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After a bit of research I've come to understand almost all the motherboard software asus packages with its products seems to be mostly bloatware esq. as my setup is pretty rgb heavy I'm looking for a replacement software that works with Asus motherboards and the Lian Li Uni fans. I've heard the the Corsair lighting software is pretty decent but I don't have any corsair products in my build other than my psup. Just trying to stay away from performance hindering and problematic software.

So i have the Lian Li Lancool II Mesh RGB and i am using the build in "RGB-Controller" for the front fans since my mobo (MSI B450 Tomahawk Max) only has that 12v RGB header. The manual says there is an aRGB header from the build in "controller" that is usable for argb strips, but it seem to be limited to only like 20 LEDs since the Phanteks aRGB strip i bought only lights up to about one third (total of 72 LEDs on the strip). My idea was now to use an usb rgb controller, but i am kinda confused as for which one to use and i dont really want to pay like 30 bucks for some whacky controller. Maybe anyone here ran into a similar issue and could share how they solved this.

Hi, Im confused on what to choose between both, they are available on a near local store for almost the same price, I want for i7 9700K @5.2ghz. I usually go with Nzxt but lian li seem fine so I'm confused. your advise? thanks,

Hi! I recently found out that V1 Tech, a company known for making GPU backplates and fan grills, are selling the Lian Li Strimer 24 pin Plus for a reasonable price on their website. Link: https://www.v1tech.com/shop/cables/lian-li-strimer-plus-24-pin-addressable-rgb-power-extension-cable-20cm-7-87/ I know that V1tech is a pretty well known company for making their own backplates, but I have never seen them sell anything that they do not make themselves. Do you think that Its safe to buy the Strimer cable from there, as I cant find it anywhere for a reasonable price or from a retailer I trust. Thanks for your recommendations!

Has anyone worked on the lian li 011 dynamic, if so does anyone know the length that they got for their CPU and GPU connectors. I'm trying to get costume cables from cable mods and was wondering if anyone here knew what length they got. If not any recommendations will help. This will go straight into the PSU, and it's not going to be an extension.

So I really want the Lian - li o11 mini. I have been checking Newegg for the past few weeks, nothing. but when I google "Lian Li o11 mini white" and I click on the first link, as I did every day for the past few weeks, it brings me HERE. Which is the Razer o11d. A few days ago Newegg said that its comes back in stock on the 22nd. I hope I can get my hands on it. Plus, I can't find it anywhere else. (In the US only please) If someone could help me find this anywhere, that would be much appreciated! Thanks!

The Lian Li o11 mini is a fully modular case that can have the whole side panel come off (The side with the mobo IO/ GPU ports) Lian Li said they would release a GPU riser bracket for the case, but I can't find it anywhere (United States) If someone could help me find it that would be amazing! Remember, this is for the Lian Li o11 MINI, not the XL/RAZER/Dynamic edition.

Motherboard: ROG Strix Z370-H (socket LGA 1150) Case: Lian Li 011 Dynamic XL (black) PSU: Corsair 1000Watt 80+ Gold (Link to PSU) ARGB Hub: CoolerMaster 4pin ARGB hub (connects to USB2.0 header for controlling lighting). Hi All, First time PC Builder here, long time tecchy. I've recently built in a Lian Li 011 Dynamic XL, this case has a front panel (what I assume to be ARGB) hub controller which sits at the bottom of the case, it has a SATA power connector, and a 4pin (1pin missing for ARGB) connector. What I'd done was connected the SATA connector on the Lian Li Hub to SATA power, which was plugged into my SATA/Peripherals slot, and the ARGB connector to my CoolerMaster lighting hub. Now I'd like to point out that my cooler master lighting hub uses SATA power to draw its power, so I was pretty sure it was safe to plug this Lian Li Hub Controller. when I booted the system, everything turned on as normal, then after about 5 seconds i smelt a burning plastic smell, the PC auto-shut itself off. I unplugged the PC, and checked the cables, I noticed the SATA power cable leading to the Lian Li hub was very hot, its likely burnt out the Hub Controller and front case ARGB strips now. Well, thats an assumption based on the smell lol. Everything works fine without it, PC Boots, no issues with the PSU or other components from what I can tell. I don't however understand why it smoked....some people have told me why on earth did I plug it into SATA? I'd said because thats where you plug it, even have video to show it, and manual. Link to anothers setup of Lian Li 011 Dynamic Case Link to Lian-Li Case Link to what the Lian Li Hub Connectors look like Link to what the SATA Cables I used look like Edit: Updated with pictures

In my newest build I decided to go with the Lian Li O11 Dynamic with the Galahad 360 AIO Uni fans and the strimmer pro cables for all the rainbow puke I could get my hands on. Everything is ordered and on its way my biggest question is it seems like I'll have some controller overlap with strimmer cables and the Uni fans. I know there is another controller with the Galahad but as I'm not using the fans included I don't think it will matter. My question is if the Strimmer plus cables can connect to the hub on the uni fans or if id have to use the controller for the cables and link it to the motherboard ARGB header giving me two controllers over my desired 1 controller preferred setup.

