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-rascal-

Member
  • Content Count

    6,539
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards


About -rascal-

  • Title
    Hiding under the POWAAA pins on the LGA 1151 socket
  • Birthday 1992-06-12

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    -RASCAL-
  • Origin
    suddenDeadDread

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Victoria BC, Canada
  • Interests
    Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution. Nuff said.
    Trail / Enduro / Downhill Mountain Biking
    Computers / Electronics / PCMasterRace
    Engineering / Science
  • Biography
    DM Characterization & Validation Engineer, Redlen Technologies, Inc.
    B.Eng Electrical Engineer, Specialization in Nanotechnology, and Digital & Embedded Systems
    Electronics & Computer Engineering Technologist (Diploma + Advanced Diploma)
  • Occupation
    DM Characterization & Validation Engineer

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7-8086K @ 5.1 GHz
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Master
  • RAM
    32GB (8GB X 4) G.Skill TridentZ / TridentZ RGB DDR4-3000 CL14
  • GPU
    Sapphire NITRO+ RX 5700 XT Special Edition
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Luxe Tempered Glass Edition
  • Storage
    SanDisk SSD PLUS 480GB + Samsung 860 EVO 1TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850W P2
  • Display(s)
    2x ASUS MG248QR 144Hz
  • Cooling
    EKwb Custom Loop
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 / Thermaltake Tt Sports Poseidon
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum
  • Sound
    Logitech X-540 5.1
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro x64
  • Laptop
    Lenovo ThinkPad T480

