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So my deal is I do pc repair and building for old tech if people don’t have the money to spare. I just got given this all in 1 carry along word processor from back in the early 90’s. It’s pretty spec’d out 3.5“ floppy, Full working printer, A monochrome screen that’s actually really bright for the time. And it can do everything a Microsoft suit can from back then, though I think it runs it’s own OS. It runs amazingly fast for the time and has a faster boot up time than most windows 10 machines. I have found files Dating from early 1995 on it, but can’t quite work out when it was made. I have tonnes of old old tech like this I’ve been given over the years, and I’d love to see if anyone else here has any cool old tech, or if actually knows if this machine is any good,

We got few of these at work, and they're about to be replaced. I'd hate for these to go to waste, and we have so many of these old square Dell monitors at work. Would it be possible to use these as secondary? I'm currently under the impression that it's not possible as there's only 1 HDMI port and one VGA port. I'd check for them myself, but I don't have a spare one. P.S. not for me, as I currently have a 27" and a 24" 1080p at work with dual laptop/desktop, so it's mainly for my coworkers who still have very old small monitors

Hey Guys, So I'm Pretty Savvy With PCs But Not Really In The TDP Aspect Of Processors. So My Question Is: I Have An All In One With A Desktop Grade i7-6700T. It Is Rated At 35 Watts. That Is There Compatibility With Something Like An i5-10400 Or i5-9400? They Are Supposedly 65 Watts Base TDP. The Power Supply On It Is Only A 180w Max But I'm Unsure Due To Different Websites Saying Different TDP. I Stick With Ark But Just Wanted A Second Opinion.

Hey Guys, Just wanted to get your thoughts on this controller. Saw it on Rereztv Should I buy it? Thanks, Deathndahouse

Hi, Where should I begin...? I downloaded and burned some bootable virus scanners (AVG, Kaspersky...) to run on a laptop and on a pc. The laptop went fine, easy to find a way to execute all bootable virus scanners some wired things found: done. On the pc, a pavilion 23 HP all in one, I just dont get to start any bootable virus scanner. Not even pressing F8 or F10 or F12, which make a message to appear showing system information like ram, windows version... Am I missing something?

i made this out of junk and old stuff. i thinks its pretty cool what yall think

Hey, i wanted to change my air cooling into an all in one water cooling system to better overclock my 6700k. But i can´t find any with a withe socket to fit my white&black pc build on any site that can ship to europe (especially germany). If anyone knows a site that can ship to germany and has that kind of cooler or if someone has a better idea or other suggestion please let me know

I just grabbed a 5 year old prebuilt PC from a friend of mine, which had a GTX 660 Ti (lol), an Intel Core i7 3820, etc etc. What's important is that the CPU came with an all-in-one cooler for the processor, but I kind of assumed that the cooler wasn't doing too well with the temps steadily climbing to 84*C while monitoring things in the BIOS. Umm.. I've never made or tinkered with a PC with a water cooler before, and was wondering if the water needed to be replaced? How do I do that? Is the cooler a lost cause? I'm sorry to say that I'm a n00b when it comes to water cooling but a decently seasoned PC builder in general. Any ideas?

Hi guys, I am currently on the hunt for a new cooling solution for my system. My system has a Intel Core(TM) i5 6600k with a GeForce 1060 from Palit. I currently have a 240mm Antec all-in one liquid cooler in my system which performs very well even under load. I am not a major overclock and don't often clock my CPU very high. I will occasionally do som light overclocking to get some extra oomph out of my CPU but this is not something that is common for me. What I am looking for is a cooling solution that will perform well but be quiet. I don't need complete silence but I do want my system to be quiet enough so that it won't bother me (I know this is all very highly subjective) I have a microphone fairly close to my system and would like the noise level to not be to intrusive. I commonly use this system for gaming and live streams so I would like it's noise levels to be quiet during gaming loads. I would really appreciate some help in choosing a cooler for my build. I am not averse to either air or liquid cooling but I do not want to create a custom water cooling loop as this is not something I am comfortable with. I would also like the cooler to look good and fit my all black build as I do have a glass window. My budget is fairly flexible as long as the cost is nothing too crazy so I am open to any and all suggestions. I would very much prefer suggestions that are based on personal experience Thank you in advance for any assistance

