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My SSD after exactly almost a year of usage now has it's health on 80%, i know NV1 is not that good of a model from kingston but i am trying to save it as long as i can since buying ssd's is way too expensive here. Is 80% after a year of usage (Installed windows multiple times, downloading stuff directly to it, sometimes playing movies and stuff off of it.) No games or important data on it tho, is it okay to drop to that level ?

SECOND AND FINAL UPDATE: After thorough testing I've confirmed that this is a software issue with Nvidia which is unfortunately beyond our control. I've found only one workaround and that is to turn off "Extend these displays" and use "Show only on X" (X being whatever your G-Sync monitor's number is) while you play games with G-Sync enabled. I've confirmed that this has completely resolved all issues and crashes for me. I know this isn't the solution you were expecting, especially if you use your second monitor to do other things (e.g. read chat messages) while gaming on your primary, but it's better than nothing as at least you don't have to completely unplug your secondary monitor(s) and can continue to use it as long as you don't run games. Multi-monitor G-Sync will only crash with games running, so you don't need to constantly turn G-Sync off and on while you're doing anything else (e.g. browsing or working). You'll only need to disable display extension while gaming. This solution is mostly aimed at people who use their G-Sync display as their main monitor and primarily for gaming, and only use their secondary monitor(s) for work (for example: if you are an artist and have a pen display connected). Of course, you can always just disable G-Sync altogether and use all your screens as you like without issues, and if you play competitive games (e.g. Valorant), it's recommended that you do turn it off to reduce latency. I hope this thread has helped some of you. Merry Christmas to all and a happy new year. UPDATE FOR ALL G-SYNC MONITOR OWNERS EXPERIENCING THIS ISSUE (READ THE DETAILED LETTER BELOW THE UPDATE): I've made a discovery after many tests. For currently unknown reasons, it was having G-Sync enabled with a second non-G-Sync monitor plugged in at the same time that caused the random Windows 10 crashes/freezes. I am still running further tests to figure out why G-Sync was exclusively causing this with a second monitor plugged in, but if you are having the same issue make sure you have ONLY the G-Sync display plugged in and no other monitor. This should solve any crashing/freezing issues (no guarantees of course, issues vary). It seems this is not a new issue with Nvidia, as I found similar threads for other monitors and PC specs from a few years ago, but they were using G-Sync compatible monitors. Well, seems this issue can apparently appear in native G-Sync as well. I will update this thread again when/if I have further news and/or a solution (so other monitors can be plugged in at the same time too). ----------- Hello, I recently purchased a new monitor, the ASUS ROG Swift PG279QM. It's running at 1440p 240Hz and has a native Nvidia G-Sync module. My GPU is ASUS' GTX 1080 Ti Strix OC. Nothing is overclocked. When G-Sync is on, the PC will randomly freeze forever during games until I hard-restart it via the reset button on the case. Here is how the crash proceeds: Game image will freeze entirely and permanently. Keyboard and mouse will lose signal and no longer function at all (keyboard caps lock etc. will not register either, so no LEDs). These two will maintain their electricity but if the keyboard is unplugged and replugged during the freeze, it will not get its power back. The mouse will. Though still nothing functions. Sound will keep playing in the background for about one minute but will gradually lose volume until it finally gets distorted and also gets cut off completely. At this point everything is nonoperational. Important notes: The PC does not, ever, restart on its own, regardless of how long I wait. If I don't use the reset button to restart the system, it will stay frozen like that forever. In this frozen state, the PC's hardware continues to work normally. There is no throttling or fans stopping or speeding up, everything carries on as usual. Since this is not registered as a crash/bluescreen by Windows, but just an unexpected manual restart, there is zero info on what failed prior to the freeze. If during the freeze the PG279QM is turned off and back on, it will turn on with extremely low brightness and no image (the previous game image that froze will be gone). I will still be able to open the OSD but see it just barely due to the low brightness. However, it will retain all of its settings, as the OSD will still show 1440p 240Hz and G-Sync (the LED on the monitor will also remain red indicating G-Sync is on). Note that the settings include the brightness. The monitor does not drop its setting to low brightness, it becomes dark with the normal brightness setting still there. However, if the PG279QM is unplugged from the GPU and then replugged, just like the keyboard, it will no longer receive signal at all, stating that no input was detected, at which point the brightness of the monitor returns to normal. So whatever causes the darkening specifically at least must come from a massive GPU driver crash. I also have a second monitor connected which is a 1440p 60Hz non-G-Sync one. Unlike the PG279QM, during the freeze, this monitor will retain its brightness even if it's turned off/on and/or replugged, as well as whatever image it was displaying before the freeze. This monitor will not lose signal no matter what. Nevertheless, it also stays frozen. I've used various Nvidia drivers, currently using the latest ones along with Windows 10 64-bit fully updated. If this is somehow a driver issue, it has not been looked into by Nvidia in the past 5 GPU drivers now. This bizarre freeze happens exclusively with G-Sync on and always with a game running. Especially if the game dips to 30 FPS (e.g. cutscenes, pause menus capped by the developers etc.). There has never been a crash with G-Sync off. The G-Sync freeze has almost always happened when a game was either paused or going through a loading screen at a capped 30 FPS. I've run many troubleshooting tests. The PC always runs cool even under 100% load for extended periods of time and passes all tests without errors. Unfortunately, this phenomenon is completely random and therefore impossible to recreate and troubleshoot. It could crash within an hour or go without a crash for days. Does anyone have any idea what might be happening? The monitor is brand new and appears to be working flawlessly. I also ran extensive stress tests on my PC to ensure the GPU isn't failing and got no issues. Is this perhaps a problem with Windows 10? I have not tried Windows 11 with G-Sync in games yet. After looking around online I also found the possibility that perhaps my PSU is failing. I had a 1080p 60Hz monitor before the PG279QM so it's possible that my PSU can't keep up with the massive specs upgrade. Any insight is welcome. Thank you for your time.

