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So i wanted to make my front panel audio working on my pc, but there is a little bit problem, i use my old case to save budget HP DC7100CMT from 2004. Because its old i decided to check the front panel audio connector connections using a multimeter and i found something strange. some of the connector is shorted. After i check on the manual i found out the shorted connector. Front panel connector perfectly fit to the motherboard header. Pin 2 (Ground) and pin 7(FAUDIO_JD) Short Pin 5 (Line2_Right) and pin 6 (SENSE) Short pin 9 (Line3_Left) and pin 10 (SENSE) Short Mobo : Aorus B450 Elite 1. What does FAUDIO_JD and SENSE means? 2. Is this normal?

I bought a new Phanteks P400A to replace my old P400S. The old one was banged up and I wanted a white case. I have a separate Phanteks led strip in the old case and want to put that in the new one. However I can't find the connector for it and it is driving me nuts. The old case has a 4 pin connector with a nice large label on it saying "Connect this connector with Phanteks Multi-color LED strips only". I've gone through the new case multiple times but can't find a similar connector. There is a D-RGB cable, but that is for connecting to the mobo (as I understand it). Am I missing something here, the 'quick' manual seems to suggest the connector should be there. Anyone have any ideas? Added a picture of the connector in the old case and the led strip connector.

Hello there. I don't know much about powersupplies but while choosing the right one for my future build I found something that I can't seem to understand. So in the listed connectors for most powersupplies they have a 8-pin +12V Power connector (for the CPU). All clear for now. Some units however have instead of this connector a 4+4 pin EPS one or a 4+4 Pin ATX/EPS. So could someone tell me if a EPS 4+4 is going to work with a normal AM4 motherboard or do I have to find a non-EPS one. My motherboard is an Asrock B550 Phantom Gaming 4 and the power supply I plan on using is the Deepcool DQ750ST (the EPS connector one I mentioned above). Thanks in advance!

Hi guys! I'm a first time builder. I have a 2x8pin GPU and I can't for the life of me figure out which PSU connectors to use for it... DO I use the PSU to PCIE 6+2's?? If so I have one with the PSU that daisy-chained another 6+2 on it, so it's like a 2x(6+2) (it has fancy braiding around it) ... ... ... and I have two other separate PSU to PCIE cords that are individual 6+2's... (no fancy braiding). Additionally, to which PSU section would I plug in the PSU end of the cords? PCIE, PERIPHERAL, SATA, ???

what is the 4 pin looking thing below my 2 other connector on the HDD? Is it important to plug in? If so, what and where?

The question that I have / discussion that I would like to start is the following: What is the best way to move one GPU between two PCs? The goal would be to make the dis- reconnecting as fast as possible, without wearing down components that are not meant to be used this way. My current idea is to use a GPU riser to move the GPU away from the motherboard and to protect the motherboard connectors. Using some spare PSU connectors and a little bit of soldering/crafting I'd then create a separate connector for power (to protect the GPU power-connector from wear). Are there any better methods? Maybe some drive bay-hotswappable style connectors that I'm not aware of? For those wo wonder why you would want to do that, currently I regularly move between two places where in each I have a PC, one is for gaming one is for productivity, moving one single whole PC would be way too much effort, and I'm using public transport to get around which would make this very awkward. As the GPU could be used in both builds (although being bottlenecked in the productivity PC) and is for both PCs the single most expensive item I thought "hey if I can't move the whole PC how about just the GPU?", which brought me to reddit, various other forums and now this place, the GPU easily fits in a protective bag and can be transported in my backpack.

Hi, i have picked up a Palit GTX 1080 jetstream that is powered by a 6 pin and an 8 pin together (i stupidly just thought it was an 8 pin) my current psu wont support this so i am thinking about upgrading to a Corsair TX650M psu, will this contain the 8 pin and 6 pin for the gpu and the 8 pin for the motherboard, sorry im kind of new to building PCs, thanks in advance

Hello! While opening up a laptop I found some empty space and it's about the size of an SSD (plus, it has mounting screw holes). I got excited thinking I could add more storage, but I could only find a connector, which doesn't look like a sata port. I don't have experience with laptops, so can you guys tell me what the port is for? If it's sata, how can I add an SSD? The laptop model is: Lenovo Y700 15ACZ

Hello! I found a great deal on a Razer Blade 15 (2018), but it doesn't come with a charger. I searched for suitable chargers, but found out that Razer, for some reason, uses a different connector. It sort of looks like a type C connector, but it isn't. Is there any adapters, that convert regular barrel jack into that one? Normal ones are way cheaper than specific chargers, so I would be really glad if there is that kind of connector.

Hey. I just bought a Steel Battalion controller and I'm looking to see how to fix the connector on it. The cable's been cut off. I'd like to solder on a new cable but I'm at a loss for what the standard is on the other side. Can anyone help? It'd be very much appreciated.

