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Does anyone have encountered this? I'm not sure if I made a mistake with the connection or just the driver or something else. Thanks

Hi all, Looking to do a fan swap on my tl-sg3428xmp as one of the fans is making a weird noise Thought i might as well swap both fans just incase Ive ordered 2x Noctua NF-A4x20 to replace the 2x Runda RS4020B12H Just a bit concerned before i do the swap as they have different pin outs (Image attached) Just checking if it is still safe to go ahead or order replacement runda fans instead

I've been doing some of my own independent fan testing at home since I cannot find sources with the graphs that I want to see. I know that PQ curves are more informative to engineers and HVAC specialists but to the end user it's less tangible to the actual performance. This round up of Noctua fans are only 5 of the twenty 120mm fans I have results for, if there's more interest I'll make the full database available when it is finished being updated. I am fully aware that there's media outlets like Gamers Nexus and LTT which have their own test equipment but I am of the mind that more independent results are healthy for the PC community. Tests were performed through a 120 x120mm square duct with a correction grid to eliminate rotational forces induced by the axial fan. The fan, water rad, and NH-U12S were sealed against the opening of the duct during each test. Airspeed was taken via anemometer placed at 6 o'clock covering the center to the edge of the duct to average the sample. Soundlevels were measured from 16" away to represent an average desktop case beside a user, the sound floor of my room is ~35 dB. Cubic meters per hour were calculated by multiplying the Airspeed by the duct area of 0.0144 square meters. My results line up with what Noctua quotes on their performance statistics so I have some confidence that these numbers are accurate. The sound level results could use more resolution to improve the graphs but are useful enough for comparison at this time. ***There is a slight error in my data graph labeling, "Cubic m/s per RPM" should read as "m/s per RPM" as it is using the airspeed numbers Unrestricted Noctua NH-U12S 120mm Water Rad

Hello everyone! I want some other opinions on my current cooling situation. I have an Intel i7-12700K running at 5.1 GHz. I built this system in February of 2022 (16 months ago) and am cooling it with a MSI MAG Series CORELIQUID P240 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler. I used Fractal Design Venturi fans fans all the way around and the Fractal Design Meshify 3. I also used Noctua's NT-H1 thermal paste. I know the cooler's pump is the loudest part of my system, and it has made a annoying buzz since day one. I was recently looking to maybe replace the AIO with an NH-D15 from Noctua (which is about $109 USD) and I was wondering if it is a good use of my money. Will the Noctua fans be quieter than the AIO pump? Will the cooling performance be on par? I've got the room for it in my case and the funds to throw at it right now. I am going to upgrade the storage anyway and thought I may as well throw in a new cooler too if it would be quieter without sacrificing cooling. I also know it is over a year old, which I have heard AIOs don't last more than 2 years and I wouldn't want to risk a leak. Any advice is welcome! Thank you in advance!

I present to you, HP EliteDesk 800 G4 DM (Desktop Mini) ... Noctua Edition Full build gallery here: https://photos.paradime.net/#1673813225

Hello everyone, My friend has a Hp omen GT13-0005no and he wants to upgrade the cooler for better temperatures. I was wondering if the Noctua NH-D15 will be a good choice and if it will fit width wise and if it will interfere with the RAM slots? Another option I was looking at was the NH-U12A. Thank you

I’m upgrading the fans on my h710 and it currently has the 3 stock 120s on the front intake. I’m going to replace them with some quieter noctua fans but can’t decide the best config for my case. What do you guys run with??

