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I bought an Insignia NS-SBAR21F20 and was trying to control its volume my LG remote controller (I have a OLED B8), but I’ve can’t find a way to do it

Hello, so i recently found a TV (an lg model number 60pa5500-ug from 2012) at a business, i work nights as a guard and the place i was patrolling is one of the nice business districts, now when i found the tv it was quite large and missing the power cable. I found one that was compatible with it and installed it. The thing turns on and i have to work through the menus to get it to where i need it for HDMI, then it turns off I have replaced the power cable, and got a cable for both HDMI and VGA but the tv still turns off what happens when it does it is it flashes white then shuts off, the TV is on maybe about a few minutes but never on longer then 3, the outlet i have it plugged into is by itself and directly into a wall no extra plug is in it when looking it up i thought it maybe was the back and it kept losing the display because it would always appear to be on but after looking it up it may be the power inside of it like the Ysus it is a nice tv for being a decade old and would rather fix this since i also have another tv i want to fix but that one seems harder then this one, and just learn how to get better at fixing things instead of buying new ones because stuff gets old

Hi Team, I wanted a Monitor for gaming as well as for my professional work, From past month I had been searching for them, I needed an IPS display. Finally I narrowed down to 2 monitors. LG 27GL850, 27GP850 I require suggestion for which monitor to choose out of these? Thanks, Harshavardhan

Hi guys, I'm just noticing this as of today, I have a blue hue on my 49 inch TV screen and not sure where it's coming from. I've tried changing a bunch of settings, it shows when i'l pugged in via HDMI to my PC but also through apps directly loaded through the TV so i doubt it's a peripheral issue. I used a SLR camera to take pictures of the screen using different brightness so that it's easier to make out what is happening. It seems to be mostly on the right half of the screen. Anyone have any ideas of what is going on ? I hope I don't need a new TV...

I have 3 options in my budget, 1) Samsung Odyssey G5 27 curved 2) Acer Nitro VG271U 27 inch 3) LG ultragear 69

I am looking to buy one of these two tv's since they are both on sale in my country at the moment, at the same price range. It looks like the LG is normally a lot more expensive than the samsung in my country. Both are 65 inch tv's Also when I try to google for the NANO92 I come up empty. Just a lot about nano90/nano91. So it might be that they are called something else in other countries, I thought it might be the equivelent of nano90, but when i searched it lookked like it used the 3gen a7 proccessor, where the Nano92 uses a gen4. So i am a bit confused. Hope someone can clarify. For reference, at this moment I am using a LG UN7100plb, which has been fine for my, although sometimes I feel like it can get too dark in my games. I am playing on my ps5

Hello, I just got my DP - HDMI 2.1 adapter but I can't get 4k 120Hz in the Nvidia control panel. The "PC" resolutions only get to 2560x1440 120Hz. It's strange because when I initially connected everything it was working, but the borders were cropped. I solved the borders problem, disconnected-reconnected a few times and now I can't find the 4k 120Hz resolution. Already restarted the PC, updated drivers, checked windows refresh rate, reconnected cable + adapter in various ways and . Adapter and cable shouldn't be a problem since I already managed to get 4k 120Hz, they are both hdmi 2.1 rated.

The last phone I changed was in 2017, which happens to the LG V30+. Now, it's seems to be failing on me, sure it had taken a lot of drops, somehow, the last drop, it may have affected its wireless connectivity, WiFI and cellular data. Why I lasted with that phone for SO LONG: Power button is also a fingerprint (it automatically unlocks your phone if I placed my finger on it, even if the screen is not on) Headphone jack (it just works, I'm not going to switch to wireless, plus certain rent cars, still uses aux) micro-SD card slot (Ability to switch out to an empty card, thus, clearing gallery quickly) 6 inch screen (the original figure that I could go, not a fan of big screens) 128 GB internal (Oof, apps are getting bigger and bigger) NFC (Top-up my public transport card at home) Wireless charging (If I'm driving, I can charge it) Type-C, but I'm not sure if it's rev 2.0 or 3.0. Fast forward to 2022, I couldn't find any phones that is comparable with the LG V30+, even if I up the 6 inch screen to 6.2, it's missing out few of the NEEDED features. I'm not really gaming too much (nor the demands), just Star Trek Timelines, and two casual games. So far, it's pretty stupid to have 'QHD+' at 6.5+ inch but it was available back in 2017 at 6 inch (2880x1440)? Any suggestions?

