are the ones that can be seen in this link below from overclock3d. It's hard to make out but you can see the light gray lines running underneath the modders mesh and in my picture above of the top cover you can see that those gray lines are missing. Source: http://www.overclock3d.net/gfx/articles/2008/02/23144541647l.jpg Here's mine: Full res: http://i.imgur.com/MDrzyXI.jpg Those cougar fans: Full res: http://i.imgur.com/ny69O5s.jpg My most recent endeavor has been to replace the mesh of my side panel with a glass insert. Well not being able to find a place that does custom flat sheet glass that was in my area I decided to settle with plexiglass (eww I know). So I took my side panel and headed down to my hardware store and bought a piece of plexi. Since I just needed a simple square piece cut I asked them if they would cut it and they said sure but the guy who knows how to operate their fancy saw wasn't in yet. So they said if you leave the side panel and your number with us we can cut a piece of plexi to fit and call me when it's done so I said sure since the cuts were free. As some of you who may have owned a Cosmos S in the past there are stand offs on the inside of the side panel to screw a plastic insert that held a 200mm fan and the modders mesh. Well when they put the plexi panel in(which wasn't even cut square) they decided to use the screws also even though there are clips that hold the plexi. So what happened is that the screws pushed against the aluminum of the side panel and caused a raised bump to show on the exterior of the side panel *facepalm*. I talked with the manager to replace my side panel since they damaged it and they refused to since they can't order via their in store system or something. So I asked to at least get a full sheet of plexi for free so I can do it properly myself, which I got. It's been about a week and I still haven't replaced that badly cut piece of plexi since it is serving its purpose and won't be seen once the case is closed. I added extra washers onto the screws so they no longer press against the aluminum. The problem is that I still had those horrid bumps visible on the beautiful brushed aluminum. I found some matt black screws and cut the heads off with a hacksaw and contoured them with a dremel. It turned out not too bad. Full res: http://i.imgur.com/wDwXidh.jpg The screw heads are just held on with some very very thin "permanent" scotch double sided tape. Also the Cosmos S logo that was on the mesh was just too nice to not have on the side panel. Getting the logo off was a breeze since you can soak it in alcohol and just push on it through the mesh. For the logo I used some reusable scotch double sided strips so that I could more easily relocate the badge somewhere if I needed. All in all it turned out alright considering the mess ups. The screw heads match the raised badge and don't look as out of place. Full res: http://i.imgur.com/qfi4ila.jpg Well that's all I got done for now I get off work early Wednesday so we'll see what I can do then. Edit fo my bad spelling.
  5. Symmetry, Cleanliness, Color, lots of color, Aztec will be its name. The first Desk case signed Themitichris is the next mod I'll create and share with you. Yellow, Orange, Green, Blue, all the colors present in the characteristic Aztec helmet. 1.50m of tank will host a double loop to optimally cool the CPU, GPU and RAM. The rest I let you explain from the renderings Sponsors: Thermaltake Transcend Enjoy! Follow me on Instagram to fastest updates @themitichris_modding
  6. After watching the LTT video on the X Box sleeper build, I wanted to do my own. I went with the: i5 8400 (looking back, I probably should have got the 9400f) - for power efficiency and cost Gigabyte RTX 2060 mini itx - small size, fit budget and performance needs Asus ROG Strix b360-i gaming - did not need overclocking support, was the cheapest intel MOBO with a built in IO shield For the power supply, I had to get creative. I ended up going with an HD plex 400 watt solution, which allows me to plug in a gaming laptop power adapter to power full size dsktop parts. I paired it with a 330 watt dell charger that I got on amazon for about 100 CAD. The HD Plex power adapter cost around 130. The unit is about the size of an ice cream sandwich, which is ideal for the small area Inside the Xbox. As for the mounting points, I 3D printed some basic shells to replace the metallic lining of the X Box and allow for mounting of hardware. I also cut a hole in the bottom of the X Box using a drill press in order to insert a 120 mm intake fan. Next I Crammed in all of my hardware, and had the problem of wiring up the power, reset, and LEDs on the front panel. I found this diagram online and used cable extensions. The male ends fit perfectly with the X Box connectors. I also 3D printed a stand to raise the X Box above the ground and allow the intake fan to pull in enough air. I also added three 60 mm fans outside the perforated edges to the stand to pull excess hot air out of the case. If any of you have suggestions for how to improve this, let me know :)