Hello I have a problem with usb c dp mode on a laptop and was hoping someone could help me with it. Let me clear it up a bit. It all started when the ssd suddenly completely died last week, so we bought a new one and clean installed windows. Then we installed all the amd drivers and nvidea drivers for my amd 4800H and rtx 2060 6gb. However, even tho we included the usb c drivers for both drivers we get no longer video from the usb c. Windows always gives a message now with following content "Display connection might be a limited". Before the crash, the usb c port handeld video out perfectly fine. Does anyone know a possible solution? I have tried following solutions alread: - internet off, go to safe mode, use DDU for both amd and nvidea, go back to normal windows(still no internet), install drivers, then internet - remove all devices related to usb and universal serial bus controller tabs, restart and led windows install what it thinks is best - update all drivers of nvidea and amd to newest - install default drivers of manufacturer (very first versions) - update windows - using thirth party driver update program(last resort, still nothing tho) specs of laptop: - BTO laptop, model 15X1087 (i think, bto is weird with its models and its not properly mentiont on the laptop) - amd ryzen 7 4800H - 32 GB ram - new ssd samsung 990 pro 1tb / old samsung 970 evo - nvidea rtx 2060 6GB - usb c port with support for dp from when it was new - windows 10 pro (old was windows 10 education) It would be wonderfull if anyone could help me with this. ps: this laptop is my brothers so it is possible i made a mistake in the specs, tho i am pretty sure this are the specs.

Hi, If ignoring any price differences, would you recommend a dual 2080 Ti set up or a single 4070 Ti for a productivity workstation? The main use case of the PC is primarily for programming/data analysis (most of the workload is CPU intensive but there may be the occasional deep learning models requiring GPU). The rig would be hooked up to a dual monitor set up (one super ultrawide 49" 5120x1440 & another smaller ultrawide 3440x1440). Not sure if it matters but the GPU(s) would be paired up with a Threadripper 5995WX set up. Thanks in advance!

Hello! First time using the forum so please excuse if this isn’t the right place to post this. First time builder here, was hooking up my asus 4070 ti super via the included 12 pin adapter. Didn’t make a click when I put it in, but it sat flush to the card. The cable is super tough and stiff! Anyways, took it out to try again, noticed these wires popping out in the middle, not sure if this is exposed wiring. Was this my doing or is this normal?

So, nothing flashy really. I reinstalled Windows, downloaded all you need for running a gaming rig, wanted to Test a game and there it was. Every game is starting as Borderless Fullscreen in my native Resolution(2560x1440p). I of course wanted to Switch to fullscreen but oh well, every time i do that, my Game displays at a lower than native Rez. Checked Display settings in the nvidia Control Panel and They are Fine. My screen gets detected by windows without a issue and Gaming on a ps5 with the screen works without any problems. This issue only began After the System reset. I already have reinstalled gpu drivers and tried with a different hdmi cable. I looked for DSR in the NVIDIA Control panel, but couldnt find it. i have a 4080super with an I9-11900k and my Monitor is the MSI MPG27 QD-OLED

