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Showing results for tags 'internal'.
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cd-rom Looking for internal optical disc readers (Blu-ray & DVDs)
RossFrost posted a topic in Peripherals
Howdy, I am planning on making a optical disk tower and I need some recommendations of optical drives for Blu-Ray and DVDs + CD readers, too. I would like them internal and mid to high range quality that has good error correcting abilities. Thanks! -
Hi Im building a small software riad for my increasing bluray backup (plus all other valuable data) the array will be built of 8tb HDDs, in a cooler master silencio 550 (i went to a fiar bit of effort to find a case with 5.25" bays as well as many hdd space). I have 2x 5.25 blueray drives and an 3rd 5.25" bay with an hotswap bay. Hdds go upto 18tb currently in the consumer space, i considered however that it may be useful to create an external parity drive for the array in the pc. The array will be running windows as my backup software will need to be run on this ofc and i dont understand enough about unraid or similiar things to worry about running containers and feeding the hdd space to it etc (seems too complex to worry about tbh) This is more a thought experiment atm but due to the fact that a single large drive is also very expensive- based on the fact the array is unlikely to be updated very often- could an drive be created for parity to keep in as an "external" spare to help rebuild the array should one drive fail? I know most of you will say nas or synology but i really dont need anything like a nas just a vault to protect my data and hold my bluray drives etc May also be worth mentioning this pc i will need to run headlessly which i will be looking into so any advice here would be great (no i dont want a subscription). Any thoughts on this would be welcome. Thanks alex
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Linus recently reviewed the Framework laptop and stated in a later episode that he was so impressed that he invested in the project. I absolutely agree that this is a valuable project and that it deserves to win. As I travel frequently and do all my work on the road, an expandable laptop like the Framework is ideal for my needs. It is also the ideal size, at 13." A 15" is too large for all the places I need to use it, which is sometimes a hostel-bed in a far corner of the world. I do have some features I'd like to see and I'd like to run it by the forum, before I contact framework with a feature request. What I'd like to see added to the Framework laptop, on later models, is a second internal ssd. I know that you can add a second ssd module on usb; but, this tends to be slow during cloning, which is the exclusive method I use for data backups. I use clonezilla, on a usb-stick for this. All of my systems (laptops exclusively) are multiboot. My current system has Windows 10, debian Buster and Ubuntu. When I have a system with 2-ssd slots, I use the second for "internal" backup, which is bunches faster than hanging the backup drive on a usb port and doesn't require the external drive at all. I used to clone drive to drive (bare-metal); but, I currently only save the image to the backup drive. I'm completely confident in this methodology and clonezilla for this. While the scenario I described is convenient, it leaves something to be desired. A more ideal hardware configuration would be to have 4x internal ssd slots. Please allow me to explain, as there is madness to my method One thing I've learned multibooting is that Windows just won't play nice with other distros; so, it's best isolated on it's own drive, with my linux distros on a secondary system-drive. Also, internal b/u is so much faster and convenient than external b/u that it would be ideal for each system-drive to have it's own internal b/u drive, NVMe preferred, all around. With M.2 ssds (2280s) the form factor is small enough to accommodate this, even in a 12.6" unit. The b/u drives could be hibernated or electrically switched-off, when not in use. This could be done with switches or in the BIOS/UEFI firmware to save power. I imagine the b/u drives should be twice the size of the system-drives. For example, both the Windows 10 drive and the linux system drive can be 1TB, with their respective b/u drives being 2TB. This would allow the creation of an equal or better sized partition, to store b/u images; and a separate spare data partition, where the user might store his music, videos, games, etc.There might be several power mitigation strategies that could be handled at the BIOS or OS level, depending on whether the user wants one or both of the b/u drives to be completely off or just sleeping; so, that they're available on-standby, without rebooting and reconfiguring the firmware. I would also allow all four ssd slots to be configured as systems drives. As the system ages and accidents happen, this just might save the user's canadian-bacon some day, if a primary-slot fails. BTW, I love canadian-bacon. It's my favorite vegetable
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Hi! Thanks for checking out my post. I'm currently looking for a very specific type of SSD. My sister has an old junk laptop that has an unbearably slow HDD, and I would like to replace it with an SSD to make it faster. I also have plans to use this SSD in a computer I may build her (I will take it out of the laptop once it's been built). However, I'm kind of on a budget and I am looking for some specific specs. Here they are: I'm looking for something within the price range of $25 - $70. It has to be 480 - 500gb, and has to have a DRAM cache. It also has to be 2.5" (as I stated earlier, I'm putting this in a laptop). I would prefer for it to come from certified seller websites, such as Amazon, Newegg, Best Buy, Walmart, Staples, Office Depot, and/or B & H photo, but I may be open to sites like ebay or lazada. I know I'm asking for a lot, but any suggestions would help out a ton. I already did some research on SSDs with DRAM caches already, but I am not sure if any of them actually have caches, as I mostly got my answers from, "Questions asked," or "User Reviews" (sellers tend not to say too much about the DRAM cache on the product pagse/specs). Please let me know if the following specs are not possible for the price range. PS: Thanks to everyone who helps out, and I hope you have a great day. If anything I said above is conflicting, wrong, or something of the likes, please tell me - I am somewhat new to the tech community.
