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Hey, I'm experiencing some issues setting up a magsafe charger for my phone in my Vw up. Due to the cars original mount being limited to landscape mode I have 3D printed an adapter to fit a magsafe charger into. The printed part fits right in and the magsafe charger is safely secured to the mount. However, the magsafe charger does not seem to be communicating with USB port in the car correctly and the phone is not charging at all. I have tested the charger with a oneplus power adapter plugged into a wall outlet and it works fine. I have also tested with my laptop and it works fine while connected using the integrated usb-C cable that is attached to the magsafe charger. To use it in my car I connect it with a usb-A -> usb-C adapter that came with the magsafe charger. My first find was that the magsafe charger did not work with the usb-A adapter at all so I bought a 10GB/s adapter after I read on some forum that the type of adapter can be sensitive. However, that did not change anything. I looked up the technical spec for the USB connection in my car which classifies it as a "data" USB port. However, charging my phone with a USB-A -> USB-C cable works just fine. TLDR; 1. Magsafe Charger does work in my car (VW Up! 2018) 2. The Magsafe charger works fine everywhere else but the car 3. The USB-A port can charge my phone just fine using a regular USB-A -> USB-C cable 4. The Magsafe Charger has an integrated USB-C cable and is connected to the car with a tiny USB-C -> USB-A adapter 5. Replacing the "simple" adapter that came with the Magsafe charger to a 10GBps USB-C -> USB-A adapter does not work Any tip on how I could solve this? Anyone with similar experiences? My best guess is that it's just the magsafe charger that needs to be replaced for another variant although I have no idea what to look for since I can't find the root of the issue. USB-C -> USB-A adapter: https://www.amazon.se/-/en/dp/B085ZYJWDW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Magsafe Charger: https://www.amazon.se/-/en/dp/B0CKXKYSMY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Magsafe Magnetic Ring (I have a Nothing Phone (1)): https://www.amazon.se/-/en/dp/B09BZ17JM7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (No the magnetic ring does not interfere with charging, it works fine anywhere but my car)

In WAN show on 12th April at around 3rd hour, Linus and Luke talk about light acceleration being more efficient than stronger acceleration. This is a very common misconception, that I've encountered way to often, when working in this field. Engines work optimally at optimal load, which, for ICE engines, is close to full load. For electric motors, it varies greatly based on design. For optimal efficiency and best fuel mileage, you'd want to accelerate at near full load in highest gear, until reaching the revs where the friction of the piston against the the cylinder causes too much drag and a speed where the wind resistance causes too much drag. In fuel mileage competitions, when a driver reaches this speed, they shut off the gas and let the kinetic energy turn the engine, or they just switch the engine off and shift into neutral, if they can save more fuel than what it takes to start the engine. I'm not saying anybody outside a competition should drive like this, that would be horrible, but don't feather that gas pedal either. Keeping the engine at minimal load all the time won't help it and you are not winning on efficiency either.

Hi, I am running wireless android auto from my oneplus 7T running android 10 on my car infotainment system which is autocrank at8822. Wireless android auto connects from my phone and map loads on my car. however, internet is not working once wireless android auto connects. I believe this is because wireless android auto connection creates a wifi hotspot from my car's infotainment system and connects with my phone. now, the phone realizes it has to take internet from this wifi connection which it does not get and thus never takes internet from the phone's mobile data. This issue is not happening with iphones and wireless carplay is working as expected. Can anyone please help me get it working for my oneplus 7T? i do not want to update this to anrdoid 11 since the phone's software sucks in the latest update.

Not sure if this is the right subforum, but its still tech related and that's partially what i need help with. I have a 2022 Impreza Sport hatchback, and I was looking for something that would improve the audio setup. It has a good sound to start, but when listening to things like heavy metal, the heavy and constant bass/low notes tend to mush together with everything else, and I was wondering if there was a small subwoofer or something that I could redirect the lower notes to. I don't know much about audio at all, so if there's a better solution than that, let me know. IDK if this is important or not, but I bought the car new with all the warranties, so something that would potentially void that would probably be off the table. I also don't want to spend a crazy amount of money. Any help/recommendations are appreciated, thanks!