Pretty much like the title said. Normally my computer stays on pretty much all the time (of course goes in sleep mode when not in use) and I had no problem with the card prior to this. I recently went on vacation so I turned the pc off. Around 10 days later I came back and when i powered the pc back on, instantly one of the fans on my graphic card started spinning up and running at 100%. I tried to update the nvidia drivers and restart the pc multiple time with no luck stil running at 100% no matter what from the moment the pc is powered on (so before windows). I tried to control the fans with msi afterburner and nothing, stays at 100%. the fan will occasionnally slow down for a few seconds before spinning right back up to full speed (and it's normal behavious for the other 2 fans). I turned off the pc for the night and came back to it today. Now today, when i started the pc at first the fan wasn't spinning (i thought success...), and then it started to spin up a little, then stop, then spin back up longer and then stop again. And right now, the fan will spin back up for a fews second to a minute before stopping again for a moment and then the same again, the fan really seems "unstable" and is about to go full speed at any moment. I fear that this might be a hardware problem? What can been done. Is there a chance it's software related? To note, I bought this card new in late 2020, and in 2021 I successfully changed the thermal pads on the card, so even if I don't really remember how(I'm the follow the tutorial only type of thinkerer), I'm technically able to open the card up to check the fan, and I was thinking, at the very least I would disconnect the fan cable and let the card run with 2 fans instead of 3, my case is pretty well ventilated, theres 2 big ass fan at the bottom that blow air directly on the card (fractal design torrent). And then see what can be done to repair the fan, maybe even send it to a shop to save me the hassle of changing the fan if it's not too expensive. thanks for the help!

I apologize in advance if this is not the right place to cry for help or if I posted incorrectly in this forum. Made an account moments ago to finally seek guidance on this issue that has persisted since January of this year. I also want to preface this by saying that I do not have much proficiency or understanding in computing/troubleshooting beyond consumer basics. In November 2023 I purchased an Alienware Aurora R16 w/ a NVIDIA 4800 and intel i9-14900KF processor. Windows 11 came preinstalled as its OS. I had no issues with my machine until mid January of 2024 when I noticed Palworld would crash quite frequently. I didn't think much of this since this was an early access title, but for the past four months now, virtually all of my PC games will crash constantly. Dark and Darker, WoW, Destiny 2, Halo MC collection, Persona 3R to name just a few--the crashes are not all from Steam games. At first it was rare to see BSOD with the crashes, but as of this past week it has become a very common occurrence. This past month particularly, I have noticed that browsers, discord, and even task manager/windows search bar at the bottom of the screen will suddenly crash and close themselves. I do not overclock my PC and have since uninstalled Alienware Command Center as a friend said that caused their PC to crash in the past, and I noticed it would sometimes attempt to boot my games in performance/overclock mode even though I had it designated not to. I have attempted multiple SFC scans, Windows Defender malware scans, Malwarebytes scans, updating my graphics card and Windows system to latest versions. Attempted the usual fixes for steam games (clearing cache, disabling overlays, reinstalling games). I downloaded Intel Extreme Tuning Utility and my 5-min stress tests came back clean. I also attempted slightly underclocking my machine via IETU per someone's recommendation and this did not appear to help. I am at an absolute loss for a fix and feel I have tried every solution I could google just short of completely reinstalling my PC to Windows 10. As of late, the most common BSOD error I have seen has been "Stop code: KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED" due to "BEDaisy.sys", which sounds like a conflict with battle eye anti-cheat in Destiny 2. I will attempt to upload the minidumps of some recent crashes for anyone to look at. I don't know if my RAM is corrupted, graphics card needs its drivers reinstalled via DDU, or if this hunk-of-junk Alienware machine just needs to be sent back to Dell. Its been a very disappointing experience to not be able to play anything without fear of constant crashes. Please let me know if there are other logistics I can post to help diagnose my problem and how I can fetch said logistics from my machine. I offer a thousand pleases and thank yous to anyone who can help this sad gamer resolve one of the most disappointing problems he's ever encountered with PC gaming - Joey *Also wanted to add that my browser will frequently give m ethe "Aw Snap" message related to STATUS_BREAKPOINT or STATUS_ACCESS_VIOLATION, making it impossible to run Dell's proprietary hardware scan as the browser will not stay open for more than 30 seconds. **BIOS is also currently up to date 050124-8562-01.dmp 050324-8375-01.dmp 050324-8453-01.dmp 050324-8468-01.dmp 050324-8515-01.dmp

