Wizwerd

Okay, I'm willing to work with you, but please understand that you are lacking quite a lot of basics, so we need to be patient with each other since I don't know what you know and what you don't know. Also know that without specific information about which exact tubes you want to go for, a recommendation for a suitable fitting is impossible.
 
No, in a loop you can mix tubing sizes as at the end the limiting flow is from waterblocks so tubing size does not impact overall flow to any significant degree. They also all terminate in G1/4" so are bottlenecked at each end anyway.
 
Yes, you found them, but they can be as simple as zip ties too. They are more like insurance, as normally they do have enough grip to hold their own, but over time the tubing does stretch, so it is a very good idea to use them.
 
I'm not entirely sure why chris did not point out the ZMT comes in different thicknesses of which one is 15.9/9.5 (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-tube-zmt-matte-black-15-9-9-5mm) this works with 10/16 mm STC compression fittings (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-torque-stc-10-16-black)
 
Sorry not sure if I understand your statement here, but for soft tubing ID does matter for compression fittings and the inner section is essentially a barb fitting. For hard tubing it does not matter as all the O-rings are on the outer portion of the tube. See the two illustrations below:
 
Soft tubing (ID and OD matters)

 
Hard tubing (only OD matters, usually)

 
As these are barb ends, you can only attach them to 10 mm ID soft tubing, so in essence will work with the 10 mm ID tubing either as you mention, or the 15.9/9.5 I mentioned above. Although honestly, I would consider something from Koolance than the plastic QDC from EK as the metal finish is much more aesthetically pleasing. EK has some kits IIRC (https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-pro-cpu-quick-disconnect-kit) 
 
Your build, so you do you. The linked build only "works" because they installed two radiators in atypical locations and so there actually was a flow that needed to be distributed. In your situation you only have the CPU tubing that needs to get out to the external radiator, so I assume a whole lot of ports of the distro will need to be connected to each other to complete the loop.
 
From here is my opinion so feel free to gloss over it, but I think part of the reason for getting an external radiator is so that you can cool some sick components while keeping it very minimal and clean on the PC side. Otherwise, it would be better to just get a big case that can fit large radiators and keep it all in one clean package. That's why I think the best pairing of external radiators are actually mini-ITX systems.
 
See an example of a badly implemented distro plate, a distro plate for the sake of a distro-plate does not look good. All the connections that need to sealed to get a complete loop if not placed correctly just leads to a mass of guts on the distro plate

 
Answers can only be simple if the question is simple. Unfortunately your questions are fairly broad to cover as seen in my answers above in as much detail as possible. Imagine being a person having to answer a question from a frustrated person who thinks it should be simple but it is not.
 
Yes, that was always an option. My recommendation for you is to get the tubing and fittings from the same website as they can have strange measurement differences between them, so ordering from the same manufacturer "guarantees" compatibility to some extent.
 

...well...since you said you are using 14 mm OD hard tubing, on one side of the F-F adaptor you will need hard tubing fittings that work with 14 mm OD hard tubing, and on the other side, you will need soft tubing fitting that work with whatever ID/OD ZMT tubing you decide to go for.
 
Practically speaking though, you probably want to consider at least a couple of quick disconnects so that you can uncouple the external radiator from the system without leaking everything out.

It's fine because the fluid doesn't touch the fins, only the copper tubing going through the rad.
 
Also yeah I highly recommend D5 over DDC.

Tech yesterday was my last day but since I called amazon and complained and proved the bearings were bad they let me return it today.
 
Now I just have to hope I can press purchase in time when the 3080 ti's come out

yeah, I am going to water cool but this gaming desktop I'm building as a DIY project just put me $500 in the hole so I have to wait on the Watercool setup for the time being.  I think the 10700k is the perfect cpu for what im trying to do atm.

hahaha, didn't know about 2077 using up 8 cores, probably don't want the 10900k anyway since it draws 275w stock, any oc puts it at 350w, and if u get a rtx 3000 to go with it, GG. last time i had extremely power hungry parts it heated up my entire room, it's not a matter of whether the heatsinks are enough at that point 🤣, the heats gotta go somewhere.