Hello everybody! I just made this account because non of my friends is sadly that much interested or has weird ideas like I do. So first of the system I have now is completely fine and I've got nothing to complain about but I like to change things from time to time. I'm currently thinking about moving to a much more efficient tower. The tower should have a sidepanel where I can put 2-4 fans for air intake. I saw that corsair had the Graphite Series 600T but I can't find any vendor (in Germany) for that. Other than that since I've got only one 2"5 SSD so the whole HDD/SDD rack is a waste of space. I could saw it out but I don't think I'm a fan of this idea. I'm also thinking about throwing my rbg parts out. As I grew older the flashing lights are less appealing to me so I would look for more effective fans but of course only if it really makes a difference and I can controll them over software (like iCue for Corsair). I'm thinking of some Noctua fans actually so if you provide me the best between noise and cooling I'd be thankful So I'm looking mainly for a new tower, secondary for new casefans. I tried to highlight specific parts for my main problems/ideas and also provide you some of my beautiful mspaint creations. I thank everybody in advance for even giving it a thought and I appreciate any recommandation you have. Also please be respectful and don't give me hate for some of my equip. I tend to do this all of my own and my friends only show minimum interest to the whole PC building stuff so I got none to debate with. So my current setup is this: Case: Corsair 750D Airflow PSU: 1000W be quiet! Dark Power Pro Modular 80+ Platinum Motherboard: MSI-Pro Z690-A DDR4 (ATX) CPU: i9-12900K GPU: Palit RTX3090 Gamerock OC (undervolted) [ 304 x 136 x 60 mm ] RAM: 2x 16GB Vengeance Corsair RGB Pro Soundcard: Sound Blaster Z CPU-Cooling: H115i Elite Capellix (front of case 2x Corsair ML140) Case-Cooling top: 3x Corsair LL140 Case-Cooling rear: 1x Corsair LL140 (1 LED is defective) 3x M.2 SSDs 1x 2"5 SSDs The "eggshell" colored once are the idea I have. The black one is my current setup.

Hello All! I want some second opinions on this. I have a Ryzen 9 5900x and a Noctua NH-D15. I was running a stability Cinebench run on it and noticed that the temperatures across each core have a 15+ degree C difference between each core. Running stock options in BIOS so not overclocked. Could this be due to mounting pressure or poor thermal paste application?

Went back and forth trying to tell my fortune of no thermal issues but it kept comming back, slowly but surely 100°C.. so its dialed back to a 4.4hz @ -120 voltage for both p cores and e cores.. reseated after some installation issues @ 92°C in VA at full CPU usage or "coverage"... it runs just shy or at 34000 cpu mark..

I am looking for a cooler for a Ryzen 7 7700x (which I may try to overclock) and I am trying to figure out the best option. Which of these are better, or is there something else at a similar price point that might be better suited for this? Case is a Gigabyte C301 Glass. Thanks!

Back when i had my 1660 super my CPU (i5-11400) never went above 76C while playing games. Yes there was stutters every now and then but not to the point of the games being unplayable. When i got a new case (Gigabyte c200) and an rtx 3070 i noticed the temps now top at 90C ? at full load on all cores? What is going on? reapplied my paste (Noctua NT-H1) and it didn't change anything if only 5 or 7 Degrees of a difference and it maxes out at 88 or 91 now (was 94 before). I do still have the stock cooler on my intel CPU and i will buy a good air cooler soon that's for sure. Only games i also noticed this was were cyberpunk and the last of us. any other game literally tops on 70-71. I tried asking a shop nearby and he said "The new generations all the way from the 11th to the 13th run very hot on the stock coolers. But they are strong they can take it" Yes but is 90-91 degrees safe ?! That's my question. i never noticed any throttling or issues while playing these games on max settings. and when i turn on my room AC the temp drops by like 12 degrees or something close to it. What do i do ? Do i turn turbo off from the bios ?

So after my fake MX-4 incident i changed my thermal paste to this. Is this fake?? Does this paste even have fakes like the MX-4? And how good does it perform??

I have finally finished my house wide setup. 2.5g LAN with ports in every room, replaced my A/C in my room so i actually have decent cool air for my pc. Last piece of the puzzle was installing the comms cabinet i had sitting around for months to have all my networking and server consolidated and tidy, also in my room. I am using Unraid to manage my server. PC specs and comms cabinet specs: Lian-Li Mesh 2 5800X3D Asus TUF 3080 v2 - GPU Bios flashed with the OC v2 bios of the same card, only 1 bin higher. Absolutely no issues at all. x570-E gaming wifi II G.Skill x2 16gb ram 6x Noctua NF-F12 PPC PWM 120mm 3000rpm server fans 2x Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM 120mm fans 2x Noctua 40mm NF-A4x20 5000rpm fans TP-Link SG1008MP 8-Port Gigabit Desktop/Rackmount Switch with 8-Port PoE+ Ubiquiti UniFi 6 Lite WiFi 6 Access Point 5 Port TP-Link 2.5gb switch 8 Port dumb Gigabit switch Rack mounted Power board at back of comms cabinet to accommodate all devices Power board is attached to a UPS MODEL: VP700ELCD Cat 6 all round babeeeeeey. Monitors are Odyssey G50A (currently running at 144hz) and a HP Elite E243 (60hz) that may or may not have been kindly donated/disposed of to me by my workplace. No LTT water bottle here unfortunately :P.

