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Showing results for tags 'air'.
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im wondering if i need a radiator for my build ryzen 5 2600x msi b450 tomahawk max evga geforce rtx 2060 ko ultra gaming phanteks p350x 3 rosewill hyperborea 89.5 cfm pwm 140mm(2 in front, 1 on top, default case fan at rear) if u think i need a radiator, pls reccomend me one how much does a radiator improve temperatures?
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i want to get a i5 7600k but i dont know how to find a good cheap air cooler, i want one that is quiet but i dont know where to look.
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Sup guys, first post on LTT forums but I have a little question regarding my Antec Lanboy Air. I just got one NEW for really cheap. (~100$) and I want to mount my Corsair H115i rgb with 140mm fans, but i heart the antec only supports 120mm fans. Is it possible to use an adapter like the bitspower 140 to 120mm adapter for this? HERE . Would be awesome if you guys know any solution for this. Cheers, Tom
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I have some concerns about my Noctua NH-D15. Firstly, the (complete) rig came with a slight sag of the heatpipe which is kind of annoying but I checked it and it's correctly mounted and my CPUs temperature never went above 71 C° even after hours of gameplay so even as an amateur I think it doesn't affect the performance. (But I would take any advice or suggestions you Pros can give me!) Secondly, they couldn't fit the fans on the regular way (right side of the heatpipe) because of the Corsair Vengeance LPX Rams. And I'm worried if it's gonna damage the heatpipe by not getting cooled from a fan. I do have 3 stock fans at the front of my case (Deepcool Matrex 55) but it's still not direct cool air. Just intake as far as I know. I would appreciate any soothing words (as far as they're true lol) !!! Thank you all in advance! I include some pictures of the sag and of the complete rig.
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After finishing my build last night, I have been tinkering with fan controls for over 4+ hours. NZXT cam software is just so crap that it's preloaded files can't even match its settings. I have connected all the fans (wishing I did not) to the smart device v2, hoping to get a decent low noise case. I have slight tinnitus in my left ear so it gets irritating after a while unless I use headphones on low volume, even then still hearing the noise of the fans ramping up on full load. Even with settings on most triple AAA games i.e. cod, war thunder, cs:go, apex legends on medium to high the thing sounds like a jet. So disappointing I didn't go with quieter setup. I had my eyes on a be quiet! dark rock pro 4 cpu cooler (sold out in Australia and in stock on the 12th of this month, but I jumped the gun and went with kraken x62. Now I'm possibly thinking of pulling all hardware from the case, installing be quiet fans and cpu cooler to replace aio, then drop it into a be quiet 500 case. Anyone know if all NZXT hardware is like this? I've tinkered with both the cam, mobo fans and different fan headers for hours on end. On idle, fans are decent, but as soon as some application is loaded or game starts, thing is like a jet taking off. Honestly, wish I didn't jump headlong and had waited for the restock. There goes another $400. There's always the ugly side to PC building. Wish I didn't order these parts at 3am half asleep. What I'm thinking of installing: https://www.pccasegear.com/products/42365/be-quiet-dark-rock-pro-4-cooler https://www.pccasegear.com/products/37642/be-quiet-silent-wings-3-120mm-pwm-fan https://www.pccasegear.com/products/37641/be-quiet-silent-wings-3-140mm-pwm-fan https://www.pccasegear.com/products/48066/be-quiet-pure-base-500-tg-case-black Specs MSI Gaming Edge Wifi Ryzen 3700x 5700xt XFX Thicc III 8gb 3200 cl16 Corsair vengeance 2x8 Cooler master V750 NZXT h510 elite Aer rgb 2 fans smart device v2 rear 120mm default h510 elite fan top: 140mm default h510 elite fan x62 280mm aio
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I just built my first gaming pc since ~2007 (I use a Mac / Xbox normally) and a lot has changed. my motherboard (Asus X570-E) came with a thermistor temp sensor but most of the hardware already has built in temp sensors, so I thought it might be useful to have this one measuring the temp of the incoming ambient air. the cable is only like 6-8” long and there weren’t a lot of mounting options so I mounted it in one of the cable channels behind the bottom intake fan of a Phanteks Evolv X (see pic). Q: This may be a really dumb question, but does anyone know for sure that the placement won’t affect the readings? my instinct is that the temp is the temp and whether the air is moving or not doesn’t make a difference to a sensor but I wanted to make sure and didn’t find anything searching google/YouTube. thanks! P.S. now that I see that picture it’s bugging me that the logo is sideways. Come on Phanteks!
