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which one should I buy? Keychron C1 or Corsair K68? What's the difference? or should I buy Keychron K4 (don't want to but exception) PS:K2V2 seems stock out everywhere

I am thinking about buying an Royal Kludge rk61 which has ABS keycaps and i want to swap them out for PBT ones. But i heard that it has North Facing LEDs wich apparenty means that some Keycaps wont fit. What do i have to look out for or what do i gave to search for to get compatible Keycaps? (If you know a good set just comment the link) Thanks in advance!

Hi, I have a MSI Vigir GK80 which is around 1.5yrs old. Today I was playing BF1 and after quitting the game I noticed that the Number and Alphabet keys stopped working. However after I rebooted the problem went away. Is this an indication that the keyboard is dying? Few days back the backlight also stopped working and reconnecting it solved it.

Hello there everyone! I was thinking I should make a little Intro to keyboards for beginners or can be a revision for seasoned keyboard enthusiast. This is an Introduction to Mechanical Keyboards and customs or just keeb stuff in general. I highly recommend checking out the Mechanical Keyboards subreddit and Keyboard Youtubers such as Taeha Types, Andy V Nguyen, Glarses, Hamaji Neo, Josef Chung, Jaeyou Park, Hipyo Tech and So many more. These channels have a lot of educational value (of keyboards) and also sprinkle a bit of comedy, some of them have sound tests of switches which I highly recommend you watching wen deciding a switch.. But now lets get into it. Lets start off with the Case. The case is the thing that holds all the shit in the keyboard together basically. There isn't really much to say about that case until we get into the PCB. Cases are usually made out of Aluminum, Plastic or Acrylic. The PCB or Printed Circuit Board is like the motherboard of the Keyboard. It registers your keystrokes and sends it to the computer, in some cases it holds your switches in (I'll talk about that later). Usually to put your switches into the PC you have to solder them with a Soldering Iron. Now today Hotswap PCBs have become more common (Hotswap PCBs are basically in every solder joint that the PCB has it is replaced with something called a Hotswap Socket, this allows you to just slot the switches inside the PCB without soldering. This is a huge time saver. The biggest manufacture of these sockets are Kale and Gateron). Another thing with PCBs is mounting. There are various of mounting styles. Popular ones include: Gasket Mount (where foam or rubber pads is stuck onto the Plate (talk about that later) or onto the board this provides a more softer typing feel and overall has more flex*), Tray Mount (That where the pcb is screwed into the case with stands off on the case, this is usually fine but most custom keyboards people are not a fan of it as it stiffens the typing feel) and So Many more! Again I encourage you to do your research on this if your interested Hotswap Sockets in a PCB DZ60RGB PCB (KBDFANS) (Example of how a common PCB looks like) *Unlike Laptop Keyboards, In the community the amount of flex a keyboard has usually contributes to the typing feel and in some cases sound and a lot of people in the community like that. Now going up! We have the plate. There isn't really much to say about the plate, sometimes is holds your switches sometimes your stabilizers, sometimes both. But what it does is it secures your switches onto the PCB and keep the aligned. It also provides an way to mount your PCB onto the case as I mentioned in the PCB section of this Post. It also changes the feel of the way you type and the sound. Metallic Plates like Aluminum and Brass provide a very stiff feel and provide sometimes a pinging noise as of plates like Polyoxymethylene (aka POM) and Polycarbonate are more flexible and provide a more dense typing sound. The Plate also changes how different keys sound scattered on the board. We're Almost There! With Stabilizers. The provide stability (as in the title) to some of the longer keys such as Shift, Caps Lock, Enter, Spacebar etc. and prevent them from leaning to the other side of you don't press on the key on center. The two types of way stabilizers are mounted are Plate Mounted or PCB Mounted (Screw ins). The way that the community measures the length of these keycaps are with the letter you. 1u for example is like one of the alpha numeric keys on the keyboard like the letters, numbers and F keys. So to measure longer keycaps all you have to do is put your 1u keycaps till they measure out. It is very referenced when buying keycaps are talking about keycaps in general but I highly encourage you to look into this. We're Here! Switches. These are probably the most known elements of a