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Showing results for tags 'wifi'.
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Hi all - I am currently building a NAS for my home and I had a Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI motherboard sitting around that I wanted to use for the project. The motherboard has WiFi on it and I was wondering since I know in Gigabytes BIOS there is no way to disable the WiFi, if it is possible to disable it somehow in TrueNAS? I do not want to have to get a different motherboard if I can avoid it. -
Also would like to know ONT/ONU of which brand should I use with Asus/TP-Link router?
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I have AT&T fiber 500 Mbps connection. All my other devices(laptop, android phone mac computer) seem to easily hit the 500 mbps download on speed test, but the wifi on my desktop after installing this new usb wifi adapter barely gets to 200 mbps. I have checked everything else and I only thing that is weird is the receive link speed being capped at 54 mbps when the wireless adapter should be capped at 1.3 GB. Link to wireless adapter: https://www.netgear.com/support/product/a7000 To make things weirder when I run "netsh wlan show interface" on the cmd prompt I get this: Receive rate (Mbps) : 1300 Transmit rate (Mbps) : 1300 I've tried updating device driver and even downgrading the netgear software version. Would appreciate any insights. Wireless information(from windows page): Protocol: Wi-Fi 5 (802.11ac) Security type: WPA2-Personal Network band: 5 GHz Network channel: 44 Link speed (Receive/Transmit): 54/1300 (Mbps) DNS suffix search list: attlocal.net Manufacturer: NETGEAR Inc. Description: NETGEAR A7000 WiFi USB3.0 Adapter Driver version: 1030.18.1201.2016 Device info: Device name DESKTOP-I4RU14D Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-9600K CPU @ 3.70GHz 3.70 GHz Installed RAM 16.0 GB Device ID 20BEDC33-0749-49AA-8513-A81EAF7C1FD1 Product ID 00325-96052-14281-AAOEM System type 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor OS info: Edition Windows 10 Home Version 22H2 Installed on 6/26/2020 OS build 19045.3086 -
Can you make your own DIY cable modem out of old computer parts?
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Some PS5s (maybe all) could have issue with HDMI cable signal, which interfere with WIFI making console unable to successfully establish connection with the internet. The problem is with the position of the cable in relation to the console. Cable near to the upper white plate (when console is laying on one side) could cause the issue ( like on the photo ). In my case i solved it by moving cable as far as i can from upper plate second photo. Issue is happening more often for 4K signal than 1080p. Check also with HDMI org certified, screened cables. I also confirmed 2 others cases on reedit. When moving cable solved the issue.
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Hey there, I am from Canada and i use Bell's GigaHub 3000 (3000mbps download/upload). I also have a Cat7 cable (supposedly 10,000mbps/s speeds). My motherboard is the Gigabyte AeroG Z690 DDR4 with a 2.5gb Ethernet port on the IO. When i do speed test on google or Ookla, i only get around 980mbp/s speeds, but on the Hub i get the 3000mbps speeds. Can someone help me solve my internet issues and get what i pay for? Thank You,
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ill cut to the chase suddenly wifi not connecting on my pc its only on my pc for some reason had pci driver issues, fixed them updated windows 11 all pending software updates checked out all reddit forums tried to update my mobo wifi drivers tried changing from 5ghz to 2.4 entering the right password ofc, either stuck on authenticating or connecting or just says cannot connect to this network only works when i use my mobile data as ethernet even mobile hotspot wont connect i have tried troubleshooting by doing "find and fix network issues", no good either when i go to settings>troubleshoot>other options>network and internet, it says the required app not installed on the device (i think its cuz i used a bloatware removing software? idk how to undo that, did it a long time ago and it doesnt say what app to install to run network troubleshooter) why all so suddenly mane edit: going into control panel>network and internet> Network connections>wifi>properties>configure>advanced under the advanced tab there is a property tab which says "802.11a/b/g/ wireless mode" highlighted blue (and many more below this) and to its right is the value select down menu with various options 1. 5GHz 802.11a (doesnt work) 2. 2.4GHz 802.11b (connects but is hella slow and not practical) 3. 2.3GHz 802.11g (works decent and is 1/4 of the speed i guess) 4. 2.4GHz 802.11g/b (same results as above) 5. Dual band 802.11 a/g (stuck on attempting to authenticate) 6. Dual band 802.11a/b/g (this was the default setting and doesnt work either) sorry i dont know much about wifi connectivity issues, i cant seem to make any sense out of this i feel like the only solution is reinstalling windows if its a driver issue? which i believe is not cuz i tried updating and rolling back wifi drivers in device manager and even swapping the selected drivers which were already on my system. any suggestions? wifi adapter: Intel(R) Wi-Fi 6E AX201 160MHz
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Hello, all! I'm a networking newbie in need of some assistance. Please let me know if this one belongs more on the gaming subcategory. I figured it's more of an internet issue than a game issue. Here's what's happening: My Nintendo Switch cannot connect with other players online. I believe this is due to my NAT type being in the 'D' category. Here's my setup: I'm running an HP T620 Plus with OPNSense as my router (my ISP-provided by Cox is in bridge mode). I'm running that to a Ubiquiti Switch which is connected to a U6-Pro AP and a small Intel computer running Ubuntu that houses the Unifi controller software. Attached is a picture laying out my whole network setup. Other problems I've been having that might(?) be contributing: I haven't been able to properly get my OPNSense router and my Unifi setup to communicate with one another properly. Sure, my internet works fine and is pretty fast, but I can't seem to do more advanced(?) things like VLANs and such. I'm a total newbie at this stuff, so I think I'm way out of my depth here. Would anyone be able to help me diagnose my issue or contribute some ideas for solutions? Has anyone seen NAT D problems on Unifi setups before? Thanks a ton!