Hello! First forum post here! I have been watching LTT since the Langly House days and love the content. Have you all considered creating a car channel, I have loved seeing the car reviews on Short Circut and think a channel, similar to Auto Focus, would be really cool to see from the LMG team. Something with a weekly or biweekly schedule would be fun. I don't know, I have had this on my mind for a few months and never really knew where to share it. Then I remembered the forum existed lol.

I know I'm definitely not the first person to run a setup like this, but I figured I'd share anyways, since most of the threads I found on this kinda thing from other forums were a little lacking in detail, and I had to go through a bit of trial and error with the adapters. Since I got into watercooling about 5 years ago, I'd always wanted to try hooking up a car rad to a loop, since working on cars is my biggest hobby apart from PC stuff. After watching the disaster that was LTT's car rad video a few times, I figured I'd finally give it a shot, since my parents aren't here in my dorm to stop me from bringing car parts inside Ended up with an original 1970 Camaro 3 core radiator, which uses a full copper core with brass end tanks; $50 from Facebook marketplace! Some new tubing, $20 worth of PVC schedule 40 adapters, a $25 Harbor Freight pond pump (264GPH, 5.5ft head pressure; submersible, comes with a 1/2in barb adapter for the outlet, and has a removable/ washable filter for the inlet), and a few gallons of distilled water/ Primochill's included additive later, here it is! Got it propped up next to my window with a box fan blowing cold air from outside through into the room. ADAPTERS For the adapters, on this specific rad, I ended up using a rubber 1-1/4in to 1-1/2in adapter on the inlet and outlet. The outlet measures 1-1/2in, but the adapters turned out to be a bit oversized, so had to try a few before I got ones that fit snugly. From there, used 1-1/2in Schedule 40 PVC to 1/2in NPT threaded adapters, then put 1/2in x 1/2in MNPT barbs into those using T Plus 2 PTFE pipe sealant on the threads. From my research, found that it's best practice to use a non-setting thread sealer for this kind of connection, as opposed to the usual PVC cement. The sealant is rated for potable water systems as well, so I felt alright about having it in the loop, and it doesn't appear to have mixed with the coolant anyways, so I'd say it's working properly. The first time I tried to get this loop done, I used brass barbs in the adapters, but as it turns out, brass won't seal properly in PVC threads, so keep that in mind if you try this. RADIATOR CAP Finally, I ended up getting one of the pressure release style radiator caps, which actually turned out to be a huge help. The spring in the cap seals the neck of the rad, but if you lift the lever, it'll bleed all the air out of the loop through the overflow tank stem; very handy feature, and the cap was only $8 on Amazon. Keeps the system sealed with the lever down as well, so I didn't have to plug the overflow tank stem like I thought I would. A regular style cap would be a PITA to bleed, since it won't open unless your coolant pressure gets above 15psi, which isn't going to happen in a PC loop, so I'd recommend getting this kind of cap if you wanna build one of these rigs. TUBING/ COOLANT I used 7/16in ID x 5/8in OD Primochill Advanced LRT tubing, which fits snugly over the 1/2in barbs (may have to stretch it and fiddle around to get em started though), and just used standard PC G 1/4 compression fittings for the PC side of the loop. The Primochill tubing also comes with an additive that makes a gallon of coolant with growth and corrosion inhibitors, which I've been running with no issues in my regular loop for 5 years now, so I trust that it'll keep the loop clean (enough). Took somewhere around 4 gallons to fill the loop, including the 2 gallon bucket the pump is sitting in; the other 3 gallons are just plain distilled water, but when I move out of my dorm, I'll probably spend the extra money for more of the Primochill additive just to be safe. It's about $13/ gallon, which is actually cheaper than antifreeze where I am! Speaking of, I do have antifreeze on hand for when the temps start tanking here in Virginia as we get closer to winter, so we'll see if that ends up being necessary. Could always just close the window, but I'm a sucker for low temps on my components, so I'll keep it open unless I start seeing condensation. Oh, and back on the topic of the Primochill tubing, I'd also like to note that they say the tubing IS compatible with antifreeze, so that I shouldn't have to worry about adding it if/ when the time comes. JayzTwoCents did a couple videos a few years back with antifreeze in a loop, and it worked perfectly fine for a few months; only replaced it in his follow up vid because his DDC pump got shorted on the heatsink and he had to drain the loop. Antifreeze (at least the regular green kind, do some research on the different kinds to know the difference; If I recall correctly, the red Toyota coolant is only used in full aluminum systems, and I haven't looked into the orange or yellow types, but they all have different additives for the systems they were designed for; green was made for