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Maxwit44

Member
  • Content Count

    676
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards


About Maxwit44

  • Title
    Brain says yes, Wallet says NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
  • Birthday 1981-09-28

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    Maxwit44
  • Origin
    Maxwitt44
  • Battle.net
    maxwitt44
  • Twitch.tv
    Maxwit44
  • Twitter
    @nerdrides

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Tasmania, Australia
  • Interests
    Golf, Cricket, Moto GP, F1, anything fast enough to something stupid on / in/ around. Oh and maybe computers a little
  • Biography
    being planing with PCs since I was about 9. Done a bit of Hackintoshing, cas gamer. First PC Intel 386 16Mhz with 2meg of ram, 200mb Hdd, on board graphics, PC speaker, and a 14 inch B&W monitor. Oh how times have changed
  • Occupation
    I build boats....... big ones.......

System

  • CPU
    Intel 5930K
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte X99-UD3H
  • RAM
    Hyper FuryX 4 x 8 Gig
  • GPU
    RX480
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Pro
  • Storage
    Intel 520SSD 240g, 2x Hyper Fury X 120g SSD, Seagate 4TB, 2 WD Black 1TB
  • PSU
    Corsair RM650
  • Display(s)
    31" Asus
  • Cooling
    ST30 420, EX240, EX360, UT60 240 , EK blocks, Pump, fittings and PEGT tube
  • Keyboard
    Thermal Take Challenger Pro
  • Mouse
    Madcatz 7 w/ Sargas320 deck
  • Sound
    On board with 5.1 logitech speakers
  • Operating System
    Win 10pro

Recent Profile Visitors

4,507 profile views
  1. With choosing rads, Standard 30mm rads will do fine. Something like the EK Coolstream, Alphacools ST30 or even the XSPC EX240/360 etc. As long as the number of Fins Per Inch is low like 8-15 or so, any kind of fan will be ok. As for how many, I would recomend 1 280 / 240mm and a 360mm rad. I personally put a rad in every available spot that a rad can fit it, where practical. My case is the Enthoo Primo, and I run 4 rads in that. Your budget for the build will dictate what you can do. More is always good, less, not so.
  2. There really isn't a guide. Honestly this would be a good place to start -> Primochill Tube Bending Guide The guide is pretty much the same for PETG and Acrylic. Jayztwocents does a good explaination between the types on the Build log with Pauls Hardware. Having built a number of Hard line acrylic and PETG builds, Buy plenty of extra tube, so when you make a mistake, you have bit extra tube to have another go. Jayztwocents and LTT have good build guides and build logs with hardline tubing on their Youtube channels. Get into it, and have a go. You'll be making a awesome build in no time. It isn't that hard. If I can do it, anyone can!!
  3. hello, Young male gamers staring at Pretty girls!! Sex sells people..... Hello!!??!!
  4. Ok, So new is way off the table. ebay it up. Or even gumtree... And i say that because at PCCG, a New lower end 970 - $469
  5. @spwath Couple of questions for you: 1. As dumb as it sounds, is you cpu block in the loop the right way around? even after adding a gpu block. 2. Did you add and more rads to the circut? or anything that may cause any kind of restriction. 3. Does it still leak if you take the gpu block out of the loop?
  6. Yeah, For use on a LAN or for use over a dedicated Internet Connection.
  7. Using a dedicated PC for hosting online gaming over a dedicated connection. That way when you can have Zero impact on the gaming for the other users connected to it. Down side is that you require a seperate PC for daily use. This is not really down anymore since most ISP's run gaming servers and there are companies that will host servers at a monthly cost etc. Was mainly used pre 2004 or earlier, when people had to make thier own servers for gaming, and LAN parties was still a real local community thing.
  8. I'm gonna get flamed for this, but here it goes..... Xeons: Pending on the model / version / core count etc, it will perform as good as any of the Intel i series of cpus in most cases. The difference, well, I'm not sure anymore due to some of the later Q2'15 Xeons like the Intel® Xeon® Processor E3-1265L v4 which has on board Iris pro 6300. The only difference I can see is higher memory bandwidth up form 25.6 GB/s to 29.8 GB/s for the Xeons. i3/5/7: hyperthreading for the i3/7, i5 with out. Lower cost, lower bandwidth cpus compared to the Xeons, not much to say really, pick the socket, mainboard to suit, and correct ram and get building. I would only really look at higher end i3 or K series for the i5/7 (thats my opinion). The onboard is OK, but don't try and game on it, doesn't cope too well. What you really need to figure out is: 1. Is it a working station computer, with little gaming on the side? 2. a gaming rig? 3. very light gaming, mainly internet surfing, HTPC, etc? 4. a home or game server? Options 1 & 4 I would recomend a Xeon over anything else. This is due to more often a higher core/thread count, and higher over all memory bandwidth, and the more likely hood of multithreaded applications running. And i series for 2 & 3 due to lighter single to dual core or threaded workloads (gaming and trolling on the interwebs). Truth of the matter is, What ever the cpu you have, it will perform all the tasks you ask it to do. How efficently it does it, is something else.
  9. plug it all in, and then turn on the psu, then boot. If no on / off switch, install psu, then plug it in, power on then boot.
  10. Wow, is this build log still going. Not trying to be rude, but, I thought it may have been finished by now. I do understand that quality takes time, unlike my builds......
  11. Um, how the hell do you "break" PVC tubing?? It kinks, or stretches at best, but break??? Acrylic tubing breaks......... But back to the question, I'd look in your own country, EK waterblocks Predator 240?? Or the Swiftech H220x?? they would be better options IMHO.
  12. If your thinks of doing a hard line setup, PETG is sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much better to work with over acrylic. PM and Ask me why

  13. @AdamPinnock Awesome Bud there bud. It would be cool if that gauge was a functioning temp gauge for your coolant, but out side of that, Really nice work!!
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