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i currently have a EWS356 AP an its ok but the web ui is shit an any time need to adjust advanced settings i have to do a total reset as for some reason every time lock in desired settings i lose access to the web ui an any app control so with the EWS356-FIT do i get access to the advanced settings that are in the web ui but vi the fit app an are ther any screen shots of this an with the EWS356-FIT can i set 6 different ssid & passwords on the 5ghz band vi the fit app an not have to use the web ui an what the lowest tx power level i can set my current is for the non-fit is 11 which puts the signal way out into the street an somewhat into the neighbors yard which is slightly better then my old asus1750ac which blasted half of neighborhood but still sucked ? if the fit's tx power level can be set lower to like 9 or 7 i think that it would cover just my home an some of my yard which would be great right now my EWS356 is dead center of my home all devices are getting a good green signal at -45dbu 20feet outside my home is -64dbu so i think that if the fit's tx can be set down to 9 or 7 id be still good. also can the fit's bandwidth range be set as low as 20mhz
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Hi im having an issue with wifi and network adapters not working on my new windows 10 install, help would be appreciated, thanks.
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I'm directly linked into the Wi-Fi Adapter (Linksys EA6350) with an Ethernet Cable not a few feet away from my computer and I've been having troubles with loading webpages and even getting into Discord calls. Meanwhile there a laptop my mom owns on next floor up and on the other side of the house yet she's in discord fine. Not sure if the issue is software based on my computer or if it's related to my Wi-Fi router or even my Modem. Any help would be very appreciated and hope you all have an easier day then me so far!
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Hi, I have a 100Mbps connection at home and when I do a speed test (Ookla), with lan, I get a reading of 80-90Mbps. But then I use the wifi, which is from a TPLink DIR615, in 2.5Ghz, I get a speed of only 30-50Mbps. (My model does not support 5Ghz and only has 20Mhz and 40Mhz channels). Any suggestions and insights would be welcome.
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Hey, in beggining of August I plan on upgrading PC, almost from scratch, I will only leave case, PSU and SSD disk. Since I don't have a very big budget I want to build my PC around Ryzen 5 5600 and RX 6550. For this I need a motherboard with AM4 socket. My favourite is B550 model, and I want to ask you guys about recommendations. I would like to have OC on it so in future I can give it a try. The other thing is Wi-FI and Bluetooth, at the moment I don't use any devices with Bluetooth, but in future I will probably want to switch my Keyboard, Mouse, Headset, etc. for wireless devices, so my question is: Should I get motherboard with integrated Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, or is it better to buy an expansion PCI card later on. Open for opinions! -
Hello there!!, I want to share an issue I'm experimenting since I bought my Router, When i ran speeds test and download large files, my Router always slow downs in a V graphic and later go up again, but later do the same slow down, I wonder if anyone experience this issue with this or other model, i had the same problem with a Belkin router. I'm currently using an Poco F3, Galaxy Tab A7, Moto g41 and moto G20 for testing my router. And of course I run the test with Wifi Only, a meter away, and different speed test and servers. I want to clarify my Modem ISP runs perfectly good without that issue as well the UTP Cat5e cable I'm connected. Thank for your attention and I'm waiting your help.
