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So does a device exist that can take in power from the outlet, store it like a battery, provide the needed power to A PC, monitor, etc. But use the battery to equalize or prevent spikes from power usage and prevent breakers from being tripped from my 3 monitors and flagship PC setup? Do they make UPS's for this?

If you dim domestic lights using a standard dimmer switch, do you actually consume less electricity?

Alrighty so I've completely bought everything new at this point. I thought it was Ram nope that works. I bought a new power supply bc it seemed like the old one didn't work. Bought a new motherboard bc I couldn't think of anything else as to why the pc is not powering on. I've tried different cables from the same Psu manufacturer—different outlets. The only thing I haven't tried is if the CPU is fried or dead. Idk if this helps but with the first psu I got the fans to turn on for a split millisecond but it immediately turned off. https://newegg.io/39a05188 <--- my build

My PSU is not connected to anything, I'm just testing if power goes to the PSU via the AC extension cord into the wall outlet. I have tried this using two different AC extension cords and on three different AC wall outlets. As I plug my black cord from my PSU to the AC extension cord I can hear a brief crackling noise. This noise happens with the PSU set to "I" or "0" I want to know if this is a normal noise when plugging in the PSU or a sign of something very wrong? I'm worried and don't want to connect the motherboard or other things can be damaged... PSU is Corsair RM Series 850 Watts thanks

so I want to ask is it true that the stabilizer protection feature is better than the default protection from the PSU?

I am getting a new CPU, motherboard and RAM from US. I plan to use those parts in India. All the other components (including the PSU) were bought in India. Will these new components work fine (because of the PSU) or will they get fried or cause some problems due to different electricity specification (I dont know the correct term) or some other factor ? India uses 240V @ 50hertz while US uses 110-120V @ 60herts. So is it safe to import parts from US and use it in my rig ?

Hi, I would like to test my laptop (all together and CPU and GPU alone) and see if it's power consumption while idle and under gaming is normal and stable. I watch many youtubers showing a clear graphic very easy to read showing it. What software do they use and how do they convert to such easy readable graphic? For example GamersNexus's video about the 3090 Ti. Source of the screenshot: (EVGA RTX 3090 Ti FTW3 Review & Benchmarks: Power, Thermals, & Overclocking - YouTube) I was told HWinfo64 would help, but I don't find how. Any advice / tutorial?

For my desk, I use an extension to maximize the 1 socket that I do have but I've been noticing some strange things about the extensions. After a few months of use it would start to make this kind of crackling noise coming from the plug, then whenever I took it out of the plug I would notice how the prongs have some kind of corrosion on them. Talking to a handyman who comes around often he told me the best solution is to use a sacrificial adapter/extension so that my appliances don't get affected. Another method he showed me was to scrape off the corrosion either using a sharp edge or sand paper This doesn't just happen on my extension but also has happened to other appliances like a phone charger as well. The only temporary solution I've found so far is to plug in through an extension and make sure to never to plug it in directly to the wall to prolong its lifespan. some information to note. I will admit that I'm using an extension that i found sitting in a cupboard for goodness-knows-how-long so perhaps it might be partially my fault. Additionally, i am running my laptop dock setup off of this extension, so maybe power draw is a factor?. What I would like to know is what exactly this phenomenon is. I believe its called "arcing" if I'm not mistaken. How do I prevent it from happening or is there a way to fix/repair affected appliances? Is this a normal occurrence, as in, is this a part of wear and tear or is something wrong with my setup?

hello, a month ago i bought an r9 fury, the problem is that my psu wasn't enough, so i bought an EVGA 610W BP, and when i plugged my pc the breaker tripped again and again. so i called a friend and at his house we tried his gpu in my pc (rx 5500xt) and it worked just fine, then we tried my r9 fury in his pc and also worked just fine (he has a corsair cv650 psu), but then, i took off my psu from my pc and put it in his pc and the breaker tripped again... i don't know what could be the problem... i don't think it's the psu wattage since i've been told that a psu shouldn't make the breaker trip if the power isn't enough. maybe it's just faulty, but i'm tired of testing things and i don't have the money to buy another psu to test it in my own...