  7. So someone gave me this old g5 Mac Power PC (No I ain't an Apple fanboy) and I found out that it was super scuffed up. So, since I can't stand the look of it ight now I took a picture of a different one of the web and did a bit of PS on it to get a Portal kinda theme going on. I do know that I can go a bit over board with PS and I regret some of my decisions in the past when doing so. Anyway let's cut to the chase. Does it look decent at all? What I'm trying to do is make it look like a system that may be used for file recovery for Glados (And before you say that it wouldn't make sense, remember that Cave Johnson literally drank jillyjuice that came from the moon! So yeah that happened.) or whatever. mac-prototype.psd
  8. Hello, I dont have project log for this build so i post my final pics and final assembly video. This is based on Silverstone RVZ03 Case with lots of 3D printed parts. Here is specs: Cpu: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 MB: Asus ROG Strix X470-I Gaming Memory: G.Skill 32GB Ripjaws V 3200MHz GPU: Asus RTX 2060 ROG Strix PSU: Silverstone SX650-G Case: Silverstone RVZ03 Cooling: 2 x 120mm FW124-ARGB and 3 x 80mm FW81 From Silverstone 240mm Barrow rad ja 3x80mm Alphacool rad Cpu Block: Alphacool XPX Gpu Block: Alphacool Eisblock GPX-N Res: Alphacool Cape Corp HF 10 Pump: Alphacool DC-LT 2600 Alphacool fittings
  9. Hi all, long time LTT viewer but first time posting in the forums I've been messing with some old hardware for an eGPU setup, which works perfectly, so now I'm planning a custom case for it made from steel and perspex. I could wax lyrical about the build, but the real question is simply regarding the mounting of the board. The intention is to make the floor and back wall from an L-shaped metal piece for strength(the power brick is hefty!), and the other panels from perspex. I didn't choose steel over ally, I just happen to already have it from a previous project. I was going to remove the casing from the EXP GDC board, and mount it directly to the base using motherboard standoffs; This gives me more clearance above, it so everything is more comfortable in what is quite a tight space... But as the power brick is fully encased in plastic and not grounded to the chassis like a desktop PSU, do I need to worry about damaging the board or even the chassis? I don't know much about the DIY side of electronics, so advice would be appreciated. I've attached pictures of components and a sketch of the layout
  10. Hello guys I always wanted to do case modding, so finally I started it, also I am new to this forum so if you have any suggestions please feel free to share So basicly I wanted different mounting position for my AIO from Fractal Design, so I made custom brackets to mount it like I wanted.This is all for now, but I will do more very soon, stay tuned and also you can follow me on Instagram (@gg.design_) P.S. I will paint the brackets and post the pictures probably tommorow.
  11. Hello, and thanks for reading this already! So I was derping around the internet to find some simple case modding (for example led strips, but already have those). Suddenly, I found this badge from Bitfenix, and I fell in love with it because it looked so nice . Do you know something like the Bitfenix badge (but without Bitfenix, my PC doesn't have anything from it), or do you have any other simple case modding ideas? Thanks in advance!
  12. Hello, and thanks for reading this already! I'm planning to get the NZXT Sleeved Led Kit, but I've got some questions: You put the molex into the Motherboard, right? Can i control it from my PC by plugging it into the Motherboard or control it using my fan controller? Opening up the case every time seems inconvenient. The space I need to cover with it is 1,7 meters. So I'm going to take the 2 meter edition of the Led Kit, but is the remaining 0.3 meters going to get in the way or can i hide it? Thanks in advance!
