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Alright then… First: Linus already said in some videos that yes YouTube money is welcomed but he is there just for exposure and what pays the bills are sponsors and supporters (Patreon, FloatPlane, YT Members and whatnot) so to say it is the ads that pay for the content is ignorance. Second: many of those channels got sponsors and supporters and they too probably don't need YT money. They wouldn't say 'no' to any money of course but YT money is just to pay for coffee or whatever, not to keep the channels running. Third: to compare YouTube with Disney+ or Amazon or Netflix is… well I'll assume it's trolling so I don't have to call anyone stupid. And finally: I am not against adverts or sponsors for that matter. TV have both - even some paid TV which is absurd! What bothers me is to have videos interrupted every 5min. Sometimes it is in the middle of something interesting and BAM! advert! That's off-putting and downright stupid, if they had the ads at the end/beginning of every video people would not get annoyed - simple as that…

I've found a few channels I actually like to watch on YouTube (both entertaining and informative) on my Apple TV that obviously has no AdBlock and about a month ago the app was auto-selecting the lowest resolution all the time which was annoying but then an update fixed that and introduced adverts every 5min~10min which is even worse! I mean sure put adverts on the 'break' if you will but constantly interrupting all videos at any time is infuriating. Is there a way to block this or at least minimise to an acceptable balance? Subscription is not an option, if I were to pay I rather pay for 'actual' content providers I suppose…

On the back or on the side? If it's on the side pretty sure I've seen something that would allow to 'hang' the laptop… Or at least very easily doable.

If it's too good in holding dust it means it's not so good for air flow. What you need is a compromise and unless you line on a farm or very close to the main road pantyhose should do fine. If anything put 2 layers and live it at that, it's cheaper and you wont have major dust issues

Wow that looks soooo cool!!! Nice job!!

That's the worst stage we can go through when working in projects like this - and usually when I make my worst and stupider mistakes… Take some time off to clear you head if you can then get back to it. You'll see things go better with a clear head

The idea itself is great but the execution is awesome! The exhaust is just a cherry on top haha Can't wait to see it finished

Not wood nor plywood. Try corrugated plastic and liquid nails.

The tittle says it all: LTT gets a Mac on their hands and immediately tries to break it for clickbaits. Oh well, get yourselves a PC to do that job instead why don't you…?

The CPU is socketed but you won't find a better one for this model. And the 2013 model is not 5k, it is 4k - the 5k display came with the 2015 model onwards and the display cables are different. It is not worth it to buy a new display - as you already know they are very expensive. It is cheaper to buy another iMac on eBay - say a 2012 with lowest specs - and use that screen on yours then sell the broken one for parts on eBay. At the end of the day when factoring the money you recover from selling the broken iMac your final cost should be less than half what you would pay for a brand new display. I know for a fact it is cheaper to buy a used iMac than buying a brand new display as I went through similar problem: had a 2015 27" and broke the screen when upgrading the CPU and soldering an IR receiver on the board (past 2012 they don't have IR anymore and I like to watch movies on mine). Then I did exactly as I described above Then once you open it up to replace the display you can also install an SSD but I am not sure if this model has SATA or M.2 for the second drive. Check this on iFixit. And you could 'join' both drivers later on and make it a Fusion Drive if you like the comfort of having just 'one' drive instead of one. As for gaming depends on the game. You can install Windows via Bootcamp but I installed straight from the USB then installed the Bootcamp drivers later on. I played Ace Combat 7 with no issues but I'd argue newer AAA games would not play on highest settings though…

Your 'normal use' is likely to be very different from mine or anyone else for that matter. A person who uses the laptop for FB or Office will have different 'normal use' than someone who uses it for video editing and rendering. And I had people with high specs laptops that would likely be used for FB and had people with low end laptops asking about video editing so it can vary by a lot and is always best to not assume anything or you might end up with a problem you did not ask for.

Double-checked, no apps or websites linked to my account. Downloaded the content, found out it was hacked in April 26th! Is there a way to use this info to locate them…? At this stage I am more curious than frustrated - more frustrated that there is no help from Instagram actually ¬¬

It is a new account and it would be easier to delete and start over. I thought I'd 'make a point' blocking and deleting them all but I filed a report and about 1h later I got a message saying my account was blocked due to misuse so I am considering the alternative… And what led me to believe it was a bot is the fact that I did not used the email in any suspicious site (or any new site whatsoever) recently. Coincidentally I did ran it over https://haveibeenpwned.com about a week ago and there was nothing… Plus they did not post anything and did not change anything other than the main picture and adding people which I assumed to be easily done with a bot once brute force was used to get access. That and the fact that it was over 600 new 'follows' which was hard enough to try to undo so I am assuming it cannot be easy to do it by hand…? Also I did use the term 'hacker' in a loose definition but now that it was brought up what would it be the right term here?