keyboard. Switches are the things in the keyboard that make the sounds. There are mainly three types of switches. Linear Switches have a "linear travel when pressed meaning they require a uniform increase in force to press the switch" (For the types of switches I will be quoting Taeha Types in his video Anatomy Of A Custom Keyboard which I think I couldn't have said better myself) "There is no bump or click to the switch to let you now when the switch is actuated" (actuated is a fancy word for when the pcb register your keystroke). "Tactile Switches follow a long linear travel usually requiring a build up of force to overcome a tactile event generally in the form of a bump, around the point of actuation. Clicky Switches are switches that have a clicker mechanism of some sort that generates an audible click of some sorts". The anatomy of a switch includes the stem which is usually a cross shaped piece usually made of Nylon but can be made out of other materials like POM which I mentioned earlier. The Spring where the Stem sits, this controls the force needed to actuate the switch. The Bottom Housing where the spring lies and keeps it together with the top housing. Now there are a lot of popular ways to categories these types with colours. Blue Switches: These switches are usually Clicky and are tactile. Red Switches: These switches are linear and usually the lightest switch in a companies line up. Yellow Switches: These switches are similar to red but have a more heavier spring and or usually more smoother popularized by the hit budget switch Gateron Yellow switches which have been dubbed in a sense "Butter On a Budget" Brown Switches: These switches are tactile no click and are a mildly controversial switch due to their stems. They are called tactile but the tactile event is so weak that some people would classify them as linears. Black Switches: These switches are usually the heaviest linears in a lineup. There are a bunch more of colours like whites and pink but to keep this post brief I'll just talk about the most popular ones. The Biggest manufactures of switches are Cherry (which is arguably the most popular one but not the best), Gateron, Kalih, JWK, Durock and So Many More! Again I highly encourage you to do more research if you are interested. To add to these a very good modification is Lube and Film. (And no we are not having sex with switches get your mind out the gutter) Lube is to make your switches sound as smooth as possible and film is a little plastic or felt piece you put inside of the switch to decrease stem wobble and make the switches sound more deep. And the last part of your build keycaps. I talked briefly about keycaps in the Stabilizers section but not in detail. Lets start with Profiles. Usually different keycaps have different shapes in turn giving a different sound and typing feel. Popular profiles include: OEM (which are the keycaps that you probably currently have on your keyboard, these are one of if not the most popular keycaps not due to efficiency of typing or sound but because more keyboard manufactures like Corsair, ROG, Razer and so on use them. These are tall keycaps and slanted), Cherry (This is a popular enthusiast keycaps as popular keycaps creators such as GMK and Tao Hao use them. They are basically smaller OEM Keycaps). SA (Another popular enthusiast keycap profile, this provides a more wooden block sound to your switches, they are a very chonky switch very tall and a bit rotund), MT3 (Similar to SA Keycaps but shrunk down a bit and shaped a bit differently). Again There are SO MANY TYPES of keycap profiles and I encourage for the last time on this post to go to further research if your interested. Now materiel of the keycaps do matter, PBT and ABS Plastic are the most popular. GMK and Tao Hao use ABS which is similar to PBT. ABS feels and sounds better but PBT legends last longer. In my opinion PBT is better for intense gamers and ABS is better for day to day typists. Terminology used to the community and/or to purchase parts: GB: Meaning Group Buy, similar to a pre order but the company hasn't made them yet. IC: Interest Check, this is usually attached with a form asking you if you are interest in their product to they can start making it. Thock: Controversial term some love it some hate it but it's the sound wooden block sound that I was talking about earlier. Vendors: Vendors are places where you can get keyboard parts, Vendors are specific to your region*. R(number): These usually means Revision, so R3 would be Revision three this is usually used when buying cases Vendors according to Regions, info taken from Alexotos Vendor Region list: Canada: Ashkeebs – Parts & accessories. – stachekeebs for 5% off Zeal – Switches, parts & kits. Keyspresso – Keyboard parts and