What is the best watt checking meter for high and low wattage. Accuracy is a must. Also would like a detachable face screen like the roosewill one. And price is not factor added a picture of the roosewill meter(mine was stolen)

Hello About a year ago I upgraded my system from an old 550w crapper to an EVGA 650W B5 psu. However, it;s been doing funky things recently like turning on, turning off and turning on again all on it's own. It also overheats really easily and only under moderate load. I thought it'd have enough clearance, but I guess it didn't, and now i dont trust outervisions calculator. So now I'm in the market for a new PSU (<$100 if possible), recommendations needed I also don't care if it's modular or not System specs: - RTX 2060 (OC'd) - ryzen 7 1700X (OC'd) - Asus b350 pro - 2 sticks of 8GB PNY 2666mhz ram - wd m.2 ssd - two 7.5k rpm 3.5" hard drives (can't stagger startup, they run in raid) - 5 case fans - bunch of USB 3.0 devices, plus a usb splitter

Hye guys, i need advice! for the belgian law you need an elctrical plan for the house. i learned way back in school how to make/ read one. But im a lazzy person + belgian lawmaker probably want a printed one. so my question anyone know a free program for drawing one? manny thanks alreaddy!

To my surprise this issue is non existent with how I'm trying to google it. I live in eastern washington and it's pretty cold and dry here as the default. The humidity is normally sub 30-40% and the room I'm in has a long carpet (close to like, shag, yeah... i know) These conditions seem to be causing lots of static electricity and if I interact with anything connected to my computer after walking around or something a static jolt appears to either 1. Restart the computer if it is already on and running. 2. Wake up the computer if it is hibernating (my preferred status when not using it). This happens when I adjust my seated position, leave the room and come back, move my microphone stand, etc. when i get the humidity past 30% this issue doesn't seem to occur but of course that's a bit difficult. I'm ashamed to say that despite being an electricians son I don't understand what's happening with the computer and my tiny bit of knowledge makes me think I need to somehow "ground" my pc case (it's plugged into a ground via the power cable but my guess is that the static is jolting it in a way similar to how the power button itself functions but that's a wild shot in the dark.) Does anyone know of a good way to prevent this from happening? Are there ways to ground the case? Maybe sound kind of case grounding mat? Should I buy one and put it under my chair? Currently I just make sure I touch my keylight boom pole (not connected to the computer) just before I touch my computer peripherals.

This is a long story. so just this morning i tried to plug a usb device to the back of my pc(the pc is not running, the power supply is on) then i suddenly felt something on my finger, it was the metal hinge at the back of my pc case. i then turned the psu off then unplugged it to the surge protector. hours passed and i decided to turn my computer on. it was working fine and there was no leakage. until my 1st monitor(i have 2) suddenly started losing signal. i checked to see what was wrong then i felt another leakage on the bottom of the monitor.(i don't think it's the gpu's fault since it has another monitor plugged into it and it seems to be working fine). My Pc and My 1st Monitor(the one that shocked me) are both connected to the same surge protector and that surge protector connects to a 3to2 prong adapter and i plug it into a 2 prong outlet. i know that an ungrounded outlet might be the problem i just need assurance from people here in the internet since i can't talk to other people right now(it's 2 am)im lonely and im anxious. please help. I'll add pictures so that it's easier for you guys. in the 1st picture the 2 unplugged cables are from the Monitor(the one that shocked me) and my PC. and the 2 cables that are plugged are from the Internet router and the other monitor that's working fine