  13. Hey guys, I had a question: I have this old Coolermaster HAF 932 just sitting around and to kill some time, I though it'd be a great idea to mod that thing up and move my current rgb yada yada config into that beast-case. The idea is to replace all the panels with custom/other ones except the back panel. Top, bottom and front are nothing a bit of acrylic and/or aluminum can't fix, but for the side panels I have a problem: I don't want to cut out all the protrusions out of them and replace them with glass or plastic, as that would pretty much destroy the structural integrity of these panels; they'd get all wobbly and unstable. My question: which modern case has (windowed- or tempered glass-) side panels matching the exact size of the HAF 932? Off the top of my head it's 56x52 cm per panel. I'd be much obliged if you guys would be so kind to let me know whether there are such panels available out there. Thanks a million! Gr, J.
  14. Hello fellow casemodders . I thought it would be cool to show you pictures of my personal rig, showing you some of the proces too. ️Case: NZXT S340 Elite ️Mobo: Asus Z270-A Prime ️CPU: Intel i7 6700K ️RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB DDR4 @3200mhz ️GPU: Asus ROG Strix GTX 1080ti ️Cooling: Corsair H115i ️Storage: Samsung 850 Evo 500gb ️PSU: Corsair HX850i ️Coolermaster Vertical GPU Bracket ️Cablemod Extensions ️Cablemod RGB/W Hybrid ledstrip 60CM ️Cablemod Modwrap As you've probably noticed already I'm quite a big fan of Asus .This was practically my first true casemod. I'm a big fan of clean looking systems, so I did my best to make my build as clean as possible. The colored parts on the front of the case were handcut with the Dremel Moto-saw. The Corsair logo and the ''Rebublic of gamers'' on the PSU shroud were cut by hand with an exactoknife. The fans are custom painted Corsair SP120 Quiet Editions.I'll start with the final result pictures:The Custom Cablemod (Modmesh) cables and the AIO Modwrap truly made the build shine . Now it's time to tell something about the proces! It all started with the design, which was drawn in Sketchup. This was the first time using my Dremel Moto-saw, I enjoyed working with it very much. The cuts were very accurate and the machine was easy to work with. These were the first cuts I made. Not bad for a first try I guess. After all of the cuts were done the black parts got a paintjob. And so did the red parts The whole picture looked like this, and I coudln't be happier After the frontplate was finished I started on the fan paintjobs. I made a little tutorial on that can be seen under here. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------The Tutorial can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPzaLbuDOuQ&t=25s <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Then the time came to make the PSU shroud cover. The first try wasn't good enough IMO, so I made a new one later on. First-Second down below. Both tries were handcut. At last I modded the Strix 1080ti to fit the theme better.On the back of the fanshroud you can see the molten attachment points which keep the 6 smaller pieces in place. I found that the molten pieces whould be drilled in with a 4mm drill, 3ish mm deep. Then you should be able to whip the parts off with a flathad screwdriver. After getting all the pieces off it's a matter of spraying the parts with the color you'd want them to be.A bit of rain won't stop me from modding! It turned out pretty well . Well applied hotglue will hold it in place well enough. The new Cablemod cables deserved some serious attention on the cablemanagement. I cut a part off the S340 Elite's Cablemanagement bar's bottom part. Using the Dremel 4000, 175 Watts that get through the steel with ease. I used Nanoxia's cablecombs to rout them perfectly down the line. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------I've had a wonderful time working on this project. I hope you enjoyed reading through this buildlog .If you have any other questions regarding this mod, don't hesitate to ask!Kind regards, Ruben - TheDutchmanModifies