Hi.. I am doing my first pc build and have this connector coming from the case panel. Instructions say it goes to the psu. Confused please help?

hey Guys, came across this AMD radeon Graphics card in an old PC. I have never come across the type of output connector before. Looks similar size to DVI, but the Pins are different. Can someone enlighten me and where I could find a convertor cable to output to regular DVI or HDMI? PICS ATTACHED> many thanks AS

SO I'ma first time builder. I want the PSU and the GPU to work but not sure if the PSU has the actual connector I need for the GPU. I'll attach the specs pages for both and maybe u can help. I've all ready read them and I have no clue tbh... I presume I can use a converter cord but I don't want to do that, so let me know if as-is the PSU has the correct double 8pin cord... ROG-THOR-850P (power supply) https://www.asus.com/us/Graphics-Cards-Accessories/ROG-THOR-850P/specifications/ and the GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER™ GAMING X TRIO https://us.msi.com/Graphics-card/GeForce-RTX-2080-SUPER-GAMING-X-TRIO/Specification lol

Hi everyone, I've been looking for an answer almost everywhere but it looks like a difficult question to locate in a sub category and to answer to. Long story short, I have and old Android phone, Xiaomi mi8se with cracked and broken display, everything else looks ok. I would like to re-use it, attached to a biigger screen for a project. I just can't figure out what kind of connector is used from MoBo to the touchscreen display itself and how to find a compatible one. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you very much P.S. sorry mods if it's the wrong category, couldn't really choose which was best

Im trying to a find the name for the connection on my power connector. It is very similar to IEC 7 connector. It is the same plug on both my dirt devil rechargeable vacuum and my philips norelco oneblade. https://www.dirtdevil.com/universal-750-ma-charger/AD40750C.html https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Philips-Norelco-HQ8505-Electric-Multigroom-Power-Supply/dp/B07M8W36RC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=philips+norelco+9000+charger&qid=1585939050&sr=8-4 Im trying to find a charger for my vacuum that is cheaper then $35 that dirt devil wants to charge me. I hope this is the right place to post this

So to start off with, i am feeling absolutely idiotic for doing this bought a brand new 1 TB hard-drive and cloned all my data from my old HDD to it as i was worried the old one was going to fail any moment now. Must have been something that happened when i was trying to fit or adjust the power connector, but i noticed that the SATA power port on the hard drive was giving off some shine. When i checked it with a flash light, i was horrified to see a part of the SATA power connector was broken ... like it was chipped off ! To describe in more detail, the 'elbow' of the SATA port, which stands upright, is gone along with a small part of the horizontal portion as well . I have circled the broken part with green color in the following image; Please note that this is not my hard drive, this is taken from the internet. However, it perfectly describes what i am facing right now should i be worried about the drive ? is there any danger, especially of something shorting out ? any possible electrical/electronic damage the the HDD ? I freak out when there's danger of any device failure or loss of data, so please educate me on what i should do in this situation, as all my data is on the drive right now. P.S : i realized that i feel so idiotic for not taking a picture of the broken port. Now i am too scared to fiddle with the port again, so as not to break anything further.

Hi ya'll! Didn't even realize LTT had a whole website, fake fan apparently, anyways! I was working on my laptop, it had some preexisting issues and whilst gaming it suddenly powered off and wouldn't stay on for longer than 10 - 12 seconds. After leaving it alone for a couple of days I wanted to get back to it and just figure out what was wrong with it, made sure it didn't have any power left in it. Had everything disconnected, took the RAM off, battery out, you name it and I did it, however when hooking up the battery again, I saw a bright blue/yellowish spark/flash.. After this I've been hearing a 'ticking' sound coming from both my laptop & the charger and when I plug it up to the charger there's no lights coming on, ASUS wants to take a look at it but is charging me $80 upfront and the repair might top out at $300+. Given the current state of our beautiful country I've not been able to work for a good couple of weeks, now I'd love to know what I should attempt next. Is my mobo fried? Could it be the charger? Help or advice would be appreciated!

The title is my main question.

I received an old Lenovo AIO M72z for free. I'm trying to build a very cheap but decent pc out of it. My problem is the lack of PCI slots. As seen in the attached picture of the board, there is a riser port that usually connects to 4 USB 2.0 ports, one ethernet port, and a display port. Does anyone know what type of connector that is? On the mobo it only says riser. I was wondering whether I could connect a USB 3 expansion card or even a GPU to it if there was some kind of adapter. I also wanted to upgrade the CPU. The best CPU in the original M72z lineup was an i7 3770s (65 watts), because the original PSU only delivered 125 watts. If I use a 24pin to 14pin adapter to replace the PSU with a 430 watt PSU, would a regular i7 3770 (95 watt) work without any problems or could there be an issue with the bios?

