flibberdipper

It's likely almost negligible. I remember seeing something somewhere and a full-size USB keyboard with backlighting only requested to draw something like 100mA at 5V... which is essentially nothing. And that's just how much it requested: not how much it actually uses.

It's probably a back burner project to begin with, but I also have to imagine that designing and sourcing cables isn't a super easy thing to begin with, much like the screwdriver.

This is how I store almost all of my motherboards, graphics cards, and other expansion cards in a metal filing cabinet. They all work fine. Not to mention I've built many things on carpet, including my friend's build with a 7700X and 4080.

2 hours ago, Brucifer said:

Noise comparison video (also, @flibberdipper is this your video? Same profile picture).

 

 

Good luck!

Nope, not me. Though I do have this one, amusingly.

6 hours ago, Adirna said:

can you link me a guide that u use for it that made is very simple for you please ? thanks

I didn't use a guide for anything, I just kinda winged it and ended up with something that works perfectly. Hopefully later tonight I can remember to take screenshots of what I have going so you can use it as a baseline and see what happens. Mine is less of an overclock and more of an optimization since I have it set so that if I need to I can swap to a low-profile air cooler and not have to change anything.

23 minutes ago, Farm-Boy_7130 said:

As mentioned previously, I've got a Jasper V2 and/or Kronos (As  said above, Kronos can be identified with the two aluminum heat sinks, which mine has?) and I understand it's the quietest of the Phat fans. Mine is really loud, and I'm not sure if it's the console or the power brick. I believe it's the power brick however, Is there a way to make it quieter? It sounds very loud and like the fan bearing is on its way out the door.

 

I also am wondering if there's anywhere I can get new plastic covers for the console (I uh... broke some of the clips... All of them...) since mine is completely yellowed and now has no clips holding the back of the console together. If I am not able to get new covers, I may just invest in a plastic welder and learn a new skill which I've been looking into anyway.

I've never been able to find a suitable replacement for the power brick fans. My bastard 360 has a fan that is really not that great and I tried looking for longer than I care to admit trying to find a replacement for it. I'm just gonna let it get to the point where I really have to replace it and then figure it out.

As for the shell, if you just hop on eBay you can find a ton of shells from gutted consoles, mainly white ones.

The obvious answer here is that the pump has failed and it takes about a minute for it to realize.

Honestly you may as well just learn how to set up a custom boost table and voltage curve. That's what I did on my 12600KF so that it runs a little faster than stock while drawing less power. It was super easy and has had zero issues so far.

I've been rocking the 8TB white label versions of WD Reds and I'm very happy with them. Speeds are great, noise is great, and temps are great on the 5640RPM drives. I'm about to need another one and finally bare drives are cheaper than externals so I'll be getting one of those next.

I will never be able to understand how people do this with controllers, honestly. I've had my 360 controller for god knows how many years and even that still has a little bit of the nubs left. Doing this on a controller for the Series/One consoles is insane to me.

6 minutes ago, Shimejii said:

Other then that its going into the hell hole that is Mech keyboards and switches, with an absolute ton of choices to make.

Having recently gone into the rabbithole it really wasn't that bad. I killed my old G Pro X TKL that I had just put new switches into (alcohol is bad for keyboards mmkay), and it was pretty easy for me to find a keyboard I liked, that being a Keychron K8 Pro with the same Gateron G Yellow Pro 3.0s. The hardest part was fucking keycaps and I'm still not fully sold on the ones I have even though I love the overall look and feel of them.

Now I'm starting to entertain the idea of looking into some o-rings because while the sound I have now is super fucking nice I kinda wanna see just how far I can go down the silence rabbit hole. The keyboard already has foam AND silicone to dampen noise so I might as well lol

42 minutes ago, Brucifer said:

It's a bit worrisome how quickly it warms up - the exhaust is already hot just a minute after startup - but it's never given me problems, even when I try to torture it with extensive GTA V sessions.