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Dear fellow users of this blog, Would you please mind helping me out with an issue I currently have? So, I have Razer Blade Late 2016 model. All of a sudden my fans stop working the way they should. They constantly spin at the same rate. What ever i tried didn't help. I tried reinstalling Windows several times. I also tried resetting BIOS to its default settings. I even searched for ACPI Fan drivers which I didn't find, probably as they are Microsoft drivers. Does anybody have any idea that might help me? Feel free to type it down below! Sincerely
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So I have a custom loop in my system that consists of an EK Velocity CPU block, an EK GPU block, 2 x 240mm radiators, and an EK X-RES 140 pump/res combo. This is all in a Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow case. When I put the loop together, I bled it for 24 hours and the air was gone. For some reason though, as more time goes by, air seems to keep getting into my radiators. When I start up the system and the pump spins up, a large amount of air bubbles get pushed into the reservoir from the front rad and float to the top. There are no leaks from any of the fittings, and I have the anti-vortex EK insert in the reservoir. Can anyone help me figure out why air keeps getting pushed into my radiators? Thank you
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Hello, i am looking for a fairly small flat case like the Node 202 or the Dr Zaber, however i need the air to be in the front as well (going to be in a fair tight space) as to give it enough air flow. What are some suggestions?
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Hi all, I will be building a new PC after Christmas with the 3970x, 8x8GB 3000 DDR4 and an Aorus Master. I have seen online in many places that air coolers like the Cooler Master Wraith Ripper (and I'm guessing the Arctic Freezer 50 TR) are completely inadequate in cooling the 3970x and that I need to get at least a 240 rad. Is this true? I would prefer to pay less than £150 for the cooler but if I need to spend more I will do. I just have no idea which sTRX40 water cooler to get!! -
This is my first attempt at an install of not only a motherboard, but also a CPU. After getting it all set up, I opened up Speccy to see how the temps were, and it's reading 75-85 on idle. (I read 91 at one point) Since this is my first attempt at something like this, not exactly sure where to begin troubleshooting. What I know so far: 1. I applied a generous amount of thermal paste, so I don't think the problem lies there. (More specifically, what I assume is the paste that comes already on the cooler, in addition to some third party thermal paste on top of that.) 2. I struggled a bit get the CPU cooler on, but all the screws I believe are tightened down all the way. 3. System door is open, so air intake shouldn't be a problem. 4. I am using the stock AMD cooler that comes with the Ryzen 7 2700. 5. All my fans are running at max with the fan speed options on my Stormtrooper Coolermaster case. If anyone could help me with this i'd be very grateful.
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Noticed the Corsair Cooling Hydro H115i PRO RGB on sale for 99€ because of Black Friday, but can't decide whether I should pick it or the Noctua NH-D15 for 109€. Whats the best choice for my system? And if liquid cooling whats the best config to run? What are the cons and pros for both? How about some good alternatives like Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black? System: Lian Li pc o-11 dynamic with three Noctua NF-F12 PWM chromax.black.swap mounted on the side Asus Rog Strix x470-F Gaming Asus Rog Strix 2080 super Ryzen 7 3700X with stock cooler (this thing is pretty loud and annoying during temp spikes) G.skill Trident Z Neo 3600MHz CL16 PSU EVGA SuperNOVA G3 750 W Thanks everyone in advance
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I'm willing to buy fans from UpHere that have A-RGBs in them, and will be installing them on a ASUS ROG X570-E motherboard which has A-RGB Gen2 Connectors. So will these A-RGB fans work on them? Or will I have some issues? And whats the difference between A-RGB Gen1 and Gen2?
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hello. Help on decide which is one Noctua Air Cooling for 3900x / 3950x The noctuas will by installed inside a Meshify C 170mm clearance. I would love to have Chromax to build a black theme. If not possible due to the low options on chromax line i will stick with normal ones. NH-U12A 100% Ram clearance NH-D15S NH-D15 (this ones have both chromax and normals) I am afraid of the biggest one because the Ram Clearance. Ram will be G.Skill TridentZ 3200Mhz CL4 Any toughts about it? Cheers.