So, Recently I bought the Lian Li x Razer RGB PC case. I transferred my old system into it, and with the instruction manual came a razer promotional that claimed that the case's RGB could be controlled via Razer Synapse. Unfortunately, my Razer Synapse is not detecting the case, meaning I can't control the RGB functionalities. Also unfortunately, there is little to no information regarding this topic that I could find online. Any input and help would be very much appreciated; perhaps there is a certain cable I am needing to plug in?

Hi! Yesterday I installed my new AIO and case. Asus LC240 White and the new Lian Li o11 mini white. When I turned on my PC today it was making a low pulsating/humming noise. I would attach a video, but its hard to hear the noise over the noise of the fans. It also seems to get louder when I start up a game or heavy task, such as Cyberpunk 2077. Could this be the AIO? Any help is much appreciated!

2020 Build thread for a new machine. Started at the beginning of the year with this and slow and gradually over a 12 month period i've upgraded numerous times and swapped out a stupendous amount of components, not to mention the money spent on all the parts. Here we are end of 2020 and we are still upgrading and still tinkering... let the build log begin... Q1 2020 Planning Parts used: My basket at Overclockers UK: 1 x EK Water Blocks EK-Quantum Kinetic FLT 240 D5 PWM D-RGB Pump / Reservoir Combo - Plexi= £169.99 1 x ThermalTake Riing 120mm LED RGB Fan Sync Edition - Triple Pack= £44.99 1 x XSPC TX360 Ultra Thin Copper Triple Black Radiator - 360mm= £52.99 1 x Corsair ML120 Pro LED White 120mm Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan= £19.99 1 x Corsair Hydro X Series XT 14mm Hardline Clear Tubing - 3 x 1m (CX-9059003-WW)= £17.99 1 x XSPC G1/4" to 14mm Rigid Tubing Triple Seal Fittings - (Black Chrome) - 8 Pack= £28.99 Everything else i've had previously so was reused in this build. One thing i learnt through this rebuild, the corsair hydro x tubing is much harder than the usual PETG stuff im use to. I didn't see this when i bought it and thought it was standard PETG but turns out its PMMA which is an acrylic/poly carbonate plastic so had to use a saw to cut it. You can imagine my face when i first tried to cut it with a new tube cutter lol! I do love this tubing way more though, its much more resistant to scratches and looks clearer. Would definitely be using this again over PETG. The EK Quantum Kinetic FLT 240 - First impressions... It's very solid, very good quality and weighty! The machining is top notch and the material itself is very scratch resistant as i found out when i dropped a few heavy fittings on it by accident! It comes with all the necessary mounting hardware and an allen key tool to remove the G1/4 plugs. I got the FLT version with the D5/DDC mount at the back. As standard, the ports on the face are plugged leaving 2 open ports at the bottom. I feel like the ports at the bottom should have been plugged instead, its very easy to miss and forget that there's actually ports down there.. just something to look out for. The block also comes with a built in LED strip which i have yet to test out but does fit on a standard 5v ARGB header. One thing i did notice and that i always do with EK blocks is testing how tight the screws are in. In this instance the screws were loose. If i was to fill this res block, it probably would have leaked eventually if not straight away as the vibration from the pump. I would 100% you check all your blocks from EK when you first get them to make sure they screws are in tight! As usual, a couple of pictures of the process and a short description. Getting the EK Quantum Kinetic mounted with the D5 pump mounted at the rear. Getting all this mounted together with the fan at the back for intake was an absolute ball ache to do! The standard screws that came with the kit is not long enough, i had to dig out some old screws i had to make this all work. Also note to remember to block off the bottom ports on the res block before you install it. Last thing you want is to fill it and have all the coolant fall out the bottom! New fans, Thermaltake Riing! Came with the controller which i strategically placed under the res for easy access. ML120's at the top, nice crisp but not over the top bright White led fans This bitspower EF Summit that i've had for a millennia now... GPU installed with the riser kit from Phanteks. There is no room underneath, the verti mount sits on the fans shroud... The first bend! Used a mixture of tools and free hand to get the bends right, took a few attempts but PMMA is quite easy to work with provided you get it hot enough. Minimizing those angled fittings and adding more complex bends, something my last build lacked. Finally getting the last of the piping in but need to cut some down to fit a flow meter inbetween. Also not 100% happy with the top bend, its slightly sacking downwards. OCD kicks in, will need to adjust it. More to come later! Another thing to note, i found PMMA tubing fits much tighter in XSPC 14mm fittings. Probably due to the fact that it was designed for PETG and not PMMA. They do fit but takes alot more force to get them in, really have to twist and wiggle them to get them past the orings even with a nice chamfer edge.

