Search the Community

So yeah, this is my first custom water loop build and looking for tips and if you have used those parts. Just your idea on the build. Show me da way. Taking current build and upgrading keep psu, cpu, mobo, ram. i5 7600k-32gb Gskill Trident Z-Msi Gaming 7. Current case corsair 570x wont fit top rad. New build parts. *EK **PCCG ***PLE CPU Waterblock: EK Velocity D-RGB Nickel+Acetal $135*** Case : Lian Li PC011 Dynamic $190*** Radiators : EK CoolStream SE 360 Slim $ 80** :EK Coolstream PE 360 $108* Tubing : EK TubeZMT matteblack3/8 5/8 3m $ 22*** Fittings : EK Torque STC 10/16mm black $100* : EK AF Ball vavle $ 20*** : EK AF X Splitter $ 12*** : EK CSQ plug G1/4 x4 $ 20* GPU Waterblock: EKVectorRTXRE RGB nickelAcetal $190* : EK Vector RTX Backplate $ 50* Pump/Reservoir : EK XRES 140 revoD5 RGB PWM $219*** Fans : Corsair Ll120mm 3 pack x2 $280 : Corsair commander pro $ 95 GPU : EVGA RTX 2070 Super Black $870 (all prices AUD) Havent looked at coolant yet. I know thats a lot of money for fans. Budget no issue. Looking for reliable parts. Plan is. Slim rad on side as intake. then other rad on top exhaust. then loop res>pump>gpu>rad(top)>cpu>rad(side)>res.

Need to make sure that this waterblock will fit the graphics card. EK configure wont let me check, error with photos. Gpu water will be EK Vector RTX RE RGB - Nickel + Acetal. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-vector-rtx-re-rgb-nickel-acetal and graphics card. EVGA RTX2070 Super Black 8GB GDDR6. https://www.ple.com.au/Products/636653/EVGA-RTX2070-Super-Black-8GB-GDDR6. And what about the backplate, is that universal for 2070 and 2080?

Hi guys and gals. Alright. So, ive been down with this path once before- a while back i bought an MSI 1080 8G GPU, but about a year ago i moved everything to be watercooled. Got a very nice, almost a silent system with neat OC capabilities. (my i5-7600k is running at a steady 4.8ghz + 150hz on the 1080) After watercooling i've got a nice beefy (for its size) GPU fan system standing on my shelf with no use. So, as i understand the different Nvidia GPU's assembled by the different suppliers (MSI, ASUS, Gigabyte etc. etc. [you get the idea]) are each providing with they're own take on (usually) air cooling fans to get the squeeze the maximum amount of performance out of the given card they can get. Alright, so get to the point finally: If i buy a cheap(er) blower type card and strip it down to assemble new EK blocks on it- can i expect the "same" performance as like a top tier air cooled card (with overclocking) or am i missing something one the small scale too? The core GPU card underneath of the given cooler is the same, correct? If so, then one could save actually few hundred(!) bucks comparing the cheapest blower vs top tier air cooled and applying watercooler block on it. (yes, MSI Sea Hawk is an option but where is the fun in that) Thanks! K. (my first post)

TWMC, I’ve always had really high ambient temperatures in my room during summers. It was refinished from an attic storage room, and I live in the south. I’ve tried air coolers and AiO’s to cool the CPU, but in summers, I hit around 90°C max on my CPU. I’ve decided to buy an active chiller to reduce my temps down to something more reasonable i.e. 50’s to 60’s max. I have an EK custom water cooling system on the way, but I feel like I need something actively dropping temperature below ambient to get good results. I watched the video on chilling threadripper 2, but the aquarium chiller is no longer for sale. Is there any other chiller under $300 that’s not garbage? Thanks in Advance

EK is selling several prebuilt desktop configurations that range from $1,899 to $2,699. The kicker is they come with EK's hardline liquid cooling for both the CPU and GPU, as well as a distro plate with all the RGB goodness. They offer some customization, such as upgrading the Ryzen 3600X to a 3800X, the RX 5700 to a 5700 XT, 2070 Super, or 2080 Super, and doubling the memory and storage. Source