So my Motherboard has only one 4 pin cpu connector as it is a low profile one but i was wondering if i could use any of the two 4+4 connectors as they are separate and fits in the socket. However, only one connector has same pattern as the one in the motherboard (just like left connector in the photo) I want to use the next one because i am getting red indication in 5v voltage in bios (kinda like that in the picture but it's for 5v voltage only) when i use the connector of same pin shape but when i switch to next connector it no longer shows red Is it safe?? is psu change needed? I have i5 3470 with Rx 570 4GB powered by 550w 80+ Bronze PSU so it's not like my psu is low profile or anything i hope you understood what i'm trying to say i don't know english

I have a Lenovo Y50-70 laptop that has not been registering the battery for a while now. Just opened it up to have a look and the batteries connection to the motherboard, specifically 1 of the pins plastic, had melted, covering one of the battery side pins in plastic and the motherboards side only slightly. What are my options here? Can the pin connector cable be replaced on the battery for cheaper than buying a new battery? Does the small bit of plastic on the motherboards pin need to be removed? Cheers for the help.

For nearly 20 years now, we've been using that 20/24-pin power plug with a thick bundle of wires like it's just part of life, but as density becomes more relevant, cable management strategies for the current generation dictate that the ATX plug is OBSOLETE! It's bad enough that it lands in a 2-inch (50mm+) connector, but the thick, massive bundle of weak, low-power wires are too painful to configure, rearrange, or design for as it takes up increasingly precious space in all parts of the system. And all of that bulk for a mere EIGHT signals (or 9 depending on system design) to go from the PSU to the mainboard! Four of those eight are primary power; +12v, +5v, +3.3v, and Ground. Two others are +5VSB (Standby) and an oddly specific -12v. The remaining 2 signals are PS-ON and PWR-Good. ATX NEEDS TO DIE!!! Just short of redesigning existing boards entirely to use smaller, more compact connectors, I recommend a vertical right-angle adapter (or continuous vertical for larger systems) to re-route the 4 main power signals as converged rails on their own, singular wire(s) of a larger gauge. For example, the five +5v wires can be combined to run on a single line, reducing the wire count by x4. Accounting for national electrical safety standards, and the allotment of current to each voltage, here are the wire sizes that would be appropriate for each line: +3.3v: 12-10AWG (15-25 Amps) Copper, Aluminum, or CCA (copper-clad aluminum) +5v: 10AWG CCA <30 Amps / 12AWG Copper ~20 Amps +12v: 12AWG (10-20 Amps) Copper or CCA--- **EPS 12v Spec 2.92 states that common 12v connections should not exceed 240VA per rail** GND 10AWG (~30 Amps, current varies) Copper or CCA; 12AWG may be used at engineer's discretion. The remaining signals specified below shall remain 18AWG size, but should be fitted with their own, alternate connection in a smaller package to save board space and simplify a new wire harness design. -12v _ +5VSB _ PS/ON _ PS/GD I'm still working on how to re-fit the low-power and signal-only wires, but in the meantime, this is a prototype of what my idea would look like: As you can see, I've converted the old 24-pin ATX connection into a right-angle cable assembly/adapter and modified the layout by recombining the cluster of 19 power wires, grouped by color-coded voltage, into a converged set of rails which terminate inside a 4-prong Molex Multicat connector; 2018400040. Click to open the hidden comment above to know why I chose this connector and how I managed to use it. Great... I have a concept demonstration... Now what? Well... Several problems. First off, the connection via ATX is still too big! Second, with that added non-standard Multicat plug, I'll have to make another custom cable like this, and possibly an extension to go between the two, using the new connector (yes, Multicat is actually a new model by Molex ~2016-2018) all to showcase ATX pumping energy across 4x 12-10AWG wires for this grand idea I came up with! And third, with that awful ATX form being so widely adopted, this would be highly impractical for most end users, who likely don't have the high density or cable management problem that this is meant to solve! Okay, maybe end users could see some level of benefit if some conditions are met. For a regular consumer to need this, the situation would be sort of like this: - Add or replace components inside PC fairly often (more than once every 2 months) - Space limitations inside system for moving or accessing components -- Airflow problem due to bad cable design or bulky cabling - Motherboard shape, size, or layout will never change (this is a big one; I'm looking at you, Linus!) - Cable too long or too short (especially a problem with "modular" cables) - Just wishing your PSU could have been better thought out, and put the bulky stuff somewhere else With that in mind, this modification is really intended for servers, specifically 2U size like the one I have and am working on. **Side note, 1U is completely useless, 2U needs serious work in every aspect (most designs are HORRIBLY flawed), and 3U and larger are pretty much open-box assemblies that can be abused and re-worked like regular desktop cases. The thing is, servers aren't technically that different from regular computers, except for one important thing; density. Moreover, power cores in servers tend to be much more modular in a very literal sense-- so much to the point that any experienced technician (or serious power geek) could re-purpose a bar module like the DPS-450 or the 1K28P for almost anything quickly and easily, and make use of all the potential current specified by the nameplate capacity through a single massive blade surface. Something that you can't do with most ATX PSU's. That's why there are so many adapters for CRPS-based modules to use them for bitcoin mining and GPU mods. So what's the point? Modularity and density. You can't change the connector on the motherboard without an expensive redesign, but that's where this connector prototype comes in... - "but you said you need another one like this to connect to the power supply. where's the point in that?" This is where it gets interesting... Server power cores are more modular than you think. Based on pinouts of the ends of server power modules from several company designs and references from hobbyists who modded server modules, they aren't really proprietary, except in shape, and still follow enough of the ATX/EPS standard that they can be re-used in newer system designs, or accommodate other purposes. Technologically and financially, this makes sense for the developers and engineers since all they have to do to continue using a module from 10+ years ago (if it even physically fits, still*) for example, is modify parts of the design of the power distributor. Leave the important control circuity for monitoring and redundancy, but change the shape of the output! That's all a power distributor is; a redundancy component with a set of connectors to match the shape of those on the target board! After all, symmetrical cable assemblies are faster, cheaper, and easier to build than proprietary ones. Why do you think they stopped making as many systems as there used to be with proprietary power wiring? 2 reasons; ATX standards/compatibility, and cost savings. That's why. Therefore, it would be plenty reasonable to imagine a slight modification to power distributors, a relatively cheap part, to use fewer wires of a larger gauge for power delivery! The remaining signal wires can be small and cheap still, using a smaller connection for itself as well... Although I'm not sure I'd professionally use Multicat as my connector type for the PCB side or for singular individual wires across 12AWG for everything-- I'm honestly leaning towards Molex's MegaFit connector type for the final cable assembly design. MegaFit has a slightly more compact size and familiar square shape, but Multicat happens to have the advantage of being great for high-current lines and prototype cables like this one as the terminals are big enough to handle that hideous bundle of BLACK from the ground line; seriously, 8 wires for one rail??? WHY????? Even though these are all 18AWG wires, it was a pain in the A$$ squishing 8 of them together at once and getting them to fit properly in a terminal that was designed for 10-8AWG wires!!! I couldn't imagine making this prototype cable with MegaFit terminals, designed for a maximum of 12AWG... So, for the sake of this project, THANK YOU MULTICAT! **Don't worry MegaFit, you'll shine soon enough** Epilogue: I'm still trying to decide on a new shape for those last 4 signal wires, but I have 2 candidates so far for what I could use... Here's what I think would be best for the signals with very little energy: Connector option A: Molex CP 3.3 Wire-to-wire (useful for a cable harness, but not for board connection as no PCB header is available) - Parts 5046930402 & 5046940402 Connector option B: Molex SL Wire/Crimp connectors (prime choice for wire-to-board connection; parts available for wire harnesses and PCB headers) - Parts 50579404, 701070003, & 705430038 Leave a comment and vote for which of these parts would work best for the signal-only wires and why. Also let me know if you have other ideas for what part should be used to connect the last 4 signal wires. For reference, the signals can be connected with any wire size ranging from 22-16AWG, so if you think you can find something better than what I mentioned, go crazy!