I hope this is the right place to post this please let me know and i'll post elsewhere. So i am upgrading to an Asus Prime x570 pro which has 1 a-rgb header (gen 2) and 2 regular rgb headers. I want to install 6 argb fans (lian li bora digital http://www.lian-li.com/bora-digital/) . Now the fans come with a pwm splitter for 6 fans but an argb splitter for 3 and i came to the conclusion reading some other posts that running so many from one header isnt possible due to power limitations. So i ended up finding a cooler master powered splitter (https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/rgb-accessories/masterfan-argb-and-pwm-hub/) that also does pwm and has extra sata power. If i go with argb and pwm from motherboard to the splitter that has sata power should i be able to run the 6 fans from it?

Hello!! I have a PC that was built in a different case and I decided to upgrade into a new case and water supply and now I'm getting weird temperature spikes on Core 5. On top of that the whole PC seems to running hotter. (All temps given will be in Celsius) (Ambient temperature is 72 degrees Fahrenheit) The computer idles around 30 degrees all cores except every 3 seconds Core 5 jumps to about 47 degrees. Then drops back down. Under Cinebenech load I got the computer as high as 80 degrees with Core 5 reaching 82 degrees. The old build was a generic case and Corsair H100i (240mm Radiation) that under the same load would sit at 25 degrees idle and 65 under the fullest load with a 4.7 GHz overclock. Any and all ideas would be appreciated!! Thank you! Case. Lian Li 011 Dynamic Cooler. Lian Li Galahad 360 Thermal Paste Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut (exhausted top) Fans. Asiahorse 360mm (times 2) (intake from side and bottom) Proccessor i7-8700k (OC to 4.4 GHz) RAM Corsair 16Gb 3200hz

Hey there. I'm looking for the Lian-Li PC-Q33B case. It's been discontinued for a while, so I was wondering if anyone knew where it could be found. On the other hand, if there are any other similar cases like it (compact width and depth but tall) I would be interested. The Phanteks Evolv Shift 2 Air barely fits where I'd like it to go (in terms of footprint), but I'd like to leave that case as a last resort. Any help is appreciated!

I am planning a build with MSI mobo, GPU, and Monitor, while my RAM, and AIO is Corsair, stuffed in a Lian Li case with Lian Li fans. How bad can it go in terms of syncing them together?(RGB wise)

So I just completed a new build with an ASUS ROG B550-F Gaming motherboard in a Lian Li Lancool II Mesh RGB case. It looks like Armory Crate recognizes something is attached to the 5v ARGB header, but when I try to apply any effects, nothing happens with the fans. Note that the fans light up if I use some of the pre-programmed modes from the built in controller in the case. I've attached a screenshot for reference. Any idea what I can do to fix it? Am I out of luck with compatibility? Note: I did post this in Troubleshooting but after further research I think it's more appropriate here. sorry if I am breaking any rules by reposting

Hi! I just received my new Lian Li o11 mini White and I finished building my PC. When I turn it on, the power button flashed from purple to blue. (Blue is the normal color) Any idea why? Note that I do not have my USB front panel plugged in, nor the USB C front panel. Thanks for all the help!

As title said, I'm looking at the Arctic LF 360mm Rev3.0 which is going for 199$. ( Rev3.0 is the latest one with a better AM4 bracket, we don't have the cheaper 280mm yet same performance as the 360mm, here sadly ) The only issue is, as good as this cooler is the price is bit high because other offerings in my country are like. Lian Li Galahad 360mm - 166$ NZXT Kraken X73 360mm - 199$ Corsair iCue H115i RGB Pro XT 280mm -146$ Corsair iCue H150i RGB Pro XT 360mm - 166$ Corsair H115i RGB Platinum 280mm - 174$ BeQuiet! Pure Loop 360mm - 141$ BeQuiet! Pure Loop 280mm - 121$ Which would YOU buy personally ?? Cheap s BeQuiet is, but I saw the review the performance is rather weak. While Corsair are one of the loudest...and I think Kraken is slightly worst than Arctic LF but same price. Lian Li seems to be nearly good as Arctic LF and cheaper too ? But what would you recommend if for me if I have these preference. I be using it to cool the 5900X with Crosshair VIII board in the Fractal Design Meshify 2 case. Doesn't care about RGB Want decent cooling and low noise out of the box without swapping the Stock fans Prefer not to use software to tinker around the Fan Curve etc Prefer to deal with RGB fan because the stupid amount of connection needed May consider swapping out Stock fans for EB eLoop B12 P ( 2000 RPM max fans but this is optional, I may stick to Stock fans if they are decent enough )

