BourbonOrBust

The higher rpm is better if you have good fan control. If your fan control is more limited, the 1300rpm may be better suited. 

This is a guide to disassemble* a 2005 Apple PowerMac G5. The main reason I am doing this is to mod the chassis to support ATX components so I can transfer my components into this classic case. This guide is preparing my G5 to receive a kit from The Lazer Hive which will allow me to install my current rigs Motherboard, GPU, and 120mm radiator. 
 
Tools you will need: 4mm 9” Ball-Hex screw driver, 3mm Hex screw driver,  T-10 screwdriver, T-8 screwdriver, PH 1 screwdriver, #0 Jewelers Phillips head Screw Driver, 9/32nd- inch nut driver**, 1/4th- inch nut driver**, flathead screw driver (any size or length), pliers
 
This teardown does not include instructions for HDD removal as my G5 had none, this teardown also does not include many visuals as to how to remove the top shelf.
** In the absence of nut-drivers you may use pliers to remove select nuts and screws, especially if you strip them (like I did about 3 times)
 
Lay your Mac on its side such that the side panel is facing toward you Open the latch at the rear                                       Remove the side panel Remove the plastic air guard                                  Remove the front fan assembly by pulling directly up on it and the tab Disconnect the front speaker and fan assembly cables Remove the front speaker and fan assembly by pulling directly up on it Remove the plastic dowel and pin keeping the G5 shroud in place Pull the G5 shroud horizontally to the left and lift up to remove it Remove the air guide directing air over the CPU heat sync Disconnect the rear fan header                                  Unscrew the GPU PCIe bracket screw                      Unlock the GPU from the PCIe slot and remove the GPU by pulling directly up Apply pressure to the two tabs on the rear fan assembly and remove it by pulling directly up Remove the screws securing the GPU support bracket and remove it by pulling up (mind the tabs) Remove the screws securing the PCIe divider to the chassis and the logic board Remove the PCIe divider by pulling up after the screws have been removed Remove the RAM by releasing the locks on the modules Remove the 8 3mm Hex screws from the heat sync assembly Remove the dual Philips head screws                      Use the 4mm 9” Ball-Hex screw driver to remove the captive screws in the heat sync Remove the heat sync                                                                                                             Lift the metal bracket for the front fan assembly     Release the clips on the back of the metal bracket and remove the fan cable Remove the fan header from the Motherboard         Remove the screws securing the front panel board to the Motherboard Pull back and away on the front panel board to free it from the chassis Remove all connections from the Motherboard       Use the T8 screws to unscrew the leads from the PSU Undo the sudo-standoffs the CPU heat sync used Use the #0 Philips head to unscrew the 9 screws securing the rear fan grill to the chassis Remove the grill assembly                                      You can now lift up the Motherboard, remove it from the chassis Unscrew the two screws securing the PSU shroud and remove the shroud Remove the 4 T10 screws on the bottom of the chassis securing the PSU Remove this standoff to enable removal of the PSU Remove this nut to allow removal of the plastic liner in the chassis Remove the 5 screws securing the fan and HDD caddy to the shelf of the chassis Unlatch the optical drive and remove it by simply pulling up Remove all the 3mm Hex screws from the top shelf Remove the C-clip and push remove the pin holding the latch mechanism in place Remove the latch mechanism Unscrew the T8 screws on the back side of the shelf and remove the shelf Remove the bottom HDD caddy, mind the PCB.   Remove the two screws securing this fan in place Remove the 7 screws securing the top HDD caddy to the chassis Unravel the WiFi antenna from around the lip of the chassis Remove the 3 screws securing the antenna assembly and use a flathead screw driver to pry the back from the chassis Unscrew the 15 T8 screws                                      Success!                                                                   After all this I still cannot decide on where to put my PSU. I can put it in the front, in the shelf, or I can cut the bottom shroud and plop in there……..

PSU-Cables:
 
 
- PCIe 8-Pin (2x) for graphics cards (over CPU 8-Pin adapter)
- CPU (1x 8-Pin, 1x 4-Pin) – actually there is one more 8-Pin, but it is occupied by the PCIe-adapter. So, it is possible to do a dual-CPU setup with a small graphics-card, that does not need a dedicated power plug, as well.
- Molex (2x) (6x over SATA-Adapter)
- SATA (5x) (over Molex adapter), black sleeved
- 24-Pin ATX (20 Pin is possible) + Extension (black) + Dual PSU connector
- 12V Fan (4x over Molex Adapter), black sleeved
 

Different types of cables and adapters (in an mATX Case)
 
You can hide most cables behind the PSU-housing and under the mainboard, as the standoffs that hold the mainboard are quite high. That is the biggest benefit over using one of those tray-adapter-plates that would use up the space behind the mainboard.
 

