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Hi. Today i'm gonna answer why Toshiba laptops always sucks... Because, they never designed with good cooling... If you wanna got extreme Thermal Throttling, then buy Toshiba laptop... My Toshiba Satellite P50-B-11U laptop on Summer with gaming, CPU got thermal throttling and unstable performance. CPU frequency down to, 1.5 GHz and 2.2 Ghz... Always unstable and never stable... Already Toshiba stopped produce laptops in Europe... They made laptops in only Japan. I'm using Toshiba Satellite P50-B-11U laptop with Intel core i7 4720HQ processor with AMD R9 M265X (2 GB GDDR5) graphics card actually. Also, i have troubleshooting with my Toshiba laptop. When i turned my laptop to "Sleep mode" and after wake up, when i run any game with my AMD R9 M265X, that graphics card shows temperature "0C" and after 1 minute later, laptop shutdown unexpectedly... And laptop turning on itself automatically for 5 seconds, and again turning off itself and after again turning on itself and after, the graphics card censor can be work again well... So, i don't do "Sleep mode" anymore... Also, i'm using Windows 10 Home Single Language (64-Bit) no any virus, completely clean system and also it's original license. By the way few years ago, Toshiba made gaming laptops called "Toshiba Qosmio Series" but, they still sucks i think... They have GTX 750M which is old and slower... I feel really sad about Toshiba. I support Toshiba but, they still have poor laptops. Nowadays Toshiba made only laptops for Office and Light works... This is means, if you are not a gamer or you don't make any render, and you think you are regular guy, then Toshiba is good choice for you but still the cheapest ASUS laptops much much better then Toshiba i think... I hope Toshiba made good gaming laptops as far soon... Or they won't do... I am not sure actually. But to be honest, i love Toshiba design on laptops but i hate poor performance. I am a guy and hating matt coating on screen actually... Toshiba laptops not have matt coating. My Toshiba Satellite P50-B-11U have LG Full HD AH-IPS screen. I love it but not about performance... So what do you think about this guys?
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hello guys. I need a reliable external hard drive for school and I need some advice which route to go. These are my options: Seagate Backup Plus Slim 1TB ($59.09) Seagate Expansion 1TB (STEA1000400) ($55.22) Toshiba Canvio Basics 1TB ($55.22) WD Scorpio Blue 1TB + Orico 2139U3 2.5in Transparent USB3.0 Hard Drive Enclosure ($55.22) I need something shuckable so Western Digital Passport is not on my list. btw I will be buying here if you have any other recommendations
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Hello People! This is my first post on the forum, which I write because I couldn't find anyone asking a question one such as mine. I own a stationary PC and about 1 year ago I bought a new HDD - Toshiba P300 1TB. I was excited about getting a new HDD, because my previous drive WD5000AKS 500GB was years old already. But as soon as I installed Windows 10 on my P300, the computer has this issue: Everything seems fine, but from time to time - it can be between 10 minutes period, it can be between 1 hour period - when I click on something, so that computer performs some action (for example: open an .jpg file, load a page in a browser), the computer freezes for a moment - usually 1 minute max. During freeze I can move my mouse, hide browser pages and folder windows, and click on things, but it will still only show "loading wheel" near my mouse pointer for a period of about 1 minute. And it's really frustrating, because it's a new HDD and it works worse than my previous years old HDD. I didn't have this issue with my previous HDD when running Windows 10. Maybe You Guys have some solution or explanation, why it may be so?
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I'm thinking of getting a new 4TB HDD to store all my drama/movie. Was looking at the WD Blue(64MB Cache)@5400rpm 4tb and Toshiba x300 pro(128MB Cache)@7200rpm 4tb Any advise or experience using any of these?
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So, I have a 10" Toshiba Encore 2 tablet with Windows 10 (originally came with 8.1) and with the following specs: Intel Atom Z3735, 2GB of ram, 32-bit OS and 32GB of eMMC (i think it's eMMC) storage. But there is a problem: the touchscreen goes unresponsive from time to time, or registers the touches very hard. No matter under what load the tablet is, the touchscreen goes unresponsive, but the tablet itself still runs fine, if I plug in a mouse or keyboard. I don't think it is a hardware issue since this also happens on my friends tablet, which is from another brand and has weaker specs. I've tried upping the page file, removing windows 10 apps, disabling a TON of settings and services (mostly telemetry stuff and unused features such as GSM and FM Radio, which aren't present on my tablet) and no success, the touchscreen still goes unresponsive. Also this happened on 8.1. I don't think it's a hardware issue since it also happens on other tablets. TL;DR: Touchscreen freezes at random times, indifferent under what load it is, on a windows tablet, but the device itself doesn't.
