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Showing results for tags 'adapter'.
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So we just bought a Samsung Curved Oled G8 recently and ran into an issue. It only came with a Mini Display port to display port cord. This cord works absolutely fine with our pc BUT, the xbox has an hdmi not DP. Our issue is trying to find a compatible cord that will connect the Xbox Series S to the monitor. We've already tried a Micro hdmi to hdmi cord and that didn't work, we tried a few adapters and those didn't work (though one worked with our blu-ray player and so we have that working now which is strange). I tried micro Hdmi to Hdmi, I tried Hdmi to Usb-c, I tried hdmi to mini-display port, but not of them worked for the xbox. Does anyone have a specific brand or cord that they've used that's worked so far for them? I would really, really appreciate any help on this situation so we can get my roommate's setup working properly again. If anyone has used a cord or adapter that works please drop what it is and where you got it from so I can look into it. Thank you very much. -
I have a HP prebuilt, I wanted to install an additional SSD, I have an open PCIe x1 slot, so I bought a PCIe x1 to m.2 adapter but I can't see the drive in an OS. In BIOS hardware diagnostic, the drive appears and passes the tests, but in a OS (Windows 10 or Linux) the drive is not recognized. Additionally, when booting it takes a really long time (3-4 min) to get to the bootloader. When disabling the PCIe x1 slot (where the adapter and SSD are) it boots immediately. Any idea what is going on? SSD: Intel 660p Adapter: RYRA 1pc NVMe PCIe M.2 NGFF SSD To PCI-E X1 Adapter Motherboard: Baker 8767
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Hello, My parents have bought a 8k TV. Now they want to see the diffrence. My Laptop only has a HDMI 2.0b and DP 1.4 via usb c. Is There some way to get an adapter? I would also accept something like Displaystream 1.2. Greets William
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I bought two 3.5mm to 6.35mm audio jack converter for my M-Audio soundcard, suddenly one of my converter go bad. When I plugged in the jack fully the sound is like sh*t and mono but when I pulled the jack a bit the sound go normal and when I touched it a bit the sound go off again. But I often unplugged and plugged it. After I swapped with another one, it works fine
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HI, I recently bought an Asus VivoBook K513EA laptop, I saw that it is possible to add an SSD or HDD via a 10-pin adapter to SATA interface (the laptop comes with a 256Gb M.2 drive). Given the difficulty of finding this piece in my country, and buying online is not an option (thanks to the pandemic and government corruption, we no longer have a state postal company) I found an adapter (10 pins) but it indicates compatibility with Lenovo, HP and Huawei Matebook, does not mention anything from Asus. Maybe someone knows if this part is universally compatible? Sorry my bad english
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Hey guys. In short, I want to connect my air pods to my pc, however the Bluetooth option is not showing up. I am using a tp-link Archer TX50E adapter for Bluetooth. Upon checking the device manager, the "Generic Bluetooth Adapter" driver does not work. Under "Generic Bluetooth Adapter > Properties > Device status" it reads this: "Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43)." I've tried uninstalling the driver and then scanning for hardware changes to re-install it, but no luck no matter how many times I do it. I've tried updating it, no luck. I've tried physically taking out and reinstalling my adapter. Nothing. I feel like I've tried everything that I can find by googling for answers and still, nothing works. What can I do? Here's the longer version of the story for those who want more detail: I built this pc probably around 5-6 years ago, so its not exactly new. About a year ago, I got air pods as well as a small ASUS USB adapter for my pc for them to work. I had a pretty bad experience with that adapter. I barely got it working in the first place through sheer will and frustration. After that, I decided to not mess with it anymore. However, it was still tedious to deal with from time to time, so instead I decided to get a tp-link Archer TX50E, a Wi-Fi and Bluetooth adapter combo that connects through a PCIe port. The Bluetooth feature works by connecting it to a USB pin header on the motherboard via a wire. It was plug-and-play and