The cables in an ATX Case (not hidden / cable-managed)

I love Dreamcasts... Underrated console? Justifiable flop? Poor release timing? Say what you will, but I think they're great, in fact I have 3 of them. But unfortunately, the GD-ROM drive died on my daily driver, and without some costly parts from the modding scene, it wasn't worth resurrecting right now. So I stored it's guts in an anti-static bag, and decided that the case is going to form the basis of my first Small Form Factor build. 
 
Now I've seen DC-PC builds before... but never have I seen a really clean build, capable of gaming somewhat respectably. Most are from years back, built on ancient hardware, or without dedicated GPU's; The only one that did have one, also had pipes coming out of the side due to an AIO. So that doesn't count imho. Another build had a complete external desktop PSU...you see what I'm getting at here  

Rough spec 
 
STX motherboard. Smaller than ITX, but bigger than a NUC. If you've not heard of it I don't blame you... CPU will be an i5, probably a 6400T to help what will undoubtedly be 'tricky' thermals. PCIe powered GPU. For both simplicity and size, it'll likely be a 1050 mini. 8Gb DDR4, single stick of sodimm, budget as well as space restrictions here. SSD, capacity undecided. External power brick...because I haven't got the space to build that internally.  
 
I'm currently struggling with the setup of the power delivery, which effects the component selection more than with a normal build. For example, the power delivery I end up going with dictates whether I have an M.2 SSD or I can get away with a separate one and use the onboard slot for WiFi(STX boards all have dual M.2 slots). Also the size inherently means bad thermals, so whilst I want to keep it as original as possible, there's a high possibility of the rear of the console, I/O panel etc being entirely mesh.
 

For anyone wondering, a Dreamcast has an internal volume of just under 2.8L.......so this should be fun...  
 
***Currently seeking advice over on the Small Form Factor forums, about the viability of this build when using discreet graphics. The space limitations are real....But it'll 100% be built in some form or another, so I guess I can do a brief introduction post about it***
 

I made a new mesh for the rear of the console, so this was a good excuse to take some photos whilst the lighting was good  
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just thought I would Send some new pictures  
 
I've just put an 80mm fan on top of the tube to blow air on the VRMs of the bottom motherboard if you were wondering what that is. I'm designing a 3D-printed mount to have it mounted on the waterblock's screws.  
 

 

 
Oh and here's what cable management hell looks like  
 
 

Flipped the motherboard layout and got a 3D printed case badge.

Some more pictures of the Bladerunner 2049 Casemod. Still some more to come after a little edit! Massive thanks to CORSAIR ,Barrowint Liquid.cool For the fun toys to make the build.

Also in use if you can spot it is an Alphacool English Radiator an XSPC block and a EK Water Blocks rather heavily modded GPU plate (the rusting on all these products is of course fake;)

The build was inspired by my love for all things Bladerunner, 70% of the build was done by my son with the brute force jobs done by myself. He really enjoyed the ease of soft tubing this time as previously only done hard loops. We did set off with hard tubing in mind for this build but once the custom bables were in it just looked so much better with the natural loop of the soft tubing.
 
More updates on our facebook group  https://www.facebook.com/dmodzuk/

Video to follow.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leak test and system check before last details and some dye to the loop. Still quite a bit of rusting effects to add to the raining "too new" looking sections.

Oh I've never been. I'm just one of those people who buys the merch... ?
 
...I'm joking This year was our fifth annual trip, I drive a modified E36 328i
 
 

Look at you, didn't even need the ticket to be sent up the chain hahahahahaaa. 

*clicks on link*
*video already liked*
Apparently my memory of LTT videos starts degrading around the 4 year mark...
 
I'm honored to have the first comment of my first post hail from on-high
 
Thank you both for the replies! It's great news to hear my $55 used cpu block I bought from a forum listing isn't holding me back.
A de-lid and lap may be in my future, but that also may be the quarantine talking 🙃
 

Basically it's more about optimization for a given platform than about outright gainz these days.