Hi everyone, I'm posting since you're my last hope. Here'smy problem : i have a Gigabyte GeForce RTX 3070 Eagle OC 8G (rev 1.0) that is not working properly. The card is stuck at 210 MHz (at idle, on desktop, browsers but also when gaming). The memory clock seems to be ok (boost up to 7000 MHz when launching a game or Heaven Benchmark). The card is also reporting 225W consumption on the GPU when idling, and 280W when in benchmark, even if the GPU's still at 210 MHz. I can "overclock" it with Afterburner and do a + 1 000 MHz, so the card run a "normal" 1210 MHz. There are a few frame drop when using this profile in Afterburner, but consumption is still at 280W and temps are around 50°C. I have tried multiple things to have it running properly again : - Removing the driver (using DDU) and reinstalling them (multiple times) - Completely fresh Windows install - Flashing the BIOS (MOBO and graphic card using nvflash) - Tried the card on my wife's computer As you can imagine, neither of these worked for me, that's why i'm posting this. I'm currently using my "old" KFA2/GALAX GeForce GTX 1070 on the same system, which work perfectly fine, but i would like to get back the 3070 to its full performance. I used to watercool my PC, and had a leakage, but i dried the card, and it worked during multiple months after that, it doesn't seem damaged, but it could be a cause. Of course, the problem occured a few months after the end of the warranty. So, if anyone have an idea, i'm all ears ! Thanks PS : sorry if there are some mistakes in the post, english is not my native tongue

A friend of mine is planning a build, while talking we pretty much got stuck on making a decision The budget is not a problem, but he doesn't want to spend on something he won't use, which makes sense. Here's what he plans to do: Front-end Development for Web, but has plans to learn / use Back-end Little to no gaming, mostly League of Legends in 1080p, will likely switch to 1440p Would like to learn Photoshop and Adobe XD Even if he doesn't game much, he would like to have the option of being able to upgrade the PC further. __________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Having said all of that, here's what I had in mind and also my doubts / comments on each of them: AM4 - Ryzen 5600G or 5700G - No GPU If I recall correctly Photoshop can be GPU accelerated, what if it doesn't run well on integrated graphics? AM4 is the past gen, so I feel he would be spending money on something new... but old, if that makes sense AM4 - Ryzen 5600 or 5700 - RTX 3050 or 3060 The GPU seems to be more than enough for his little gaming and Photoshop Same concern regarding "purchasing something new but old gen", for both the CPU and GPU AM5 - Ryzen 8XXXG - No GPU He would be on current gen and looks like the integrated graphics are more than enough for what he does Even if the budget is not a problem, I wonder if it's money well spent or not I've seen videos giving a bad review to Ryzen 8000 APUs AM5 - Ryzen 7600 - RTX 4060 Even if Ryzen 9000 and RTX 5000 are around the corner, these components are new enough He probably will not need to upgrade the PC for quite some time What are your thoughts on these builds? Do you have any other to suggest? (explain your suggestion, please) For Intel, is there anything newer than AM4 but not as expensive as AM5 that we should take a look at?

This is a bit of a two part question: 1. In which video did JayzTwoCents claim that (paraphrasing roughly in my own words) Nvidia GPU clock speeds scale really well with lower temperatures in general (i.e. the temperature could be -120C or something ridiculous and GPU boost will *still* keep boosting higher and higher to "match" that temperature)? 2. Is the aforementioned claim true in anyway, if yes or no then how so? As a computer microarch enthusiast who loves excellent performing hardware, I'm always looking for examples of good scaling; but I just wanna make sure that I am getting my facts straight

Current SPECS: Ryzen 5 3600, 6600XT, 32GB 3200MHz, Aorus Elite B450M, XPG Pylon 650 Budget (including currency): 100-150 USD Country: Pakistan Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: GTA V, RUST, RDR2, AC Valhalla & I do 4K video editing too (mostly large projects). Plus I'm learning UE5 on this machine.