accessories. ApexKeyboards – Canadian keyboard supplies. MTBkeys – Canadian keyboard case manufacturer. Deskhero – Keyboards, accessories, and headphones. Vintkeys – Vintage keys & accessories. Minokeys – Keyboard Parts & accessories. Mech Land – Keyboards & accessories. Malvix Studio – Keyboards parts & accessories. Keyz.io – Keyboard kits WestM – Keyboard accessories RNDKBD – Keyboard kits/parts – ALEXTHEGOAT for 5% off Gboards – Parts and groupbuys! tokeebs – Parts & accessories Shockport – Keyboards parts & accessories Alphakeys – Parts & accessories HypeKeyboards – FR4 Plates KumaMech – Parts. keycaps, & accessories Agile Cables – Cables and Desk Pads United States of America: Kinetic Labs – Keyboards accessories Space Cables – Keycaps, cables, and accessories. Omnitype – Accessories, keycaps, & more. Apiary Keyboards – Content creator and build services. Novelkeys – Parts, kits, & accessories. *DROP – General keyboard goods. Elboard Keyboard Supply – Use code alexotos for 5%! Mechanical Keyboards The Key Dot Company Originative Co Asceny Gear Cannon Keys Ungodly.design – Website Teal Technik – Website for accessories Prime Keyboards – Parts and accessories Little Keyboards – Parts and PCBs. Keycult – Premier High-end Keyboards. Ringerkeys – Lube and accessories. Clawsome Boards – Keyboard parts and macro kits! Divinikey – Parts & accessories – ALEXOTOS 5% off Prevail Key Co – Lube, parts & accessories. Bolsa Supply – Keyboards parts. LastPadawan – Keyboards and accessories. Vala Supply – Keycaps and accessories. Keeb.io – Parts, kits and more! 415Keys – Keyboard parts and switches. Typr.tools – Parts and accessories 3dKeebs – Parts & Accessories American Haptics – Keycaps and silicone work mats. Thockeys – General parts & accessories 1upkeyboards – Kits, parts & accessories Dangkeebs – Keyboards, parts & more Flashquark – Keycaps & various parts eType – Acrylic Keyboards Stupid Bullets Tech – Keyboard accessories Keyspensory – Keycaps and more! Bespokekeys – Keyboard parts and accessories. CFTKB – Keyboard kits cbkbd – Keyboard Kits Keebz – Keyboard parts & Accessories United Kingdom: Noxary – Keyboards Mechboard.co.uk – Keyboards & accessories MechSupply / Uk-Keycaps – Keycaps Mechbox – Keyboard accessories Cablecult – Cables & parts Kiwi Keebs – Parts & accessories Keebcats – Parts & accessories Merge Design – Macro Pads Unspoken Deskpads – Desk mats Caps unlocked – Keyboards and accessories Optic Keyboards – Keyboard parts Protozoa Studio – Keyboard accessories Prototypist – Keyboards, accessories and more NOESC – Switches and Keycaps Asia Kibou – Keyboards and Parts. – code “alexotos” for 5% off KBDfans – Parts, kits, & pre-assembled boards. Graystudio – Keyboard kits kprepublic – Parts, keyboards & accessories. Wuque Studio – Keyboards and accessories. Keys.my – Parts and Lube Percent Studio – Custom keyboard Monstargear – Keyboards and accessories. Melgeek – Parts and cases + extras! iLumKB – Parts zFrontier Yushakobo.jp – Keyboards & accessories. Kochi Keyboard – Keyboard parts Thick Thock – Keyboards and parts Zion Studio – Keyboards accessories and parts Mechkey Store – Keyboard accessories & cables Justkeys – Cables, artisans & deskmats Tokyo Keyboard – Keyboard kits & accessories Swagkeys – Keyboards & parts Pantheon Keys – Parts & accessories Momoka – Switches, keycaps, and switch testers Australia RAMA WORKS – Beautiful high end kits & accessories. Switchkeys Australia – Keycaps and parts! Lowkeykeyboards – Website Keyboard Treehouse – Keyboard kits / parts Daily Clack – Kits, parts and accessories Europe Salvun – Keyboards projects, parts, & more. Loob.no – A variety of lubricant’s, accessories and more. Candykeys – Website Keygem – Website Qlavier Homerow Co. – Keyboard Parts Oblotzky.Industries Mykeyboard.eu – Parts and keysets based in the EU FalbaTech – Keyboard kits Mekanisk – Keyboards & accessories Keebwerk – Keyboards & accessories Splitkb – Split keyboards and accessories Keycapsss – Keyboards parts Eloquent Clicks – Keyboards & accessories 42.keebs – Parts & accessories ioKeyboards – Keycaps and parts Central/South America: Fancy Customs – Keycaps, keyboards & parts LatamKeys – Keyboards parts and accessories RHESET – Keyboards part & accessories Africa CtrlShiftEsc – Keyboards and accessories Other: kono – Variety of keyboards. Keyhive – Parts and unique keyboard items. LFKeyboards – Website EUNBU – Vintage Switches Hexkeyboards – Keycaps & accessories AVX Works – Plates *Another great tool to use is keebmap! It’s a great interactive map of some great vendors in the hobby! Also some of the text copied weird With that said that's my Intro to Mechanical Keyboards. Have fun tearing down your Corsair K70s only to realize that it doesn't have a Hotswap PCB. Welcome to the Custom Keyboard rabbit Hole! Have fun