Didn't gamersnexus just make a video on the 3800xt being a waste of silicon cause in some cases the 3800x out performs the 3800xt?

What lows?
 
Quad channel really doesnt make sense for gaming as you are chasing lower latency for the memmory, not bandwidht. 
 
It makes no sense to go HEDT and quad channel for your usecase. As other products fit your requirements better. 

8 slot, they have 2 slots per channel. The CPU can access different memory channels at the same time but only 1 rank (1 side per stick for standard height UDIMM and SODIMM) per channel
 
Consumer platform doesnt support more than dual channel. It's only HEDT platform (like your X99, also X299, X399 and TRX40) support quad channel.
 
You could always select a different frequency while XMP is enabled. Though in this case looks like the frequency wouldn't bulge further, you have to deep into the abyss of memory timings in order to gain more performance.

If you can spend the extra, yes.

Noice! And hehe, exact same single core lol. These chips seem to be remarkably consistent at the same clocks. My 5960X also did 403 single core, but at 4.5Ghz core/3.7Ghz uncore, needed 300Mhz/200Mhz more to hit the same level of performance. Your chip should behave exactly like mine in any game that uses 6 cores or less, which would be most of them since few games actually scale across many cores well. 

I'd run a stock test but after 4 days of waking up, troubleshooting, googling, etc.  I'm kinda beat.  I already can tell a huge difference in the games I'm playing.
 
Mordhau which can use all 6 of my cores is running at 165 FPS on near max settings when before I had to use low settings on everything to get that framerate.
 
I tested it in populated lobbies and different maps, its huge.  I barely dip below 100 fps on my lows.  I think i'll see a huge improvement when the x4 8 gig CL16 sticks I ordered come tomorrow.  I'm gonna return the 16 gig ones cause after doing some research I learned how to judge ram sticks much better.  for $86 per set its a deal.
 
I'll let you know the performance difference between the dual channel and the quad tomorrow.

@Zando Bob I went back into the BIOS and i made the exact changes that you specified with the InputVoltage and the Vcore voltage and I was able to boot this time to 4.2 GHz
 
latest benchmark
 
It seems that I lost a bit of performance in some places but gained about 3% on the CPU.
 
it still says my average went up to 3.85GHz from 3.65GHz so I have you to thank for that.  You've been a big help homie tytytytytyty

Alright so I installed the ram, and my mobo has some special features that caught me off guard.  It has preset OC tune profiles that OC the CPU at 3.8,4.0, and 4.2 GHz and I tested the 3.4 and 4.0 but It would immediately crash.  So I stopped trying that feature lol; then I went to adjust my ram memory frequency to 3200 and enabling xmp 2.0 profile and by DEFAULT they change the BCLK from default 100 to 120 and that started causing crashes.  Once I set that back to 100 I could boot to windows and confirmed I could run the new sticks at 3200.  Then my good friend told me that when he OC'd he used Intel Extreme Tuning Utility and that I could change and stress test from the desktop, so that sounded much easier and I looked up a YT tutorial for it.
 
When I'm using this program it seems to be missing all the voltage adjustment features that are in the BIOS and it really dumbs the process down to just sliding the GHz as high as u can go.  Right now 4.0 GHz is the highest I can get it without crashing and my max temps hit 50c on the CPU.  It really seems like I could go further but  adjusting clocks higher than 4.0 are an instant crash. Right now I'm sitting here doing an hr stress test to make sure it stays stable. At least I don't have to worry about degradation from high CPU temps by settling for 4.0 GHz.

ya 80C is pretty hot to be running at all the time.  I'll follow your advice here when the Corsair vengence sticks come in today.  I don't think I want to OC the ram sticks as I hear its very easy to mess up and cause instability issues.  I'd like to hit at least 4.0 GHZ on the CPU if i'm going to OC it.  I distinctly remember when I bought the chip years ago I was disappointed that they didn't have 4.0 GHZ chips available in the i7 series so I'm excited to try it.

It's working as intended. Those spikes are there for when it quickly needs to process something like opening a window which is what it's supposed to do. I would also remove that auto oc as the zotac firestorm software gives a bunch of issues for a lot of people.