Meganter

Click the big reset button in Afterburner..?

 
If it fails badly (as in locking up the system) and you've ticked the option in Afterburner to have the overclock be applied at the startup of Windows, you'll have to boot into safe mode and uninstall Afterburner.

Ever since I saw the desk PC that Linus did, I wanted to create one too. One big difference is that I did not want to use MDF as I personally think it looks cheap,  and not very sturdy as a table top. Linus had a piece of glass over his and that served him well. I did not want my forearms on glass anymore and I love the feel of natural wood over glass or acrylic. I also have been dying to be able to do an epoxy/live edge table. So i thought if I can do a river table with clear epoxy in it and put a shelf underneath, it would look real cool. so I started designing.
 
I needed a larger desk than normal as I have a lot of different projects that I work on, and some are physical, so I started with 70 x 40 (all measurements are freedom units  ) table top. I wanted minimalist but sturdy legs so I decided to go with 4x1 square 1/8in steel. Doing some math, that left me with a shelf of 58 x 25 x 8 to put all the computer parts in.
 
so starts the build...
First I looked for a slab that wasnt too expensive, and fit my dimensions. after running through a planer we got a very worn and ugly piece to look like this:
 
 
We decided where to make the cut. Normally on live edge slabs, you cut it long ways then flip it so the live edge in in the center. I cleaned off the rot and bark:

 
we then set up a mold and an area that was free from dust:
 
then the pour started:

 
it took 3 different pours and 10 days to fully cure. 

as that cured, I started working on the leg. Not a whole lot to it, just welded them up, grind it down, and send it off to
 
after grinding this is what it looked like:
 
g after a failed attempt at rattle canning

during all this time, I created the box that the computers would sit in. this, by far, took the most amount of time. First thing to do was to mock up what it would look like under the desk:

 
then the glue ups (we have dominoes in the joints for added support):
 
then sanding down to 320 grit and finishing (in this pic, you can see the layout starting to take shape):

while i was working on the layout, I mocked up the table: to get a polish on the epoxy, it took going from 180 grit to 3000 grit (not skipping a step, and going wet at 800), then a 3 stage polisher. it took 16 hours of just sanding to get this done. and I didnt get it right the first time.
 
a cool shot I took through the edge of the table (yes, there are bubbles, mistakes were made):

 
after the polish job:

went round and round about the layout. knowing that I am going to create some heat, I have a ton of hard drives, and I have 2 complete PCs (one is a server). I will skip past it an show you the final layout
 
System 1:
 
System 2:
 
Close up on hard drives
 
there is a cutout underneath this with a filter in place so as the fans push down it forces air through the hdds to keep them cool.

final assembly:

System Specs:
 
System 1:
Asus STRIX Z390-F Gaming
Intel 8700K
GSkill 64GB RAM
2x EVO 960 M.2s
EVGA 2080 Ti XC Ultra with EK Waterblock
Asus 10G NIC
 
System 2:
Asus Z9pe-D16/2L
2x E2597 V2s
128GB RDRAM
2x EVGA 1070s with EK Waterblocks
8x SSD
9x HDDs
Asus 10G NIC
 
 
Conclusion:
I wanted something that shows my skills (although I am not a master at any of them) and I run a business, therefore I needed a server. I already had all the hardware. The server was in an old 4u case, and the PC was in a Thermaltake tower 900 case. I would have loved to throw a threadripper in and get the latest enthusiast hardware. but practicality took over.

https://h5.aliexpress.com/item/32645451815.html

You WANT high static pressure fans where there is obstruction.
It can forces the air through the obstruction / material better than airflow designed fans.
This can be filtered front case panels, front intakes with HDD cages in the way .... not exclusively for radiators.
 
Do you have the regular Corsair 275R, or the 275R Airflow edition?
I would use the SP140L in the front for now, GIVEN the front of the 275R has restricted airflow.
The non-airflow edition It has a removal mesh filter, AND a full unventilated front cover, so SP fans are more ideal than AF fans.

First things first, thanks for everyone from LTT community who helped build this rig.

After 7 years from last Intel build, decided to build second rig in 2020 for reasonable price based on AMD processor. Good for 1080p/1440p gaming. I'm using Noctua NH-D15, is my second Noctua cooler and I'm very happy and satisfied using this cooler. Quiet and low temp. Using my rig mostly for gaming, light video edit, internet surfing and some office work. All working fine and well.
Decided also upgrade case from Cooler Master MasterBox Pro RGB to Corsair Crystal series 680X RGB.

I was looking for bigger case, and my main target was some double case, because I know things got bigger than in old build, more cables, more storage, etc. I fall in love when I see this case from Corsair. 
Added also 4 Noctua fans NF-F12 and one NF-A14 (3 more to go). Custom modular cables from BitFenix Alchemy 2.0, 4 Corsairs LED RGB strips, 8 low noise fan adapters from Noctua.


Specs:
 
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 
Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 (dual fan)
Mobo: Gigabyte B450 AORUS PRO
GPU: Palit GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB JetStream 
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB DDR4-3200 CL14
Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" SSD Samsung 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME SSD Samsung 970 Evo Plus 250 GB M.2-2280 NVME SSD Case: Corsair Crystal 680X RGB
PSU: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular 
 
Custom parts:
Deltaco Cable Organizer Tape
BitFenix Alchemy 2.0
Corsair RGB LED Lighting PRO Expansion Kit
 
PCPartPicker
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Made some upgrade. Got new monitor 2560x1440 from Asus (MG278Q) and desk from outlet. Happy asf.
 