Hi guys, I've been struggling to figure out how to control my LEDs with my case and distro block. So I have a Hue 2 from NZXT and I use it to control the 2 RGB strips and 3 120mm fans I have installed. I also use Asus aura to control the LEDs outside of my case, but I've recently purchased a Lian Li 011 Dynamic XL and the EK distro plate for them and I'm unsure how to control the 5v addressable LEDs that come with them. Should i be purchasing a new LED controller? i have about 5 RGB software programs on my PC now and I don't really fancy anymore. (on a separate note, is there a unified RGB software yet?) Edit: I don't have a 3 pin connector on my motherboard (Asus Strix B450-F), time for a new motherboard? Cheers

Hi y’all, my ek revo 5 pump is sadly not pumping my ek liquid I got. I have the 4 pin female connected to the cpu fan header. Then the molex connected to a molex connecter from my psu and it’s connected into my psu through a 4 pin cable. When I started the psu the pump spins up and turns on. It had taken it about one full reservoir full of liquid. Then I turned it off and poured more in then turned it back on and the water goes back down the tube to the pump then dosnt move. And the liquid in the res is just chilling not moving at all even tho the pump is on

Hi everyone, I built a custom loop recently but am having that pesky 55 post error... i cleared CMOS and rsetted bios multiple times, took the CMOS battery out for 15 mins, took my M2 from the on board slot and switched to the DIMM but still with no avail. No error codes from RAM, CPU, GPU till i hit HDD and gives me D7 followed by 55. SPECS: Asus zenith extreme alpha Threadripper 1920X 64 Gig G skill Aegis 3000MHZ Asus strix 2080 Ti OC edition x2 1000 W power 512 GB M2+ 1TB M2 Loop Ekwb blocks (RGB enabled)and pump Thank you for your time wishing you merry Christmas and happy holidays!

So I'm working on buying parts for my new build and decided I want to go amd both cpu and GPU (2700x and vega). I'm considering the cooling solutions atm and have some questions. I was originally going to get a D15 for the cpu. But I heard( other forms and reviews) in order to get the best xfr/precision boost a all or water cooling is recommended. Is this accurate, if so is it a noticable difference in use? Or reall just for benchmark maxing? Then I have seen from many many reviews vega is hot! ? so I was looking at the Alphacool Eiswolf 240 for vega but that seems expensive(160ish). Then I saw the EK A240R, and thought that might be good one loop gpu and cpu and less expensive than an aio and the Eiswolf combined! My question here is 2 parts 1. Is 240mm rad enough to cool both parts without going below stock performance and or maxing auto boosting( planned on a slight undervold for,both the 2700x and the vega). 2. I know vega 56 can be oced to stock vega 64 lvls, is it worth it to buy the 64? Will any oc of 64 be noticeable ( honestly havent seen many reviews where the oc was more than a couple fps, unlike the 56). Thanks!

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1070-gtx-ti-asus-rgb-nickel I wanted a rgb waterblock for the 1070ti (asus strix), but the description says only for the Asus cerebrus 1070ti and asus turbo 1070ti, so will it fit(i.e is it the same PCB or something else?) Also ekwb always recommends using only their own fluid for the cooling because they say that if anti-corrosives are absent in the liquid, then the blocks will deteriorate, so my question is whether I can use Primochill vue as a coolant.

Hi, i am wondering if you can get a monoblock that covers CPU and VRMs (but not chipset) (idealy RGB) for the ROG Maximus 12 Hero

Build log two. Build coming along nicely but slowly. Waiting on cpu and cablemod cables to arrive. Also waiting on ampere release but might run current gpu but dont want to waste tubing.... will see release date. bottom rad still to install. Then do bends and such. Keeping eye out for acetal z490 monoblock too.