Hello everyone, I would be very grateful if I get some help finding a keyboard that fits my needs. I am currently using Cherry MX Browns on the Corsair K95 RGB Platinum. I dislike its chattering and I am looking for a heavier switch and a sturdier keyboard (low key wobble). I want a fullsize keyboard since I use the numpad often. Thanks

Hi guys, I'm looking for your advice/opinion about my keybord, it is a G513 with blue switches and i've had it for a few months now, the issue started around 2 months after i purchased it around november and since then i've got a warranty replacement G Pro just so you know I really want to fix it and is not an issue about getting a new keyboard from Logi, anyway, at first it randomly dissconected and it would take a while to reconnect on its own and sometimes a couple times of disconnect and reconnect for it to work properly, with time it got worst to me point of needing to reconnect it at least every 2 hours, now it is unusable bc every time I try to connect it my pc won't recognize it or it will work for a few second and then die, i believe it is a usb problem or something like that bc the usb hub works just fine, and when it is recognized the keyboard works no problem. I've uploaded a video to YT showing how the keyboard behaves, when i apply a lot of preassure to the usb it seems to work (i know it's not a good idea to do that, it was only for testing), and when i let go it dies, so, do you think it can be fixed replacing the usb connection or something like that? or is it e-waste now? Link to the video: https://youtu.be/B94bxNIv4bU I hope i explained everything good enough, english is my second lenguage and i don't usually write a lot, sorry for any misspells/mistakes, and thanks for any input!

Hello friends, Need a little help. Can anyone tell me which one is the best budget keyboard between these two keyboards? (Both are same price in here) Fantech MK851 (Mechanical) Fantech MK884 (Optical) Thank you.

Most people dislike membrane keyboards and vastly prefer mechanical keyboards. Including me. But after watching Linus's video on the Coolee Master Mem-chanical keyboard I was wondering would people prefer a really good membrane keyboard or a really crappy Mechanical/Mem Chemical keyboard.

