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Wiflare

Member
  • Posts

    1,094
  • Joined

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Contact Methods

  • Steam
    Captain Sir Dr Dr Mr Wiflare VIII
  • Twitch.tv
    Wiflare

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Downriver! (Michigan)
  • Interests
    technology, space, music, making things.
  • Biography
    shouldn't this be the autobiography section instead of the biography section?

    I play vibraphone, bass (double and electric), & timpani.
    I have long hair.
    I like good root beer and fine cheese.
    I make mistakes.
  • Occupation
    Dishwasher
  • Member title
    I haven't decided whether it's a cherry or an apple.

System

  • CPU
    i5 3570k @4.5, 1.18v
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z68A-GD65 (G3)
  • RAM
    4x4 Crucial Tactical Tracer CL9 1866
  • GPU
    Gigabyte Windforce r9 380
  • Case
    Nzxt S340 White
  • Storage
    1TB Barracuda 7200
  • PSU
    EVGA 500B 80+ Bronze
  • Display(s)
    AOC 1080p E2252Sw & 16" Proscan 1080p tv
  • Cooling
    NZXT Kraken X61
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 w/ reds
  • Mouse
    Logitech G302
  • Sound
    Sennheiser hd 449s
  • Operating System
    Win 10 pro

Recent Profile Visitors

2,763 profile views
  1. This is a doozy. My monitor is a dell se2717hx The problem I'm having is difficult to explain with words. It's almost like the display is interlaced, and the signal is partially screwed. An upper section of the screen shows the bottom of the screen, and the bottom is smashed full of colors that should be displayed on the top of the screen. I suspect it's a power related issue. No warranty on it anymore. I've tried different 3 different hdmi cords, 3 different power cords, 3 different computers, and 4 different outlets. Upon taking it apart, no capacitors are blown and nothing looks fowl. Please help! Thanks
  2. I'm pretty sure. Check this source out: https://www.laptopscreen.com/English/model/Dell/LATITUDE~E5450/
  3. I suppose that is so. the i7 still performs pretty darn good http://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/2822-amd-ryzen-r7-1800x-review-premiere-blender-fps-benchmarks/page-7
  4. I ended up going for 4.7 ghz and i got it with 1.27v, and unstable at 1.265v. 4.8 doesn't seem to be achievable under 1.3v, too bad. Cpu-z reports 1.240v, it's always reported about 30mV low though. Unfortunately, it seems to have the IHS issue, jumping from 50 C to 80 C every few seconds.
  5. What are your c-state settings? My 3570k can do much lower voltages (1.17 / 1.18 @ 4.5ghz) because I messed with them a little.
  6. -- Are you planning on gaming? if so, the i7 7700k is better and cheaper. to save even more, the i5 7600k is cheaper and basically as good in games as the i7. (not trying to be an intel fanboy, it's just the truth) if you were to get either of those cpus, I'd recommend a z270 motherboard. This isn't a necessary switch, however. if you'd rather stick with amd, the 1700 is a far greater value with effectively the same performance. the motherboard would be better suited to overclock if you go with the x370 chipset instead. If you live near a micro center, it's worth it to drive there and get your cpu. they sell them for less than MSRP. it's crazy. -- gpu looks fine, maybe a little underpowered considering the cpu. ram is fine, amd will benefit from faster ram however. psu is shady, evga 500B/600B would be fine and they're both solid psus. you can save some money on the ssd by going with basically anyone else, but the general consensus around here is that samsung ssds are the way to go. m.2 ssds are also significantly faster. A case only has to be as big as the motherboard (unless it's an ITX build), but can be larger. Mini ITX, micro ATX, and full ATX (smallest to largest) are really all you can find in terms of motherboards nowadays. Looks may or may not be a big deal to you, and case decision is the most subjective part of your PC build. My recommendation is fractal design's core series cases - budget-friendly, sturdy, and a dream to build in considering the cost. There are a lot of bad case manufacturers out there, watch out for that and look at reviews before you buy. The CPU cooler should be either a tower or a liquid AIO system at your budget. Liquid coolers generally perform better and fit in more cases. Tower coolers can be less expensive and are generally quieter. As for fans, you don't have to worry about buying extras. My recommended builds: AMD: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/rcNCkT Intel: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/NRRWCy
  7. Yeah, it's never worked out too well for me. It says I need to insert a flash drive or something but it doesn't ever save.
  8. I'm looking for a little insight to get the absolute most out of my OC. My 3570k has been steady at 4.5ghz at a cool 1.17-1.18v for about 3 and a half years now. Just doing a bit of maintenance, and trying to see if I can get a little more speed without sacrificing too much stability. Specs : i5 3570k Msi Z68a-gd65 (g3) Gigabyte r9 280x 4x4 (16 gigs) crucial ballistix tactical tracer 1866mhz cl9 Current settings:
  9. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($253.00 @ Shopping Express) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($55.00 @ PCCaseGear) Motherboard: Asus PRIME B250M-K Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($102.00 @ Centre Com) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16GB (1 x 16GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($152.00 @ IJK) Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($69.00 @ Shopping Express) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($63.00 @ Shopping Express) Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon RX 480 8GB G1 Gaming Video Card ($339.00 @ Shopping Express) Case: Corsair SPEC-ALPHA (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($105.00 @ Mwave Australia) Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($89.00 @ Scorptec) Total: $1227.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-09 20:06 AEST+1000 This should do. I'm confident with everything in this list.
  10. I can't wait for @LinusTech's reaction to the name. What a disaster of a marketing team.
  11. ah, front panel connectors - they're always so tedious. It should be near the middle on the very bottom of your board, check your manual for the layout the power and reset headers don't matter which way you put it in (+,-).
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