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Hey everyone, so I have this situation. This is about the layout of my house not being accurately measured but close enough. M is for the main router and modem, and the numbers are the points. I am currently using a DOCSIS® 3.1 Cable Modem (CM1100) Nighthawk® Multi-Gig Cable Modem from Netgear, which is connected to one Google wifi router. The numbered circles are all Google wifi routers. I am not a wifi expert, but from what I've seen using the app and from the speeds I'm getting, something isn't right. We get drops in speed, and the only reason one of the points is good is that there is an ethernet cable running from M to 1, at least, that's what I think. The others idk what is up with them, but they don't seem to work. Please let me know if I should provide any other info.
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Hello Tech Friends! I just yesterday ran into an odd problem with my Wifi Adapter that seemed like it would be an easy fix, and is turning out to be more difficult than expected. I was using my PC yesterday like normal, playing some games & browsing the web, when suddenly I got completely disconnected from Wifi. I haven't download anything new recently or performed any new unique tasks on my computer, it happened very suddenly. If I navigate within the Control Panel to Control Panel\Network and Internet\Network Connections, it shows my Wifi as "attempting to authenticate", and is stuck indefinitely trying to connect. I should note that I can still browse & see Wifi Networks available to be connected to, and all my other devices are connecting to my Wifi without an issue. This lead me to believe the issue relates to my motherboard's (Z390 I AORUS PRO WIFI) built in Wifi Adapater (Intel R Wireless-AC 9560 160MHz). Based on this hypothesis I've tried to following fixes: 1. CMOS Reset Button on Motherboard 2. Updated all motherboard drivers & BIOS 3. Uninstalled & Reinstalled Wifi Adapter Driver 4. Disable & Reenabling the Wifi Adapter 5. Run "Diagnose" option within Network Connections Control Panel > This actually fixed it for about five minutes before going back to Authenticating 6. Ensuring the Properties on my Wifi have "Can turn this off to save power" option is de-selected. Curious if anyone has any other ideas I could try. Still very surprised this happened, as I wasn't doing or downloading anything new, and it happened very suddenly mid-use. My computer is kept very clean, and wasnt damaged or anything recently. Thank you! Tyler (Seattle)
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As the title suggests, all of a sudden my wifi started to give me "Connected, No Internet. Secured" unprovoked. I had changed nothing and done nothing between when it was working and when it broke. After it broke, I proceeded to 1. Reset network settings 2. Update LAN & Wifi drivers 3. Update bios 4. Update chipset but to no avail. These are my specs: Windows 10 Pro ASUS WAVE ROG STRIX B560-E GAMING WIFI B560 11th Gen Intel i5-11400F Kingston HyperX Fury DDR4 3600MHz Gigabyte GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8GB SAMSUNG 980 PRO SSD with Heatsink 1TB PCIe Gen 4 NVMe M.2 SAMSUNG 860 QVO 1TB Kingston SA400S37960G Has anyone encountered this before or have any idea how to help me with this issue?
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Hi all! I've come across a weird issue with my home network that seems to have poor documentation within windows and feel like you experts may have some answers. Recently I changed internet providers which required me to reconfigure my home network. I'm using the same router but the internet is coming in via a new modem. Anyway I have an issue now where my WIFI network is populated at the very bottom of the available networks list when I attempt to connect to it (this is extremely annoying since I live in highly populated apartment building) and my windows 11 devices disconnect after sleep or shutdown, requiring me to both reconnect and re-enter the WIFI password every time. I have no clue what may have happened to cause this, the only hint I have is that my WIFI network Icon now looks has a weird 'X' symbol affixed to it. Any ideas on what this means? I found another user asking the same question on the windows forum last year to no avail, this image is from his post for clarity but it appears exactly as mine does. Any insight that could be provided is deeply appreciated.
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So basically my problem is that I want to see how to improve my internet speed on my Ps4. I just moved into a rental house where the owner provides wifi. At my old place, I just plugged my router into the wall port and ran an ethernet cable to my Ps4 for a Lan connection and it was super fast. Now I cannot run a long enough cable to the owner's router and the 2.4 GHz that the Ps4 connects to is very slow and unusable. The 5g connection from the owner's router is fine on my computer and phone, but the Ps4 internet is slow. I have my own router here and when I tried plugging it into an ethernet port on the wall in my room it didn't get any internet connection. The router the owner has is a gigaspire connected to what I believe is a modem provided by the ISP that is connected to a GPON thing on the wall. How can I either hook up my router in my room or improve my internet speed?