  15. Note: This Build log is just a repost from another Overclocking forum. The mods said I couldn't link to it in my signature so I'm reposting it with some of the response remarks in the single firstpost. This isn't like some epic awesome cool desktop build log, its just to show case what you can do with customizing and creating a gaming rig out of a high end gaming notebook. Its not something really special but it is a fairly unique build and I did much of it by myself, with some stuff purchased at XoticPC. This log is pretty much on hold until I get all 3 of my monitors so I can start it up again and do debezeling and building an eyefinity array for the system to use. I'll update it when I can get my new monitors and parts. Feel free to ask questions or leave comments, thanks for taking interest. Audios, ~Franbunny Alice Viera Stats and Specs Super M17X R4 CPU: Intel Core i7 3740QM IvyBridge Overclocked @3.77GHz all cores, turbing up to 4.06ghz 2 Cores, according to CPUZ GPU: Dell/Alienware AMD Radeon HD7970M 2GB GDDR5(Thames/Wimbledon XT)[MXM Slot] Motherboard: Alienware M17xR4 HM77 Socket fcPGA988(Sandybridge/Ivybridge) Memory: Kingston HyperX 12GB 1866mhz DDR3 Dual channel, 4 SODIMM units: 2 x 4GB+2x 2GB Storage Solution: 64GB Crucial M4 mSATA SSD[boot drive] 750GB Western Digital Scorpio Black[storage] 60GB Kingston SSDnow! V+ SSD(Caching) Case/Chassis: Alienware M17X R3/R4 with XoticPC service applied custom artwork created by Me(Franbunny Alice Viera) Display: 1920x 1080 60HZ Super Clear Super Bright Alienware 17.3inch FHD WLED screen @ 72%NTSC Gamut. External ASUS VS207-T 2160x1215 Downsampling(1600x900)monitor. Optical Drive: 8x DVD Buner RW drive slim slot load Audio: Creative Sound Blaster Recon3Di High-Definition 5.1 Audio with THX TruStudio Pro Software, Audio Powered by Klipsch 2.0 4speaker array. Overall Cost: $2300 even. Base system: 1909$ XoticPC upgrades: 198$ Aftermarket upgrades: 193$ Includes all taxes shipping cost Doesn't include the 30$ extra charge for the artwork update I got, but a friend paid for that for me. Original (Modified) thread post below! Lots of cool stuff, check it out :thumb: Alright so I got my M17X R4 today and I'll be starting my build here soon. I dubbed it a "Super M17X R4" because it has advanced upgrades that you can't get stock from Alienware.com Its basically a stock HD7970M 1080P M17X R4 Nebula Red with an SSD from XoticPC installed, and my personal graphics artwork applied to the lid(Art by me, Vinyl application done by XoticPC) Nothing super fancy like some of the guys's nice rigs around here hey its a stretch for a laptop. Heres my concept art to real world imgur thread with photos from XoticPC: http://imgur.com/a/VcQiR The "super" upgrade that I'm doing Base build i7 3630QM HD7970M 750GB HDD 1080P 60HZ Screen XoticPC upgrade 64GB Crucial M4 mSATA SSD for OS Custom artwork Vinyl(120$ had to do a 2nd print) Total machine price from at unboxing: $2103 My Parts list 12 GB DDR3 Dual Channel Kingston HyperX RAM (Kingston HyperX 2x4gb 1866mhz Memory Modules Kingston HyperX 2x2gb 1866mhz Memory Modules, 6GB per channel.) Kingston SSDnow! V+200 60GB SSD Intel Centrino 6250 Multiband WifiCard+WiDi compatable+WiMAX technology Artic MX-2 Thermal Compound Update: Got a i7 3740QM from Alienware free of charge as an error with XoticPC's problematic customer service, ty Alienware! Got my first of 3 1600x900 monitors and Soft modded the driver for 2160x1215 downsampling resolution. "Soft Mods" Xotic PC did a clean install of Windows 7 HP for me but They were missing some drivers so I'm catching theme as I go along. Debating whether I should just drop in a clean install myself before doing all the software level mods. (^Lol did this last night, done) Login Tweaks wallpaper Windows Manabí OS-Tan Windows 7 theme modified with my own changes(Done) Intel SRT Technology(to be used with the 60GB SSD)(Done) Windows OS Symbolic Links creation for SSD theory operation(see below)(done) Downsampling custom monitor resolution: 2160 x 1215(+15)(2.62 megapixels)to emulate future eyefinity workload. Hardware Mods Chassis and Crucial M4 SSD Install(XoticPC did this) ArticMX-2 applied.(done) Full CPU overclock: 4ghz OC 2cores, 3.77ghz OC 4 Cores HD 7970M Super Clock: Gaming stable clock: 972mhz Core/1225 Memory Here's what went into the system. Storage System schematic, part of the "Super" build title meaning So before anyone asks about my storage solution set up here "Why 2 SSDs?" One is for OS, the mSATA, its specifically for OS, Drivers, Communicators, and browsers. If something of that sort doesn't fall under that category I simply do not want it to be on that mSATA SSD, I want to keep it clean and as quick booting as possible This SSD will be separate to operation of user applications and games. However the 750GB HDD will be paired in raid operation with the 60GB SSD which will cash and pin programs from the 750GB HDD to give me maximum