Hey, I got another problem with my new PC build: On my motherboard there are two connectors: 1x 8-Pin and 1x 4-Pin Connector. I only got a cable which is split into 2x 4-Pin-cables. How do I have to plug the cables in? I got a Ryzen 7 3700X with 65W TDP. Thanks for your help and merry Christmas everyone!

So my motherboard only has two slots for fan connections and I am in need of a connector that I can connect multiple fans to. There are two options one uses the molex pins to 4pin fan connectors and the other uses the CPU fan header to 4pin fan connectors. Idk what should I choose. Any help would be appreciated

I have a Corsair RM650 and am wanting to upgrade from my FX-8350 to the 2990wx. The motherboard I am looking at (the MEG creation) has 2x 4+4 CPU connectors. My PSU at the back has 3 identical ports labelled "6+2 PCI-E & 4+4 CPU" but has no indication as to which is which. The total usage of my system (250W for CPU + 200W for GPU) means I will not necessarily need an upgraded PSU for power consumption alone. My question is can I plug a second 4+4 CPU cable into one of those ports to go to the motherboard? I currently have 1 spare as my Strix 970 only uses 1. I also tried the connectors and they both fit in each of the 3 ports on the PSU, making me feel like another CPU power cable can go in there! Also secondly, can I run the CPU at stock settings with just 1 CPU power connector into the motherboard until I order another CPU power cable if I need to at all? I will not be manually overclocking because I want the increased single core performance from PB and PBO. Thanks in advance