older cars with iron block engines, copper or rads, aluminum heads, copper heater cores, etc. Lots of different metals, so do your due diligence if you wanna try this to make sure you use a coolant that'll be compatible with your specific rad/ blocks)... er, got a bit rambly there, so I'll digress Anyways, antifreeze is designed to be in systems which use rubber, so you shouldn't have to worry about the seals in your loop degrading. ANYWAYS, that was all a lengthy roundabout way of saying that the Primochill tubing will work with antifreeze, and I'd imagine other soft tubings for PC cooling will as well, but just make sure that your tubing of choice is compatible if you want antifreeze. I believe most hardline tubing won't work, specifically PETG. I also wouldn't recommend doing hardline for this kind of thing unless you're quite certain that you're gonna keep the radiator and PC exactly where they are. Always preferred soft tubing for ease of maintenance personally, since I'm more concerned with performance than looks. Bet you could make a setup like this look pretty slick with copper tubing though; industrial chic! TL;DR: Make sure you do your research on coolant compatibility!! And don't do what Linus did in whole room watercooling, since antifreeze doesn't contain growth inhibitors! (car cooling systems don't need growth inhibitors since the heat from the engine will kill anything in the loop. Your PC will NOT get the coolant into the 220f+ range like an engine will) PERFORMANCE/ RESULTS Only have it hooked up to the GPU block for now, but it's been working for a bit over a week now with no issues. Really wish they'd properly hooked up the rad in the video, because it really does work quite well, and the adapters were only about $20 total. Even better though, if you poke around on secondhand marketplaces, you can find a good amount of full copper rads from older cars for quite cheap, since a lot of people with those cars like to move up to new 4 core aluminum rads and the like. All in, I paid about $135 for the full setup, not counting the GPU block. Hope they revisit this concept on LTT and actually do it right. As for performance, obviously it's quite good. Pump actually has pretty good flow through the whole loop, and the GPU idles at about the temps of the weather, maybe 1c higher. Got down to 12c at idle the other night when it was in the low 50f range, and running Cyberpunk with the 1080ti overclocked to 2075mhz/ 6107mhz mem, it peaked at 23c, and managed to stay at 2075mhz the entire time! When it was hooked into the CPU loop (780mm total rad area, sharing the loop with an i7 6950x @ 4.2GHz/ 1.24v), it would sit closer to 34c in the same conditions with the windows opened, and clocked down closer to 2012mhz. Really no actual impact on performance, but hey, its nice to see the clocks staying up. Got it to keep a stable 2113mhz in Time Spy as well, hoping to see it go higher once winter kicks in. CHANGES I'D LIKE TO MAKE Eventually, I do want to move to a traditional style D5 pump with a reservoir, but I went with the bucket/ Harbor Freight pump for now because budget. At the very least, I'd like to drill some holes in the lid of the bucket so the tubing can pass through and I can keep the bucket sealed. Would also like an actual way to mount the rad in one place as well, since it's just leaning against the window frame, but its been stable on the shelf, so it'll do. One last thing I considered trying, and may end up doing eventually, is to get some brass caps in the size of the inlet/ outlet for the rad, then drill/ tap them for G 1/4 thread, and braze them to the radiator. If that's done properly, it should theoretically hook up to a PC the same as any standard PC radiator, but I'm using the adapters for now since I don't have access to any of the tools for that here in my dorm room. Plus, that adds a bit of cost, and it means you'd be permanently modifying the radiator, so it'd never really work in a car again. Probably not a concern for most people, but I would like to own a 2nd gen f-body one day, so I may end up putting the rad back into the car it was designed for. Probably not, but you never know! Would definitely make the setup a bit more "proper" though, assuming it was done right. I'm also not sure if I'm going to make use of the transmission cooler lines. The lines lead into a cylindrical reservoir inside of the passenger side end tank, and it's designed to actually heat the trans fluid and keep it at operating temp. I'm sure if you wanted to get wacky and wild, you could do some kinda system with a condenser or a chiller through the trans loop, but it'd be pointless to add it into the loop with the main rad, since the coolant would be at the same temps. I'M FINALLY (almost) DONE TALKING! Apologies for the long post, but hopefully I remembered to put in all the little details for how to actually set the loop up, in case anyone was looking into doing something similar. If anyone has any questions or wants some clarification on anything I may have accidentally left out, let me know! Would love to hear back on any advice some of y'all may have on this kinda setup as well, since I'm new to the whole janky watercooling world; this whole project is just me experimenting, and I'm definitely no expert.