Hello all, Image attahced. all keys work apart from the none highlighted ones (not the numpad, its a TKL board) The keys are as follows 12345678 Tab qwertyu Anyone know why or how to fix? The keyboard is linked below and is hotswappable switches https://www.drevo.net/product/keyboard/tyrfing-v2

Hi, so i have this keyboard from like last 3 years bought it after watching linuuuus best budget mechanical keyyboards. Now as you can see this keyboard is showing is ages or no to suuure what is the issue, its tyypying double keywords, im not doing it on purpose im just tyyyping regularlyyy but its tyyping it double. I ccleaned it properly with blowing air and changed its usb port to different one but still im getting this weird issue. Is there any chance of this getting fixed or shouuld i look for another one? Thanks

I want to make a custom pcb layout and also want to make it hot swappable... just wondering what these hot swap thingy are called...

Hello everyone, I recently had a lot of lab stuff in collage (online of course). So I find my self oftenly (red underline) umm..... frequently writes, well..... typed reports, essay, and other collage stuff. I usually typed these just using my laptop keyboard. It's usually is fine but it's that kind of layout where's the they placed the power button on where's the delete key used to be. And I sometimes accidentally pressed the power button instead of the delete. So... that's annoying, yea no harm done but still annoying. Basically looking to buy a mechanical keyboard for under $70 (less is more preferable, of course), but I wanted it to be wireless and using the 2.4ghz dongle one not bluetooth. I want something that uses the Brown switch from any manufacturer is fine by me (Cherry, Outemu, Kalih, Gateron, etc). I don't have any experience with Browns before but I have tried Reds and they are way too light for me. Anyways, I want a keyboard with 10-Keyless layout, Backlight (but if it don't have one that's fine), Brown switches, Wireless (2.4ghz), and Under $70 Currently I got my eye on the Velocifire TKL02WS which ticks all of these boxes and cost $60 well... here anyway. Please there's something better (or cheaper) let me know Thank You

I just recently bought myself a Velocifire TKL02WS And I got to say using a proper keyboard after a year of using only my laptop keyboard, okay there's the occasional desktop keyboard but still. Feels kinda weird y'know. Like being really used to just flat and short travel keys changing to a keyboard that actually goes down. I'm just like "Why the letters aren't showin' up???" the most difference to me is the arrow keys placement. Where's on a laptop the arrow keys are near the right shift key now they are beside the shift key and I still till now mistaken pressing the arrow keys bellow the shift key I guessed it gonna took a few days for me to be familiar with this keyboard and not always miss-pressed the arrow keys

Interested in getting my first mechanical keyboard, I decided that i would try red switches and have a budget for 80Usd. I think I am going to try 65% or TKL. This keyboard is mainly for gaming. Options i have found so far: Keychron K2 Akko 3068 Kemove 61 Hyperx alloy fps pro Are any of these keyboards worth it? if so which would you suggest and if not what you would suggest?

Hello people! I want to get a new keyboard. My current one, a random Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 I just went into a shop and got as the first option, because my old one died, is getting...annoying. Keys are starting to double type, some of the keys are starting to break so they don't sit proper on the keyboard and other similar issues. However, after checking out the keyboard videos that Plouffe made, I find that the keyboards he reviews often only have limited Nordic ISO options. I am from Denmark, so I kind of need the Nordic ISO to feel at home with my keyboard. The options tend to be 70% size (so you get some kind of laptop keyboard setup with FN keys and whatnot to use Home, End, Page Up/Down) or you get a setup that doesn't have a numpad. I want a 100% mechanical keyboard for my desktop that is Nordic ISO, but also has replaceable switches so I can customize the switches and keycaps as I wish. The keyboard itself will be used mostly for typing, but also gaming. Any ideas on where to look or just keyboards you can recommend?