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Hey everyone! I've got a homelab with 4 DC's and a handful of Servers and VM's. 3 of 4 are 2016 or 2019, but I have one legacy 2008R2 that I use. I'd prefer not to have it open to the internet since it's EOL and not receiving any updates. I prefer 2008R2 and want to keep one until Microsoft completely kills it off (I've got Windows 7 VM's in the same boat). I've gone the easy route of setting a GPO in AD called "Legacy Windows 7 or Older" to set Domain Firewall rules to block Incoming and Outgoing port 80 packets. I'd turn off Windows Firewall to manually grab definition updates and Chrome updates for my internal uses. Is there a better way to have traffic shaping setup? I'd like to have ALL programs blocked unless they are MSE or Immunity. I'm also open to other Windows Server free Antivirus. Hopefully that makes sense... Thank you!
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- 2008r2
- networking
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This one may be a weird one. I have been trying to build a new PC out of spare parts. However, I want it to have an internal speaker that actually plays audio, and not just a Buzzer. So I took an old speaker apart and mounted it on the front of the PC. The problem lies here. you have to put your ear to the hole in the front (No, I didn't drill the hole in, it's an old PC case), even at full volume. I want it so it's loud enough where you could put it somewhere near the ground and you can work from a desk. Is there any way to make the speaker loud enough to hear it without damaging it?
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Hi! So I have my old hard drive from my PC and I have a SATA to USB adapter to plug it in to the laptop and use it as an external one. It might be a little corrupted(but not unreadable) just a little corrupted since it gave out read errors from time to time and it didn't boot Windows from it and sometimes booted but then crashed after a few minutes but otherwise worked fine the rest of the time(sometimes it booted just fine no problems) So I guess it's corrupted but not unusable. So now that I got rid of my old PC I want to use the hard drive from it as an external one(temporarily) for my laptop with the adapter mentioned above. Will it harm my laptop or it's filesystem in some way if I connect it via this adapter and it's corrupted? Or it will be fine and worst case scenario I just won't be able to access the hard drive? I know it's kind of a stupid question but I have never before successfully hooked up a SATA internal hard drive externally via USB so I just want to make sure it's fine.
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Are there any 3+ USB port hubs currently on the market that are powered by PCI-E alone? I don't care if its a x1 or x16 form factor but the big niche of a hub that I'm looking for is that it does not need an external power cable. Being picky so I can manage the cables properly both inside and outside my case. Thinking something along the lines of this Chinese board (Newegg.ca), but just significantly more reliable.
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Hello, I want to put in a HDD (2.5") into my Lenovo laptop and the laptop came with a cable and 4 screws to allow me to do so. But the problem I have is that the pictures of the HDD online that I am looking to buy all have a 4 pin socket next to the SATA connector. This means that the drive would need power (1.2 W for the model I'm interested in) and I don't have a dedicated cable for this. Also I don't understand how power delivery works inside a laptop. So does this mean I can only install a SSD drive?
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Wondering if it is poosible to bend an internal usb 3.0 cable to hard and break it? I just got an extension for it in my pc and didn't have much room so i had to bend it to make the length right. Just curious if it is possible to break the cable by bending it to hard?