(It doesn't need to be you specifically. If you know someone else, like a family member, who work in this type of field, you could ask them these questions over facebook or something and just copy//paste their answers here. I'm sure it would be interesting to you as well to know a bit more about this stuff) Preface Hi there, as part of a class at college(Mechanical assembly), I need to ask a few questions to someone who currently work in an industrial setting and whose job is to work on/with panel like these; (It doesn't absolutely need to be the jobs I mentioned, as long as your workplace has a similar panel somewhere and it is your job to work on it... A plain Circuit Breaker panel is... not enough, sorry) If there’s any such person here, would it be possible to answer a few questions and ideally post a picture of such panel at your work place with or without yourself/coworker on it? You can send it over DM if you'd prefer it not be public, doesn't need to show the face, back of head is fine. It's also not an absolute requirement for there to be someone in the picture. This little "survey" is not for posting on the internet, it's for the teacher's eyes and to "share with the class" in a few weeks. Honestly I’ve tried LinkedIn, thinking that would be THE place to find people in that field of work... Turns out nobody reads their messages on there and it’s been a few weeks. I don’t have a FB account with my real name to contact random people with either, so... Yeah... Really hoping at least one or two people here work in that field, otherwise I might need to go to Reddit *shivers*. Onto the subject I have a minimum of 5 questions and 1 task I need to ask of you. If you can, the more info the better. The MUST HAVE answers are as seen below and the "optional" one in the spoiler are similar to the must have, but a bit more specifics. As such, I would need to ask the following of you : Your full job title and type of company you work at (related to the field of electromechanics/electricity/etc.) Summary of your work function and of your workplace (at least a couple lines You can look at the Optional question if you're lacking in inspiration in what to write here). (OPTIONAL, Can be obtained on Google if needs be) A picture of your immediate work environment. Like the one I posted above. You can choose to not be present on the pic. If you'd rather it not be public, you can send it over DM. The competences, the type of education and knowledge needed to occupy that job (basically what was demanded of you on the job resume//at the interview and what you've had to do after landing the job) A brief history of your education (related to this field of work, the programs you’ve attended at College/University, if you attended any vocational schools or other courses outside of your program but related to it, etc.) The diploma you’ve received at the end of your education (College, university, vocational studies, etc...) Optional : To anyone who can answer, I thank you. I would be eternally grateful to anyone who takes the time to answer. The more answer the better. (And mods... No, this is not an AMA.)

My motherboard for some reason is emitting some sort of electrical hum, however, it is only audible when amplified via a soundboard, for example. Upon startup of the PC, the hum is more of a crackle and gradually turns into the steady hum that I am writing about. This hum is rather loud via AUDIO OUT, however, is still noticeable via AUDIO IN, especially during vocal productions., however, not as loud. I tested to make sure it was not just a case of bad IO by taking the the cord for AUDIO INPUT from my board and touching metal contacts around the motherboard, including the IO and sure enough the hum was still readily available to my dismay. The board does not shock me and it functions. No, this is not a case of ground looping, I have tested all of my equipment, PC included, on both the same power strip as well as separate connections. I have also taken a copper strand, connected it to a metal contact emitting the hum, and attached it to the aluminum case as a ground, but it still sounds the same. From what I have gathered, it is either the power supply or the board itself. Anyone one have any ideas? Thanks