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I am looking to upgrade my mother's laptop (Toshiba C675-S7106). The concern I'm running into is if the power requirements for the upgrades could cause a problem and prevent the laptop from running. I've only worked on desktops until now. Looking to replace: i3-2350m --> i7-2630qm 2x2GB --> 2x4GB 1TB HDD --> 180GB SSD (using Macrium Reflect) After the upgrade (if things go right), I believe I will have to contact Microsoft to activate the laptop since it may consider the changes to be a new laptop. Question: Will these hardware changes cause any problems with power or anything else? Thank you!
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So I have been wondering for a while when it comes to storage. Since I use my computer for different things, I've set my computer up to have 7 drives connected at all times. I try to not interfere another drive when it's in use, so I can then use another drive without worry. Some may have chosen to set up a RAID config, some might not. So this is the way I've done it, and here at my drives, and how I use them: Drive C: OS, drivers, frequently used software (Samsung 960 EVO - 250GB M.2) Drive D: CD/DVD burning/reading, driver install (Asus DRW-24D3ST - SATA) Drive E: Not-so-heavy/needy games (Western Digital WD20EARS - 2TB SATA HDD) Drive F: Heavy/needy games like GTA V (Samsung 850 EVO - 500GB SATA SSD) Drive G: Media like music, images, videos (Toshiba HDWD110 - 1TB SATA HDD) Drive H: Less often used software, assets (Kingston V300 SSDnow - 240GB SATA SSD) Drive I: Downloads, backup, video editing files (Seagate ST1000DM003 - 1TB SATA HDD) Just to make a few things clear: Nvidia's game capture software 'GeForce Shadowplay' is set to save recordings to drive F, the media drive. To avoid frame stutters and alike, GeForce Shadowplay needs it's own drive. And I've tried to record to a SSD, but didn't help much. Once in a while, I download many files at once, so I thought using a drive almost just for that would be a good idea, as downloading several things at once fragments the drive. When I got the files downloaded, I store them on another drive, then defrag the download drive, delete the downloaded files from that drive, and I'm good to go as far as I know. I also store backups and video editing files there, so keeping it tidy is nice. By the way, ignore drive X in the picture there. It's a USB thumb drive that doesn't sit in the computer all the time. Only drive C, D, E, F, G, H, and I is in the computer the whole time. Back to the point I wanted. What do you guys think of this setup? Is it too much, too messy, or is it okay in how I've set everything up?
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Hi, I have a toshiba l350 laptop that works pretty well without the charger.However, when I plug in the charger the laptop doesn't post.The Power led turns on, but I have a black screen. The fan starts to spin then the laptop shuts down. Basically, the laptop keeps restarting until I unplug the charger. Futhermore, If I start the laptop without the charger and I plug it in right after the post, the laptop doesn't shutsdown.
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Hi everyone! I have a Toshiba Satellite C55-a laptop and I was wondering if it is possible to upgrade its CPU from a Pentium 2020m to an i7 3740qm. I found on Ebay the 3740qm for under 100$ Also the Pentium 2020m has a 35 watt TDP and the i7 3740qm has a 45 watt TDP, will I get any other problems other than thermals? I know that it's physically possible to do this but I've been on a site that says it only has a 13% chance to successfully work. What does that mean? http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/CPUs/Intel/Pentium_Dual-Core_Mobile/2020M.html Thanks!
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I own a old 2008 toshiba laptop, rocking a i3 330m and a ATI Mobility Radeon HD 4650. I dunno where is the bottleneck coming. On csgo, i get fps spikes as high as 60 and as low as 10.
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Hi All, I have a Toshiba portege r9330 and the sound is being flaky, one minute it will work, and the next it will not. It is extremely annoying. The sound driver has been updated and there are no other issues with the laptop.
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I have a toshiba samsung ms28 drive and it does not read game disks very well.some games read and open up but they lag alot and get stuck,others get detected but when i try to open it says clean the disk and restart console.However this drive reads other disks like movies without any issue.The drive makes some loud noises too when reading both types of disks.What could be the problem?
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Hi everyone, I'm new to the LTT forums but I'm not new to their videos. I'm also relatively new to posting on forums so if I've made a mistake somewhere or if you'd like to tell me the norms of a forum (specifically this one) please tell me! So I have a Toshiba Satellite laptop, it's about two years old, and yesterday when I unplugged the computer, from "100% available", and web browsed for about 5 minutes the laptop shut off immediately without warning and the battery/charging light was blinking orange. I plugged the laptop back in and turned it on. It booted up and everything was fine (the battery indicated "6% available (plugged in, charging)") and I left it plugged in and I finished my work. However, after about a couple of hours the battery still indicated "6% available (plugged in, charging)". The issue is that Windows 10 tells me it's charging when it really isn't. I looked up solutions online and here is what I've tried so far: 1. Leave it plugged in overnight (still "6% available (plugged in, charging)") Early afternoon the battery indicated "3% available (plugged in, charging)" and later in the night it indicated "0% available (plugged in, charging)" 2. Disconnected the battery, cleaned the contacts, tried again 3. Disconnected the battery, unplugged all chords, pressed and held power button for 30 seconds (I guess to discharge the capacitors?) 4. Deleted the battery charging driver (that thing) in device manager, reinstalled it At this point I'm thinking the battery is faulty but I just want to make sure since I've never really had this problem before and I don't want to drop about $75 on a new battery. Also it may be important to note that I've had this laptop plugged in for about 3/4 or 2/3 of a year now. I don't move it around a lot but I'd still like the option to do so. If you have any suggestions or explanations as to why this happened it would be greatly appreciated!