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I have recently bought a new system, with an ROG STRIX Z270-I GAMING and Corsair H115i platinum. -The motherboard only has one USB 3 internal connector and one USB 3.1 internal connector. Problem is that the AIO cooler needs a micro-usb connection, and there is an adaptor, however it is only USB 2, physically incompatible with USB 3 headers. I want a simple USB 3/3.1 internal header to micro USB connection, without having to buy a load of bulky adaptors, as I have very little cable management space (Phanteks ENTHOO EVOLV SHIFT X) Any help on this subject would be greatly appreciated :)
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Hello, I have built my PC for some time now and I have noticed that it says 'Eject Device' and shows my main drive (ssd/w os) and one of my 1 tb drives with a 500gb separation (HDD). Just wondering on how to fix this as they are internal drives and out of all my time building PCs I haven't come across this before, is this common? Hoping you can fix this problem for me as I am having very little luck finding a solution on google etc. Thanks in advance.
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Hey guys, my hobby server from my last post is coming along well! But since I plan on using it also as cloud storage, I was wondering what the cheapest option for that would be. I'm thinking about using an external USB HDD like the Seagate Expansion Desktop, since it's so fucking cheap. I know it will be slow and probably rather risky not using it in an raid array when it's on 24/7, but I just need big storage! I pretty sure it should work, but I thought that it's always better to ask!
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So I bought a 8tb WD My book external harddrive, because it was the cheapest 8tb harddrive I could find, but I want to use it as internal harddrive. I disassembled it from the case, and plugged it to another usb-sata converter just to test it works without its own case and it did work just fine, I insert the files I wanted and prepare to make the drive internal for new pc. (Ive done the same before when external harddrives case has broken over time, usually the harddrive itself still works just fine internally...) However, once I plug the 8tb drive inside with sata connectors, computer dosent recognize it at all and it dosent even start to spin. I tried switching the sata power and data cables to another drive and that drive starts to spin just fine and is recognized by the computer. I also noticed that if the computer power is on, and once you plug in the sata power to any drive it should instantly start to spin even without data cable, but the 8tb WD drive didnt even do that. If I plug the 8tb WD drive with the same computer to any usb-to-sata converter, it starts to spin and works just fine. So I was wondering, is there something Im missing? Does it need more power from psu or is there some compatibility issue? Any help would be appreciated Motherboard is Asus Prime x470, Ryzen 7 x2700 and psu is Corsair CX750M (750w), Windows 10 The computer build is new. The 8tb WD hard drive inside the case is model WD80EZAZ Thank you
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Hello! I just built my new PC and I’m super stoked! From my old build I had a 2tb HDD that works great, but as soon as I tried to connect it to my main one it did not get recognized, even through Disk Management. It does not even show up in my bios. I want to be able to use this disk and keep the data on it because it has all my AE project files on it and I need them. Is there anyone who can help out? Also, when trying to mount the disk in Disk Management it shows a 4gb partition but when I try to mount it it says something about a I/O port not working. Thank you for reading!
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I've been wondering this for a while if using an external hard drive is fine as a internal hard drive or is it a bad idea like if it'll stop working or any other problem. Because I've been using it on my PC to save games since my 1TB internal hard drive ran out of storage.
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- hard drive
- external
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Hi, I have a WD Black 4TB in an enclosure used as an external HDD. I'd like to turn it into an internal HDD for my desktop system. I know going for USB to SATA connection is probably not as easy as just plug-and-play. However, besides having to back up the data, re-format the HDD, put it in the system and partition it, is there a quicker and easier way to turn the HDD into an internal one? Thanks in advance.
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From the past few days, I'm experiencing a frequent Blue Screen of Death with the following message: "VIDEO-SCHEDULER-INTERNAL-ERROR". This error came into existence from the new 2200G graphics card update version 18.5.1 I tried many ways such as checking the disk and other stuff to fix it but the problem persists.
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I just installed a used internal wireless card into a system I just built with half used parts and I'm trying to diagnose whether or not I'm dealing with a dead wireless card or a dead pci-e port. Since the card won't show up in device manager what I'm wondering is would the card show up in there without any drivers installed on it? (admittedly, I forgot to check the model before installing, so I'll have to tear it down again to find out the model to manually search for the drivers if I have to...) But I ran driver booster which came up as fully updated with the card installed. If the card is dead I'm also wondering if it may have been my fault as there was a little accidental twisting of the wires that connect the antenna's to the board as I tried to unscrew/screw the antennae on. Are the wires on these things that sensitive??