Edit: This issue was never resolved. I've encountered an issue that I can simply not resolve at this point. I do not have physical access to this computer and never will. I have been providing remote support to the owner for a few days now. My first choice of action at this point would be to remove the boot drive, but the owner is not comfortable doing so, as it is an all-in-one. The model is the Aspire 5600U. Let me start off by explaining that I have absolutely hated dealing with this computer. It came with Windows 8.1, and I concluded it was time for an upgrade to Windows 10. The upgrade went smoothly, but then issues started pouring in. A day after the install, the computer refused to enter the desktop after logging in, with a black screen that lasted over ten minutes. This was resolved rather quickly, as I told him to just reinstall with his installation media. Now, I've reached a dead end. When his computer boots, it immediately enters an infinite error, as seen below. The computer hangs on this screen, randomly rebooting every 10 or so minutes, ending back at this screen. He's tried to enter the BIOS by spamming F2 (Default for Aspire 5600U), with no luck. The computer simply does not seem to let you enter the BIOS without it having a bootable Windows installation. He let this go for about two-three hours, with absolutely nothing changing. There is never an option to select a boot drive during startup, and the POST screen displays absolutely no information. This computer seems to boot automatically into Windows. If any of you can come up a resolution to fix this POS of a computer, I would be very grateful.

We all know that a CPU thermal throttles at around 100 degrees celcius and it could damage itself above 125 degrees, that's why it would turn off your system at such critical temps. But what is 'too hot' for an aoi liquid cooler? I have a H100v2 which keeps my i5 6600k at 25-30 degrees while idle, and around 50-55 degrees while gaming. The AIO itself settles at 44 degrees celcius, this is mainly due to my gpu (1080TI), before my GPU upgrade it settled at 40 degrees. My 1080TI is very quiet, but now my H100i fans are ramping up (spinning at 2000RPM at 44 degrees liquid temp). They DO make a lot of noise. I want to ajust my fan curve so they spin up more gradually and max out at higher temps. What should be my target? What is the maximum temperature of the H100iV2 itself? When could it potentially damage the pump? The fittings? Something? Can't really find anything for this on the internet...

I'm currently helping my mom find a solid all in one for the money. She wants a touch screen, large enough screen, and something that folds. I suggested the 2017 surface pro (yes I know not a pc), but was wondering if there is a better and maybe even cheaper option possibly with a quad core?

Hey guys, I've got a bit of an issue. I have a Lenovo all in one that I'd like to use as a monitor for a PC but it only has an HDMI output. Is there anything I can do in regards to software that can make the PC usable as a second monitor? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks

I am planning to buy a new machine, but I am not sure what I should go with, either Laptop or an All in One? I am thinking to spend around $ 1500 bucks on it. Please let me know how the bench-marking might differ on All-in-One's and Laptops. I have never used an all-in-one before so I am open to all suggestions. Thank you everyone. Regards Ayush Chandel

