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jones177

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Everything posted by jones177

  1. I had the same type of rig. I upgraded to a 2080 ti. Retired the i7 8700k because it could not do 5ghz, cool and stable and got a i7 8086k. If I was doing it today I would go with an i9 9900kS. I replaced my 1tb SATA SSD with a 2tb 970 EVO. If you don't mod games there is not point in this upgrade. I went from 16 to 32gbs ram and that is the only upgrade I could have done without. I like the Cinebench R15 single core score of the i9 10900K so that may be my next upgrade. If you are happy with the performance of your rig don't bother. None of the upgrades were games changers. They just allowed me to turn things up a bit.
  2. In the test that I have done the less cores a game uses the more likely it will bottleneck at 1440p with a 2080 ti. My 5ghz CPUs are for my old modded 1 and 2 core games. Not my modern ones. At 3440 X 1440 I have never gotten a bottle neck with a 2080 ti even with a non overclocked i7 8700k so I consider it the idea resolution for a 2080 ti. There are exceptions like AC:O. It uses more CPU at 1440p but less GPU than at 4k. At 4k it uses less CPU and more GPU. So it seems to be bottlenecked but I think It would run better with more cores than the 6 I have. I play RTX games at 1440p with most frames over 60. It takes a bit of time to get the setting right but it is worth it. It is definitely worth getting. With the monitors I have now I really don't need a 3080 ti unless it has HDMI 2.1. With HDMI 2.1 my LG OLED TV will do 120hz at 4k. Then I will need a 3080 ti. My Ultra wide monitor is a 75hz 3840 X 1600 monitor. I would like to get a higher refresh rate version but not at their current prices. My FTW3 Ultra can keep most frame over 75 even on demanding games so It will most likely not get a GPU upgrade. You are right about driver optimization. When I got my first 2080 ti it was not much faster in games than my 1080 ti. In benches it destroyed the 1080 ti.
  3. I have been using a LG OLED for a monitor since last November. If I walk away from the Oled I switch it off. Off is really standby so it comes back on in an instant. As I am typing this on the OLED it will dim and britten. This is one of the many features it has to prevent burn in. Two others are picture shift and pixel refresher. For Windows I set it to turn the screen off in 30 minutes but I always turn it off with the remote. The thing is to keep in mind that it is not a monitor. My 38" monitor that is a few feet away from the OLED stays on without a screen saver all day. It cost the same as the OLED but is a totally different animal.
  4. There are seven Windows computers in my house. None of the installs are quite the same. Two of the computers have very close specs. One has issues with every other update and one has no issues at all. I install from CD. With other methods I get blue screens and random shutdowns. It was so bad that I am afraid to try another method. My new Windows 10 CDs are less stable than my old ones so I install with the old and use the keys of the new.
  5. Thanks. I have decided to replace Corsair 860 since I think it may have a flaw. Occasionally the EVGA FTW3 Ultra is power starved. It may be an issue with the card but it runs fine on my other PSUs. What happens is I will load a game and notice I am getting low frame rate(stutter). I switch on MSI Afterburner and the readings seem to be stuck. The GPU temperature will be in the 40s and that is well below its operating temps. The power limit will be stuck around 61 to 67% and the mhz usually shows 2115 which is what the card spikes to before it heats up under load. This condition survives a reboot so switching off then on is the only way to get rid of it. I think it is called a bios freeze from what I read. The Corsair did fail running two GTX 1080 tis and that should not happened either. Nowhere did I find a post with someone having issues with 850s watts with that setup. If the FTW3 Ultra gets a bios freeze with the new PSU it will be RMAed.
  6. That is a little further than I want to go. How did you calculate your 400 watts max load?
  7. My i7 8086k at 5.1ghz uses 152 watts max. You have one so you could test it yourself. My EVGA uses 387 watts max. That is a bit over what it states in the bios but I posted the bios images here. The only bench/game that hit my CPU and GPU hard at the same time is AC:O and that is how I test real world max output. All my synthetic benches hit one or the other but none both at the same time. GPU Z tells me I am using 383 watts max when playing. The ASUS EC sensor on my Hero board tells me the CPU power usage through HWiNFO is 132 watts when playing. The power meter plug readings go well with what the software is telling me so I would like to know what is off. Is it GPU Z, HWiNFO or my power meter that is off. Do you think the software is catching spikes in power usage that the power meter does not see? Like on the other side of the PSU(not the wall side). All I want to do is figure out what is causing the discrepancy.