Budget (including currency): Possibly $5k Country: Australia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: all i want is 4k red dead. starting my first hardline build. Previously done soft tubing in the corsair 570x. This build is hopefully going to be the epitome of builds (on a personal level) i9 10900kf Asus Maximus Hero z490 32GB G.skill trident z gold 3600Mhz RTX 2070 super until ampere comes out then will get the 3080 ti (if its called that) ek rads. PE and SE both 360mm corsair Ll120 fans, satin black tubing, gold fittings. ek cpu block. (Dunno if the z390 monoblock fits the motherboard ek quantum kinetic flt 360 res/pump black and gold sleeved cables from cable mod. all in the Lian Li pc o11 dynamic case. black and gold build.

Hey guys i have an odd question about EKs RGB blocks and their connectivity. So my motherboard does sadly not have a RGB header native, so i cannot connect any RGB Strip etc etc.... I searched for alternative controllers online and found this one: https://www.aquatuning.de/water-cooling/monitoring/controllers-accessories/19050/aquacomputer-farbwerk-usb-bluetooth-version It does support 12V RGB headers but the description sais that it has to be the same "anode". So would this controller actually work with EK RGB Blocks. Maybe someone over here has some good ideas xD. Thanks Josh

Good Day Folks -- I have a bit of a conundrum that I've been working through. I'm in the market for an upgrade to my existing system: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/newfieboy1983/saved/MNKjcf Specifically I'm looking to swap out my case, as its just too small for my needs. The issue I've been having is finding a big enough case that can top mount my rad+fans, and not interfere with the motherboard. The rad+fans are about 67mm (say 70mm), and the only cases that I've found to support a top mount for this are cases like the following. - Corsair 900D or 1000D - Cooler Master C700P - Thermaltake The Tower 900 - Thermaltake W100 Does anyone have a better suggestion? I was hoping to keep the price under $300 if possible -- but I'll do whats necessary of course. Any help is greatly appreciated. Note: At the moment I have my rad+fan front mounted on the Air 740, but it only leaves about 2 mm between the back of the rad and the GPU shroud.

My current setup: Strix X99 motherboard Strix 1080Ti AIO cooling my CPU All Noctua fans I'm looking to watercool my GPU so that it runs quieter when gaming, so I've been looking at the EK Phoenix 280 to replace my Corsair H115i and so I can waterblock the GPU. My current setup in my Enthoo case is H115i at the front with 2x 140mm fans pulling air in when the CPU gets warm. The on-board GPU fans are controlled by MSi Afterburner and I also have a couple of fans in the top of the case connected to the extra GPU headers to pull cool air in when the card needs it. + 1 regular 140mm fan exhausting at the rear of the case The mod I'd like to do to my PC is to: Fit the EK Phoenix 280 to both GPU and CPU. Front mount the Radiator to replace the H115i Reuse my current AIO fans plus the extra fans in the top of the case and make put them on the EK block in push/pull. Take the fans that come with the EK rad and put them in the top to act as low RPM airflow for the RAM and chipset (and aid in positive pressure). The question I have is how to set it so that when either the CPU and/or the GPU gets hot, the radiator fans ramp up to cool the loop. At the moment the CPU is controlled by the BIOS and GPU by MSi. Is this something that SpeedFan could do? If yes, I've seen that you can set up different Fan Controllers (under the top tab: Fan Control | Advanced Fan Control) where you can control fans based on different parameters, but if CPU temps are low and GPU high, could the low CPU temp override the high GPU and prevent the fans from spinning up? If you've done this already and it works, would you be willing to share your config and settings? Ta

I made a new loop and i am looking for advice on what to change or remove from this loop. My budget is £200 for the loop. https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/shared/oW5b5ebe11a62a7

So i just ordered all the parts for a new custom loop, however there's one thing i forgot. My plan is to use a loop that refills at the top, but i forgot to order a tube for inside the reservoir to avoid splashing. EK has the part for cheap, but i don't want to pay the international shipping fee again. Amazon has the same part, but most of the sellers charge a lot & use international shipping. Does anyone know a cheap method i can use to feed my reservoir without splashing? A part comparable to this would be great https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm

