MaxPower4U

This is a good video, covers everything required to dual boot Arch and Windows 10.

I ran eM Client for a few weeks, It didn't start minimised, I had to disable "Run on system startup", and place a shortcut that was set to run minimised in the start folder. It was actually quite good, but I kept getting an error when i shut the PC down. That was a few months ago though, I'll reinstall it and give it another try. Reload is just to clean up the system, not really the Windows 10 side of things, just all the orphaned shit from all the programs I've tested over the last few years.

Just checked it out, and I agree, EmailTray sucks. I'm currently running a batch file using nircmd, to start and minimise Thunderbird, then using a third party program called TBtray to close it to tray. I'm getting sick of having to stuff around with Thunderbird every time they do an update, I'm about to reload Windows in a week or so, was after a few suggestions to try some other clients before I do.

Windows Mail doesn't give me notifications unless the program is running, but I'm using a local account, are you using a local account, or microsoft account on your system? I've used Thunderbird for many years, the addons that use to achieve this are no longer working in the latest version, and are no longer maintained.

Looking for an mail client, that will start with Windows minimised, and can be closed to the system tray? I've tried several email clients, and have yet to find one that can achieve this with out having to resort to batch files, or addons, most of which are no longer being maintained Thanks.

Do you wear hearing protection? I run 6 of them Noctua 3K fans on a both my 360 rads, have them capped at 1500rpm , even at that RPM they are kind of loud.

If you mainboard supports it, get a coolant temp sensor, and control the fans/pump by coolant temp.

Water is an excellent conductor of heat, water directly on the die would be the most efficient way to cool a CPU.

Pretty normal, with just chrome and HWINFO64 open my 2700X bounces between 35-50c, and I'm running dual 360 rads.

Here's a picture of Clear XSPC ECX coolant after being run with Mayhems Ultra Clear tubing for 3 months. Found a heap of what looked like plasticiser built up on the water block.

Think you're a bit mixed up there, the SE is thin, PE is medium, XE is thick. SE has a 16mm core in a 28mm shroud with 21 FPI. PE has a 21.5mm core in a 38mm shroud with 18 FPI. XE has a 48mm core in a 60mm shroud with 15 FPI.

My Noctua 3K fans idle at 500 rpm, they're pretty much silent at that speed.

I'm running a pair of 360 rads (30mm and 40mm), with noctua industrial fans, in a custom loop, in a define R6. My 2700x running 4.35Ghz single core / 4.2Ghz all core, at 1.35v, will still hit low 70's C during prime 95 small FFT's, High 60's running multiple CB15 & 20 runs or when running handbrake. that's with an ambient of 24c.

I'm using Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, which as far as I know is one of the better pastes. That's impressive temps for a 120mm rad, nice low core voltage too. Thanks for the replies everyone.

Just wondering what kind of temps others are seeing when running Prime95 with custom loops. I'm running 2x 360 rads (EK PE and AC ST30) with Noctua industrial fans, D5 pump, EK Velocity CPU block, Bykski GPU block, in a Define R6. Running Prime95 Version 29.8 build 6, Small FFT's for 30 mins, tested two Ryzen 7 CPU's, 2700 and 2700X, and seeing similar results for both Ryzen 7 2700 - Ambient Temp 26c - Max CPU Temp 69c. Ryzen 7 2700X - Ambient Temp 26c - Max CPU Temp 72c.

Just done a quick test.I have 40 tabs open in Chrome, 24 images open in Paint Shop Pro, watching a 4k video in MPC-BE, and have several files downloading in via download manager. Still plenty of ram free, so I opened another 20 Tabs, and another 20 images And again, another 20 tabs, and another 20 images. I'm gunna say 16GB should still be more then enough for most users.

BIOS has been updated, it will work with Ryzen 3000.

You can get Barrow 10k sensors from mydiyau's ebay store. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Barrow-G1-4-10K-Temperature-Sensor-Stop-Fitting-TCWD-V1/252377198424?_trkparms=aid%3D777001%26algo%3DDISCO.FEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160801204525%26meid%3Da569476ac50d4d4aa4dea43dfb86e1c7%26pid%3D100651%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D252377198424&_trksid=p2481888.c100651.m4497&_trkparms=pageci%3A4af3d37a-9fae-11e9-9207-74dbd1803ba5|parentrq%3Ac5bd6cbb16b0a4b77c8ab393ff8b9b59|iid%3A1 https://www.vipc.com.au. has them as well, but looks like they are out of stock at the moment. https://www.vipc.com.au/products/xspc-g1-4-plug-with-10k-sensor https://www.vipc.com.au/products/xspc-g1-4-inline-10k-sensor

Hey everyone, I'm attempting to get a couple of BIOS faults fixed by Asus, that have made it into at least the last four BIOS updates. Board is an ROG Crosshair VI Extreme, first fault is VDDP voltage always shown as 0.065v no matter what it's set to in BIOS, After hours of researching forums, I haven't been able to find an instance of an Extreme that doesn't have this fault. Second fault is fan smoothing doesn't work, no matter what the bios is set too, from what I've found, this is a common problem with a lot of Asus boards, both AMD and Intel. I opened a support ticket, but after much back and forth, supplying way more info then they need to reproduce the fault, tech support insist I need to send the board back to the place of purchase for "RMA hardware and BIOS check", which I believe is a waste of both the retailers, and my time, as the fault is not specific to my board, and as far as I can tell, is found on all Crosshair VI Extreme boards. It seems to me that Asus tech support, doesn't know how to deal with the problem, so have palmed it off to the RMA department. So how do we actually get faults fixed, if tech support won't pass the information on to the relevant department? Has anyone been through this procedure before, and if so, did you find a remedy? Thanks in advance.

D5's pull around 2amp (24watts) @ 12v. A molex connector should supply 10 amps (120watts) @ 12v, so unless the pumps, or cable are faulty, it should not be overloading. It could be electrical noise, what happens if you disconnect the PWM cables?

Sounds similar to a problem I run into several years ago with a Noctua NH-C12P & NH-C14, on an overclocked Phenom 1100T (4GHz - 1.425v). Would run Prime95 perfectly fine all day, with the case laying on it's side, but as soon as I stood the tower case up into the correct orientation, would overheat and blue screen pretty fast. At stock speeds/voltages, it didn't matter what the case orientation was, but OC'ed the heat pipes just couldn't remove the heat, unless the case was laid on it's side. You can read the whole story here if interested https://forums.overclockers.com.au/threads/amd-phenom-ii-1100t-4ghz-high-temps.973767/

I'm running the same D5 PWM, EK 140 pump/res combo, and can't hear any difference between PWM of 25% and 100% It's in a Define R6 mounted on the front radiator with a EK-UNI Pump Bracket. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-uni-pump-bracket-120mm-fan

Hold the hose, then unscrew the collar.