Hello, I've been experiencing a weird issue for some time now since moving to my new apartement. I'll try my best to explain it as detailed and as best as possible, please bear in mind that I do not have any or atleast very little knowledge about electricity. Mainly, what I'm experiencing is overall input lag, a loss of response, slow response of my USB devices which contain mainly, keyboard and mouse, and next to that a steering wheel and pedals when racing. I'm a simracer, this is basically racing but taken a bit more seriously if I can put it like that. It's on a pretty decent level, so you can imagine that you want a good response of your inputs and most importantly consistent. Now, this is totally not the case, the sim I'm using is iRacing, first few seconds it's alright, but the more time I'm driving, the worse it gets, when I'm weaving around (flicking steering wheel left to right when driving) to test the response, it's really bad. I can just feel it being completely off and that something is limiting it from being responsive and the way it should respond considering my hardware equipment. It's hard to explain really again, but it's inconsistent, so basically every corner I get a different response, this means that I have to adapt to it every corner. Imagine it like you have to guess what will come, rather then in a normal situation, you feel from the force feedback from the wheel what is coming, and you can feel when exactly you have to turn, what grip you'll have, you get so much more information from the wheel alone. Now this aswell is not there, I can feel that this is delayed and that like I said kinda have to guess when I will have to turn in, it's as if the force feedback, the inputs of my steering wheel, pedals, are all delayed to the image that I'm seeing. This ofcourse makes driving almost impossible for me, especially after a lap or something it gets really bad and it's just as if you're using some kind of high latency TV, although that's a different delay. For me, something like that is easy to adapt to, like a wireless controller from a console, this also ofcourse has a noticeable delay, everything has delay no matter what, but this is easy to adapt to, what I'm experiencing is as if it's constantly a different response you get, and totally unpredictable. Now, again, I hope I explained this well enough, all kinds of questions or advice is welcome, I'll now advance by explaining detailedly what I'm experiencing and what I've already tried to make it any better. What are the symptoms? What have you experienced? Overall input lag, loss of mouse/keyboard response, not anywhere near of what you'd expect from a good computer, feels as if you're using an old computer. When watching a youtube video or a livestream on twitch for example, video and audio completely out of sync, get the feeling that music/audio is playing at a slower rate then what I'm used to compared to listening to it on my iPhone. I also see microstuttering in videos, so it's far from running smoothly. Overall loss of performance, just everything opening up slower and less smooth then you'd expect from a computer like this. Basically, changing any setting in windows, no matter what, from stopping certain services, to changing settings in the NVIDIA control panel, to changing settings in the BIOS all has an impact on the mouse response. Although, after a certain amount of time (few seconds in most cases), it goes back to what it was before. I always experience a noticeable ''peak'', what I like to call it. Touching my computer's case, putting my feet on the ground, in the air, putting cables further away from each other, grabbing cables next to eachother, etc... This all has an impact on the response of the USB devices. For example, I'm testing my mouse response by doing circles with my feet on the ground, now, I put my feet in the air, and I can feel for let's say 2-3 seconds that my mouse response gets a peak of a noticeably better mouse response. After these 2-3 seconds, it's back to what it was before. Now, if I put my feet back on the ground, same story. Same thing if I touch my PC, play with the cables and putting them on a different place, basically making any electrical change if that makes sense? Somebody told me to never bundle your 230V cable with any datacable (HDMI cable for example), so I tried to put them away from eachother, and to be honest I discovered the further away they are from eachother, the better. Although I have the feeling that after doing that, I feel the response is better, but no matter what after a while it's back to what it was before. Seems like any change I make makes it temporairly better, but fundamentally it still comes back and remains after a certain amount of time. If I for example open Google Chrome, and open some stuff, I can feel that it gets worse, same story when closing it, I can feel the response getting better. I have a Fanatec CSL Elite V1.1 Steering Wheel which should use only up to 180W maximum (nowhere close to that when not being used). I can feel that when I plug it in the wall, the response already getting alot worse when I didn't even turn it on. When I turn it on, it gets even more bad, especially during the boot sequence, the sequence of it turning on. Eventually when it is turned on, it's better, but still I'd say worse to what it was before. Also tried this in living room with the different PC there, connecting it only to the wall (not connected with PC by USB, only wall) so no connection with the PC, and I could feel exactly the same there. If I want a better mouse response overall, I can especially feel this after a clean install when settings are reverted to default that the response is bad again, I'd have to everywhere choose for the most performance gaining options, settings. For example in NVIDIA control panel, adjust for best performance in Windows Settings, fiddling around with drivers, stopping services I don't need, make less programs start on startup of the computer, putting the lowest settings in a game (in my case iRacing, higher settings makes it alot worse tbh). Then the mouse response gets a bit better overall if I tweak settings here and there but fundamentally really the thing is still there. When not touching my mouse, not using my computer for a few seconds, and then touching my mouse, using it and testing the response, I can feel it is