it worked perfectly with no problems for about half a year. However, a few days ago, long story short, I messed up my PC and had to wipe my SSD and reinstall Windows 10. Despite using the same adapter, the Bluetooth feature no longer works, though the Wi-Fi connectivity does. I suspect after messing around with my previous ASUS USB adapter, it somehow allowed the new adapter to work as well through some setting or download I had done previously? Regardless, the fact that the new adapter used to work before with no problem but doesn't work now on a clean drive seems to indicate that it isn't a hardware issue. Here's the thing as well, I could've sworn I saw two separate drivers on the device manager before I wiped my SSD, and upon seeing YouTube videos of people showing their device manager, it shows a different Bluetooth driver called "Intel Wireless Bluetooth" instead of "Generic Bluetooth adapter" which I think I had before I wiped my SSD. I tried installing such a driver from the intel website, but no luck, it still keeps the old one. I'm not sure if I just didn't install it correctly, or if I got the right one, or what. I even tried using the CD that came with the adapter to download drivers through there, despite the fact that I didn't need to use it for it to work before, still nothing. So I'm stuck, and sheer will and frustration doesn't seem to be working this time around. Thank you for reading. Feel free to ask questions. Any help would be appreciated.
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Hi all, Was wondering if I could pick the brains on this forum about 1.8” Micro SATA SSDs… Recently completed a buyback from a customer who had Dell blades with 1.8” SSDs. This format doesn’t seem to be particularly popular in the enterprise world, so I’ve tried using a few adaptors/converters on eBay but the performance is woeful…talking 500kilobytes a second (write/read). Which is at odds with 6G SATA! The ideal solution would be to mount these in a 2.5” enclosure, which could be accepted in a standard PC or install a tray for a server. Does anyone out there know of a solid converter or recommend any action with this these?
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I purchased some RGB fans for my case some time ago, 3 120mm and 1 200mm. The smaller ones only have a regular 3 pin MOBO connector and one for the power supply, however the 200mm has the power supply and a 5V 3Pin RGB header connector. Unfortunately, my MOBO doesn't include an rgb header and I didn't realize this beforehand. I found a 5V 3Pin female to SM 3 Pin Male adapter but I haven't been able to find the opposite. So, this may be a silly question, but I'm wondering if there is a 5V 3Pin Male to SM 3Pin Female adapter I would be able to use instead. I was looking at external RGB controllers but wasn't able to find one for the 3 Pin RGB header. Thank you in advance for any help!
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So I got a new Monitor (1440p 144hz) from lg for Christmas for my Mac (MacBook Pro 13" 2019 Intel Core i5 quad-core 1.4ghz) completely overkill, but after using it for I while I noticed that it won't let me use 1440p at 144hz only 1080p at 120hz or 1440p at 60hz I don't know what is causing the issue I think it's my intel mac, but I'm not sure. I tried to use boot camp, and it didn't change a thing. It's not the HDMI cable since I tested it with 2 one I got (something 8k I don't know) and the other one from the Xbox Series X (HDMI 2.1). Maybe it's my adapter (UGREEN 6in1 premium 4k 60hz adapter). I have also noticed when I change the resolution in the display settings it gets super buggy and I can't change the refresh rate and I can go up to 4k, which does not make any sense at all.
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I've been troubleshooting an old dying Windows XP laptop and tried to use one of these adapters to test the 2.5" IDE hard-drive on my desktop: https://www.microcenter.com/product/463322/vantec-ide-sata-to-usb-30-hard-drive-adapter I plugged it into the USB hub on my keyboard and as soon as I powered it up with this adapter it started clicking. The next time I plugged it into the laptop it was dead, unable to find the OS. It had been working fine in the laptop for months. Do you think this adapter damaged the drive, or was it just a coincidence? The drive was probably at least 15 years old after all. I want to make sure I don't damage anything else with this adapter. I have an old Plextor CD Drive that I want to use for low-speed burning, and I would hate to break something else.