Recent Profile Visitors

8,874 profile views
  1. Just wondering, are you using TWO separate PCI-E cables, or a single daisy-chain cable, to power the RTX 2080 Super?
  2. Which Gigabyte graphics card do you have specifically? If your graphics card does not have an RGB / ARGB header on it (like my Sapphire NITRO+ 5700 XT), then RGB Fusion 2.0 is most likely your only option. You should be able to control the color, color pattern (pulse, flash, color cycle), etc, etc, through RGB Fusion 2.0. Major concern is whether or not RGB Fusion will conflict with ASUS Aura. Those are RGB control software, and they might interfere with one another.... but you won't know until you try. One of my buddies had a nightmare with multiple RGB software...and things just didn't work well... G.Skill RGB for RAM ASUS Aura Sync for motherboard Corsair iCUE for fans
  3. I would first put the original RAM back into the system first, so you are able to get into the BIOS. If you updated the BIOS correctly, it should say the BIOS revision somewhere within the BIOS information page, etc. It sounds like the motherboard doesn't like the 16GB density memory sticks...but I don't know why...when HP specifies up to 64GB...but they gimp it? The motherboard looks like "standard" STX form factory for the most part. It uses non-proprietary connectors (e.g. ATX 24-pin, 8-pin CPU, etc, etc). You should, be able to just swap the motherboard out, and you are good to go. Keep in mind, since the computer case / chassis accepts micro-ATX, are you limited to those sizes, BECAUSE of the case / chassis. It looks like you can basically re-use everything else in that system (e.g. power supply, CPU, graphics card, etc, etc). LGA-2066 is STILL Intel's CURRENT flagship 'Extreme' series. You can re-use that CPU in a retail LGA-2066 supported motherboard. Just to give you a few m-ATX boards... MSi X299M-A PRO https://pcpartpicker.com/product/f6Nv6h/msi-x299m-a-pro-micro-atx-lga2066-motherboard-x299m-a-pro EVGA X299 MICRO ATX2 https://pcpartpicker.com/product/wT97YJ/evga-x299-micro-atx-2-micro-atx-lga2066-motherboard-121-sx-e296-kr MSi X299M GAMING PRO CARBON https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zqx9TW/msi-x299m-gaming-pro-carbon-ac-micro-atx-lga2066-motherboard-x299m-gaming-pro-carbon-ac AsRock X299M EXTREME4 https://www.asrock.com/MB/Intel/X299M Extreme4/#Overview If you go standard full-size ATX, you open up A LOT more motherboard options...
  4. Did you remove the RAM when swapping out your CPU cooler? Did you get to try all four RAM slots? Did you check the problematic RAM slot(s) for any bent / warp / damaged gold contact pins? I am suspecting possibly: Bent / damage CPU pin(s), affected the memory slots Damaged DIMM (memory) slot, when removing / reinstalling RAM
  5. Use HWiNFO, and see if it will gives better temperature reading descriptions. Depending on the motherboard, HWMonitor can either just give you Temp #1 ~ #99, or specifically say CPU / Socket / Motherboard / CPU-NB / VRM, etc, etc.
  6. We have a LTT overclocking database.... Cinebench database / scoreboard, too... (which should have CPU overclock numbers too)
  7. Make sure AURA is COMPETELY uninstalled. It will / may leave behind some leftover folders + files in your C Drive, which can still cause Mystic Light to not work properly. You may need to manually delete them.
  8. Only certain ASUS boards, apparently (according to the make of HWiNFO), have temperature sensor(s) on the VRMs. Not sure what CPU (PECI) is, but seems to be mirror one of the other temperature readings. Just keep in mind you should be looking at the per-core temperatures, as well at the CPU package temperature reading as well. VR VCC Temperature -- is the temperature reading coming straight from the voltage regulator. This will depend on WHICH voltage regulator it is coming from, though -- NOT necessarily from the CPU VRMs. As for the T_Sensor, I am not sure what that is, but I am assuming somewhere on the motherboard (e.g. PCI-E slot or something). I am also getting a temperature reading of 26*C ~ 28*C on my ASUS B250M motherboard (work PC).
  9. See what you can find, but either DDR3-1333 / 1600 / 1866 MHz should be good. Latency timings of 9-9-9-24 is pretty standard / common for DDR3-1333 ~ 1866 MHz. Once you go up in density (e.g. 8GB per stick vs 4GB per stick), or higher frequency (e.g. 1866MHz+), then you start to see a combination of 9/10/10 latency numbers. Examples:
  10. I don't remember exactly, but JEDEC fail-safe standard is either DDR3-1066 or DDR3-1333 MHz. DDR3-1600 9-9-9-24-2T 1.5V ~ 1.60V is pretty standard, you'll find some kits rated for 1.65V even. I wouldn't worry about latency unless it is really loose (e.g. DDR3-1600 with CL11 timings or something).
  11. I just didn't want to leave some of the DIMM slots empty ._. On topic, 16GB should be enough for a couple more years. 5 years? That's projecting a little too far to say. Just like in 2010 ~ 2013 when 8GB DDR3 "was plenty" ... yet 2018 ~ 2020 comes around.
  12. Extract the file / folder (e.g. unzip / decompress it), and put ONLY the BIOS file onto the USB stick -- don't put it inside a folder. Also use one of the USB ports on the BACK of the motherboard. XMP should also adjust the DRAM voltage for you. If not, 1.35V ~ 1.40V is usually the typical for most DDR4-3000+ XMP profiles.
  13. You should be fine...unless the Samsung software does a check to make sure you are using a Samsung SSD first...otherwise it blocks you from using the software. I don't see why you need to secure erase a *NEW* SSD, especially when you are installing Windows on it. The Windows install process ALREADY formats & wipes the drive clean... Unless you are selling the SSD, or giving it away, and don't want your data to be scalped / recovered, I don't see the need to secure erase it. Doing that also wears the SSD memory cells out. Not a problem if you do it once or twice, but too many times, too frequently, will put unnecessary wear on the SSD.
  14. 4 x 16GB (total of 64GB) is supported by the board. Does it work if you tried with 1 or 2 sticks of the Corsair Vengeance memory? Three short beeps, consecutively, usual means memory error. Did you make sure all four sticks were properly seated / locked into each memory slot? What is the model of your HP PC? You may need to update the motherboard BIOS / firmware for the board to properly support 64GB of memory.
  15. Not ALL motherboards will have the RGB header, etc. If it is a budget motherboard, to hit a target price, features will be removed, and some corner will be cut....where as a $300+ motherboard, they can put EVERYTHING on. The AsRock B450M Pro4 HAS RGB and ARGB headers. What computer case / chassis is that? I am not able to identify it just by the picture...do you have the brand + model?
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