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I'm wondering if i can reuse my old MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2011)'s ssd in my custom built PC. I know its a different m.2 key that whats probably on my motherboard, what kind of adapter would i need to get for this? Thanks in advance,
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Please suggest me which will provide better cooling(Don't care about noise) among them Lanshuo 90mm dual tower or Snowman 120mm single tower Or Chiptronex Diffuser X5001. 6 heatpipe, 2 Fan(2x90mm), 2 towers (can't add 3 fans because my motherboard/RAM/Case wont let me)https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32986572385.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.777d3c00XhG20w&mp=12. 6 heatpipe, 2 Fan(2x120mm), single towershttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/32960406803.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.51bc26f7i5H5vQ&algo_pvid=28a7c118-2c4c-4d36-bc47-e55926126bcb&algo_expid=28a7c118-2c4c-4d36-bc47-e55926126bcb-3&btsid=4db0a52d-0397-4a52-8058-717438d20f23&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_53 3. 5 heatpipe, 1 Fan(1X 120mm can add an extra cheap 120mm fan I could find), single tower CHIPTRONEX Diffuser X500 RGB CPU Cooler with 5 Copper Heat Pipes(Black) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07D2F4QYX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-P-PDbX5TYR0V I have an old i5-4590 on a Biostar H81MLV3 with 8GB 1600 DDR3 sole stick and a Red Devil RX580 8GB I’m saving up money to buy 4th gen Ryzen 5 4600 when it gets released or 3600 if prices went highreason for upgrading forms tick cooler on i5-4590 is bcoz India is too hot and my when I play games my CPU teams are around 80-85C so thought of getting a cheap cooler($25-$30) that would be better than stock
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what do you think about having higher temps for the sake of looks. reason to save money, or just don't care. seems like there lots of people that pick bad air flow cases over looks or just didn't no it was a bad case. the people that complaint that your pc runs 3 degrees hotter should you care ? and why. how long do you want your pc to last? are we at a point were are pc are so powerful that it will be still a good pc10+ years form now and heck may even be a good gaming pc? how long do you go till upgrading? do you build he best pc that money can buy (or makes scene) or do you build a budget build that you upgrade over time or in a few years or build a new pc in a few years. do you think about what you can sell your stuff for a few years form now or 10 years form now or don't care. most pc's can last at least 10 years but will it be even be usable or even care about it in 10 years anyway or do you build your pc to get the temps as low as possible so it will last longer. what i think: as long as the games i play don't lag i don't really care about resolution. and as of late i mostly just watch people play games on youtube then play them myself. if games didn't have micro transactions or pay to win i would care more about playing. i mostly play mindcraft, diablo 2, no man sky, but there are a lot of old games that are good, cheap and fun to play that i have not played like borderlands or skyrim or titans quest haha. maybe your in the same bot and put off building an epic build for gaming and just build for looks and fun like me. Plz Moderators don't move this post for at lest a week. once it gets moved the Discussion stops! this is supposed to be a community Discussion forms! grammar nazi's plz don't post!
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I just purchased the following components for my build.Ryzen 9 3900xX570 AORUS ELITEG.SKILL Trident Z Royal Series 16GB - 3600 Mhz CAS 16Samsung 970 EVO Plus EVGA 1000 GQ, 80+ Gold RTX 2080 SuperThermaltake Thermaltake Core P3I know Ryzen 9 comes with its prism cooler, is it sufficient? No i wont be overclocking at all and not doing 5 hours of benchmarking crap, i do stream on twitch and play some light weight games. I would like to keep the NOISE level to bare minimum so that is why i am concerned about the prism cooler.As you can see my case is OPEN AIR. If the cpu is going to idle at high and the prism is loud, i will be annoyed since my mic will capture the fan noise. I am willing to invest in a cooler that is stylish for my case and is very quite and reliable. Again im not going to OC this, i just want cooler temps and quite performance. I did look at this deal on amazon: DEEPCOOL Castle 360 RGB for $159.I havnt heard this name brand and not sure how legit this is. Compared to the other 360mm coolers this seems half price. Any comments?
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Hey guyz.. I wanna know which cooler is better .. cooler master v8 or masterair ma410p? V8 is for 22$ Masterair is for 25$ And also wanna mention i wanna overclock my x5670 to atleast 4.4 ghz
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Yo guys just got myself a Ryzen 9 3900x CPU a couple of weeks ago and I've been looking at its temperature these days. I know AMD usually has it's reputation for being really heaty and stuff but I want to be sure. Temps that I've been following: Idle: 50-60°C Ingame (League of Legends): 60-70°C, sometimes over 70°C I'm using the stock AMD CPU cooler that came together with the Ryzen 9 3900x which I recently heard isn't one of the best. Other things I can think of a reason for the heat is maybe changing the thermal paste with a better one. I've been thinking of getting a liquid cooler as I'm using a Mid-Tower NZXT H500i which doesn't have really good airflow. Do you guys think switching to Liquid cooling will be better or should I get a new, better air CPU cooler and maybe add a few fans to the front of the PC case? Will appreciate any ideas/opinions!