I hate when people ask me how long does the battery last. Not a term, but a peeve…? I usually reply: it depends on usage but here is the battery count and battery health percentage. And usually ignore if they insist…

I always wondered why is it that some users have thousands of followers with so little content and apart from a quick search I never gave too much thought about it. That was till today when I woke up and my account had a different picture and apparently I was following ~650 different accounts I never seen before. At first I just changed my picture back (I was half-asleep…) but once it changed back to the other one I realised what was going on and changed my password then made it my mission to block every single one of those, a 6 step process if you don’t click anywhere by mistake (times ~650!) that is still ongoing. Anyway after a while I noticed a couple patterns: The vast majority are Indians followed by Russians and South Americans so I assumed it is related to population and poverty. Barely any Chinese but then again it is not an open government; Most of them had under 100 posts (more than a few had under 10 posts) and thousands upon thousands of followers which I assumed were most likely hacked as well. Then I remembered seeing quite a few possibly fake users posting on YouTube about hacking Instagram AND remembered a few people I know that mentioned their accounts being hacked recently which makes me wonder: Are those actual hackers or, most likely, just bots? My password was not exactly great (it is now ) so brute force would possibly be the method used but regardless of who/what they are does this mean Instagram security just went to the toilet…? PS: yeah, yeah, get rid of social media and blahblahblah… Sure but what about people who live overseas or people who make honest money out of it or people who use it for distraction? Plus blaming the victim is never a good idea, right?

Or just buy another Chinese wifi relay. That was my first thought. Sure could take a while to be delivered but a lot cheaper and simpler. Then again where's the video to be made by doing this way…? Also Arduino maybe? I would have thought that you could keep the old school garage opener - which I am sure is more reliable - and just put an electronic motor to 'push the button' - so to speak. And I would not rely on anything that is integrated with Google I'd rather have it activated by proximity: wifi connects to phone when in range, that triggers the system to open the doors. Same system would keep doors closed while phone is connected to wifi - wanna open it when at home just turn off phone wifi after all if you are opening your garage while at home it means you will be working on something not procrastinating on social media. Or you know, click the darn button by hand… But alas that's not how things are done by them apparently… Perhaps too cheap for someone who clearly can afford to spent a lot of money to swap systems on a whim whilst whining about $1/month subscription so…

Well the original file was a few MBs and when upscaled and de-noised (from 640x480 to 1280x960) it went to a few GBs but when that file was compressed with Handbrake it came back to a few MBs just a bit larger than the original file but a lot sharper. I know near nothing about video compression but I do know a bit about audio compression so if it's similar it means human eye perception sees better image on the new compressed file but the system does not 'see' much better than the original file because the new file lost actual data when compressed…? EDIT: I don't know if I mentioned but I am not just upscaling on a video editing tool Like Movavi. I used Movavi in this situation because the video had already ben enhanced previously - and to do that I am running Topaz Video Enhancer AI which I definitely recommend by the way. That software (and the photo ones) are truly something! One month free trial with full features: https://topazlabs.com/downloads/ref/936/?campaign=30DayFullFeaturesFreeTrial

Fired up Movavi, saved the file as 'highest' MP4 (it went from a few MBs to a couple GBs - no apparent change in quality though ) and it worked. Now it does show up as HD on YouTube…

So… 1) it does not outperform the Samsung 970 Pro and 2) the best it can do is copy Apple's Fusion Drive technology to Windows…? (Which the video failed to mention by the way). Wow best to get a PCIe RAID board and 2 (or more) actual SSDs instead

If you gonna 'jank it' as LTT always does, better buy it ready then…? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mac-Pro-Mini-Hackintosh-2021-8-Core-64GB-RAM-OSX-11-or-10-15-1yr-Warranty/265056198447

Just seen on eBay and remembered this video… Well… a much better option if you don't want to 'jank it' as LTT always does…? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mac-Pro-Mini-Hackintosh-2021-8-Core-64GB-RAM-OSX-11-or-10-15-1yr-Warranty/265056198447

Ah it might be bitrates and MKV files that are the issue… I'll fix that and come back here. Thanks!

Mac here. What is it that you need exactly…?

Says 320x240 - this particular video is originally 480x360. So even the low-res ones gets capped even further… This sooo frustrating…

FPS is 29.97 How can I tell for sure if it is 720p? Not vast experience on the matter here I'm afraid… And ISP should not be throttling anything. Even if it were I assume that should not have impact on the file uploaded…?