Hello, i've been struggling with issues for a month already. I built this PC last September and i can't say it has been a smooth ride. First, i had random crashes when playing intensive games. Fortunately, this was my CPU overheating and it was easily fixable by changing to a new cooler (i was using the stock one) Everything went great till last month when i started getting random crashes and restarts while gaming. At that time, the PC would crash even when playing non intensive games. Having youtube on the background was enough to cause a BSOD. I thought this was fixed by reinstalling drivers in safe mode using ddu, but yesterday i had a little bit of free time so i decided to play a couple of hours of Teamfight Tactics (a really non intensive game) and it crashed to desktop (Event ID 1002, Application Hang in event Viewer) Today, i tried playing Crysis Remastered and it made my PC restart (without a BSOD) after just 15 minutes. My PC specs are as follow: Ryzen 5 7600 Nvidia RTX 4080 (Gigabyte Gaming OC) ASROCK B650 PG Lightning Motherboard CORSAIR RM1000X PSU G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo CL 30 @ 6000 mhz (2x16GB) RAM. When i tried Crysis today i was expecting it to crash, so i was keeping an eye on temps at all times. They were as follow: CPU temps Average: 80° Celsius Max: 88° Celsius GPU temps: Average: 60° Celsius Max: 65° Celsius. These are the 3 dump files i currently have: https://www.mediafire.com/file/onq79akcicyexky/Minidumps.zip/file

Specs: Mobo: MSI MAG X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI ATX MOTHERBOARD (BIOS ver. 1.F0, 12-Oct-23) RAM: G.SKILL Sniper X Series 16GB (2x8GB) 3600MHz DDR4 Memory [upgraded to] Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB (2 x 32GB) DDR4 DRAM 3600MHz C18 Memory Kit Storage: Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB M.2 PCIe NVMe Internal SSD (Boot Drive) + Seagate BarraCuda ST1000DM010 1TB HDD (Data Drive) Cooling: Noctua NH-U12S Chromax Pure Black CPU Cooler Case: Cooler Master Masterbox K501L RGB (ATX) Mid Tower Black Cabinet With Tempered Side Panel PSU: Antec Earthwatts Gold Pro Series EA750G Pro 750W Monitors: 2x BenQ 27 inch QHD Designer Monitor PD2700Q GPU: GALAX GeForce RTX 3070 SG (1-Click OC) 8GB GDDR6 Graphic Card CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X Desktop Processor (8 Cores/16 Threads/3.8GHz) Windows 10 Home (64-bit) I was playing Valorant with my friends when I saw a notification for a new GameReady Driver (551.86). I installed it and continued gaming. I also stream on YouTube so I'll link one of my streams for a reference of the GPUs performance. I then proceeded to shut down my PC and upgrade my RAM (mentioned above). After clearing CMOS and booting up again, I logged in to Windows. And that's when Windows became extremely slow. I'm talking sluggish mouse movement, Start menu taking 5-10 seconds to load, any UAC window for launching Admin stuff taking 5-10 secs to load. My whole computer was extremely slow. I restarted into Safe Mode, DDU'ed the driver and booted back into Normal Windows. Everything ran smoothly again. Then Windows automatically installed an older Nvidia driver. Still ran smoothly. However when I launched Valorant, it ran at 25-30 fps. That was no good. I installed the latest Nvidia Driver again. Same problem. Extremely slow Windows performance. 10-15 fps on Valorant and Heaven Benchmark. I stumbled upon this troubleshooting video that JayzTwoCents had put out a while ago wherein he talks about disabling Windows automatically installing drivers so that it's a truly clean install. So I redid the entire DDU process again - this time checking the option to prevent Windows from doing that - installed the latest driver and... same problem. So then I thought maybe it's just a bug in the latest driver and Nvidia would release a hotfix for this driver eventually. In the meantime, I would roll back to an earlier driver. (All driver installations henceforth are done after DDU in Safe Mode.) I went through 4 or 5 different versions. Starting from one just before the latest driver (551.76), dating back to the version that I first had when I played Cyberpunk 2077 in December 2020 (546.33). All of them caused the same issue - smooth performance before the driver, sluggish performance after. I tried using 1 stick of RAM and clearing CMOS. Same issue. I tried my old stick of RAM. Same issue. I replaced the CMOS battery. I reseated the GPU and RAM. Same issue. Tried the Studio Driver. No differenece. Same issue. I eventually took my PC to my local vendor from who I had originally bought the parts (Prime ABGB, Mumbai). They swapped my drives for one of their SSD boot drives and it ran smoothly. Installed the latest Nvidia GR driver and was able to recreate the same problem. Slow performance. Then they swapped the 3070 for a 2080 Super from their test bench. And it worked smoothly. With latest Nvidia Driver, it hit 250+ fps on Heaven. Unfortunately, they do not undertake GPU repairs and it's out of warranty so I can't get a replacement either. I am aware that I'll have to shell out some serious cash and pick up a new one. But given that I have nothing to lose, I'd like to try and repair this one. Also, given the fact that it runs smoothly without a driver, I'm wondering if there is a plausible solution? Again, I'm at my wit's end. So any help would be greatly appreciated. Note: I am typing this thread out on that same machine and it's currently running super stuttery. Attaching a video of current Valorant gameplay shot on my OnePlus for reference: https://youtu.be/EJBztSxhK50?si=g8b1L1HQB77oh0Xo