better to what it was before when I was consistently using it. But after 2-3 seconds, it gets worse because I'm using the mouse. So actually, not using the computer for a while, and then testing also makes it better, but then ofcourse it gets back to what it was before by using it. I do have the feeling, and I'm almost sure that the other PC in the living room is experiencing exactly the same thing. When listening to my microphone by my headphone, I can hear a buzzing noise. When I touch my PC case, buzzing is gone. What have you tried to make it any better? What attempts did you make in order to solve this issue? I have an aluminium simracing rig, and an aluminium triple monitor stand. This ofcourse could be sensitive to static electricity, and could generate this all. This is why I went to the living room, with only 1 monitor, keyboard, mouse, and only the cables that are mandatory. Was completely the same, didn't see any improvement. I did several clean installs, now I did one again just to make sure, and it's exactly the same. So software, everything is fine, no virusses, malware or anything like that. Tried to replace my PSU and GPU, PSU was a CX750 which was bronze efficiency, GPU was an RX 480. Before I knew this could be something to do with the electricity, I thought maybe both were failing, or my GPU was not capable of doing what I was asking from it. Replaced PSU with an RM750X, and a NVIDIA RTX 2070 Super. Both were new. I maybe thought my CPU overclock could cause this all, but I fiddled around with settings alot to see maybe something was not right, I ended up running load optimized defaults and it's exactly the same thing. I saw that it had an impact on the mouse response though, overclock, no overclock for a short time, but in the end, in general, ended up being the same. Tested my SSD in the other PC here, tested the other PC's SSD in my computer, same thing. Disconnected my fan controller and WD 1TB HDD in order to see if those were maybe causing it. Used ferrite cores on my USB cables which made the mouse response more consistent but still fundamentally no changes. Used an ESD wrist strap, I tried to put the crocodile clip on several places, again, when clipping it on a metal part, I notice that famous ''peak'' for a few seconds, the mouse response getting noticeably better, and then back to what it was before really. Tried an isolation transformer, think this also helped in terms of consistency, ended up in returning it since it in the end kinda ended up in the same thing. Tested different power cables, different HDMI to DP cables, and HDMI to HDMI cables. Tested all of my 3 monitors seperately, also tested with the monitor of the other PC. Tested onboard graphics instead of using the GPU's graphics. Tested the RAM of my PC in the other PC and vice versa. Tested different USB ports. Tested without my pedals and steering wheel obviously. Tested a different power strip. Tested a different wall outlet. Tested without my AUX and microphone cable. Tested the other PC, which has exactly the same thing I believe. Also loss of mouse response when opening chrome, stuttering, inconsistent mouse response when making a change (feet in the air, on ground example, also the ''peak'' I talked about). Tested a different mouse, different keyboard. Grabbing USB cables by eachother, bundling them, making a ''ponytail'' makes it better, although in general, again, after a while it's back to what it was before. Tried to shut off all breakers, expect mine to see if maybe some kind of device was causing it all, but was exactly the same. Also tried to run my PC on a different breaker, so not the one from my room and again shutting off all the others, but no luck. ... For information, I'm situated in Belgium, Europe, where we use 230V, 50Hz. From my side, I think I tried everything I could regarding my knowledge. Only thing I could think of is maybe the motherboard or CPU failing, but I guess that these sort of things are not really symptoms you'd expect from these components. I seriously have no idea anymore, and I think it could be maybe down to the electricity. I still live with my parents, so I can't really decide something on my own. Since we're only here since January, we had to sort the electricity, so an electrician came here and had to change the power box, did alot of work there, and then weirdly enough some wall outlets including mine wasn't grounded, he ended up in grounding all the wall outlets here by extending the cables of the ones that were grounded I suppose. Now, I ofcourse hoped this could be the big fix, but unfortunately, it didn't. I also talked with him about my situation, he said that stuff like computers and aluminium rigs are very sensitive to static electricity, so he said to maybe make a seperate grounding for myself. Also, I asked him if he couldn't check the quality of the grounding maybe being poor, or checking the quality of the electricity maybe that there is some kind of loss anywhere, he answered that he didn't have the tools to do that, that the costs for them were too high for the few times he needs them. So yeah, I was kinda disappointed, it's really frustrating because I, myself have not really any clue about electricity. I did talk to a person on reddit who is an electricity engineer, like stated above, he told me to try and grab my USB cables together, and see if it was any better, and indeed. He stated that I could have a ''capacitive coupling'' problem or electrical noise. Also heard that you can test with an AM radio or something where the noise could be created from, but again, my knowledge is really small regarding electricity so I'm not gonna make any statement. I hope that you guys could maybe help me out, or atleast give me some explaination of what exactly could be causing this all, because for myself it is really a mystery and a dead end, making me quit my hobby eventually. I'd like you thank you in advance for your time and your efforts. Edit, let's not forget the specs: ASUS PRIME Z370-A G.Skill 16GB RAM 2x8GB F4-3200C16D-16GVKB Intel Core i5 8600K (currently stock) Gigabyte NVIDIA RTX 2070 Super Samsung SSD 250GB WD Blue 1TB HDD Corsair RM750X Gold Corsair H115i 2x Acer K242HQL & Acer K242HL, 24 inch 1920x1080 @60Hz Razer Blackwidow Ultimate Mechanical Keyboard Logitech G303 Mouse Fanatec CSL Elite V1.1 Wheelbase Fanatec V3 Pedals Windows 10 Pro x64