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I have a Toshiba satellite l45-b4182sm and I have a huge problem, I fire up my laptop today and an error came up (0xc0000428) and tells me that the problem is windows/system32/drivers/TVALZ.SYS I don´t know what happened or how to fixed so I am need someone that can help me pls I really need help So if you need a picture of the error ask and I will
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Original source: http://www.theregister.co.uk/2016/08/10/toshiba_100tb_qlc_ssd/ Purposefully mirroring More drives for people to backup the internet to! QLC uses 4 bits per cell, and if you need a refresher on SLC/MLC/TLC: Reach 1PB of storage with only 10 Drives The customers? Probably the usual "hyper-scale customers", Google, Amazon, Facebook, any one of the TLA Government entities. Drive is available "In the near future" so expect it to be formally announced in another year, or if you're the writer of the OP article: A couple of specs (no idea where these numbers came from, but ohwell): And, if you're wondering about longevity, don't worry, this thing can survive PETABYTES of information, for a grand total of less than two hundred read/write cycles lol No price, obviously, the computer is still busy printing out all the 0's. For me, I'll wait until I can get it in a microSD form factor in 10 years.
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Integrated Intel HD graphics tend to be less than ideal when it comes to graphics cards. My Toshiba S55T-A5389 laptop runs more games than I thought possible o my Intel HD 4600, but it does not run them well. Being a college student, I want to maximize my current tech without having to buy an entirely new laptop, as this one has an Intel core i7 4700mq (not too shabby) and 16gbs of RAM. An external graphics card would be great for my budget rig. The problem is that there is no external slot for it. It's all internal. I don't have enough experience to go poking around to find out if my laptop as an mPCIe, Express Card (probably not), or a PCIe. So my question, is it possible for my laptop to use an eGPU, and how?
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I noticed that my Hard Drive lost a little bit of performance,not much,like 15% and all GTA 5 files where corrupted and unreadable.The thing is:The warranty of my pc is running out in 3 months.Should I leave the drive in, and wait until it completely fails or should I tell the dealer? And if I leave it in and it fails on me after the warranty runs out, should i get an SSD or an HDD? Note:There is nothing important on the drive, so if it fails, it isnt all that tragic.
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My laptop is a sh*tty toshiba L450D-13D and the problem i am facing is when i try to install any os Linux or Windows it will allways make some "Artifacts" and freezes and on windows it BSOD and it says please check your HDD but i made a bootable usb of GParted and it showed 0 bad sectors on the HDD and 0 errors then i check the ram with memtest86 no problem at all so i am stuck using Linux Debian and i cant use any other OS
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I recently took my laptop (Toshiba Satellite L755) apart to clean out the fan and internals. In after I put it back together everything works except sound. My headphone jack on the side of the laptop and it's speakers no longer produce any sound. However, USB headphones still work, suggesting that I somehow managed to break my internal DAC/Amp? Is there maybe a simple fix for this? I don't expect that there will be but wanted to ask just in case. Thanks
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Philips 40PFA4500,Funny how both look very similar Toshiba 40L2401 (This is a little cheaper for me)
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I am planning to get an OCZ Trion 150 480 gb ssd and was concerned with the limited 3 year warranty, and its low price tag. Anyone have one or know anything about it? And if it isnt good are there any better ones in the same price range? Thanks in advance.
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So I have this Toshiba laptop for 7 years and since the summer is coming again I thought I'd clean the heatsink fins it to prevent thermal shutdowns/throttling like last summer. Do note that I have a dog that sheds A LOT and front side balconies on a major street so tons of dust and hair floating around clogging the already pathetic cooler. Before opening it I took a second look under where the CPU fan is and I saw this http://imgur.com/uNRcruo There is a provision for vents for the CPU fan but they are not cut to allow air like you can see on the right side. Should I cut them open myself? What tool should I use to do it?
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So I was using my Toshiba Satellite S55-B normally, when I accidentally let its battery run out. I charged it back up, and it seemed to work fine, until I started up BOI: Rebirth today. My laptop is now struggling with games that it could run without a second thought before. The only thing I can think of is that the power failure somehow messed up my hardware. Any suggestions/ideas on what this problem could be? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Recently my Desktop PC HDD has failed so I'm going to buy 2Tb HDD. Can any one tell me about Toshiba HDDs are those good reliable HDDs?