That's really just a pre-Jasper thing. My house has 3 phats: the Jasper v2? Elite in our living room we've had since they came out, my Falcon Elite, and my bastard-child Opus Arcade. The Jasper has never really worked up a sweat doing much of anything, which is especially un-noticeable because it has the quietest model of fan they came with, and they are GENUINELY quiet fans. Sitting at the dashboard I don't recall them ever ramping up, and in game they might go up just a handful of steps. My Falcon and Opus on the other hand will ramp the fans up a couple ticks if you leave them sitting at the dashboard, and then of course get going even more in game.

Same thing with power bricks: The Opus' 16.5A is obnoxious as FUCK (ignoring that the fan is failing), my Falcon's 14.2A is audible but not horrible, and the Jasper's 12.1 isn't toooo bad either (amusingly though it still ends up being louder than the console itself).

We've also got a Corona which is too quiet for a 360.  It's nice, sure, but it needs that extra spice.

Good thermal paste will help for sure, but where yours is a Jasper they're one of the most bulletproof revisions that's been made to the 360 hardware so thankfully you don't need to worry a hell of a lot.

As for what the best GPU cooler is, the best one is the second revision one that has that random ass appendage sticking off it (so NOT the shitty Xenon/Kronos/Jasper V2 one). The better CPU cooler is the denser heatpiped one, but on a Jasper (and even Falcon) the plain jane aluminum one is just fine.

I've got a weird warranty console that will be an interesting test of time. It was one of the pre-HDMI models that someone RMAd in 2008 and they kinda just threw whatever the fuck they had at it. At its heart it should be a Falcon like any other Opus, and really any 360 produced/serviced in '08, but the heatsinks are Zephyr (so the heatpipe GPU and CPU coolers), and it still has the Zephyr/Opus power plug, even though if memory serves that should also be the 14.2A PSU like a Falcon.

I kind of feel like the Mac is your default option here. The HP you already have has audio issues that make content consumption unenjoyable and the display sounds like it's pretty mid, and the XPS also has a display you don't like and isn't super comfortable to use.

The good news I guess is that the Mac has a pretty damn good display, concerningly good sound (for what it is), battery life that could easily get you through a day, and even though it may not meet your OS preferences, I'm sure you'd get used to it. Two of my biggest gripes with macOS stem from window management, both of which can be fixed. Specifically I just hate the window management in general (why do I have to hold command when I want to maximize a window without going into that stupid ass fullscreen mode???), and the alt tab situation is also pretty abysmal. For the general window management I just got used to it and now it doesn't bother me almost at all, and for the alt tab situation there's a program called, wait for it, AltTab that fixes it perfectly.

Just judging based off how the light catches it I'm also going to say that's a crack. It probably isn't anything serious though, modern displays have gotten pretty damn good at handling cracks, especially when it comes to the digitizer (just look at all the beat to shit iPhones you see on a daily basis).

5 hours ago, RokinAmerica said:

This is a ten year old thread. I think he has made his decision by now.

You never know, maybe all this time later the OP is still on the fence.

I will never understand how in the hell people not only initially reply to a thread this old, but then more people continue to reply (ignoring people like us kinda being smartasses).

13 minutes ago, Dillpickle23422 said:

I'm not super familiar with these MacBooks but I do recall that somewhere around this year of mac's just kind had bad thermal design in the first place. I could be wrong though? I'm not a Mac guy at all.

2015 is typically regarded as the last "good" model of MBP. Running in the 80s seems a little high for that workload, especially where the fan was audible. If the fan wasn't audible then I'd probably call it normal.

There's a couple patches you need to install manually if you're using good ol SP1 builds, but after that you can just run Windows Update as per usual.

These are the updates you need to install, and you need to install them in this order.