Hi! I'm looking for a keyboard recommendation for my Dad, and am rather unfamiliar with split keyboards, so I'm hoping you all can provide input. He needs the following: Cherry Mx switches (I think similar-feeling & quality switches could be substituted) Standard 110-key layout (this is essential) Split keyboard (title of post) I don't believe price is a huge concern, but if you all could me collect a list to send to him, that would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I Recently purchased the moonlander from ZSA and it arrives tomorrow which I am stoked about, I just know since I already type incorrectly not using home row I should really attempt to learn it properly. this being said I want to use a layout that would be good for shortcuts on both windows and linux and ideally Mac too since I swap between OS's all the time. eventually I wish to transfer from a usual desktop environment to a tiling window manager for productivity while programming. does anyone have any suggestions or is it wiser to just learn qwerty properly

After narrowing down what I want (white 60% prebuilt under 90usd) and what's available in mi country my two options are Glorious gmmk 60% (Gateron Brown) or Redragon Fizz Pro (Outemu Reds) for half the price. Need help choosing between them.

A Mechanical Experience This is my review on the Ducky Shine 3 Mechanical Keyboard with Cherry MX Red switches. The feel of the click and the clack is indescribable! My fingers float above the keycaps eagerly waiting to press them in a satisfyingly quick motion. The response my fingers receive from the Cherry MX Red switches is immediate and orgasmic! Ahhh this keyboard is amazing!!!!! I love writing on it so much. This is my first mechanical keyboard ever and I have to say I am glad I bought one! I was on the verge of buying the Razer Blackwidow Ultimate Stealth, but watching the video from Linus Tech Tips changed my mind and I began my hunt for the best mechanical keyboard. One of the reasons I chose the Ducky Shine 3 is the fact that no software is needed out of the box. Managing the Blue LEDs is all done on the keyboard itself. I’m also not a fan of this ridiculous RGB craze going on right now in the keyboard market. I love the fact that my keyboard and mouse have LEDs, but it’s not the sole reason I bought them. Their performance and build quality were the main reasons. LEDs were just a bonus to the amazing package. This was also why I didn’t buy the Razer Mamba 2012 immediately after it was released. Yes the DPI was increased a bit and yes it did come with an improved sensor system, but it wasn’t enough for me to spend another $130.00 on another mouse. My 5 year old Razer Mamba was still working perfectly (for the time being at least) and I wasn’t even going to close to the 5600 DPI max on that, so the DPI increase didn’t motivate me too much. Also the mouse was the exact same physically, except for the RGB lighting. It wasn’t until this past November that I finally became fed up with my old Mamba giving me issues. And when I say issues I mean big problems. My mouse’s sensor wasn’t tracking properly at all and would skip VERY often. And this was only after I managed to turn it on and get it to work at all. Sometimes the sensor was so bad that I wouldn’t manage to get it to even start tracking period. I even tried a new battery for it thinking that might be the source of the problem, but nope. I gave in and bought the Razer Mamba 2012. The RGB lighting is nice and all, but I still don’t use the sensor’s max DPI setting of 6400 at all. The most I use is 4600 and that’s on Skyrim. Overall I’m glad the mouse functions perfectly and all, but if my old Mamba hadn’t failed I would probably still be using it to this day. Now as for my Alienware M15X’s keyboard, I love it! It’s been great and hasn’t failed me in the 6 years that I’ve been using it. The Alienware FX lighting is also really nice, but like I said before it isn’t the sole reason I love it. The texture of the keys is really nice! Almost like PCB keycaps. Also the tactile response I get from typing on it is great. It’s definitely one of the better keyboards made for a laptop. After watching many videos on keyboards, I finally decided to buy a mechanical keyboard. I first looked at Razer’s own Blackwidow Ultimate since I loved their Razer Mamba gaming mouse. But after almost buying it on Newegg, I watched another one of Linus’ videos on keyboard reviews. This was actually the Corsair K70 RGB keyboard review. One of the “Recommended videos” on the side of the video was Linus’ review of the Ducky Shine 3. It blew me away! Finally a keyboard that isn’t obsessed about RGB lighting that, at least according to Linus, had a phenomenal build quality. I looked further in to the keyboard itself and after finally making up my mind about Cherry MX switches vs Razer’s own Razer Switches, which many reviews