So, I just finished my rebuild of my system in order to upgrade into a much more robust (and quiet) liquid cooling setup. Everything is built and works flawlessly...except the ek cryofuel coolant that I mixed correctly (the first thing I double checked) and it immediately followed a 30hr run with primochill sysprep and a full gallon of water flush through the system (the loop is only slightly more than a liter total with a full res). Neither the sysprep nor the straight distilled water had this problem when I was running them through the loop. If I turn the system off and let it settle, the bubbles leave but come back within 15 seconds of the pump starting up. I've checked all the fittings and they're tightened and securely on the tubing. No leaks anywhere, the system doesn't lose liquid over time. The system performance is great but every now and then I can hear the pump start to grind (it's easy to tell, it's the only noise this thing makes). Never encountered this before with liquid cooling...a google search shows me that some others have had this happen but only very rarely. First pic is with the EK cryofuel and distilled, second is with sysprep and distilled.

Not sure if this has been posted yet but I think this is pretty cool. EKWBs now has a custom configuration system for finding fittings, blocks and the supplies you'll need to do your loop (hard tube or soft tube). I ran my system through there and came out with a cart full of tools and pieces totaling about $800 for a hard tube loop which is like 100 less than loop I priced out on my own. The coolest part by far is probably the fact it asks what case you have. Not so sure how much it takes this into consideration beyond just radiator mount points. I can't imagine they run that through a database that has a "res mount points" field so that might be a problem in some cases. https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/

Hey guys! So I'm in the process of upgrading my computer and the set up I'd like to go with doesn't seem to really be covered anywhere, and I'm worried about the temps. I have 3 27" 2k monitors, my main one being 144hz, and the other 2 60hz. No while all three run fine on my 1080, when I'm playing a game on my main display I notice that my 1080 will hit the high 90% usage and will get to a toasty 80-90 degrees. This makes me uncomfortable as I game a lot, and record at the same time, which means i'm hitting my CPU temps up too (Around 70-80 when full tilt). To remedy this, I'd like to add in my old 970 and have it run the 2 side monitors. This I know will probably not help my Temps... I'm adding in more power, which means my PSU will get hotter and even though nothing is running as hard there is MORE of it. Coupled with the fact the 970 is an open blower so it's not pushing the air out the back. This is where you guys come in. I don't want to go a full custom loop. I don't have the time or the money to get this set up and keep it maintained. What I would like to do is either get that NZXT bracket adapter and throw an AIO onto my 970 and expel the heat as exhaust. OR. Get one of those fancy EK Modular AIO and put my 1080 and CPU in it, leaving the 970 as an air blower (there's no GPU modular block for it as far as I can see) I know I'll need to still check both of these regularly to see if anything is up and I can't just leave it like my current air cooling set up! Thoughts?

I was wondering why would EK make a kit for 400 dollars with no GPU block in it? What is the point of buying it? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-kit-x360

A little story about my custom build Since i buy my first apartment i have dreamed of building custom desk PC for my system. I have really limited space for computer, a table is only 135cm wide on the front of the table and 127cm back. So there isn't lots of room for pc under the table and If there is big pc then there is not enough space for legs. Nowadays Deskpc is quite "regular" thing, but this is full custom build and I think that someone could be interested about this one. Custom loop stuff: EK-FB ASUS Z270/Z370 Strix RGB Monoblock - Nickel EK-FB ASUS Z270/Z370 Strix RGB Monoblock - Nickel – EK Webshop MSI GTX-1080-Ti-SEA-HAWK-EK-X GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SEA HAWK EK X | Graphics card - The world leader in display performance | MSI Global EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi (incl. sleeved pump) EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi (incl. sleeved pump) – EK Webshop EK-HDC Fitting 16mm - Nickel (6-pack) EK-HDC Fitting 16mm - Nickel (6-pack) – EK Webshop EK-HD PETG Tube 12/16mm 500mm (2pcs) EK-HD PETG Tube 12/16mm 500mm (2pcs) – EK Webshop EK-CryoFuel Blood Red EK-CryoFuel Blood Red Premix 900 mL – EK Webshop 6kpl ML120 PRO 120mm PWM Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan ML120 PRO 120mm PWM Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan 2kpl Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper X-Flow 360mm Radiator Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper X-Flow 360mm Radiator Here are some pictures First planning and modelling After planning and modelling there it is just, drill, cut, grind, weld and few other things what to do.. Raf cutting with jigsaw. and grinding.. Cutting space for knees with angle grinder And welding parts together. (I'm not a professional welder ) Test fitting with old stuff.. Paintings white and black. I planning to paint inside with pearl white, but it is regular glossy white. testing with some new stuff.. Custom EK-XRES 800 Revo D5 (Pipe is 800mm long) and threads are made with the lathe. Not sure about that light inside, this was only tested, there is much more to do if I plan to keep it inside.