Hey everyone! I'm hoping I can get a bit of insight from y'all today.The issue is that I've been wracking my brains over whether or not to sell my aging PC and go all-in on a gaming laptop that'll do everything or to get myself a decently fast 2-in-1 general purpose laptop and to begin to reuse my home PC again.For reference, my PC at the moment is:i7 6700k (@ stock clocks) GTX 960 16GB 2133 RAM 1TB HDDI've been out of PC building for a good while so I didn't know what the state of play was like in regards to the later i7 generations, but it turns out that as far as laptop processors go, they're only just beginning to catch up to my 6700k. As the i9 is faaaaar out of my budget, no matter what I do, I'd be sacrificing some element of CPU speed if I replace my PC for a powerful gaming laptop.GPU is a different story however. A laptop's 1060 (including Max-Q) seems to handily outperform my 960 in most regards now. As long as I don't go for a 1050 or 1050Ti in my laptop, I'll be upgrading. This is definitely a good plus for me.I'd like to use the machine for video editing and processing as well and have previously used Sony Vegas, but I've heard that Premiere Pro would make better use of an Nvidia GPU? Can anyone confirm? If that is the case, the drop in CPU performance could perhaps be made up by the GPU upgrade, on paper. As I plan on keeping with Intel 8th gen, CPU performance is still a high priority (~i5-8300H) but would need to be a compromise that wouldn't go much higher than that.If I go for a general purpose laptop, it'd be no lower than an i5-8th gen which would still be plenty good for me to do most of my lighter tasks (maybe even including lighter video and photo editing) as well as hobby writing. I do like me some hobby writing. In this case I'd maybe consider one of the higher grade HP Pavilion 2-in-1's (which handily comes with an i5-8265U, a nice upgrade over the 8250U) and an Nvidia MX130 for those barebones GPU accelerated processes. I could focus on putting the extra money towards a decent 1060 (and an SSD) for my desktop PC and use that as my main workstation, which would still be leaps ahead of most laptops. Either way I feel I'm planning to spend approx. the same amount in either direction.Also the 2-in-1's are pretty damn attractive. I can't pretend I don't prefer their looks, battery life, portability and overall decent performance for the size. I don't really like the "GAMER" aesthetic of gaming laptops, and needing to carry a power cord ontop of a 2-3kg beast doesn't appeal to me much... But I do love me some bells & whistles. And RGB. Oooh baby dat RGB.Hate "GAMER" aesthetic but loves RGB, go figure. ANYWAY. Sorry for the long post but I've been trying to decide for about 2 weeks now.tl;dr - Do I sell my PC and sacrifice CPU performance but improve GPU performance? Or get a secondary laptop and upgrade my home PC? What would you do with a budget of ~£900 (~~~$1200)? Some links:- i5 comparative scores (General and Gaming vs My Desktop)- GTX 960 vs 1060 relative performance comparison (Max-Q)- Potential candidate? HP Omen (i5-8300H, GTX 1060 3GB)- Potential candidate? HP Pavilion (i5-8250U, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD)

Hi, I was looking at my pc a few days ago and I said, "this is loud and hot, lets water cool" so while looking, I found Lots of hardline, aio, and Softline. Then I looked on ltt for water cooling, and want to see what Linus and the team would do, so here's my challenge: Water-cool as much of a system as possible (Cpu, Gpu, Harddrive/SSD, Ram, ect) with as much of it being all in one (Extra points if you can make it in a Corsair spec 01 (Because that's what I have)). Heres a few ideas Kraken G12 (because phoenix has poor gpu compatability) Corsair H50 (to go with the G12) Corsair H60 (CPU) or Ek Phoenix My specs: Corsair spec 01, Intel Core i5 7500, 8gb of corsair vengeance lpx ram (1 stick), 3x Corsair sf120, Cooler master t2, 2x 1TB WD Black,

Hello everyone, I have a laptop with a broken hinge. As a fun project and to make PC usable again I am making it into an all-in-one. A problem that I am having is how to cool it. The cooling solution that came with the laptop was severely insufficient. I was thinking water cooling. However, how would I power the pump. I was thinking sense my laptop came with a Leap Motion built in. The Leap Motion looks and seems like it was connected via an internal USB cable. Could I run a pump off of this? Does anyone have any ideas? This is the first time I've ever endeavored on a project like this so any ideas are greatly appreciated.

