Origami Cactus

Still seems way too expensive. How much does it cost in total? How much does the 16gb cost in total?

seems fine, but if you are saying that a 32gb kit costs 100$ more than a 16gb kit you are overpaying by a lot, because even in europe a 32gb kit is BELOW 90€ in total, not to say that in america it costs closer to 80$.

It is a more workstation CPU. It has 2x6 core dies, so it brings with it some latency problems in some games. Ofcourse it is the best cpu if you want to mix gaming and productivity,but if for purely gaming, there is no other choice than the 5800x3D, it should cost the same as the 5900x, but in some games has a massive advantage. I would say for gaming get it, because then there is no further upgrade, you will get the best that AM4 motherboard can provide. Just to add to it, you never said what your ram speed was. Whatever cpu you end up getting for your motherboard, the sweet spot would be 3200mhz CL16 ram. So for example if your ram is currently 2133mhz or 2400mhz, then it only makes the first gen ryzen perform even worse. Every ryzen processor loves fast ram. You also have to make sure that your ram is actually running at XMP/DOCP/ whatever your mobo manufacturer calls it speeds.

You can always get 16gb now and then get the same kit in the future again to have 32gb. I would say 32gb is really nice to have, you can have everything open when gaming. 16gb is starting to get to the point where you need to close your browser etc for gaming, especially for MW2 for example.

The r5 2600 is a really old and a weak cpu with single core performance comparable to overclocked i7 4770k, or stock i7 6700k, so really not surprised by the heavy bottleneck. Update the bios and throw the r5 5600x into your rig and enjoy the masssive gains. If you have the budget, might as well go for the last AM4 chip and get the 5800X3d too. yeah, first gen ryzen had a really weak single core performance, and the 2600 is still on first gen Zen architecture with just some memory improvements (Zen+).

yes, it is truly an MLC drive, pretty much a miracle for the price you got it.

yes, it is really MLC, that is why it is a 200$ ssd instead of a 40$ one. Older samsung pro SSDs were all MLC, and it is an OEM variant of 950Pro. That is the 970 evo OEM, that is TLC. I thought you were going to buy the mz-vkw5120?

Okay. The mz-vkw5120 is a 200$ ssd, so if you can actually get it for around 40$ then I would be a bit vary of it. It is the OEM version of Samsung 950 Pro. But the difference is: MZ-7LN5120 == sata interface mz-vkw5120 == m.2 PCPIE interface So if you can actually get that SSD for 40$ then it is a very good deal, so go for it, but definitely look at crystaldiskinfo after getting it, high chance that it is a used ssd taken out of an oem machine.

Well you didn't say the model. Changes are that it is just a mislabeled TLC, because MLC just means "multi level cells". So technically TLC (triple level cells) is also MLC, Samsung has been caught in the past calling their TLC drives as MLC, because TECHNICALLY THEY ARE. So just post the model here, and I can mostly guarantee it is actually TLC.

No, even at 5ghz overclock it struggles a lot compared to modern CPUs. It is intel 14nm+++++++++ after all. Maybe if all you play is r6 and and CS then you won't notice, but in all other games it is a major bottleneck.

You are not getting anything close to MLC in that price range. Not that it matters. All modern SSDS already run a part of them at MLC, and when they start filling up they gradually turn the cells into TLC. So if you want a MLC ssd get the biggest TLC drive you can get in that price range, and just leave large part of the drive as empty. You could probably get an ancient MLC ssd in that price range, but it will be slower, less durable, worse in every way compared to modern TLC design, so don't even think about that. On that site I would buy this drive, because compared to others it is 480gb, so you get double the cache, and also double the durability: https://www.mercadolibre.com.ar/disco-solido-interno-pny-ssd7cs900-480-rb-480gb-negro/p/MLA10137125?pdp_filters=category:MLA1672|price:*-8000#searchVariation=MLA10137125&position=1&search_layout=stack&type=product&tracking_id=db07904c-849c-4938-834a-0ef5302d9cf2 I know you wanted m.2, but all of those are 240gb and still sata on the inside. So if you can go with the sata ssd.

All modern phones have always on display like the smartwatches, but I already got my answers. They all use AMOLED, which is not scalable to pc display sizes.

Yeah, if you put it like that, it makes the RTX 4080 purchase sound even worse, if it only gives about 10-20fps more for that huge amount of money. Get the monitor now,and wait for a next gen Nvidia GPU that can actually raytrace faster and then get that. Currently Nvidia raytracing improvements have been pretty small, I think the 4000 series raytracing cores were only about 9-13% faster than 3000 series, so nothing groundbreaking.

RTX 4080 is a pretty bad purchase, I don't see why you would even consider it. If you are already paying over 1k usd for a graphics card, why would you go for the heavily cut down gpu, when you can pay just like 200 usd more and get the top of the line? Especially for raytracing I would never consider the RTX 4080. Either get an RTX 3090ti (about as fast as 4080, but can be had for much cheaper used), or go all out with a rtx 4090. No half measures. But which of the 2? Honestly I would go for a monitor upgrade first. If you saw the tech news sections there is also a 27% new LG 1440p 240hz OLED monitor, that looks pretty nice, but the alienware is also good. You can just use DLSS 2.0 to get better raytracing framerates. GPUs come and go, but a monitor remains on your desk for 5+ years usually.

Yeah I also don't get the scare about OLED burn in. Smartwatches and Smartphones have had OLED for a long time now, somewhere between 5-10 years, and no burnin issues. I had a Huawei Watch 1, Always On display on, so it always showed the same picture, 24h a day, no burn issues over 3-4 years of using it. People also have an OLED smartphone and scroll the same few apps like 16h a day, and no burnin, but suddely a pc that is on 4h a day, and burnin is a concern?

Contact Corsair.

Update it to the 18.1 version, then try again.

This video is actually heavily linked with the topic at hand, because it talks about Ryzen ECO mode, and how it gets much better performance per watt, so I will link it here: But I donçt recommend the OP goes out and buys that, any modern 7nm or 5nm cpu will perform great for gaming even at 30-40watts, for example the r5 5600, i5 12400, r5 7600x etc etc. Of course the r5 7600x would be the most efficient at low TDP because it is at the most advanced node, but it is also the most expensive.

Actually the 7950x is when limiting to the 5950x power draw, Gamers nexus later corrected themselves. 5nm and all that

I think it comes more down to cultural differences than being in the wrong, haven't been to America, but I really don't want to believe that they have normalized getting a new phone every year.

I mean most people don't buy a new phone each year like clearly you do, but instead normal people keep their current phones for 5+ years, so it is definitely worth caring about it. If you just charge from 0 to 80% instead of 100% you get over double the lifespan already, so already worth doing. Many android phones include a battery charge limiter, along with passthrough power options for exactly that reason. As long as the answer to the original question, it is yeah better to let the iphone charge to max and then use the passthrough power, I hope it does it like that, because it just makes so much sense.