Recently my Asus GL503GE started to lag(cannot go above 10-15 fps) in all games(and some normal apps). Here are the specs: CPU: I7-8750H GPU: GTX 1050ti RAM: 16 GB Storage: Windows 10 on a 120GB Adata SSD, and a 1TB HDD. I have tried reinstalling my display drivers, set my games to use the Nvidia GPU in the Nvidia control panel and the Windows Graphics preferences settings, use the 'best performance' power plan, but nothing has worked. I also have the latest BIOS version for my laptop and the latest Windows updates. When I play a game, the Nvidia GPU stays at 0% most of the time, but does random spikes of activity to 100% and the Intel GPU stays between 10% and 50%, with some random spikes to 100% as well. Here is a screenshot just after I shut down Elden Ring: What can I try to fix this?

Hello Forums, I have my RTX 3070ti for a while, and I was gaming fine on it and today I experienced a weird issue only when I am gaming. As suddenly the screen disconnect and blank screen shows and I couldn't go to task manager or display anything. The only thing I can do is do a hard reset on my PC. My drivers are up to date (536.67) After quick troubleshooting found out this error in event viewer: Faulting application name: dwm.exe, version: 10.0.22621.1635, time stamp: 0x6201aae6 Faulting module name: dwmcore.dll, version: 10.0.22621.1928, time stamp: 0x26557d25 Exception code: 0x8898008d Fault offset: 0x0000000000119223 Faulting process id: 0x0x43E0 Faulting application start time: 0x0x1D9C0A8FF8F0DDB Faulting application path: C:\Windows\system32\dwm.exe Faulting module path: C:\Windows\system32\dwmcore.dll Report Id: dc6b0582-dbe9-472a-9748-e20d8cbd0812 Faulting package full name: Faulting package-relative application ID: + System - Provider [ Name] Application Error [ Guid] {a0e9b465-b939-57d7-b27d-95d8e925ff57} EventID 1000 Version 0 Level 2 Task 100 Opcode 0 Keywords 0x8000000000000000 - TimeCreated [ SystemTime] 2023-07-27T16:40:09.5667621Z EventRecordID 14334 Correlation - Execution [ ProcessID] 11268 [ ThreadID] 13560 Channel Application Computer Lynx-PC - Security [ UserID] S-1-5-90-0-1 - EventData AppName dwm.exe AppVersion 10.0.22621.1635 AppTimeStamp 6201aae6 ModuleName dwmcore.dll ModuleVersion 10.0.22621.1928 ModuleTimeStamp 26557d25 ExceptionCode 8898008d FaultingOffset 0000000000119223 ProcessId 0x43e0 ProcessCreationTime 0x1d9c0a8ff8f0ddb AppPath C:\Windows\system32\dwm.exe ModulePath C:\Windows\system32\dwmcore.dll IntegratorReportId dc6b0582-dbe9-472a-9748-e20d8cbd0812 PackageFullName PackageRelativeAppId Followed by: The Desktop Window Manager process has exited. (Process exit code: 0x8898008d, Restart count: 4, Primary display device ID: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 Ti) + System - Provider [ Name] Dwminit - EventID 0 [ Qualifiers] 32770 Version 0 Level 3 Task 0 Opcode 0 Keywords 0x80000000000000 - TimeCreated [ SystemTime] 2023-07-27T16:40:12.5943874Z EventRecordID 14335 Correlation - Execution [ ProcessID] 1860 [ ThreadID] 0 Channel Application Computer Lynx-PC Security - EventData 0x8898008d 4 NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 Ti Now at first I thought it is something was due to diablo4 hotfix update but then played another game for 20-30 min and the issue came again, the different was I could see in the 2nd game fps drop to like below 5fps and then blank screen popped. I could hear the ingame music but no display. Now I am not sure what is causing that as the only suspicion to me was windows update KB5028254 which have updates about some display settings. Not sure if I need to do ddu or remove the update and go again? Have anyone encountered that issue?