KB3102810

Windows Update Agent 7.6

KB3020369

KB3172605

I did this just recently with a Pavilion A6137C and cooling is for sure the biggest hurdle. In my case, the case itself isn't all that wide so my GTX 970 100ME almost completely cuts it in half (which as you could imagine is not great for airflow), and then paired with the frankly awful design of the heatsink (the fins are parallel to the edge of the card instead of perpendicular so the middle half of the heatsink doesn't do a damn thing)... not a fun time. And unfortunately flipping the PSU fan to be an intake did absolutely nothing to help it, if anything it actually hurt a bit (it dropped about 3-5w across the board since I have it temp limited to 72C). And where the 970 has a dumbass heatsink design, the side panel fan didn't really help a whole hell of a lot either, though it did make the CPU a little happier.

I do plan to continue making it more silly though, and I think my next two steps will be getting a Thermalright SI-100 which is more for noise than anything (the stock cooler has no issues keeping up with the 6700K), and the major step is going to be upgrading the GPU where I'll also be getting a blower model instead. Probably something like a 5700XT since it would be neat to have an AMD GPU for the first time in YEARS.

17 hours ago, starsmine said:

PDF is the only way for documents to be what you see is what you get when you print. 
Type setting before PDF was one of the largest Pain in the asses in the computer world
Even RTF will look different in every software and with how you print it. 

God I cannot stress enough how much I hate people that bring .doc/.docx files for me to print. The formatting is almost always COMICALLY incorrect, and if I send them back home to convert it to a PDF lo and behold the formatting is absolutely perfect every single time.

It's also just nice being able to secure PDFs reasonably well. I just filled out a job application (entirely within Acrobat!) and exported my resume from Word into a PDF, and in both cases I made them conform to a standard which almost guarantees that they are not modifiable by anyone. Doesn't super matter for I'm doing sure, but it is still very nice to have that option.

2 minutes ago, Anderson welch said:

Oh sorry. Need to take off that heat sink in the photo and don’t know how

Usually they're either held in by satanic plastic clips or are screwed in from the bottom side of the board.

My experience with X58 is extremely limited (even though I have an X58 Sabertooth and a P6T Deluxe I just haven't been bothered to mess with yet), but here is what I've come up with so far.

Make sure your BIOS is up to date. Obviously earlier BIOSes can have some kinks that aren't worked out yet so we can't rule that out as an issue. Being an early DDR3 platform of course we can't rule that out.

This is from the EVGA forums and a help article so it might be slightly different for our ASUS boards, but the suggestion there was making sure that the Memory Low Gap setting is at AUTO instead of 3G or whatever else there is. Unfortunately I don't have a spare PSU to pull either of my boards out to take a look, but hopefully ASUS did things in a similar manner.

My only final suggestion is to just repeatedly fuck with it and see what happens. I know my X79 Sabertooth was being kind of a bitch with RAM and I just ended up repeatedly moving sticks around and eventually it decided to work.

16 minutes ago, Brian McKee said:

I don't see what incentive valve would have to do this. Mac gaming market is incredibly small to put the effort in, while Proton for Linux directly benefits their ecosystem with the Steamdeck.

I never said it makes sense for them to do so, I said it would be nice to see. No matter how you split it, modern Macs kinda fuck for gaming (ignoring how hilariously cost prohibitive it is for RAM upgrades), and I know a fair few people in my own personal life that would 100% go Mac-only if our favorite games at least worked on our Macs. Obviously a small sample size, but I'm sure it is a fairly common theme since they're getting reeeeeal good again.

I would love to see Valve come out with something Proton-esque so that more Steam games would work on it. I know it probably won't happen but I'm going to keep my hopes up.

Keychron K8 Pro, Gateron G Yellow Pro 3.0s, and a Glorious keycap set. Overall really love the keyboard and the sound/feel I've got going, but the south-facing LED thing kinda sucks when it comes to these keycaps that I otherwise really love. I have the backlight all the way up and there's so little light coming through that they may as well be solid caps (the dark shot is actually harder to see IRL). Unfortunately finding a nice set that doesn't have some gaudy ass gamer font is insanely difficult and this was the only option I seem to recall finding that ticked all of the boxes, minus having a south-LED friendly design.