I have seen this topic amongst the forums in different iterations, but I am hoping that I can get some responses to this as it pertains to my needs! I am currently using a 2012 27" iMac, i7, 24g ram, GTX 780M 4g, 3T Fusion drive. At the time I ordered this, it was the best configuration you could buy less the ram which I did myself. I have been using this computer daily since I got it and aside from a reinstall I did a few months back I have had no major issues with it. I would not say that I am dedicated to the Apple platform, so I am open to Windows options as well. There is nothing wrong with my current computer, but I like to try and get something new before the current one dies out. This computer is going on 6 years (2012 iMac bought in 2013), and it has exceeded the amount of time I expected it to last. Having said that, I am in no major rush, and if something better will be out in a few months I have no issue waiting. I figured that a 2018 iMac would be available but there appears to be nothing on the horizon for it My budget is around $3500 CAD after tax. I would like to get something that will last another 5-6 years. I do not game much, the odd game of WoW, I do run multiple VMs, I do the odd video edit, and past that it is really just for browsing and media consumption. I would like the following in the machine: - 4k + display - SSD based (1T or 2x500 with around 3T spinning drive) - Small size or all-in-one So whats everyone opinion? Do I wait for the next iMac? Pick up the previous iMac? Get an all-in-one? Or build something custom?

Hey so I've had an Enermax Liqmax 120S AIO liquid cooler for a little over a year now and it works great. However, it just occurred to me that because I'm not able to change the liquid inside, I'm going to eventually have to change the entire cooler. I was wondering what the average life span for one of these is, so I can prepare my wallet for the future

I have an all-in-one HP desktop. It has VGA and DisplayPort at the back but no HDMI. I want to get a custom built Desktop without having to buy a new monitor due to budget issues. I was wondering if there was a way to find out whether the DisplayPort at the back is an input or output without connecting a separate monitor as i do not own any DisplayPort capable devices or even a DisplayPort cable. My PC is an HP ProOne 400 G1 if that helps.

Experiencing weird temps with my cooler. Using a Corsair H60 with a push/pull config in a Phanteks P400 TG. Seeing the temps are a little disturbing. This was recorded while playing BF1. Cpu is overclocked to 4.4GHz Is it possible my cooler is not able to handle this overclock? The cooler is over 3 years old now too. **EDIT** Just FYI, I idle in the 55C to 60C temps while just browsing the web.

Hey folks, I have a dear friend who just moved back in with his parents. His previous computer was lost in a serious accident and his parents did him a solid by buying him a replacement, but didn't check with him first and just got a "iMac look-alike" HP all-in-one. It is utilizing onboard graphics which cannot handle the games he and I play together. Since the accident he hasn't been able to get work, and wont for another few months. The CPU and ram in his new PC are decent so I was wondering if a external gpu might be the answer to this problem. Thanks for any advice. HP specs are in the picture below, as best I can get them from him.