Hello After changing channel, the picture on my LG 49UH620V television started doing this flicker. I tried reseting the software to factory settings, then tried leaving it unplugged over night, and still no fix. The issue is here on this video Any suggestions on a fix? I found this fixing guide in which the guy had the same problem (from about 11 minutes, still image at 13:33). Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm really unfamiliar with most of the components of this TV so I'm not really sure where to draw the parallels. I've attached some pictures of my TV below. Thanks

This should definitely be an interesting 1... If anyone remembers, a few months back --[Approximately, but I don't remember exactly how long it's been.]-- I made a few posts regarding my console setup. Now, I'm at an interesting situation to say the least. Due to how small my room is, I can't have a TV in here as much as I want to for my consoles. But, using my gaming monitor for my consoles isn't too big of a deal anyway. My monitor is the MSI Optix MPG27CQ btw. However, the topic of today is using my speaker [The LG UltraGear GP9] with the Wii U. So far, I have it hooked up to the monitor via HDMI & I managed to get the Gamepad connected & get the console itself onto my WiFi network. Now as far as how I would need to use the Wii U with the speaker is simple: have HDMI going to the monitor for both video & audio. But since the speaker itself does NOT have an HDMI port, that means I somehow have to split the video & audio. When I chatted with a Gamestop agent about this a little while ago, he said running HDMI to the monitor & then connecting the speaker to my monitor via a 3.5 mm audio cable would work, but I'm not quite so sure given that I've never done this before. As far as this method above goes, since it hasn't worked so far, is there like a setting on the Wii U I need to change in order to get sound out via the speaker? If it won't work that way, then should connect the included usb cable to the Wii U...? [I'm not sure if that's what I need to do here.] Nonetheless, I'm sort of confused & at a loss for words & I would highly appreciate it if I can chat about this with someone who is experienced enough & can help! And if there's a different solution I need to implement which hasn't occurred to me yet, the feel free to let me know! If I ended up forgetting anything or if you need anymore details, please don't hesitate to ask & I will be sure to answer back! Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me out with this!

i know that the Asus pg279qm is a better monitor than the LG ultragear 27gp83B-B but in my country the Asus costs $1300 while the LG costs $640 so for this price difference i would go for the LG what do you guys think?

Heya LTT forum users! I bought this monitor off amazon about two days ago and was having a wonderful experience until about an hour ago the monitor went black and started to show lines down the screen. I checked the HDMI port it was plugged into and the cable, I attempted to turn it off and on again and all haven't solved the issue. It isn't the cable or my laptop's HDMI out as it did it without anything being plugged in. I will provide photos, apologies for quality. Any ideas on how to fix this? Anything helpful will be appreciated, youtube and other forums weren't at all helpful. Thanks, Goose.

So for a while now I have been angry that my tv just doesn't look the greatest. And i realized that I haven't color corrected it. So does anyone have some good configs for just general tv watching for my tv listed in the title above?

My toddler somehow cracked the panel on my LG 34GK950G-B and I'm having a rough time finding a replacement panel. I've tried looking on panel look but the model number doesn't bring up any results. Where else can I look? Should I just call it a loss and get a new monitor once I can swing it?

I'm looking to get my first ultra-wide and I'm trying to decide between either a budget ultra-wide vs the more premium model. I've come down to either the this LG one or the Dell one. My research indicates that the Dell one is a good value for the money and checks most of my boxes. The only one that it doesn't check is that it isn't IPS, which I can live without (probably) since I'll mostly be gaming. On the other hand, the LG one checks all my boxes but comes at a $300 premium. If I wasn't upgrading my computer (CPU & GPU) alongside my monitor, this wouldn't be as tough of a decision for me. Is the $300 increase worthwhile in the long run? I'd hate to look back 1-2 years from now wishing I had gone with the LG. From the reviews I've watched about the Dell, everyone says it's great except for that it's VA panel. I guess YMMV with each panel and what you do with it but what is the consensus here regarding these two options? Any feedback is appreciated.

Hey guys, I'm looking for a new multi-purpose display - gaming, general productivity, media consumption, digital drawing etc. - although, this will be my auxillary display, as in, it won't be directly in front of me, but rather to my left at quite an angle. Just making things clear, doubt it's that important. I managed to narrow down my potential options to Samsung Odyssey G5A and LG UltraGear 27GN88A-B. Which one would be better? I'm curious about LG's NanoIPS display, but I read that there are potential problems with backlight. I remember that Linus made a video about it's older brother, I guess? The UltraFine Ergo and I was immediately interested in that ergo stand. In terms of pricing I can get the LG for ~440$ and Samsung for ~380$ plus 40$ for a third party ergo stand. That's why LG looks like a fine choice, since it seems to have everything I need, including ergo stand. Opinions from display experts would be greatly appreciated I'm open to other options, my budget is around 440$ with ergo stand of my preferred choice. As for requirements, I need 27", at least 144Hz IPS panel with both G-sync and FreeSync support, solid colors, but no need for HDR.