said were worse, I decided I was going to buy the Ducky Shine 3. It finally arrived today in the mail and I couldn’t stop myself from smiling (although this tends to happen to me when I am eagerly awaiting a package delivery). I took great care in un-boxing it and took my time appreciating the box in which it came. I read the box’s description many times and glided my fingers over the textured lettering on the cover of the box. I finally opened the box and slowly took out the keyboard and the rest of the contents. I laid the keyboard to the side while I appreciated the small wire keycap puller Ducky provided. I also looked at the extra “WASD” orange/red keycaps that were also provided before setting them back in the box as I knew that I was going to keep the black keycaps already on the keyboard. I gave the manual a read or two, but I was already fairly familiar with the keyboard seeing as how I had spent many days prior to its arrival watching both in depth reviews and un-boxing videos on the keyboard, as I tend to do with most things I take time purchasing. I gave the warranty card a quick read and then set both of the paper contents back in the box. I grabbed the keyboard with both hands and immediately felt the weight behind the keyboard. I love this as it gives a true physical measure of an item’s “premium” quality. The keycaps are gorgeous and I love the layout. I was also happy to find that the keyboard itself fit in the keyboard drawer of my desk. I used the included wire puller to pull one of the keycaps to double check that my keyboard had Red MX switches, as the Amazon webpage I bought it from was slightly confusing. It claimed in the “title” that the keyboard was indeed Blue LED lit and that it had Red MX switches, but further reading led me to believe that the keyboard might actually have Black MX switches. I assumed as it was the actual description that I had made a mistake and bought Black MX switches, but I gave in to the idea anyways. It wasn’t a huge deal to me. I watched many videos and written reviews on comparisons of the many different switches Cherry offered. Seeing as how the Red switches were made with gaming more in mind, that’s what I wanted to buy. Further inspection though revealed that Brown MX switches are the preferred switches for most gamers as the switches provided a tactile bump that gives the user a physical indication that the actuation point in the keyboard has been achieved, whereas the Red switches made for gaming are linear and provide no tactile bump. The benefit of the Red switch though is that the switch’s actuation point requires less force to reach and as such lets players effortlessly press multiple keys with little to no fatigue. Anyways, after using the keyboard now for a day I can say with complete certainty that I love the keyboard and the Red MX switches. A little getting used to is in order and that will develop over time and usage, but even after just a single day I love the feeling of typing on this keyboard! I actually opened this Microsoft Word page with absolutely no intention on writing a 4 page document that would turn in to a full review of my experience with the Ducky Shine 3 and the research that went into buying it prior to clicking that “buy” button. Ultimately I figured after writing sentence after sentence to try out the typing experience of the Ducky Shine 3, I might as well double check my grammar and spelling errors and finally post it online with the only intention being to give possible buyers of this phenomenal keyboard a more “personal” kind of review and not a strictly detailed review with facts and numbers that might only give a reader so much understanding on the usage of the keyboard. I know that at least for me, reading the facts on the “actuation point” and “tactile bumps” only gave me a theoretical understanding with no prior history on mechanical keyboards to help me better understand what I was getting myself in to. Finally, if this quaint little review helps you out in any way then great! If not and you managed to read all the way until the end, then my bad bro! There are plenty of more in-depth reviews on the Ducky Shine 3 though, including the wonderful review Linus made. Regardless, thanks for reading the words from someone who rarely feels like commenting on practically anything, much less writing pages about it! Haha Take care everyone!

Hi, I recently bought a new mechanical keyboard (the GMMK), and after lubing all of the gateron brown switches there are some that have this really awful noise that persists even after applying extra lube. Here's a video of the noise (you may have to turn it up), but I've honestly tried everything and it feels like the switches on this keyboard are slowly starting to exhibit this behaviour. I've contacted GMMK support but they don't have any ideas beyond lubing the switch. Does anyone have any advice?