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Every generation of PCIe is twice as fast as the last. This means 16 lanes of PCIe 2.0 is equal to 8 lanes of 3.0 and 4 lanes of 4.0. However, if I plug a 4.0 SSD into a 3.0 slot, it'll use just 4 lanes, cutting the bandwidth in half. And using a 2.0 slot would cut that in half again, leaving you with a fourth of the bandwidth. My question is if there's a way to use all 16 lanes in a 2.0 slot. To adapt them to the 4 lane connector on the 4.0 SSD and get the full speed. Is there an adapter card I can use? I would appreciate any help.
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So long story short I'm looking for a way to adapt (female) 'standard M5' (this is what I was told by the seller) to anything that I can put a QDC fitting on. The Idea is something similar to that Asus laptop where the laptop and the dock has QDC fittings (but obviously less official), I found 1/8" QDC fittings from Koolance but the only threaded option is standard G 1/4 which is much larger (which is find except I also can't find and adapters to that...) and 1/8" NBT (which I also can't find an adapter for). What I'm probably going to have to do is just put 1/8" QDCs inline between the laptop and the pump/rad and just connect them together when not in use but I'm trying to avoid that xD I have very little experience with this kind of stuff so I'm hoping someone knows more about it and can help, thanks!
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I have a Xbox One Controller that i used to play in my PC, first i just used the cable it came with, but then bought https://www.8bitdo.com/wireless-usb-adapter/ this adapter to use it on my switch, my cable died so i started using the 8bit adapter on my PC too, but have some problems with range and signal quality, sometimes it misses inputs and its not as presice. So here i am now, trying to get something better but the stores are full of nockoffs that i dont really trust. Anyone has experience or knows what is the best way to conect a Xbox One S controller to PC? I dont have bluethooth in the desk PC, i would like to connect more than 1 controller, but the most important thing is the 8bit do adapter is not great and i want a good conection... https://articulo.mercadolibre.cl/MLC-605900207-receptor-inalambrico-usb-de-joystick-xbox-one-a-pc-_JM#position=6&search_layout=stack&type=item&tracking_id=e9b251b4-e33f-4339-9204-582cca75de70 This one... seems offbrand so i dont know... https://articulo.mercadolibre.cl/MLC-526669403-xbox-one-wireless-adaptador-for-windows-sniper-_JM#position=1&search_layout=stack&type=item&tracking_id=e9b251b4-e33f-4339-9204-582cca75de70 This one seems "good" but it doesnt say about conecting multiple controllers. Help please!
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Hi all, I have recently bought the parts to build an sff machine in a Lazer3D HT5 case. I have built in one of these cases before and it was absolutely great. The last time I built in the case I had no issue sourcing an hd plex 200w and a Dell 240W PA-9E Power Brick. The problem I am facing with the new build is that hdplex are showing as sold out world wide, I contacted support and they have said they have no idea when they will be back in stock due to the chip shortage (it has been a couple of months now). I am based in the UK and looking for alternatives was very difficult as most alternatives would have to be imported from elsewhere. I finically managed to find (what I believe to be a genuine) mini-box Pico PicoPSU-160-XT purchased from a reliable site - Onlogic. This part was imported to the UK from the EU. The PicoPSU-160-XT has arrived and I have came across a lot of constraints. The power jack is very small and mini-box have confirmed that the adapter that comes with the part doesn’t support the full 160W! They suggested buying this part but it would be over £50 for shipping and taxes. I have drawings of how this part is configured so could make one myself. Here are the drawings. The problem is, I also can’t find a suitable power brick around 200w that would use this connector anyway (the only one I can find is 190w on mini-box’s website (which would be expensive to post). I am wondering if anyone would know how to create an adapter that could go from the miniFIT-JR adapter to a input 7.4MM x 5.0MM (compatible with Dell power bricks)? I already have a spare miniFIT-JR adapter so my main question would be what parts would I need to get (available in the UK) and how would it be wired? I am also unsure if there a certain type or gauge of wire required? Alternatively if someone could point me to a suitable solution available just now in the UK that will allow me to use the full 160w and supply a bit more power to the pico than the 160w then that would suit even better. At this point I would even take suggestions on a fully new power supply solution if there are others that would work with the HT5 case that is available in the UK just now (unfortunately flex is slightly too big for the case), I would be looking for 160w minimum. Thanks in advance Mark -