  8. My EVGA XC is too loud overclocked if the game uses a lot of CPU(air cooled) as well. It stays at stock most of the time. The FTW3 Ultra is quite under load and I average 2040mhz in games with the stock fan curve. Unlike the XC it has a 24/7 overclock. Even with stock clocks on the XC I set the power limit to max to help keep things smooth while there is a lot of action on screen. Without an overclock it rarely goes over 110%. according to GPU Z it uses at most 354 watts. Where does it say that on the Corsair website? Do you get this info from a source? If so please share it.
  9. Some would say yes but this is what I got playing AC:O This is the watts used going by the bios on my 2 cards. Both use more.
  10. I use 4k monitors and play at 4k,1440p and test at 1080p. My icons don't move. I play all none 4k games at full screen but I do go out of them to put "prints screens" into photoshop. I use a LG OLED TV and a 32" LG VA monitor. I did have the issue when I used Windows 7 and fixed it by installing a monitor driver.
  11. That score is a bit low. I don't overclock my 1080 SLI rig so this should be about the minimum. One card is a EVGA SC and the other is a Gigabyte Extreme. https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/45245292? On benches the cards run at about 1911mhz. This is what it looks like running Heaven in a window.
  12. I have a i7 6700k gig and two GTX 1080s. The #1 1080 ia a EVGA SC. The second is a Gigabyte Extreme. Here is a Heaven score with one 1080 and then two. My advice is don't get a card that is not the same height as yours. My cards are different heights. My fancy totally rigid bridge did not fit but the cheap one that came with my Hero X motherboard did. It was cringy watching the PCB bend but it worked. I have two RTX 2080 ti gaming computers and I use the GTX 1080 SLI setup for mod testing. A computer with a single GTX 1080 could not do the frames to make it worthwhile to me to use it.
  13. The original program for doing that is called Large Address Aware(laa_2_0_4.zip). I used it for Skyrim LE, Fallout 3, Fallout NV, Oblivion and Mass Effect to name a few. Without it I could not mod those old games. It aloud the games to use 4gb ram instead of 2. I used it on Skyrim in the first week it came out since some assets would load in without textures. Steam removed it with every update until Bethesda made it part of the executable. GOG used it on older games as well.
  14. Cinebench uses the Cinema 4D engine so it is basically a 3D rendering program demo. I had computers rending, using all the cores for years. My i7 2600k did it every day and some nights from 2011 to 2018. If Cinebench used all your CPU the computer would be unusable for anything else. The motherboard went before the CPU. The difference I get without a reboot is about 2 points in the single core test so 220 instead of 222.
  15. Yes. Do 3D. Blender is free and there are plenty YouTube videos on how to use it. Then you can make textures with a cheap program like Painter. For me 3D paid for my PCs and later everything. When I did it full time it was like playing with Lego for a living.
  16. The Strix and the Hero have VRM issues. The Hero is not as bad. I would not buy either. Also I usually use sound cards but not with the Heros. They are as good as a Sound Blaster SBX. If the Strix has the same chip, go for it.
  17. Run Heaven in a window at 1080p extreme with MSI afterburner running. If the card does not go over 1350mhz RMA it. Also look at the graph that is called power% on afterburner and see if it reaches 100%. It has been reported on the EVGA forums that some cards get stuck at a lower percentage. This can survive a reboot and switching the computer off then on gets it back to normal. My FTW3 Ultra has done this 3 time since I bought it.
  18. I would go with a 38" 3840 X 1600 144hz monitor. For some unknown reason 1600 vertical pixels is far superior to 1440. It looks closer to 4k. Even my modded game with 8k textures show features that are not visible at 1440. I now consider 1440 low res because of it. I have a 75hz model that is perfect for a single 2080 ti but for 144hz two would make sense.
  19. Your graphic score is less than half of what my slow(EVGA XC) 2080 ti(16040)does so something is up. A water cooled card should do about 16250. Run MSI Afterburner and see if the card is reaching its power limit. At stock that would be 100%. Also make sure that it is not stuck at 1350mhz. This is a none bug. Your CPU score looks fine. My 5gz 6 cores do around 8000.