PC specs: CPU: Intel I5-10400 GPU: GTX 1660 Super PSU: Corsair CV750 (750w) RAM: 16GB Motherboard: Asrock B460M I'm looking to upgrade to a better GPU as my current GPU is deteriorating (Game stutters and such). I play on 1440p (3440x1440 monitor resolution). Could anyone recommend some bang-for-buck GPUs to buy?

hello considering the 7900x3d is 50 euros more in my country is it goin to give a boost to gaming paired with an rtx 4070 super at 1440P resolution? the build is goin to do some productivity tasks to but gaming is a big part of the build(7800x3d is a no option).thnx in advance

A new driver came out 8/14/2017 and as soon as I saw the notification, I downloaded it. The update was going all good but when it finished, both of my monitors have very washed out colors. Could this happen because I downloaded the update right as it came out? I've looked on other forums and tried adjusting the control panel settings which seemed to have worked out a little, but still leave me with very washed out colors compared to what they used to be. I have a PNY 970 4GB. Both monitors are 1920x1080 but my primary(left) monitor is 144Hz 1ms using the DVI-D cable that came with it and my secondary(right) monitor is 60Hz 5ms using a VGA to mini HDMI cable. I've attached 8 screenshots of my control panel settings. NOTE: If you're going to refer to the screen shots below make sure you're talking about the correct monitor because there is two of them and the name's are similar

So i got my nVidia GeForce RTX 3060 TI and it does this wierd usage thing where it goes from 0% to 20% and repeat the fans spins faster and slower with each one and i gotta ask if this is normal and if not what i should / Check / Do / or anything else the thing is i dont run anything rn like game or app ... maybe few apps on backround but nothing serious,

Hardware vendors can't catch a break. The US government is turning up the heat on export controls for advanced AI tech. Quotes Dunno what to say more about this farce, but that the looming black market for high-end GPUs amid tightening trade restrictions will push up the prices even more for all of us. Source: https://videocardz.com/newz/u-s-revises-chip-export-rules-to-china-geforce-rtx-4090d-likely-to-be-affected

Linux users have been unable to under-volt NVidia GPUs since the Kepler days when NVidia removed that facility from the System Management Interface (SMI). In essence, under-volting allows you to run a higher clock frequency at a lower GPU core voltage and thus at a lower heat load making GPUs more efficient. The same effect can be had by lowering the power limit and adding a positive Clock Offset. The issue with this approach is when a Work Unit (WU) checkpoints, or something else occurs which reduces the GPU load for a longish interval, when returning to activity the offset tends to apply to an already fairly high clock frequency typically causing the WU to fail. However, there is an often over-looked switch for the NVidia SMI that can be used to prevent this from happening. -lgc --lock-gpu-clocks= Specifies <minGpuClock,maxGpuClock> clocks as a pair (e.g. 1500,1500) that defines the range of desired locked GPU clock speed in MHz. Setting this will supercede application clocks and take effect regardless if an app is running. Input can also be a singular desired clock value (e.g. <GpuClockValue>). So one could do something like: nvidia-smi -pm 1 nvidia-smi -i 0 -pl 160 nvidia-smi -i 0 -lgc 1830,1980 DISPLAY=:0 XAUTHORITY=/run/user/121/gdm/Xauthority nvidia-settings \ -a [gpu:0]/GPUFanControlState=1 \ -a [fan:0]/GPUTargetFanSpeed=75 \ -a [fan:1]/GPUTargetFanSpeed=75 \ -a [gpu:0]/GPUPowerMizerMode=1 \ -a [gpu:0]/GPUGraphicsClockOffsetAllPerformanceLevels=75 to: Set Persistence Mode for all GPUs (so power limits "stick" across WUs) Set the Power Limit for GPU0 to 160W Set the Minimum GPU Core Clock to 1830MHz and the Maximum to 1980MHz. Enable manual fan control Set both fans for a Turing or later GPU to 75% (Pascal and earlier only have 1 fan control register which controls both fans) Set GPU0 to "Prefer Maximum Performance" Add a +75MHz (5 x 15MHz Turing "bins") GPU Clock offset

So basically I had an rx 570 but it went bust and soon I am gonna buy a laptop for college work so i bought a gtx 730 for time being but thisss stupid drivers just won't update or installllllll. It say it's not compatible with you os... Bullshit I have already tried most methods like doing shit on registory.. Reinstalling the drivers with ddu... I even went as far as reinstalling win 11 but it still say hardware not compatible with your os version Found out it's a pretty common so if anyone has a solution pls let me know thanks

There is a previous post on this forum where I was trying to find the cause of the problem where my graphics was showing no signal when I launched some games. I have since taken the card out and found that on one of the pins there was half of the pin missing. Apparently, the pin was used for power so I think when I tried to launch a game the card couldn't get enough power and then stopped providing a video out but if you have any other theories then let me know. The card is an RTX 3070 MSI Gaming Trio X Does anyone know how one would go about fixing this card, whether it is fixable and who I should send the card to?