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Hello ! I would like to know if this kind of damage would make this cpu cooler unusable . It was damaged in shipping and i am afraid after instaling it not to damage some other more expensive components . Are there gases or liquids in the heat pipes? Or a mixture of both as i read a bit today about air coolers . Do any of you know how to remedy this ? Cheers !
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Hi all , My actual rig is way to big and it bothers me so I bought a louqe case with small tophat. I have a dilemma between air-cooling and liquid cooling, I have a nh d-15 in the rig I'm using . I overclocked my i5 7600k to 5ghz so heat isn't a problem. I plan to keep the overclock but don't know if it will work on the louqe case with the nh L-12 if I stay air-cooled - I plan to have 2 ,120*15 mm fan's on the bottom as intake. I don't mind lowering to 4.5-4.7 if It means I can stay with air-cooling . The think about liquid cooling is I just don't want to end up throwing away the hole cooler cause the water is empty or air bubble noise or dead pump in a long run.
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So i have a FX-6300 and noticed something is odd. My cpu idle temps were 15°C and at first I was suprised and relaxed about it. But then when i stress tested it (3,5 GHz), the temps were around 20-25°C. So I decided to overclock it to 3,9 GHz and do the stress test again. This time it was around 35-40°C and I was kinda worried. Is it possible that the temps are wrong and something is malfunctioning because this is too cool for a overclocked CPU. I use a mid tier Air Cooler.
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Hi! My H500P Mesh just arrived and as I am transplanting all the components into the new case, I was wondering where and if at all I should put some of my old fans I have. These would be 2 be quiet! Pure Wings 2 120mm. Spare place is only at the top, but I was wondering if I should put them as intake or outtake, or at all. Dust is quite a problem here, so I think creating negative air pressure could be bad. Would be cool to get suggestions soon, as I will continue building in a bit cheers
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Sources - Engadget https://www.engadget.com/2019/07/09/apple-killed-the-12-inch-macbook/ https://www.engadget.com/2019/07/09/apple-macbook-air-macbook-pro-updates/ Okay, so the title may have been a little click-baity, however - in a sense, it's not wrong. Today, Apple announced to Engadget (and other Tech News sources - most likely), that they have killed off the MacBook 12", MacBook Pro without Touch Bar and discounted the MacBook Air. So that's a lot, let's start at number 1. MacBook 12" Gone, Dead, Kapoot. It was controversial at the time, with only 1 USB-C port and very lackluster internals - however, it set the steppings stones for Apples next generations of machines. However, as many have pointed out (I've been thinking about this myself), but since the release of the refreshed MacBook Air, this machine made very little sense. The MacBook Air was almost the same size, almost the same price, and while it still had very lack-luster performance, it still beat the MacBook 12". Number 2 - The MacBook Pro Here is the click bait I did say in the title - which however can be interpreted as true depending on your point of view since that's exactly what happened. Apple has stopped selling the MacBook Pro without the Touch Bar while also buffing the specs of the base MacBook Pro. It seems like Apple are finally considering what "might" be considered pro - for 4 years ago... There is finally a Quad-Core i5 (8th Generation) and optional i7 (Quad/Hexa?) The Touch bar has been added as standard, so no more dedicated function keys. You're getting a laptop with a T2 Chip and You're Going to like it... However, the rest of the internals don't really change - and nor does the price. 13" MacBook Pro with 2 Thunderbolt 3 Ports & 8GB of RAM starts at $1299 ($1199 for Students). MacBook Air News. There's not a whole lot to talk about with this one. It's mainly just the introduction of a TrueTone display and a price cut. The Machine now started at $1099 ($999 for students). No hardware updates/downgrades. That's pretty much it. My Thoughts? Phew, that was a long article of combining 2 into 1. Let's start at the top. MacBook 12" I'm not surprised that it has gone the way of the dinosaurs (as I mentioned in its little sub-section). It was outclassed by the MacBook Air and had no real place left in Apple's Line-up and eco-system. MacBook Pro (Non-Touch-Bar Death) It kind of annoys me that Apple are doing away with physical Function keys, however, I guess it could be seen as good since having the Touch Bar means AppleID, so could be more secure for individuals and businesses. Also, the increase in performance (from the processor side is nice). MacBook Air About time they lowered the price. It was really expensive at its launch price since it was nipping at the heals of the MacBook Pro base model, so it's a welcome surprise that Apple has done this. Plus the introduction of TureTone is not unwelcome. So, meh, but not bad Apple. Your Thoughts? Please Leave them Down Below.