I live in the UK if that makes a difference. - I would note that the UK is banning all petrol / diesel cars in 2030 and hybrids in 2035. Can I buy an electric car for this amount of money? If so, any good recommendations for a decent car? Also open to buying pre-owned if worth it.

long story short I use a phone as a dashcam and actually a second phone to control navigation and music in my car (it's a 2000 model year so the phone is the navigation). As it gets too damn hot here I've noticed the G6 I use as a dashcam has the battery starting to expand so I ordered a replacement battery for it. I'm just curious if anyone knows of ways to prolong the life of the batteries in hot environments. Once the battery arrives I plan to set up a charging limit of 50% (both phones power on and off with the car so it only needs to have enough battery to let the phone power up when it starts charging). Ideally I would eliminate batteries but I don't think either phone boots up with no battery connected and they need to run scripts to pause music/kill the app and stop/save recording when the car turns off anyway so they need to survive on battery for at least a few seconds.

Early 200's Taurus, 84K original miles and failed E-test for something that would cost about $400 to fix to be able to pass on retest of E-test. So should I fix it or save that money and shoot for another used car in the $6,000-$7,000 range? Or just buy some really bad old junk car for $3K? Most people know this answer internally intuitively about cars but not me, my Car Iq is around 13. thanks.

I'm about to buy a 2014 Ford Edge, and I was wondering if anyone's ever tried to get Linux or a different version of Windows on one of these Ford systems. I can't find anything online about anyone doing this, but the preliminary research I've done online has revealed that Microsoft used Windows Embedded Automotive for Sync. The system has 2 USB 2.0 ports and an SD reader. I'm pretty sure the SD card reader contains the map data, and updates to the system are issued via flash drive. Seems like there should be a way to highjack the bootloader for the flashdrive and put another OS on there.

setups_hustle_20210629_184442_0.mp4

Why can’t the phone just mirror its screen rather than requiring closed interface like android auto and apple car play? Plus this closed interface will limit the life of the feature (depending on when a update fails on one of the device - car or phone) and its functionality. Wish the implementation was designed like how we control the volume of smartphone with the headphone jack; simple interface with nothing to hack. For example, the phone and car cannot write any data to each other only read what data is presented to them. In the case of external touchscreen just the input from the display is relayed to the phone which is paired/trusted, similar to how usb-OTG and bluetooth is paired. And for audio and mic the phones output is accepted by the car.

I got the elegoo car v4 kit it says to use the app to connect to a wifi network that it creates but i cant find a wifi network

I have divorced parents so I need to be able to transport a PC from house to house if I get one, I was thinking of buying the ASUS TUF Gaming GT501 Mid-Tower Computer Case but I am unsure if something in my PC will break will in the car.

Dutch company has first "Street Ready" Flying Car IT'S NOW A REALITY PAL-V (Personal Air and Land Vehicle) is a Dutch company that is involved in the development of the first commercial flying car, the PAL-V Liberty. It is a compact two-person aircraft that can travel on public roads about $500,000 USD EU street ready delivery requires additional paperwork thus 2022 expected delivery beyond the street tests paperwork: Requires both a Driving & a Flying Licenses Two Seated vehicle described as quieter than a helicopter training for a gyroplane flying license at the PAL-V FlyDrive Academy in case of engine failure the gyroplane can be landed normally in a very small area equivalent to a tennis court The PAL-V LIBERTY is designed within existing certification requirements on the road as well as in the sky. ---For flying, CS-27 (Europe) and FAR-27 (USA) are the standards on which the Type Certificate is based. ---For driving, the road legislation directives of the European Commission and National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHTSA) standards are used. Press Kit available in seven languages (the English Press kit is attached as a PDF) English-Worlds-First-Flying-Car-Hits-The-Road.pdf

