PineyCreek

Assuming you're going for gaming, at a glance, Nvidia if you can't do without their ray-tracing tech. The XTX is more powerful overall. I don't have a great frame of reference since I'm still on a 1080Ti. I'm sure others will chime in though. Also depends on what used means in reference to the 3090.

Dave the Diver has given me a surprising amount of hours and laughs for $18.

You have to take into account the other side of the connection. Some companies run on slower connection speeds and could have hundreds of people using that bandwidth. Also, rarely on consumer-class connections, even at high speeds, are you guaranteed to get the full rate at all times.

Normal when card is less under load. If you run GPU-Z while the card is under load it will likely say PCI-E 4.0 @ 4.0. My 1080Ti also shows as 1.1 in GPU-Z until I start playing something.

Ground wires can also become disconnected/broken, but that should easily be detected (surge protector, plug testers, entire house having some issues if the main ground wire's disconnected, etc.

Really, it'd just be nice if someone could confirm they've been able to use 32GB DIMMs in a 300 series AMD board.

Do you have a different power cord you can try? I've never heard of a power cord being so cheap it causes that much of an issue, but first time for everything...

Aww, I'm not super riled up about it. Just tired of hearing it

Cheating in a video game is completely fine so long as it's not affecting anyone's play experience except your own (i.e. single player only). Other people that think you're robbing yourself of the proper experience and want to open their mouths should sit down and mind their own business. People that complain about video games being too hard should stick to games that are the right difficulty for them and not complain about the existence of said games. People that get a thrill out of particularly unforgiving games should enjoy them, while not being jerks to people that don't enjoy the same challenges they do. People that tell others to 'git gud' should be slapped, figuratively. Possibly physically.

I'd suggest removing/reseating the RAM. ESD has always been a potential hazard to electronics.

If your computer is stable, not full of dust, has working fans/airflow, and you're not concerned about power costs, etc., sure. Servers and network appliances get left on for years sometimes...even on occasion the Windows-based ones. I've left Windows up for 90 days before it got intolerably glitchy (back in Win2K days).

MS owns them. Monetize/incentivize with 'cheevos all the things.

Bump, inviting any other opinions/suggestions. Thank you in advance. Another option I have would be grabbing a 2x16GB kit of the exact same memory (same timings as well) as what I have currently. Not sure if it would pair well, but I'd be ok with 32GB or 48GB at the moment. Though I doubt highly that the CL16 memory will cause much of a downside compared to the CL14...I am second guessing a bit on the Mushkin Lumina since it takes software to control the RGB and I'm not a great fan of rainbow puke.

I'm more concerned about the motherboard generation. The QVL didn't even test 32GB DIMMs. I don't have enough experience in regards to how much weight I should put into the memory controller in-CPU vs. the chipset/board type, though my thought process was along the lines of since the memory controller's in the CPU, the only parts that should really matter with the RAM on the motherboard is the traces between CPU and RAM slots and the BIOS...

Currently: Asrock x370 Taichi, newest BIOS Ryzen 5800X 2x8GB CL14 3200 RAM Since the newer Zen chips have a far better memory controller nowadays, what do you think the likelihood is that I can get 2x32GB CL16 3200 RAM working on this motherboard? QVL's worthless since they haven't updated the memory QVL for some time. I already bought some Mushkin Redline 3200, a 2x32GB kit with 16-18-18-38 timings, but I'm curious if anyone else already knows if this has a chance at working or not.

Model?

I'm assuming you mean motherboard, memory and CPU at that rate. Isn't the Vostrol 270 from 10 Intel CPU generations ago? LGA 1155 I think with 3rd gen.

I was going to say, reminds me of moisture damage.

Any process in task manager showing as 100% CPU or close to it?

Well, we undid the damage. I didn't think of Remote Desktop initially but that was enabled, so we were able to re-enable it. Win11 was doing exactly what it was told: it wasn't the driver that was uninstalled, it was the Intel display adapter that was disabled. As an added bonus, the Quadro card was in a Code 43 status (i.e. not loading) so no display.

So, I personally am blissfully unaware of Windows 11 and its foibles (and thankfully so), but my Dad bought a Lenovo P360 Ultra. This is an SFF system with both Intel integrated and nVidia Quadro graphics. He wanted better performance in AutoCAD. nVidia control panel didn't see the Quadro card (which was odd to me) but he tried disabling the Intel display driver, which resulted in a black screen...a black screen that cannot be recovered from despite various methods tried. This is not a black screen with a mouse cursor, it is completely black. This persists through reboots. Nothing is output on any DisplayPort connection or a USB-C adapter (tried multiple monitors). It does not respond to Win + Ctrl + Shift + B or Win + P or Ctrl + Alt + Del or Ctrl + Shift + Esc. It does not enter safe mode. The device powers on normally, no beep codes, fans work, sounds like a normal boot up/POST noises. Removing everything except one monitor and a keyboard also does not help it to work on reboot. There's quite a few articles on Windows 11 black screen, but almost all of them say try keys to see if it's just the normal GUI not starting, try safe mode, etc. I suspect this is an integrated setup where the Intel iGPU is handling all output and the nVidia is just handling 3D, but even so, my understanding on Windows 11 is if there's a failure with the display driver, it should default back to the Windows Basic Display Driver or something similar. It would be amazing if somehow disabling the Intel display driver actually tripped something in BIOS to render all displays inoperable, but if a non-DIY OEM is involved along with Windows, I'd give it a non-zero chance. Any ideas on other things to try aside from Lenovo's support? They've already hung up on my Dad twice. Things yet to try: Bootable Windows 11 media to hopefully boot to USB? CMOS Reset?

I've got both a Raspberry Pi 2B and a 3B+. They've sat for a while without being powered on (climate-controlled, low humidity). When I last used them, both worked fine. When I tried turning them on recently, they either don't finish boot or don't put out a display. With the 3B+ at least, I can hear the attached fan powering on and varying speed a bit. The red LED lights up, but no activity light, and nothing on the ethernet port. I have tried both with multiple power supplies (both at 5V 2.5A max output) at multiple outlets, tried with multiple HDMI cables and multiple displays both TV and computer monitor. To coincide with the lack of activity on the ethernet port, I also do not see a new device on the network nor one of the Pis' configured device names. I'm not sure how both of these can go bad suddenly, so I must be doing something wrong, or I have tremendously bad luck. Any ideas? The one thing I have not yet tried is checking the microSD cards in either of them, which have remained in their respective Pis' card slots. They are fully-inserted. UPDATE: Well, nevermind. I solved my problem. Took the microSD card out to check the boot partition, found it was fine. Forced HDMI though it wasn't necessary before and I wanted to say I had done something. Put the card back in and no issues with starting it up...I imagine it was just reseating the card considering before it wasn't even starting the network stack and no activity lights. These weren't stored in a high-humidity or hot environment so I'm not sure why reseating it worked. Then again I suppose I'm not sure sometimes why power cycling somethings works as often as it does, even though I've been in tech support in some fashion for decades >_>

I run mine on a Pi Zero W, no issues, so long as you aren't running much else.

Pop usually means something electrical like a capacitor, assuming the pop didn't come from speakers. Got a PSU tester or integrated graphics so you can test the PSU or test to see if it works without the GPU? 10900 should have integrated graphics but I don't know if your board has connectors for it; you didn't say what model motherboard.