So I've been having alot of trouble trying to reconnectmy subwoofer to the soundbar. I have the LG SN7R, and it comes with a 33w sub (model no: SPN5B-W). Everything had worked fine up untill yesterday, I came home, and the sub hasn't connected to the soundbar. I have tried a few things, power cycling both the soundbar and sub. Re connecting all of the wireless systems by holding the volume down button for a few seconds, then the mute button for a few after. Another process that you hold the vloume down button and the sound effect button for a few seconds. Seince I'm here then nothing has worked, the LED on the sub will not stop flashing green, apparently it can alternate between red and green, it can be solid red, but all I've seen is flashing green. And seince trying all these things, and the soundbarhas connected fine to the small receiver that controls the rear speakers. I'm lead to imply there's a problem with the sub, so I took the back off and aside for an ungodly ammout of glue I think it is, everything seemed fine and connected properly. But does anyone have anything else i could try? Ive had this setup for 10 months so it's not old. Otherwise I may have to just return it and try to find something similar.

Hi everyone! I'm thinking about getting new earphones, but I can't choose between the Samsung Galaxy Buds2 and LG TONE Free FN7. I've tried the latter and I know it fits, but I'm not sure about the Galaxy as I've never tried. I have an S20 FE and a Galaxy Watch4 (and MAYBE I'll buy a Samsung tablet later this year), so the sound quality should be better and I can use their "ecosystem" stuff. What do you think, which one should I get?

Hi all - Me and my family have had 1080P TVs for the longest time and never really saw a need for a new TV until one day we were walking through our local PCRichards for appliances and saw the 4K LG OLED TVs and they definitely convinced us to upgrade. We are NOT looking to spend OLED money however as we don't have $1300+ to spend on a TV unfortunately. We would like to be around $650 maximum for the TV. We would prefer LG as the brand but if you guys have better recommendations please let me know. Some preferred specs would be: >4K >55+ inches >integrated speakers that are decent would be nice but are not a must Thank you for any Information

Hi everyone! Anyone maybbe have LG monitor 27UL500 with PS5 and can share with his settings? I have issues with gray shades (screen looks like a fog) when i play games like AC: Valhalla oraz Guardians of the Galaxy. It's probably bbecauce I can't set correctly settings. I know that this model have not so good HDR but it should not look like that. Thanks from advance!

Hello there. __Introduction__ I've recently been setting up my home theater equipment in a new apartment, but I have been experiencing a few problems down the road. Most notably, loss of audio. Due to the handful of devices connected, there wasn't enough HDMI-in ports on my AV receiver. To get around this, I've invested in a HDMI switch, so I can take on more signals from various devices. Since my AV receiver handles the surround sound speakers, everything goes through that. __The Problem__ Temporarily, my consoles would send the signal to the AV receiver, which would then send the signal to the TV, so no problems there. However, to get more inputs, everything went from the consoles, through a HDMI switch, then to an AV receiver, then finally to the TV. But for some reason, this kills the audio signal entirely. None of the consoles detect an audio output anymore, so the speakers remain silent (both on the AV receiver and TV). If there's only 1 "middle man" in this chain (HDMI Switch or AV Receiver), then both audio and video works fine. But if both are added to the chain, the audio is lost entirely, and not even shown as an output on any of the consoles. __Alternatives__ I'm currently thinking of a workaround, where the consoles would send video to the TV directly, and audio would be sent to the AV receiver via TOSLINK for audio. Once I get the necessary cables, I'll be trying that out. __Components__ - Samsung UE32ES635U - LG HB965TZ - Delcato HDMI-7044 - PlayStation 3 Super Slim - Xbox ONE - Xbox 360 Original

Currently got the 144Hz model of this and really happy with it. I got it when it first came out so wanted to save a little money getting 144Hz and wasn't playing loads of PC games. (Got it for 120Hz on PS5) I've since got into PC games a lot more like Valorant and need a new monitor, as my terrible 4k one is on the way out. Was looking to just get this one so I can have the higher refresh rate and just move my 144Hz one to be a side monitor for content instead of games. So I guess my question is... Is £279.99 a good price for this? Are there any new monitors coming out soon that might get the price down?