So, I just recently got a 2018 Nissan Altima. For navigation and stuff it uses an SD card. 2019 models and up use a different system. Well, Nissan wants you to buy their SD card for $130 plus the small shipping cost. Well, I kinda just want to find the data somewhere and put it on an SD card I already have. Anyone have any ideas on where to find it on the internet? Some tool someone made or to download it from somewhere? There's copying one but I'd need to have a Nissan SD card first do to that. Any ideas or suggestion would be nice. Or if you find it cuz I've been looking.

Hello, I am interested in buying a good cheap (under €120) dash camera for my car. I am not interested in many features and perfect image resolution. The only reason i need it is to record video front or back of the car in case of a crash when it is in the parking lot and the car is turned off. I have my eye on the Garmin Dash Cam Mini 2 but it's a little out of my budget because i have to buy the constant power adapter cable to use the parking mode. What do you recommend ?

Summary Nissan has partnered with the shoe brand New Balance to create a "drivable shoe". While it's debatable if the car's processor will have a sole, you shouldn't stick your tongue out at it. The combination of new balance 327s and the Nissan kicks will be displayed Aeon Mall in Tokyo. Can't paste images on mobile Sources https://hypebeast.com/2023/1/new-balance-nissan-327-edition

Recently picked up a used Tacoma that has an older software version for its radio. There used to be a 5.20 version that was downloadable off of the Toyota website but it seems they have helpfully removed anything that was older than 2016. If anyone has the Gen 2 radio software .iso file and can provide it I would be really grateful.

-Hello internet buddies, i really don't know if this belongs here, 1st post here ever.. But here's my build plan, and any thoughts on it would be awesome. ~i got an ASUS tuf gaming f17 laptop, fx706hcb and mine came with a 180watt wall charger. I wanna play it in my car, so i bought a 500watt modified sine wave inverter from my local Oreilles and was going to install it in the back of my car, use it on road trips to play and charge my laptop, or maybe a light, or my m12 charger so i can use my work lights out camping, or whatever doesn't start peak over 500watt. ~my parts list so far- beefy automotive cables running from the cars battery to the middle. this case a 2019 outback with 130amp factory alternator. an in-line fuse of i dont know what kind of amperage. the inverter. a 40/45 amp? relay, and a light up switch so i know when it has power feeding to it or not. maybe a voltage gauge since the car stock doesnt have one (or i havent found it yet *facepalm*). ~ A story ~ Now ive grazed over the manual for my car and the factory 12v outlets AND usb ports should not exceed 120watt max total output. so i figure OK ill bite and put holes in the car for the inverter. so i ask someone about them doing the install for me and they say, yes but to save some money i could look into some 12v outlet chargers for my laptop since some police cars have that 12v outlet charger for them in it. but im thinking its no gaming laptop so how much power would theirs even need? well i googled it and i didnt like what was found so i call ASUS, got to a person, and asked if they sold a charger of that kind. Well the guy on the phone (i didnt have the laptop on me, i was on break at work when i called) just tells me i can use a regular usb to usb-c cable to connect the laptop usb-c to one of the cars (5v 2.4amp? i really dont know) usb ports and charge it that way. but that sounds kinda sketchy to me so i figure i ask the LTT internet for some thoughts on this plan of mine. maybe im missing somethin or not future acess proofing it or something. ~Anyway, thanks for reading. Have fun out there!

If I buy a rolling complete shell can I tow with AAA? In Socal.

So it's happening! I need some information on what would be a good reliable car. I've checked out cars like the Honda Accord and the Mazda 6, and even took a look at Toyota Tacoma and a Ford Ranger. I know nothing about cars, but I want a pretty reliable one! Any advice?

Should I just save my money for a better shell or just go out there and buy one. I really just want to get out there and start working more on cars. Preferably a 240sx, FC, etc.

Hi Guys, I recently purchased a used car and the speakers in it are the absolute worse. Anyone have a good alternative to replacing actual car speakers (like a beats pill or something).