I'm looking for a keyboard to replace my old Steelseries Apex 350. As a keyboard to use for both typing and gaming I have really enjoyed it but its now a solid 5 years old and keys are starting to become a bit sticky and its just generally a bit of a nightmare to use as it has constant disconnection issues forcing me to completely reconnect the keyboard which is far from ideal. Recently came across a cheap Corsair K100 (with OPX switches) so i bought it and tried it but didn't really enjoy using it much, found the keys were just generally too tall feeling and I hated how light the actuation force was and it was causing me to type all over the place and not enjoy gaming as much. Was thinking something low profile, since the apex 350 is fairly low profile, maybe along the lines of Logitech G915 but still concerned that it will be too light as with my K100. Idealy the keyboard would also have volume + media controls, and at least a few programmable macro keys (like dedicated quick keys for discord mute and deafen) Not massively bothered about it being a mechanical keyboard as I really liked my membrane keyboard despite it's other issues. Any suggestions are much appreciated.

I'm a programmer & occasional gamer. I'd like to have a keyboard with the following features: - full size - somewhat tactile switches, not loud (I'm afraid linear switches would be too much a surprise for my fingers, as they are familiar only with pretty much tactile rubber dome switches) - hot-swappable - I really like the idea of being able to replace the keys when they wear out or when I want to try something new - solid, time-proven build both mechanically, electrically and firmware - RGB or at least some backlight - on-board profile memory to make it work even without any software Nice-to-have: - software for more convenient RGB & macro key tweaking) - volume knob It would be great to keep it below 200 USD. At first, I wanted to go for "normal" mechanical keyboard. Ducky One 3 Daybreak seems nice, although I would love to have more color options. Also, would like to have good software and a nice volume knob, but, well, you can't have everything even for 200-ish USD. But have lately heard their macro-handling firmware and user support is confusing. Alternatively, I was considering also Glorious GMMK full size with Gateron Brown, much cheaper than Ducky and might be OK for my needs. Then I found some people complaining about mechanical switches having chattering problems too soon (even with Cherry Browns), so I started thinking about optical switches - those should last longer, right? As long as LEDs on the PCB does not die (not sure what is their lifetime). Unfortunately, I found only one choice for full-size optical hotswappable RGB: Cooler Master CK351. That one is not very convincing. The build quality is not great and the switches are LK DarGo (proprietary?), although some sellers claim they have CK351 with Outemu Browns. Confusing. I rarely buy new expensive stuff. I expect things that cost above 100 USD to last at least 5 years. I have some soldering skills and can also do repairs, as long as PCB is in good shape and controller chips are alive. I really would like to have a platform that will serve well for many years. What do you think? Is it worth even trying to go optical or they are too new and maybe would not pleasant at all as tactile switches? Should I better stick with Ducky or GMMK and just have some spare brown keys for replacement when the original keys start acting up?

Wanted to know if the keys are loud as much as the mx blue switches and if overall is it a good keyboard for the price I am getting it at which is around 50 dollars Thanks.

I bought a G513 carbon, with roamer G switches, about 2 years ago, and man it has not been a pleasant experience. :c and I don't want to throw away money for something that will fall apart as you use it. I'm looking for mechanical non-linear keyboard for cheap, around 150$, per key rgb would be nice, anything that isn't cherry mx or roamer G.

I really like the feeling of the cherry blue mechanical switches, but I found it to be way too loud. The cherry brown mechanical switches sounded fine but felt mushy, and the cherry red switches were too mushy. I also tried the low-profile tactile switch on the g915 lightspeed, but it felt a bit too soft, and I liked the Razer Opto-mechanical switch. Can anyone help suggest a mechanical keyboard with a switch that I would like? I need a full size keyboard under $150 canadian dollars. I am currently using the dell kb522 keyboard