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Hello all, I am trying to find a PCIe x1 or PCI card with WiFi & Bluetooth without USB. I got the TP-Link AX3000 unaware it needed USB connection. If I give it an actual USB connection, then I lose USB ports (OEM mobo and can't change). Not ideal. Can anyone recommend a card that would fit my needs? (Or if there's such thing as an internal USB hub and it would work, then that might be okay... )
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I am facing this weird audio stuttering issue with by BT Headset when paired with my laptop. I am using JBL T460BT. Laptop Lenovo Ideapad Gamming 3 . This headphone works fine with my phone and I have tried using other Bluetooth device, with my laptop the problem is still there just not as much as with this headphone. I have tried reinstalling the audio driver, Tried Audio Troubleshoot in windows 11. My system is up to date no drivers no OS updates pending even the BIOS is up to date. I tried updating the firmware on my Headphone but was not able to do so. One weird thing is the problem is completely resolved when i am not connected to any WIFI network, so the only workaround i found was to use Internet using USB tethering and turn off the WIFI this solves the issue but is not suitable all the time. can anyone please suggest me what I should try next or what this issue can be.
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Hi! I'm currently looking for ways to upgrade my router, and I'm a total newbie on this My office is currently under 800mbps internet speed. There's been an issue that if there's too many devices connect to the wifi, people will start having trouble to connect to the wifi. I been looking into this myself, and from what I understand, does upgrading my router to Wifi 6 router help? (ASUS RT-AX3000) I'm totally confused by these and would appreciate if there's any suggestion, because I don't really want to spend money on wifi 6 router and ended up not working . Thank you!!
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Hey! so im trying to set up my windows hotspot to play my oculus quest via air link. My only error is a weak signal from my hotspot. Even on my phone my windows hotspot has 1 bar of signal, the antenna is about 60cm away from me. I cant find anything online as google it only brings up weak signal issues between a router and a pc. Anyone got any ideas? Ive reinstalled drivers, reinstalled the antenna into the pci card... got no idea. Its an ax200 wifi card from Aorus, GC-WBAX200
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For the past month now I haven't been able to play any games because whenever try launching a game, my ethernet gets disabled, my Bluetooth icon disappears, and my Wi-Fi stops working. I have reinstalled windows 10 and 11 3-4 times now, and tried installing/updating the ethernet/lan/Bluetooth drivers from the ASUS STRIX B550-F (WIFI) driver site. And they don't work. I checked Reliability something and i found this error: Source Windows Summary Hardware error Date 5/14/2023 10:30 PM Status Not reported Description A problem with your hardware caused Windows to stop working correctly. Problem signature Problem Event Name: LiveKernelEvent Code: 141 Parameter 1: ffff850c3a16f010 Parameter 2: fffff80092973730 Parameter 3: 0 Parameter 4: 0 OS version: 10_0_22621 Service Pack: 0_0 Product: 768_1 OS Version: 10.0.22621.2.0.0.768.101 Locale ID: 1033 I just got this mother board a few months ago, and it was working fine up until a month ago. my specs are: Ryzen 7 5700X GigaByte RTX 3050 OC ASUS ROG STRIX B550-F GAMING (WIFI) 32GB CORSAIR RGB Ram (4x8gb @3600mhz) M.2 500GB boot drive various 500-1000gb ssd's 2023-05-14 22-44-03.mkv -
Hello people, First, a prelude: As an unwitting owner of a laptop with the much maligned Realtek 8821AE WIFI chip, much like most of you I ran into certain issues. Disconnects, hangs/slowdowns of the whole machine while apparently it's not doing much, inability to connect back to any 5Ghz network if I choose to manually select a network and God forbid click the 'Disconnect' button, etc., etc. I am Windows 10, updated with the latest driver from the manufacturer's website. No amount of clean installs or solutions online worked, aside from maybe using a very old driver which may or may not have performance issues too. Unfortunately, the new drivers have been uploaded to MS servers so Windows Update kindly gives them back to you. Somewhere while looking online for this for the N-th time I stumbled on some linux forums stating they too have issues, one comment of which stood out to me - PCI bus and timing issues. *insert gears moving gif* There is a particular tool called MSI mode utility v3 (*LINK*, read the thread if you have the time, its interesting and you will context for what you are doing) which allows you to easily switch between INT and MSI interrupt modes for devices on PCI lanes. By default, drivers and hardware decide which to use - WIFI chips use MSI mode (newer, better), while some GPUs still use INT mode (older, currently somewhat simulated, more compatible). Lo and behold, no more issues! For good measure, I disabled the capability of the WiFi chip to sleep too, but that by itself had no effect earlier, so the real solution is INT mode. No more hangs, no more 5Ghz issues and I can switch networks in peace. TL;DR: I switched the 8821AE from MSI mode to INT mode using the tool from the link above and this SOLVED things for me! (pic included) This is not a very small change and is reversible and is essentially a small registry tweak. It should not break your system. Still, you do this at your own risk. Comment below with your results.