I am a technician, a customer come to the shop with the Lian Li O11 dynamic razer edition to install ssd and dust cleaning I removed the side panel but I don't know front glass will slide out when I moved the case the front glass come out and shatter on the ground I have to buy the front glass for him anywhere can I buy it now I can't find the frond glass anywhere. Other shops said I have to buy the whole new case since it is $199. If I can't find the front glass I have to buy him for new one.

Budget (including currency): US$800 Country: United States of America Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Light gaming such as Minecraft, Hearthstone, perhaps WoW if I have time. This will primarily be used for teaching undergraduate and graduate level courses, performing remote accounting services for my private clients and I'd like to get into creating video content for my accounting practice. Current parts lists with prices paid. Purchased and ready to go Mobo: ASRock B550M Steel Legend $109.99 CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $199.99 RAM: OLOy WarHawk RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 $ 74.99 HD: Western Digital Blue SN550 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME SSD $ 54.99 Chasis: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic Razer ATX Full Tower Case $ 36.22 PSU: Apex AG 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $119.99 Video: EVGA GeForce 210 1024 MB DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 Video Card $ 47.99 Peripherals: Razer All Star Bundle Christmas Gift (Free) Total invested so far is $644.16 minus sales tax. Still need/would like to purchase Chasis Fans: Lian Li UNI SL120 58.54 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack Video: ASRock Radeon RX 570 8 GB Phantom Gaming D Video Card CPU Cooling: Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML360R RGB Chasis bought on auction at eBay but arrived with shattered tempered glass side panel and broken foot peg. Vendor refunded all money and told me to keep case. This price represents the supplies I purchased at Lowe's to make my own acrylic clear panel to replace the tempered class side panel. Other than that there are no visible dents on the case. I think I got a good deal considering MSRP on this case is currently $169.99 as of the writing of this post. I purchased the GeForce 210 video card from a local computer parts store because video cards are a bit overpriced as of this posting and this way I'll be able to still use the computer and perform work while I save up to buy the rest of the computer parts. Since I got a great deal on the chasis I was hoping to get advice on the remainder of the parts that I'd like to buy. I know many will have strong opinions about the Radeon cards but I feel that for my use case I will be well served by it. If anyone else knows of a good value at around $200-$250 USD for a video card then please comment on this thread. If someone has any suggestions for a low cost, effective closed loop AIO CPU cooler at less than $150 then also respond on this thread. Otherwise I'll just leave the stock cooler. The last time I build a system was with an AMD Athlon system and before that was an Intel Pentium III system with an ATI Radeon graphics card and SoundBlaster sound card (remember those). Thanks for your input.

Officially the clearance for the case is 167mm, while the noctua NH-D15 (which I own) is 165mm high. On partpicker the NH-D15 isn't listed as a compatible cooler. Am I fine or should I look at a different case entirely?

I know there's a dedicated Lian Li vertical GPU bracket but are there any alternatives? I can't seem to find one locally. Here are my options: https://www.amazon.ca/DEEPCOOL-Graphics-Extension-Installation-Applicable/dp/B081Q6NVW9 https://dynaquestpc.com/products/tecware-vxr-vertical-gpu-mounting-bracket-w-pcie-riser Anyone tried using them? Or any suggestions? Thanks

So I finally selected the Lian Li GA-360B Galahad AIO 360 RGB cooler (this one) for my i9-13900K. Is this a good choice and is it a reliable AIO? It will be my fist AIO and my first RGB stuff so want to double check before I pull the trigger Thanks!

so basically I built my pc yesterday and unfortunately the third fan's rgb on my AIO, ARCTIC LIQUID FREEZER ii 360 ARB, doesn't work plus it has an open end 3 pin connector. When the fans were interchanged where the same fan was placed into second and the second to third, it occurred again, the new third positioned fan didn't light up the rgb while the older one did. Which means, any fan placed in the third position will not light up the RGB, yet the fans run. In addition, does LIAN LI offer new thumb screws for its case? I lost the screw which removes the top panel on the LANCOOL 3. It is just one thumb screw, I tried all the rest of the screws that came with the box but none of them worked. What should I do in these two situations?