Hi all, My video card failed recently, so I bought an Asus NVidia GTX 1050 Ti. As you can tell, I am not a high end gamer. The stock cooler was noisy, so I decided to replace it with the cooling solution of the failed card. I have seen this on this channel so had some confidence I could make this work. This took some creativity. I had to file the stand-off screws a bit to reduce the clearence between the GPU chip and the heatsink. I had some Noctua NT-H1 thermalpaste left over. So I applied this directly to the NVidia chip (die). Everything worked like a charm and I enjoyed the silence. Cooling performance was even better than with the original stock asus cooler. The old one had heatpipes, the stock one not, so that makes sense. This morning, the PC hanged during the BIOS. POST beep is normal, but then everything just stops. The screen is on, I can see the bios messages. Yep, replaced the graphicscard with an old one and everything worked fine again. So I reopened the graphics card and did two things: I used too much thermal paste. Some spilled over and was covering the capacitors next to the chip. It is non conductive, so this should not matter, but I cleaned it up anyway. I filed off a small piece of the standoffs, the particular part had a smaller diameter. This means that the new standoffs are a bit wider in diameter and were touching some of the traces on the PCB. There is a soldermask there, but since the edges could be a bit sharp and punch through, I added a small piece of delicately cut high temperature resistant electrical tape between the standoffs and the PCB. Everything booted just fine. Stress tests gave good results. I gave myself a virtual medal in on the spot Swiss army knive DIY repair. My guess was that the stand-offs were the culprit. PC worked fine all day. So half an hour ago I powered the machine up again and it hanged again. So I did the routine, and found that there was, again, some thermal paste over the capacitors. Cleaned it up. I did not touch the electrical tape on the standoffs. And everything booted again. So to conclude this long story, it looks like the noctua thermal paste is not entirely non-conductive. Well, nothing is really. My guess is that there is some high impedance point on the interposer that is influenced by the high but not high enough resistivity of the thermal paste. I am not sure though. As an electronics engineer, I have some difficulty believing this since it would mean that this part of the PCB is designed a bit clumsy (too resistive pull-ups, ...). Not the kind of clumsiness you'd expect from pros that routinely make PCBs for high end electronics. Does anyone have a similar experience? Does anyone have an idea about the electrical conductivity of noctua NT-H1? I would love to hear your thoughts. Sincerely, Jef

Hey! I just finished my latest build with a corsair 7000D case, its a huge case! I usually build small computers and I would just put any Noctua fans that fits. I can understand that this is not the right mindset but I find it confusing when I look into it. So, what I want to do is 4 120mm fans in the front, 3 140mm fans on top and 1 140mm in the back for exhaust, I also have 2 140mm on my CPU cooler pushing air thoughts the cooler to the back of the case. ( Noctua NH-D15). First question would be, is this a good configuration? My second question is what type of fans should I get?! Noctua got so many different fans, I want them relatively quiet and to last for a long time. ( what I understood is that magnetic fails the least?) It hurt my head when I try to find the best one for me... thank you!

