seon123

What part of the graphics card reaches 91C? The die, junction, VRM, memory or something else? 91C junction is absolutely fine, and nothing to worry about. 91C die temperature is on the high side, but also fine. No, a GPU running at 90C will not dump 90C air into the case. How in the world did you get that idea? The air being cooler than the die is exactly what allows it to transfer heat, and a graphics card with active cooling will make sure the air is far cooler than the die temperature. Do you also think that the liquid in a liquid cooler also reaches 90C?

Fans add a negligible amount of power, and monitors don't draw power from the PC's PSU. We can't tell you if you should upgrade your PSU, since we don't know which model it is. Thermaltake has 18 different 850W 80+ Gold rated PSUs, and you haven't told us which it is.

It doesn't have Hall Effect joysticks, so don't expect it to last any better in terms of stick drift. If that is important to you, consider a controller that does have Hall Effect joysticks. Seems like the Vader 3 Pro is well regarded among those options. https://www.reddit.com/r/Controller/comments/14in8pe/2023_hall_effect_controller_purchasing_guide_if/

Yes. Both use Corsair Type 4 pinouts.

You're just smelling flux burning away. It's normal, and should eventually go away. The temperature reading is meaningless without knowing exactly where in the PSU it's measuring, so I wouldn't worry about it either.

$40 used to be a reasonable amount to spend on a PSU for a low end system, but you somehow managed to pick some exceptionally awful ones. $20 used to be the price of a CX450 2017 after rebate, and $50 would get you a Formula 450W, $60 maybe a Whisper M 450W. PSUs in between would mostly be whatever. The CX 2017 is a decent entry level PSU, and the Bitfenixes are actually quite good, and even have more protections than something like the Seasonic Prime TX-1600 ATX 3.0. (Seasonic of course famously cutting corners on protections in all budget classes) But prices and models change, and any reasonable person would see that and adjust what PSU to get. From just looking at PCPP US, I'd say the A550BN for $60 would be a decent PSU for systems where those extra $20-30 up to a higher end PSU would be more useful elsewhere. At this budget my requirements for a PSU aren't even high, it's just independently regulated outputs, and the basic protections (except for multi rail OCP, which is fine, but not ideal, to omit for lower wattage PSUs). I do not care about modularity, noise, HCS terminals, LLC, connectors or fan at that price. I do agree that people often spend too much on PSUs, but they should do actual research to find the cheapest PSU that fits their requirements, instead of just getting a random cheaper PSU like you'd apparently recommend them. As I've never changed away from my entry level case, I'd say the case. It doesn't have 2.5" slots, room for cable management or even 5Gbps USB, but it's fine. Same with the CPU cooler, my 212 Evo is fine for about 125W with reasonable fan noise (albeit changed fans). A more modern cheap cooler will be fine to cool 125W, especially if you're more willing than me to sacrifice on noise. Fans, probably. One intake, one exhaust is fine for a traditional layout case, and lower power components will be fine. The storage can be cheaped out on, somewhat. An MX500, 870 Evo, or another 3D TLC SSD that has a RAM cache is more than plenty, and wasting money on a cheaper DRAMless SSD, or a more expensive NVMe SSD is just usually not worth it, imo. The graphics card can be cheaped out on, as in getting one with a more basic cooler. You can always just strap on an aftermarket cooler, just like with CPUs, if it becomes an issue, and it can save quite a decent amount at the time of purchase.

If GPU mining becomes viable again, and you decide to do it, you'll just want the highest wattage PSU you can find, and shove as many graphics cards in as possible. That would probably require one of the few 2000W PSUs out there. https://pcpartpicker.com/products/power-supply/#A=2000000000000,2050000000000 If you want a more realistic answer, that would depend on what you're likely to upgrade to. If you're on a mainstream platform and with a single GPU, and use ambient cooling, a good 850W has always been enough, and is still plenty. The important part though is "good". If you can't afford a high end 850W PSU, you don't need it, and you should instead focus on getting a good PSU, instead of an unnecessarily high wattage PSU.

You can press any combination of 3 keys on the 2024 without issue. With the G15, you're only ever guaranteed 2 keys at the same time. If you don't need to press more than two keys at the same time, the G15 is fine. But if you, let's say, game, the G15 is just not good. With that said, Logitech is hilariously behind on mechanical keyboards, and you don't need to cherry pick in order to make it look bad.

No. The flagship Seasonic Prime TX-1600 ATX v3.0 is fully happy to send 1600W down a single SATA cable into a faulty SSD. You're not the only one to think high end single rail PSUs would have that sort of protection, but the protection you're imagining is exactly what multi rail OCP on 12V is.

"Single rail" isn't really a thing. It's just the marketing way of telling the consumers that they cut corners on the protections and omitted multi rail OCP. With a 1200W single rail PSU, a faulty SSD could pull 1200W through the SATA cable, potentially causing a lot of damage. A PSU with correctly configured multi rail OCP would just safely shut down in that scenario.

It is single rail, which is a bad thing.

You are saying random terms that are meaningless together. The 12+4 pin is not rated for 1200W, the 6+2 pin is not rated for 750W, and a cable does not have rails. Please try to explain what you're actually asking, without trying to cram in technical terms.

93°C is under the TJmax of 100°C, so assuming it's mounted correctly, it just means that the CPU cooler fan isn't making more noise than needed by spinning unnecessarily fast.

Looks like the Endorfy uses a standard 75% layout, so you can just get a gradient keycap set from Glorious. It includes extra keycaps for the nav keys in the correct profile and colour. https://www.gloriousgaming.com/products/glorious-pbt-black-key-caps

Why are those the only two options? Where are you buying from, and what are you powering? I really doubt your system actually needs anywhere near 1200W, which should give you more PSU options. Among those, easily the Hydro PTM Pro. It has a higher hold up time, which could matter, depending on your electricity grid and UPS, but more importantly, it's quieter. It was passive at 600W on the Cybenetics report, while the Hela R was passive up to 360W. And the Hydro PTM Pro was also just quieter at all loads. PSU calculators are useless and overestimate by a ton. If OP wants a random number, they're better off going to random.org. If you know this little about PSUs, please stay far away from trying to give advice on PSUs. FSP is a major OEM, just like CWT, which manufactured the Silverstone. That refers to the noise rating. If you have functioning ears, it matters. If you are deaf, it doesn't. But it's even better to actually look at the report and check the noise numbers, as it's better to know how loud it is under your specific system's idle and load, than some average rating.