so hey guys I found this weird adapter for graphics card on amazon india and i just wanted you all to check it out https://www.amazon.in/External-Graphics-Independent-Compatible-Interface/dp/B08XBHW7CF/ref=sr_1_36?dchild=1&keywords=graphics+card&qid=1625988996&sr=8-36 -
Hello, I'm using a LENOVO_MT_80XL_BU_idea_FM_ideapad 320-15IKB per my system information. I've been using an Ethernet cable for the past year now so I haven't noticed it until now but I am unable to connect to any wifi network. My laptop operates as if that feature does not exist. The wifi adapter Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 3165 seems to not be working (see attached photo). I tried the other options like disabling then enabling it, trying to update the drivers (they were up to date). And when I uninstalled the drivers it once again showed up and this time it is showing as working properly. This time I can actually see the available wifi networks. I can connect to the wifi at home but while it does connect, it does not have any internet access whatsoever (for the record I tested out the internet with multiple devices around the house connected to the same wifi and it worked normally. I then presumed since I uninstalled the drivers, but clicking update drivers doesn't do anything. The next thing I did was go to Intel's website and manually installed the drivers compatible with my adapter. However this did not change the situation. Now connecting to Wifi gives me this result: but does not really give me any internet access, looping the "identifying network", and connected but tells me I have no internet connection. And this is where I am at currently, any advice is welcome and thank you for taking the time to help out.
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So I have a printer and the power cable sticks out like a sort thumb. This goes for the weird USB port as well. This is a roya plain the ass ad I can't put it flush again the wall and it takes up valuable desk space. I remember watching ITX build videos and noticed that some of the PSUs had 90° adapters. I was wondering is this something I could buy and use. Additionally is there such an adapter for that weird USB Port on the back?
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Recently i just bought the KZ ZSN Pro X and while browsing online i came across another product called the KZ AZ09. Apparently IEMs can be made wireless with these bluetooth adapters that connect directly into the pins rather than still needing a cable that goes into a bluetooth transmitter. The adapter itself seems to be a reasonable price at ~RM80(20USD) and i wanted to ask is this a good adapter? Are IEM bluetooth adapters any good in the first place? I mean it would seem to be the perfect combination of amazing sound with wireless convenience. Are there some caveats like the sound isn't as loud as running wired or anything of that sort or is it just this isn't that widespread or heard of? I have also seen wireless earbuds that appear to be similar to IEMs from KZ and i wanted to ask are those any good?.
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I have an old computer and need a display adapter I am not sure what I should get. I have a HDMI monitor and a computer that only outputs VGA. What adaptor should I get and where (I don't use Amazon because of ethical reasons)
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So I have a monitor running off a usb to hdmi adapter thats says it can run at 1080p 60. But I did a refresh rate/reponse time test and turns out, it's stuck at 30hz even though I selected 60hz in the settings. Help Please Thanks, William
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My younger siblings got an Xbox one s for Christmas since we have game pass and the series s was sold out. Unfortunately it was pre-owned and only came with one controller, and one 2 foot drop off the couch broke the left bumper. We got several dualshock 4's at a yard sale a while back, and figured I could save some money if I can get those working on it rather than buying some new Xbox controllers or some third party ones that'll break in a month. I know there was a big market for adapters on the switch, is there a similar market for dualshock 4 adapters for Xbox one?