PCPartPicker Completed Build Link Budget - $1300 Country - USA Build Uses - Gaming, Streaming, Video Editing, and Content Creation BUILD SPECS - Ryzen 9 3900X, NH-U14S, G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32GB (2 x 16GB) 3200MHz RAM, 1TB 970 EVO, 2TB (2 x 1TB) 860 EVO, MSI RTX 2060 SUPER GAMING X, Corsair iCUE 465X RGB ATX Mid-Tower case, Corsair RMx (2018) 750W 80+ Gold PSU, Corsair LL120 RGB fans (3-Pack), Corsair ML140 RGB fans (2-Pack). CPU Idle Temp - 40°C, CPU Load Temp - 62°C, GPU Idle Temp - 37°C, GPU Load Temp - 71°C BUILD NOTES - The iCUE 465X RGB case was tricky to build in, for a few reasons. The bigger CPU cooler and the top case fans being really close to each other, made mounting the cpu cooler fans a little interesting. Ultimately had to make sure the PWM splitter was installed and set up first. The ML140 RGB fans for the CPU cooler were next to have their fan clips set up and cables routed above the motherboard. Finally the top case fans had their cables routed above the motherboard. Case fans were then installed first, and then the cpu cooler fans. BUILD DESCRIPTION - This is a personal build upgrade, and I use my computer for gaming, streaming, video editing, and content creation. I originally had the idea for this upgrade, after upgrading a relatives build last year. I also noticed that with the 2700X & 2.5” SATA SSDs in my previous personal build, I wasn’t getting the desired performance that I was looking for (both in gaming and video editing/rendering). I did some research on the new CPU’s, and looked at performance and everything. With pricing and availability what it is, I thought that it was a great time to get a 3900X, for a solid upgrade even in 2021. The RAM, storage (2.5" SSDs), GPU, and PSU were brought over from the previous build, with everything else being new from Amazon & MicroCenter. So far with this build, I’ve noticed much smoother and faster boot and shutdown times as well, thanks to the new CPU and the Samsung M.2 NVME SSD. The CPU fans are the ML140 RGB fans, and I have those connected to a sleeved PWM splitter that I picked up from MicroCenter. The RGB part is controlled by the included Lighting Node Pro and RGB HUB. The case fans are all connected to the Commander Pro and another Lighting Node Pro. Mounting and connecting all of the case fans was easy, but the cable management was a pain in the butt. If you mount these devices at the back of your case, cable management won’t be too much of a problem. I have the Commander Pro and Lighting Node Pro, for the case fans, mounted underneath the PSU shroud, so cable management was a little tricky there. Also, the front CPU cooler fan was re-adjusted after the photos were taken, as I noticed it was a bit crooked. In gaming, the CPU stays around the same as the usual load temps that I get with multitasking and video editing. I may repaste the graphics card however, as the usual load temps average around 58°C outside of gaming, and go up to 71°C in gaming. All temps listed are with D.O.C.P. (XMP) enabled, and PBO disabled. BTW I do have the Noctua NA-HC5 in the pictures, but I ended up not using it. Both didn’t see an ultimate need for it, and it would’ve also increased the Noctua cooler’s height to 172mm, which was not applicable to my case.

First Build. Did coustom paint job.

Hello everyone, the title quite explains my problem. Since always I have this level of cpu temps and it's just now that I'm not sure if it's normal. Maybe the problem can be that I replaced an 150mm cpu cooler fan with an 120mm? Here's my specs https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Lenov/saved/#view=WNgjpg Thanks in advance

Hi there, I installed my Corsair H150i RGB Pro XT last night. Selected hardware specs for reference: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS Micro ATX AM4 Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic ATX Full Tower Case Power Supply: Corsair RMx White (2018) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply I swapped out the supplied Corsair ML120 fans with three Noctua NF-P12 1700 PWM fans I already had. These were confirmed working in other builds and my choice was mainly down to aesthetics. The radiator is top mounted as an exhaust with the fans in a push configuration. I also have 6 Arctic P12 PWM PST fans as intakes, all of which are connected to a SATA-powered fan hub. While all the Noctua fans on the radiator are spinning, I can’t seem to control them in the iCUE software. No matter which profile I apply, including custom ones, the fans stay at the following RPM: Fan 2 is too loud at that RPM. I’d like to set them all to roughly 800-900 rpm. I have confirmed the following: The pump is connected to the USB header on the motherboard Each 4 pin Noctua fan is connected to the fan splitter coming off the pump The 3 pin connector coming off the pump is connected to the CPU fan header on the motherboard The product is connected to a spare SATA power cable Can anybody help? My first thought would be to retry with the supplied Corsair ML120 fans. Please let me know if there is anything else I can try! I have never attempted to control fan speeds through the BIOS. Thanks!

Hi everyone, I have a Noctua NH-U12S CPU cooler installed on a Ryzen 3700X CPU and although the included Noctua NF-F12 PWM fan claims a max 22.4 dB(A), I can hear a revving hum that seems to exceed it (30-40 dB(A)). To avoid some hassle, I do not want to replace the CPU cooler so I am tempted to replace the NF-F12 fan with a be quiet! Silent Wings 3 fan for its claimed 16.4 dB(A). Has anyone done this before and how were the results, please? Good/Bad idea? Thanks! IberMagnus

My CPU is overheating even if it is not overclocked. The peak temperature limit for my CPU is 68 degrees. Still it gets upto 72-74 degrees even at just 86% CPU usage. Even my side panel is open . According to toms hardware the max temps at 4.1ghz it should be around 58 degrees with Noctua cooler at full load . My CPU reaches 72 degrees at just 86% usage . Also my fan speed is at full speed 1200rpm . Specifications : - CPU - Threadripper 1900x 8 core CPU cooler - Noctua NH U14s (Single fan) Motherboard - MSI x399 SLI PLUS