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Hi I am screwed: I have an internal 3 TB HDD which has suddenly stopped working. I tried to switch cables to be sure it is because of the HDD. When Iooked on the logic board of the HDD I recognized a change in color on the pins. They now look blue, red an partly still golden. Other soldered contacts are as far as I can see (I do not have a fitting screwdriver) all turned blue. I uploaded an Image that shows the back of my hdd focussed on the pins I expect to be connected to the inner of the HDD. I feel the HDD spinning when it is plugged to the power connector and it was detected once when I started the computer but then it disappeared. Overall my pc acted very weird when this problem occurred first today because it took at least a minute to boot (I have an I7 6700K and an ssd with Windows 10 on it) which it did not take anymore when I unplugged the HDD. My room is quite humid but I did not expect this to happen though. Is it really because of humidity and is there any good solution to that problem? My HDD is a WD Blue 3.0 TB with 64 MB of cache or should I rather say it was? I do not have warranty anymore and I cannot spend a lot of money on professional data recovery. EDIT: I found the solution and the drive works quite well now, but still: Don't be stupid as I was - create a backup! So, the pins I expected to be the problem (see first picture) do still look remarkably strange but I had to take away those screws and on the other side of the plate, there are the real pins that connect to the inner of the drive. You should now look at the second picture which shows the pins (that connect to the inner - I guess the read head) and as you notice they are not shiny but corroded and that was the whole problem. I read online that in order to fix that you should take an eraser gently clean the pins with it. It works quite fine and as long as you do not use too much force while doing that the plate will still be working (I do not guarantee anything.). Now the pins should be shining again and now when the screws are bolted you can hopefully revive your HDD (For me it worked.). By the way that grinding sound that my HDD made was quite silent and was not an issue (Several people with the same hdd noticed that).
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i have 2 - WD 3 TB internal hard disks, i was wondering if there's like any economical way to use them as portable external hard disks. Suggestions are much appreciated.
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Which is the Best - Seagate 1 TB or WD 1 TB internal Hard disk ? And what is the difference in wd blue ,, wd black ,, wd vaiolet..etc
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Strange issue. I have 4 internal storage devices connected to my PC. One 500GB M.2 as boot, a disk drive, and two other 1TB SATA HDDs, one with 2 partitions. Every once and a while, the two HDDs will disappear, as well as the disk drive, even in device manager. The only way to fix it is to click on "Scan for hardware changes" in device manager. Then they show up, and after a while (Usually after sleeping the PC) they disappear again. How to fix?? All help appreciated, -King_of_Oz
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- hdd
- not showing up
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Over the past weekend I made my first new build in about 4 years. Specs as follows: Windows 10 64-Bit Home i7-8700 ASUS Prime Z370-A 16 GB DDR4 2400 MHz I have 4 SSDs in total: m.2 NVMe SSD which is my main/boot drive. The other three are an array of Samsung SATA III's and I use them just as extra storage. My main SSD of the three has been causing problems, though. I had this drive for a year on my previous build and always worked fine. Last night it randomly was no longer detected in Windows. Restarted in BIOS and it wasn't detected there either after lagging up the boot process. I powered down and unplugged the power and data cables for this drive, and then plugged it back in. It was detected after that. It worked until just about 30 minutes ago. It was detected by Windows and BIOS, but when I went to open the drive for the actual files, it couldn't access the drive. Tried running a Chkdsk but it says it's now RAW, so A) this has to be wrong because I had it formatted about a year ago when I bought it and always worked fine, and B) even if it were actually RAW, I don't want to reformat it right now and risk losing tons of important data on it. I tried to restart the computer after this error and the computer just hung up on the motherboard's splash screen. Turned it off, unplugged the drive and the computer booted fine without it. Isn't this weird since it's 2nd in priority and not the boot drive? Just a few other things to mention: I've tried using different SATA III data ports on my motherboard with the other drives and they work fine, so it's clearly an isolated issue with this drive. In addition I've tried using other SATA power cable connectors with the other drives, and there is no issue with them either. The chipset and NVMe drivers are the latest offered by ASUS, Intel, and Samsung for their respective hardware. I'm using AHCI mode for SATA, and the m.2 is set to PCIe Gen 3X4 Does this sound like the drive is simply failing? If so, can I at least clone the data somehow if I can't re-access the drive? Thanks.
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Hey guys, I'm trying to run an old blu-ray player that I had laying around as an external player. I picked up this part that transfers power for the drive as well as sata data over usb 3. For some reason it doesn't show up in windows 10 no matter what I do. The drive powers on and I can load a disc in and close it, then it clicks like its working, but nothing happens on screen. When I'm in device manager on windows, when I power the unit off and back on the screen refreshes, so it would appear to me that it is indeed connected and interacting, but just not in the correct way. If anyone has done this before or has experience, please let me know. Thanks!