storage and performance ratio. It's going to be a pain to set up all the symbolic links and moving around system files to keep files off the SSD but keeping everything operating to perfection is an absolute must for me. I'm stoked to see this M17X R4 finally arrive, because It will handle every game I play without issues and will later on be able to support a 720P eyefinity set up which I plan on saving up money for. I'll be doing an unboxing and overview video, along with an upgrading video as well. EDIT, got a semi unlocked CPU for this part, OC'd it to 4Ghz with Bios and Intel XTU settings. I've never used AMD graphics before, but since GCN Radeon HD 7000 series is better for high resolutions and multi screen performance, as well as my workstation projects and programs I desided to hang up my green and black for a red and black tshirt and wanted to get something that would fit my value and resources.. I'm curious on the difficulty of overclocking and tweaking the mobile GPU to achieve a worth while and stable overclock to support the higher resolutions for downsampling, eyefinity and games in general. I don't want to push it hard, I just want to see a good 3dMark11 score pop up, and have acceptable frame rates at high to max@720P to 900P eyefinity. Here's my 3dMark stock with the 13.6beta drivers After all the hardware is installed and running, and full windows updates. http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/6688658 This will be my 4th Alienware, and my 3rd Alienware laptop, and I'm stoked to see it come to life. I hope you guys enjoy my presentation, because I'm absolutely stoked. :thumb: Hardware upgrades: Done! File system managed: complete! Overclocking: Done and Stable 4ghz OC 2cores, 3.77ghz OC 4 Cores Downsample Resolutions: 2160x1215 External monitor softmod Downsampling Build progression Concept First Mock up Final mock up Artwork completed Final Print Fun Fact. This is the 27megapixel image that I created for the Vinyl artwork. http://franbunnyffxii.deviantart.com/art/m17X-skin-R3-364624834 This took me a little over 41hours to do(not including mock ups or stuff like that), because it was done pixel by pixel... In MSPaint and then the image was drafted and finalized and rendered in MS Powerpoint2007. The original image of fran that is in the middle of the artwork is a 45megapixel digital graphic. It wasn't cleaned or optimized for usage http://franbunnyffxii.deviantart.com/art/Fran-Final-Fantasy-XII-352296560 I cut and cleaned this image out pixel by pixel, by hand in MS paint, for the most humanly accurate possible raw image. It took me 36hours to do that. Build photos from XoticPC Crucial M4 mSATA SSD installed Unboxed and to the next stage Teardown and rebuild video http://www.youtu.be/zvxtMZ3QGQE Now I can go on to overclocking and stuff. http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/6693475 http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/6693520 Highest I can take it without overvolting WOOT http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/6694445 this is where my laptop was failing before, because it was so heavily undervolted. apparently it was a full 0.25 under standard voltage. Its pretty epic to see this score pop up being on such a low voltage. I think I got a good card. :thumb: Anyone think I can break 1ghz? 20minute stress test a 99% gpu load. didn't even break 67C Wow... 1ghz HD7970M http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/6695051 Highest OC before I went up to and got the i7 3740QM Blows me away to see this thing is benching a little more than half the power of a GTX 780/titan... just amazing for me going from a GTX 570 1280MB-->GT 335M-->GT650M-->HD 7970M Nope. Its all native, which is one of the reasons I got the M17X to begin with. If you look deep down at the M17X R4's specs you see crap that alienware put in it that other companies didn't like the native support for up to 2133mhz ram, along with HDMI In, and Sound recon3Di, and klispch audio, ect. The MSI laptops couldn't support my SSD system, the asus couldn't either, and both MSI and asus will void your warranty if you pull off the heatsinks and repaste if you're not a qualified specialist at a retail vendor. blahlblah. alienware doesn't care. "mod away! we love to see that stuff" they just don't support whatever 3rd party stuff under their warranty. But yeah everything you're seeing here is native, nothing tweaked beyond software. Current Set up.
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