  20. For high end I would not go with a Strix motherboard. I would go with a AORUS board. If it has to be ASUS go Hero. An 970 EVO only benefits open world games that load as you move around the world. Only my modded games that use 4 and 8k textures or 10 X NPCs use the extra speed of the EVO. For all non modified games the SATA SSDs on my other gaming computer do just fine. That may change with games designed for the new consoles. For the high end get a 2tb 970 EVO. For games now get a 4tb SATA. Since I mod games I would only buy 2tb EVOs. The boost clock on the ASUS RTX 2080TI O11G Gaming is too low for me to consider it high end. A 2080 ti it has to run at around 2040 to 2100mhz with a 24/7 overclock to be considered high end. My EVGA FTW3 Ultra can do that with the default fan curve but my EVGA XC can't come close. It also needs a power limit over 124% so it can get the power to maintain high clocks. A better choice wound be a EVGA Hybrid since it has a higher boost clock(1755) and would stay a lot cooler and that equals higher mhz. It is also on sale at $200 off. I use 3200mhz ram but I am starting to think it was a mistake. If I was buying now I would go with 3600mhz ram since if I decided to go Ryzen next gen I would have ram better suited to it.
  21. For that CPU the EVGA XC Ultra would be perfect.
  22. I used a AORUS Ultra and it works well with 5ghz on all cores. This gen I would only buy AORUS. Last gen I only bought Heros.
  23. I replaced my GTX 1080 tis with RTX 2080 ti and I have been happy with the decision. They gave me the frames I wanted. That was in 2018. I would not by one now unless it was a replacement. If there was a big discount I would say yes. If you still use the i7 6700k that is another good reason not to get a 2080 ti. My i7 8700k stock on all cores(4.7ghz) with a EVGA FTW3 Ultra could not beet my i7 8086k at 5ghz using a EVGA XC. The FTW3 Ultra cost $300 more than the XC and runs 10c cooler. With the 2080 tis the performance drop off is like a cliff. It is not even comparable to the 1080 ti because of it(I have 3 1080 tis). I replaced the i7 8700k since I lost the silicon lottery with it. Only the 2080 tis that have a boost clock of 1635mhz or higher are worth buying. The ones with less usually only have 112% on the power limit and run too hot. A 2080 ti needs 124 to 130% on the power limit to worth buying at all. That leaves out most of the cheap 2080 tis. The minimum is a card like my XC but it does run hot overclocked and if I would had known I would have gotten the Ultra version. Also if you still mod Fallout 4 a 2080 ti will not help much getting frames but a 5ghz 6 or 8 core upgrade transforms the game. The lows in Boston and around built up settlements are above 60fps so they don't exist. The game is smooth everywhere even with 10 time the NPCs than vanilla(60 feral ghouls).
  24. I do 50% amazon, 40% Newegg and 10% manufacturers. Their product descriptions are poor and sometimes fulse so I carefully research anything I buy there. The draw is that I am a Prime member so fast, free shipping. The downside is that they have some laze drivers.
  25. It depends on what your 2080 ti runs at. I tested between a my two gaming computers. At the time they used the same motherboard ram and SSD so the only difference was the CPUs frequency and the cooling solution of the 2080 tis One is an i7 8700k at 4.7ghz all cores with an EVGA FTW3 Ultra 2080 ti running at 2040mhz average overclocked. The other is a i7 8086k at 5ghz on all cores with an EVGA XC 2080 ti running at 1950mhz average overclocked. The computer with the 5ghz CPU won every test even though the 2080 ti was slower and cost $300 less. It made the FTW3 Ultra pointless. I only noticed the difference in performance because I have 2 gaming computers. When they were both were running EVGA 1080 ti SC2s the difference between them was 3 to 5 frames in games and benches. The 1080 tis made the 5ghz CPU pointless. I replaces the i7 8700k with another i7 8086k and now the FTW3 Ultra always wins. At hybrid temps and good silicon your 2080 ti should run between 2085mhz and 2115mhz overclocked. If you want all the performance get an i9 9900k and overclock it to 5ghz on laa cores or more. If you don't mind losing a few frames get the R 3700x. The difference in gameplay does not exist in vanilla games. In building and heavily modded games it can mean the difference between smooth and stutter if taken to the limit.
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