Try one ram on each slots and do it with all ram sticks (1 by 1) and see if it posts.

What ever you plug the display in is the GPU that will be used 
You can plug a display to both of them and each one will do a different thing separately.

Hello, 
 
I wouldn't recommend above 3000MHz as people have reported weird behaviour and instability so @Mateyyy and @TofuHaroto suggestions are the best here.
 
I wouldn't call enabling XMP/DOCP overclock.

Actually gaming's one of the areas where faster memory makes the largest difference, especially for Ryzen, and benchmarking could also mean Cinebench, where memory really doesn't make much of a difference.
 
3200 CL16 and 3000 CL15 result in the same latency. The thing is, since you're running a 1600, so Zen 1, you're likely going to have to turn down the memory speed to 3000/2933MHz anyway, so I'd rather get the kit that's rated to work at tighter timings in the first place.

Here is my first ever build!  I finished it a few months ago and have been loving it ever since. I know the cables could do some adjusting, I'm currently looking into cablemods to clean it all up !
 
Here are the specs :
Case: Fractal design Meshify C
Motherboard: Asus Tuf x570 Gaming Plus (wifi)
Cpu: Ryzen 7 3700x
Gpu: XFX Raw ii 5700xt
Ram: 16gb Corsair 3000
Fans: Two intake 140mm Corsair LL Series , Two Fractal design 120mm exhaust fans
Psu: Corsair CX series 650 Watt Bronze
 

Yea one second let me just check my Crystal ball.

Oh I thought the 5700XT was better not by much but still  

Hello guys, 
 
So this is my computer :
 
CPU : I7-8700k  4,7GHz 1,275v
CPU cooler : Noctua NH-U14S
GPU : Sapphire Nitro+ Radeon RX Vega 64
Motherboard : Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Ultra
RAM : 32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB 3466 MHz CL16
SSD : Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2,5" + Sabrent Rocket 1TB M.2
HDD : Seagate BarraCuda 4TB 3,5" 5400RPM
Case : Phanteks ECLIPSE P600S Black
PSU : Corsair HX Platinum 850W
Others : Noctua NF-F12 PWM chromax.black.swap x3 top exhaust
Noctua NF-A14 PWM chromax.black.swap x3 front intake, x1 rear exhaust, x1 on the CPU cooler
Noctua NA-HC6 chromax.black on the CPU cooler
 
CPU : I got it for Christmas, a family gift. That bad boy can go up to 5,2GHz at 1,35v but I keep it at 4,7GHz for no reason in particular.
CPU Cooler and fans : Well I'm a "fan" (what an easy and bad pun ) of Noctua since 2012 now, my previous build add the same but in the old beige/brown.
GPU : This one is good but it was a mistake. I bought it in June, just before the release of the 5700XT. But I got 3 games for free with it !
Motherboard : Probably overkill but it was on discount earlier this year, it's wel built and could allow a better OC than my previous and meh Z370 Aorus Ultra Gaming Rev.1.
Ram : It's ram right ?  
SSD : Samsung because we all make mistakes... Sabrent was a gift from my mom for my birthday this year, this is fast but to be honest I don't really see a lot of difference compared to my Samsung.
HDD : Mass storage, I have a lot of music and illegaly downloaded movies.
Case : That case is AWESOME. Easy to build in, good bundle with, it's quiet yet has a really good airflow even closed !
PSU : 850w is overkill, but what can I say, I got it for new for the price of a RMx 550w.
 
And without futher ado :
 

 

 

 

 

 
I know the quality is not the best but I only have a phone to take picture, a fancy LG G6 ThinQ.
 
Oh and as you can see I like Star Wars, say hello to tiny Vader

Hello,
 
For a 3900x + 2080S I would suggest Tier B+ minimum from this list : 
 
 
 
@TofuHaroto recommendations are good but it also depends of your market. I'd add the Seasonic GC, GX and GM, Phanteks AMP, EVGA G2, Coolermaster MWE Gold that are usually available and on the same price range.
 
Well it depends, in °C you die, in K you die, in °F you survive, in angle it doesn't make sense.

Hello,
 
For a 3900x + 2080S I would suggest Tier B+ minimum from this list : 
 
 
 
@TofuHaroto recommendations are good but it also depends of your market. I'd add the Seasonic GC, GX and GM, Phanteks AMP, EVGA G2, Coolermaster MWE Gold that are usually available and on the same price range.
 
Well it depends, in °C you die, in K you die, in °F you survive, in angle it doesn't make sense.

No it is not, power supply quality is objective fact, not opinion. You can't say the sun is green and defend it as being an "opinion" - this is a factually wrong statement

In terms of the PSU ? 
The rm650x
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-RM650x-Certified-Modular-Supply/dp/B079H6111J
The tx650m 
https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-TX550M-Certified-Modular-Supply/dp/B01MSEYY23
Be quite! Straight power 650
https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BN618-Straight-Modular-Supply/dp/B07CX2MR8H
 
These are some good options  
There are others but these are pretty good 

Get an RMx 550W or a BitFenix Formula or Whisper 600W.

EVGA? Whose low end W and N models frequently destroy hardware due to failures and we get posts about them every week? Laughably bad example. Same with Corsair who recently recalled an entire lineup of high end power supplies due to a design flaws that caused premature failure. Again, do not blindly buy by brand.