I wanted to share this little afternoon project. It was cheap and easy and a good learning project. Tl;dr: I added $5 of hardware to a $25 tag sale PC to make it sounds ten times better. Last month, I picked up a tag sale potato PC, a Gateway ZX4250 All-in-One running Windows 8 (not 8.1, 8). (stock photo) When I say, "potato," I mean it sports an AMD E350 APU (dual core Zacate 1.6 GHz and Radeon 6310 graphics) and 4 GB of RAM. This is old stuff from the cusp of when "good-enough" computing included watching YouTube. Legacy Radeon drivers, no video out for a second screen... Really, barely any anything to speak of. There are 7" tablets more impressive. The whole idea is that it just barely worked at all, compared to previous cheapo chipsets that didn't. But took a Windows 10 upgrade, plays UWP Netflix and radio, plays YouTube in Edge, and plays DVDs in VLC. In short, for $25, it's a great kitchen PC for when I'm cooking. First, I decided to play around a bit with it. (CPU-Z validation, currently #5 all-time for desktop E350s. Which is not saying much, it's basically a list of 32 * FSB, ranked by how inaccurate the FSB is vs. 100 MHz reference) I was a bit shocked that it actually took over an hour of Prime95 to crash after doubling the clock rate without increasing the voltage. Robust little thing, that APU. It's pretty much perfectly stable at ~2200 MHz and that does help with CPU-bound workloads, but I've found that the GPU acceleration really makes the hot clocking unnecessary for what I ask of it. But it did have one Achilles heel for my purposes: the speakers are butt-grade crap. My smartphone has better speakers. I don't have any spare speaker sets lying around, except for the satellites from an old Altec Lansing surround set. (stock photo) The subwoofer (which has the amplifier) is long gone, since it got damaged when I was moving, but I'd never gotten around to getting rid of the satellites themselves. As it happens, I've been getting more and more into hobby electronics, and one of my soldering practice projects was a little LM386 audio amplifier board... (my photo) ... and the speakers work just fine with those. On top of that, the RAM access hatch on the system has some significant free space underneath: (via an eBay listing for the back cover) So I stuck a cheap amp into that hole. (my photo) Looks great! (my photo) ... Eugh. Well, this side you don't need to see. The soldering is messy as heck (I had desoldered a flux-heavy board just before this project and it was hard to flow solder onto the joins rather than onto the tip), but it works. There are a few apprentice marks here and there, too, where the tip hit plastic. Let me break down the parts: PAM8403-based miniature stereo audio amplifier - $0.99 Shenzen special via eBay (listing photo) DC barrel power jack, panel mount (10 pack for $0.99, Shenzen special via eBay) L&R pair for RCA audio jacks, panel mount ($0.99, Shenzen special via eBay) 3.5mm TRS audio jack, panel mount (5 pack for $0.99, Shenzen special via eBay) Relatively big capacitor to filter the power supply and absorb plug-in pops, I think 1000 uF/10V (two for $0.99 at Radio Shack) Spare 5V power adapter (lying around) I measured the plugs with calipers and drilled out the appropriate sized holes, then stuck 'em on and screwed them down. Did some basic continuity checks to double check which connector on the TRS and DC jacks went where, then soldered them appropriately. Soldered the cap next to the DC jack in parallel, relying on the amp board itself to discharge the cap when not in use. Plugged the PC's regular audio output jack into the input TRS jack. And it sounds great. Like, it's not winning awards for sound quality, but it gets plenty loud and sounds good-enough full with decent bass. It's a huge upgrade over the stock audio. Those little PAM8403 boards are amazing. I rely on the volume of the PC's speaker output to control overall volume, rather than getting a potentiometer-equipped audio board. Not bad for five bucks all in! -- Lessons for next time, though: If you're reaching around the back to plug in speakers from the front of the system, the left/right layout I chose is actually unintuitive. (FactoryCAD)

Hello, I've bought a Toshiba Satellite p55w-c5316 from Best-Buy last year and due to the screen being 4k UHD, it is causing a lot of problems with programs such as Camtasia, Sony Vegas Pro 13.0, Games such as Runescape, Steam Launcher, Technic Launcher, due to this I've decided to return the laptop to Best-Buy because of the issues and the resolution problems had. I want a laptop that can handle 1080p 60Fps Video Editing in Camtasia, Sony Vegas pro and also Adobe Premiere, and lastly Gaming, no not the top of the line games which are visually demanding, but little things like Technic Launcher, Runescape, and Rust. I'd prefer an internal graphics card that is upgrade-able, 12GB of ram which could also be upgraded if needed, and safely overclock-able to help with the rendering process. Any suggestions for a laptop, that would do both the gaming and video editing, I would also be doing light browsing and some M.S office things on it as I am still in college. Thanks. ~Nex Shwayze~

**TLDR** Restore my PC without any partitions. PC model: ASUS ET2321INTH So I got this 'manufacturer referbished' AIO PC I wanted to give my parents ( I know they suck but my parents aren't gamers so it'll do just fine for them) but it has a partitioned HDD, one part for the OS and one part for any data. I think its really stupid to do this and its only going to confuse my parents. I was wondering if there is a way of restoring the PC so it is not partitioned. I don't have any OS disk or anything, so I figured if there was no other way that I'd just buy windows 10 and reinstall it and restore the HDD that way. I'd prefer not to though, so please if anyone knows any other way your help would be greatly appreciated