Hey there, I'm currently deciding if I want to get the LG C1 (OLED65C17LB) or the Samsung Neo QLED QN90A (GQ65QN90AATXZG). I don't use sound at all as I have external speakers, I don't care about any features that I can think of really, I just want the best image quality I can get for this price. But now the question is: What is the best picture quality for my situation? I'm mostly using the TV in a dimmed room to watch movies or to play some games, around 2 hours a day. Now most people would tend to the OLED because of the low light situation, but is the worse color accuracy and missing HDR10+ support worth the trade-off for the good black color? (I'm a complete noob here, so this sentence might not have made any sense.) All help appreciated!

I have an LG 38GN950-B. I haven't seen anyone specifically report issues on this model of display, but when the monitor goes into power save, after 3-5 minutes, it will disconnect from DisplayPort. It also turns off all the USB ports, but that happens regardless of the DisplayPort connection issue. When I got this monitor, I had 6 monitors already, but got rid of one to make this fit. I still have 6 monitors, and the only difference from before is that this is now my primary display. My Setup ASUS ROG Crossfire VIII Hero AMD Ryzen R9 5950X nVIDIA GeForce RTX 3090 (for driving my ultrawide monitors and a VR headset) nVIDIA GeForce GTX 970 (for driving other monitors) The monitor is plugged into the furthest DisplayPort on the 3090. The 970 is in the bottom-most 16x slot on this board which only runs at 4x. That means my 3090 has the full PCIe 16x bandwidth available. Things I've Tried Exchanging the monitor for a brand new one. Swapped the existing Monoprice DisplayPort cable for a QVS one from Micro Center one. Used the DisplayPort cable that came in the box. Changing the refresh rate between from 160Hz to 120Hz, and then to 60Hz. Swapped the existing ASUS TUF 3090 for an ASUS ROG STRIX 3090. Turned off G-Sync. Resetting the monitor settings, disabling overclocking, disabling every power save and eco setting, etc. Using a different color profile in Windows. What worked When using my Surface Pro 6 tablet with a miniDP to DP adapter and the same cable model of cable, it works fine. It's possible this adapter is doing something though. Also, the tablet is using Intel graphics, not nVIDIA. This may be the issue. Help me Does anyone know what might be going on? Maybe something I could do to fix it or at least figure out what's wrong? I've been going back and forth with LG support wasting many hours of my time trying to figure this out. I'd replace the monitor with another brand, but the only other 3840x1600 monitor not made by LG is the Alienware AW3821 (using the same panel). Sadly, you can't disable the local backlight dimming on that display, and reviews say the backlight dimming is really bad. I've thought about getting a 4K replacement, but the only suitable one that matches this width would be a 40" 4K@120Hz curved monitor w/ HDR (if one exists), and it'd have to support HDMI 2.1. At a previous job, they bought me a Philips BDM4037UW which, while only 60Hz, was the perfect size. Philips doesn't manufacture it anymore, and it doesn't fit my needs for a primary display. From looking around, literally no manufacturers have a 40" curved display. They have some 43" models, but they're not curved . Other Reports Online Many people have been seeing these issues with the 27" model, but not the 38" model. I'm assuming that's because I'm in the minority and that most people who own this display aren't using multiple monitors. Just a guess. Amazon review of the LG 27GN880-B. Reddit thread on the LG 27GN950-B. Reddit thread on two LG 27GN880-B. AMD thread on the LG 27GL83A-B. LTT thread on an unlisted monitor. ArsTechnica thread on unlisted LG monitor. Apple Discussions thread on unlisted LG 5K monitor. nVIDIA thread on Acer XB270HU and Acer CB270HU monitors. Others note issues with the AOC 2460PF, ASUS PG279Q, ASUS VG279QM, Alienware AW3418DW, and many others, but this thread is 6 years old. It looks like it was a driver issue. This is also the only non-LG disconnect thread I've seen.

Yellow tints on the sides of TN Panels? So, I just got this: https://www.lg.com/levant_en/monitors/lg-27MK400H-B second hand, and so far, it seems it has yellow tints on the sides and top of it??? Is this a normal thing for TN panels with their lack of color accuracy and bad viewing angles? I am sitting straight ahead of the monitor, but it's a 27" 1080p, so that might take into effect?? Any pointers would be appreciated!