We didn’t recommend using the Chinese driver in our mining GPU video, but now, we’ll show you how to make Nvidia’s drivers work for yourself – And how to go deeper. Buy a P106 (mining "GTX 1060") on Taobao: https://lmg.gg/8KV9W Buy a real GTX 1060: On Amazon: http://geni.us/rveAUH On Newegg: https://lmg.gg/8KV6B Download link for GeForce driver 416.34: https://lmg.gg/8KV93 Download link for HxD: https://lmg.gg/8KV9m Download link for DifferentSLIAuto: https://lmg.gg/8KV9P Download link for 7-Zip: https://lmg.gg/8KV9p TechPowerUp Forum Thread: https://lmg.gg/8KV91 How to mod the P106 driver Make sure Secure Boot is disabled and Windows is in testsigning mode Check your motherboard manual for information on how to disable Secure Boot Testsigning can be enabled by opening up a Command Prompt or PowerShell as administrator, then typing: bcdedit /set {current} testsigning on bcdedit /set {current} nointegritychecks on This can be done for a single boot by going to Start -> Power -> Restart and holding shift while clicking Restart, then choosing Troubleshoot, then Advanced Options, then Startup Settings - Once you get to the menu, choose to disable driver signature enforcement. After restarting, you’ll know it worked if some text is displayed in the lower right corner of your desktop Download and extract the GeForce driver using 7-Zip In the extracted folder, go to the Display.Driver folder and open nv_dispi.infusing Notepad++ Search for lines containing 1B87 (P104-100), 1BC7, (P104-101) 1C07(P106-100), and 1C09 (P106-090) Change each line's Section number to match the 1C06 (GTX 1060) line - On 416.34, that means from Section110 to Section108 On the third set of lines, the Section numbers will be different; Again change it to match the 1C06 (GTX 1060) line - On 416.34, that's Section109 to Section107 Save the file Install the driver as normal – Windows will complain that it’s unsigned; Click allow. Right-click the desktop, go to Display Settings, then Graphics Settings From here, you can force any game to use the P106 to render while your integrated GPU is used for display output. How to perform the SLI mod Make sure Secure Boot is disabled and Windows is in testsigning mode Check your motherboard manual for information on how to disable Secure Boot Testsigning can be enabled by opening up a Command Prompt or PowerShell as administrator, then typing: bcdedit /set {current} testsigning on bcdedit /set {current} nointegritychecks on This can be done for a single boot by going to Start -> Power -> Restart and holding shift while clicking Restart After restarting, you’ll know it worked if some text is displayed in the lower right corner of your desktop Install both graphics cards you wish to attempt SLI with The first three characters of the PCI device ID MUST match to enable SLI To find out what the device ID is, right-click the start button and click Device Manager In the Display adaptors list double-click the card you want to check. Under the Details tab, click the drop-down and then click Hardware IDs. It will look like this: PCI\VEN_10DE&DEV_1F07&SUBSYS_86701043&REV_A1 VEN_10DE means Nvidia, while DEV_1F07 is the device ID – In this example, an RTX 2070. So in order to run SLI, the other card’s device ID will have to also start with DEV_1F0 Download and install the GeForce driver as usual Download and extract the DifferentSLIAuto package Go to C:\Windows\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository and sort by date Go into the newest folder beginning with nv_dispi.inf Copy the nvlddmkm.sys file to the DifferentSLIAuto folder Open the install.cmd file in the DifferentSLIAuto folder in Notepad++ Replace the three mentions of nv_dispi.inf in install.cmd with the folder name we got the nvlddmkm.sys file Open the nvlddmkm.sys we copied in a hex editor (HxD) In HxD, go to Search, then Find, then click the Hex Values tab Search for 79050fba6b240e Position the cursor at the start of these values Replace with C7432400000000 (no need to delete first, just type over it) Save the file Reboot into Safe Mode with Networking Click Start, then Power, then hold shift while clicking Reboot In the menu that comes up, click Troubleshoot, then Advanced Options, then Startup Settings (on some PCs, this may be behind a “show more options” arrow) - Once the PC reboots, press 5 on the screen that appears. Run install.cmd in the DifferentSLIAuto folder as administrator Reboot into normal mode Enable SLI (hopefully)