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Hi! I recently bought 9 Corsair Ql120 fans. I need to have another internal USB header to attach the second lighting hub. Unfortunately, both of mine are taking up my an existing lighting hub and my AIO. I was wondering if something like THIS adapter will work. It turns a USB port on the mobo into an internal USB header. All I need it to do is power my Corsair Lighting Node Core with 3 QL120 fans. I also dont want to spend $70 on the commander pro, as I really dont think its worth it. Thanks for any help!
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Will this https://www.gorite.com/usb-hdmi-cec-adapter-p8-usbcecv1 (GoRite HDMI Cec Adapter) work for my needs. I have a custom built desktop pc (Gtx 1660), paired with a regular tv. All I want is the tv to power on and off when I turn the pc on and off. I think this is what I need but I wanted a second opinion before I blew a bunch of money.
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Hey, I recently changed my motherboard and Intel cpu with a new one (Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro V2 and Ryzen 7 3700x). Unfortunately I can now not longer use the HDMI on the motherboard because the Ryzen doesn't have integrated graphics. I have two screens that have only HDMI Input and my GTX960 only has one HDMI output. So I bought a display port to HDMI adapter but it didn't work. The screen stays black. Is the Adapter broken or am I missing something? I tested the Adapter on both screens, they work without the Adapter but both don't work with it.
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So, this is a pretty new problem to me, and a pretty stubborn one. There's no possible correlation that I can think of, so, i don't know why this is happening, nothing was changed. The problem is that whenever I start a game, let's say Fortnite, after about 5 minutes, the wifi shuts off. Also, it does not matter if the game is offline or online, it shuts off after about 5-10 minutes of gameplay. This is happening with all of my games, and for a while my editing software as well. When I try to reconnect to my wifi, it shows "Can't connect to network". Then I try to restart the adapter(not a usb one, internal laptop adapter) from control panel, but when I disabled it, it refuses to re-enable. A quick refresh shows that this is because the adapter is gone from the page. Now, I have scoured the corners of the internet, looking for solutions, and if people have had the same problem as me, some have. Not exactly similar, but kind of. I have tried probably everything, and it still refuses to fix. Also my laptop is connected to AC power(don't know if that's relevant). Anyways, here's what all I have tried - 1. Network reset 2. Unchecking "Allow the computer to switch off this device to save power" 3. Update the driver to it's latest version, then DOWNGRADE it, neither versions work. 4. Flashing the BIOS to 1 older version. 5. Windows 10 reset. 6. Trying both 2 GHz and 5 GHz wifi channels. 7. Turned off all the "Wake on magic packet" type settings off. 8. Doing a very selective tracert method I saw here - https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/computer-disconnects-from-wifi-while-gaming.3445266/ - to no avail. I also tried a continous pinging test to my router, my isp's ip and google.com. When the wifi inevitably switched off, it just shows "Failed to connect - General Error". 9. I have read somewhere that overheating could cause this, but I made sure that internal temps were around 70 when gaming, and 70 throughout. 10. I have also read somewhere (quora) that ram could somehow be the culprit, but i have not changed my ram, it's still stock. 11. I have also tried latest windows update, reversing windows update, nothing seems to work. 12. Tried winsock reset, ip reset, and set my ip from dynamic to static. Obviously restarted where restarting was needed. 13. Deleted my antivirus, switched off all windows protection while gaming(even defender firewall) and it still turns off. Tried it with everything on as well. This is most of the stuff I have tried, there might be some I'm forgetting. This has been going on for about 10 days, and I'm kind of frustrated that I still can't figure out what the problem is. In the meantime, I'm using a lan cable, but it's kind of impractical, so I would like to go back to wifi as soon as i can. Some last information - my laptop is a stock Asus tuf a15 (FA506II) laptop, and no upgrades have been done on it, pretty new as well. If anyone can help me, it will be really appreciated. Thanks in advanced!