Hi, I sent this following message to the evga support: They were quick to respond with offering me a RMA to send it in so they could take a look at it. Although since I am, for what I think are quite obvious reasons, not so keen on sending away my PSU to the other side of the globe for God knows how long, I wanna hear a second opinion. Have any of you experienced anything similar? Could this just be semi normal behaviour from the PSU since it's not grounded? Thanks.

My keyboard, Corsair K70 Lux, is at random shocking me. This isnt static electricity, as the electricity flow is continuous for multiple seconds. It happens about once every other week or so. When i happens i can feel the electricity from the metal screw in the chassi. The shockes are of course not dangerous as the keyboard only pulls about 2.5w. I have tried to change the usb port on my motherboard, it still happens. It even happend once when i had the keyboard connected go a laptop. Its fortunately still under warenty and ive begun the rma process but between the retailer being unhelpful and corsair being slow af, its taking it time. I'm just curious if anyone has experience something similar, or can guess as to what the problem may be.

I know there are products to ground yourself. But I don’t want to spend extra money on something I’m just going to use once. Are there any other ways I can be safe without needing to be grounded? (Good general practices, type of flooring?, clothing? Etc) thanks

Hey everyone! So what happened to me yesterday is that my USB stick with all my work stuff on it was inside my PC while there was an electricity shutdown. Now it recognizes it as follows: I tried quite a few things, looked up in forums etc. Things I tried: Reinstalling drivers, unplugging everything, tried on another PC without success, doublechecked if the usbstor.inf was on my PC It seems to always usse usb.inf instead of usbstor.inf everytime I let it update drivers manually. Doess anybody know any other solution? I havve some stuff on there that I need and I didnt upload anything to my Onedrive for a bit of time sadly....

Hey , im having some grounding issues, my case shocks me a lot of times and i have gigantic input lag and the mouse feels floaty and i tried everything you can imagine but didn´t change the case. The case doesnt have the hd audio neither the usb conectors, im just using the front panel conectors, the standoffs seem a little funky and pc is very unstable, even with tests in aida64 and prime95. Could a case actually be a bottleneck for a pc? Since its not in good conditions. Thanks in advance. PS: Could the bad case actually affect the grounding in the whole pc?

I just upgraded to this setup last year. I have a problem related with my electricity. A bedroom with 1 air conditioner and 1 PC with 550W PSU. When starting playing Warzone or MW and another game using 100% GPU like division 2, first minutes is okay but suddenly goes down (my electricity). This is not question to be asked here. But anybody had a idea? Switch of the breakers or cable of my connector plugged from PC. 2200VA for a house is enough for people. I think to change the installation of my house electricity. Old installation and that needs a lot of money. So another thing is change the connector to plug the pc adapter

Hello all, I was just playing a game, and all of a sudden, the power cuts off for like a millisecond (due to inclement weather). I was wondering if the power supply is supposed to prevent the computer from shutting down immediately if the power cuts off for a very short period of time. thank you

Heya guys, it was last weekend when I decided to unplug my computer from the electricity because I had to move it. Two days after I was trying to boot it up like usual, I had to find out that after the mainboard logo „Republic of Gamers“ popped up on my screen, the device started looping the process from that point on. The debug-lights on the mainboard indicated in the following order: CPU light pops up for less than a second (red), DRAM light pops up for a little more than a second (orange), VGA light shines for about 2 seconds (white) and finally the boot light appears for about 6 seconds (green) until the porcess repeats itself over and over again. I already tried to put out the CMOS battery for 15 minutes and then put it back inside, tried moving the RAM sticks into different slots (also tried to boot with just one stick), checked every single power-supply-cable there is, removed the GPU from the MB and put it back in, updated the BIOS via USB flash drive etc... Also I am fully able to reach the BIOS menu (unlike other people, who had a similar problem). It would mean the world to me if anyone might had the same problem in the past and has more approaches in order to fix this. I searched almost any tech-forum there is on the internet and noone had the exact same problem like me. Side note: I changed my RAM a few weeks ago and was able to use my PC perfectly fine for more than one month. Just in case you do not fully understand something, I have to admit that I am no native english speaking person (feel free to ask!). Greetings and thanks in advance To1zZ ——————————————— My specs: ● CPU: Intel Core i7-8700K @ 6x 3.7GHz ● GPU: Palit GTX 1070 8GB ● RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3000MHz ● Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix Z370-F ● Cooler: Cooler Master Seidon 120V Version 2 Complete-Watercooling ● Power Supply: 650 Watt Cooler Master G650M Modular 80+ Bronze