So I have my water cooling setup for awhile now and cant figure out how to contol the PWM speed on the pump. I have an EK Xtop D5 PWM, and it has a PWM connector for speed control and molex for power. I cant find the option for control on the AI Suite and not sure what else to do. Anybody have the same problem?

Hi All, This project / re-build has been in the works since Xmas. My initial Build had to be disassembed due to RMA'ing one of my rads. Whilst that was happening, I got to thinking; how can I hide most of the cables? My answer was to create a Sub-Floor in the case. (i'll post parts list at the end) Being a 4U server chassis and my lack of metal working skills; I wasnt quite sure on how to do this..... So out i get some Cardboard and mock up a template... Then it was off to Bunnings (they seriously should of sponsored this build, there were so many trips there!!!) I decided on using a 1.6mm hot rolled steel sheet. Below is a pic of all the parts being sprayed - the garage was turned into a spray booth due to weather in AUS All parts were sprayed with the following paints; Primer - Dy Mark Etch Primer Coat: Dulux Epoxy Enamel (Satin Black) Top Coat: Epoxy Clear Coat I managed to spray it all using a $40 spray gun; winning!! My initial template called for my SSD's to be mounted in front of the MB (See photos) However i soon realised this wouldnt leave enough room for the Res to be installed neatly. Therefore; i decided to create an additional "level" on the mid plate for the res. This allowed me to create holders for the 3 SSD brackets; with enough clearance so that they could be removed if need be. The two sections are secured with 40mm pieces of 3/16 steel rod coated in heat-shrink to blend into the case. All rods have a locknut on either end with the top of the rod having a dome nut for asthetic reasons. I then realised i made a mistake in my plan..... how do i gain access/troubleshoot any cable issues?? I would need to create a hinged section at the front; whereby the cable runs would go. I could then cut out correctly sized holes for the GPU and MB cables. As you can see, my work isn't perfect; but hey... fabrication/metal work is not my daily job! So it was now time to assemble everything! The build would take up the entire dinning Table Night 1: I managed to get a little bit done; g this took much longer than expected. at present the elements are attached with nuts and bolts; however I'm deciding whether to rivet the parts in. The notcua fans as we know are not pretty; i've got 4 spares (from other builds) and may attempt to spray them black. All the cables used for the build have been sleeved with MDPC-X sleeving (4-10mm) depending on the item. The rads have been mounted on the brackets I created. I found a template for a 360 rad on MNPCtech. I had to modify the template to suit the EK Rad; Adobe CC to the rescue!! Honestly these brackets took blood sweat and tears from me! Two sheets of steel later and many many hours i got them 'right' Once again there not perfect, but they work! (see pic above) I allowed an extra 30mm clearance from the base; giving me the clearance for cables and the mid plate. I cut two cable management holes in either side; for fans and custom power switches. To control the fans and RGB; I'm using the aerocool fan hub. This thing is awesome!! Controls up to 5 fans and 2 RGB strips!! Link: https://www.aerocool.com.tw/us/project7/controller-p7/p7-h1 Mounting the controller is on the cards for the next night; I want to work out the best location on the base to mount. For a drain port; I have installed a BitsPower panel adaptor on the mid-plate. At present I'm probably going to just use soft-tube with EK Compression fittings (but may attempt to use fittings from the panel adaptor to drain port) This is the only soft-tube being used. The remainder will be 16mm Bits Power hard tube with Bitspower fittings. More updates to follow! Feedback and thoughts are welcomed